How to tell when a diff (LSD) goes bad?
02-07-2008, 02:52 PM
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Re: How to tell when a diff (LSD) goes bad? (CTR_B)
possibly abnormal noises would be a start. try changing the fluid and adding lsd additive to it.
Modified by 1badteg at 1:33 AM 2/8/2008
Modified by 1badteg at 1:33 AM 2/8/2008
02-07-2008, 03:03 PM
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Re: How to tell when a diff (1badteg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1badteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">possibly abnormal noises would be a start. try changing the fluid and adding lsd additive to it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok? But what kind of noise? Im trying to rule out between my axel and my diff.
Thanks
Ok? But what kind of noise? Im trying to rule out between my axel and my diff.
Thanks
02-07-2008, 03:46 PM
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Re: How to tell when a diff (LSD) goes bad? (CTR_B)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CTR_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Ok? But what kind of noise? Im trying to rule out between my axel and my diff.
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
might be grinding noise or hard to throw shift in any gears or clicking sound inside the tranny that obvious not to be in there........
Ok? But what kind of noise? Im trying to rule out between my axel and my diff.
Thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
might be grinding noise or hard to throw shift in any gears or clicking sound inside the tranny that obvious not to be in there........
02-07-2008, 05:07 PM
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Re: How to tell when a diff (wangkata)
Ok now that you said " clicking noise" I will descibe my problem.
When I accelerate in 3d 4th and 5th at low rpms there is a loud poping noise (clicking) and when I turn corners left or right there is a poping (clicking) noise.
When I accelerate in 3d 4th and 5th at low rpms there is a loud poping noise (clicking) and when I turn corners left or right there is a poping (clicking) noise.
02-07-2008, 07:43 PM
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How old is the LSD? I know when my friend had less than 4,000 miles on his Kaaz LSD, it would click at low engine speeds upon cornering. It needed to be broken in.
02-07-2008, 07:49 PM
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Re: (.PLUMMM)
2-3yrs 30 40k mi... It some thing is clicking and poping on cornering and now on accel. I have a simular post going on this (should be at the top by now) and I think we came to the conclusion that it is the axels
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02-07-2008, 08:33 PM
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Re: How to tell when a diff (1badteg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1badteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">possibly abnormal noises would be a start. try changing the fluid and adding lsd additive to it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dangerous advice.
You do NOT add LSD additive to a Torsen/helical diff. LSD additive is for a clutch diff. LSD additive is an abrasive that is added to the fluid pre or post bottling...depending on the fluid you buy.
You can not use "LSD oil" in a torsen/helical application.
lol OP...you're really worried about it, huh?
If your torsen/helical LSD went bad, you'd freaking KNOW it went bad. It works via a worm gear. If the gear broke...it'd be noisy, grindey, and broken to the point where you probably couldn't drive it.
If the diff bearings or a pinion gear broke, it has nothing to do with the LSD function....but still, you'd freaking know. It would be like the apocalypse. (exageration).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CTR_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok now that you said " clicking noise" I will descibe my problem.
When I accelerate in 3d 4th and 5th at low rpms there is a loud poping noise (clicking) and when I turn corners left or right there is a poping (clicking) noise. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like an axle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .PLUMMM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How old is the LSD? I know when my friend had less than 4,000 miles on his Kaaz LSD, it would click at low engine speeds upon cornering. It needed to be broken in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
KAAZ = clutch LSD. Honda = torsen/helical LSD. Accurate info...but wrong application.
Dangerous advice.
You do NOT add LSD additive to a Torsen/helical diff. LSD additive is for a clutch diff. LSD additive is an abrasive that is added to the fluid pre or post bottling...depending on the fluid you buy.
You can not use "LSD oil" in a torsen/helical application.
lol OP...you're really worried about it, huh?
If your torsen/helical LSD went bad, you'd freaking KNOW it went bad. It works via a worm gear. If the gear broke...it'd be noisy, grindey, and broken to the point where you probably couldn't drive it.
If the diff bearings or a pinion gear broke, it has nothing to do with the LSD function....but still, you'd freaking know. It would be like the apocalypse. (exageration).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CTR_B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok now that you said " clicking noise" I will descibe my problem.
When I accelerate in 3d 4th and 5th at low rpms there is a loud poping noise (clicking) and when I turn corners left or right there is a poping (clicking) noise. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Sounds like an axle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .PLUMMM »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How old is the LSD? I know when my friend had less than 4,000 miles on his Kaaz LSD, it would click at low engine speeds upon cornering. It needed to be broken in.</TD></TR></TABLE>
KAAZ = clutch LSD. Honda = torsen/helical LSD. Accurate info...but wrong application.
02-07-2008, 10:51 PM
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Re: (highrev98civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highrev98civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">has anyone ever heard of a diff breaking under normal driving conditions. does anyone know other common reasons for s diff to break. </TD></TR></TABLE>
The diff in the B/K/H series seems to be pretty well made. Define "normal driving conditions". There have been recorded B series motors going up to 300k miles or so, IIRC. Maybe some of those were LSD transmissions. Check the ITR forum for high mileage cars. There really wouldn't be a reason for it to ever break under normal conditions. It's not like it wears out.
A launch on slicks with big power is a common diff breaker. Usually axles go first. I think the diff is the 2nd thing in line to go. The trans is last. I could be wrong on that order. Ask the drag racing forum.
The diff in the B/K/H series seems to be pretty well made. Define "normal driving conditions". There have been recorded B series motors going up to 300k miles or so, IIRC. Maybe some of those were LSD transmissions. Check the ITR forum for high mileage cars. There really wouldn't be a reason for it to ever break under normal conditions. It's not like it wears out.
A launch on slicks with big power is a common diff breaker. Usually axles go first. I think the diff is the 2nd thing in line to go. The trans is last. I could be wrong on that order. Ask the drag racing forum.
02-07-2008, 11:04 PM
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by normal driving i mean light footed to save gas and shifting around 3-3.5 rpm. no crazy turning or anything either. only reason i say that is i just put in a fully built ls swap and 1000 miles in the gear started to pop out of 5th gear. i was like wtf. when i got a chance to look under the car found out that the axle seal came out. again i was like wtf. so i order another and when i took out the axle i looked at the tranny and saw that there was metal every where and saw the diff was broken. i thought to myself how does that happen under normal driving long story short had to buy another ls tranny and swap it out.
02-07-2008, 11:08 PM
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Re: How to tell when a diff (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dangerous advice.
You do NOT add LSD additive to a Torsen/helical diff. LSD additive is for a clutch diff. LSD additive is an abrasive that is added to the fluid pre or post bottling...depending on the fluid you buy.
You can not use "LSD oil" in a torsen/helical application.
ol OP...you're really worried about it, huh?
If your torsen/helical LSD went bad, you'd freaking KNOW it went bad. It works via a worm gear. If the gear broke...it'd be noisy, grindey, and broken to the point where you probably couldn't drive it.
If the diff bearings or a pinion gear broke, it has nothing to do with the LSD function....but still, you'd freaking know. It would be like the apocalypse. (exageration).
Sounds like an axle.
KAAZ = clutch LSD. Honda = torsen/helical LSD. Accurate info...but wrong application. </TD></TR></TABLE>
B-serious,
Yes I am very worried about this. I was planning on doing a H2B swap in a few weeks and I was very Excited and pleased that my drive train was in good shape and an excelent start to this swap... Let alone the finial drive and lsd factor to the H22. When this started I was so worried becasue a NEW oem lsd runs around 900 not to metion the labor included in doing this. I can build a motor but dont know crap about the transmission. I was so worried the all my money would go into the trans instead of the swap. So yes I am very concerend about my lsd.
[<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The diff in the B/K/H series seems to be pretty well made. Define "normal driving conditions". There have been recorded B series motors going up to 300k miles or so, IIRC. Maybe some of those were LSD transmissions. Check the ITR forum for high mileage cars. There really wouldn't be a reason for it to ever break under normal conditions. It's not like it wears out.
A launch on slicks with big power is a common diff breaker. Usually axles go first. I think the diff is the 2nd thing in line to go. The trans is last. I could be wrong on that order. Ask the drag racing forum. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Where were you when I posted this lol...
On the other note, I kinda disagree with you steps in breaking. Not to argue but just throw my 2c. I broke the case of my trans long before an axel or "knock on wood" my differential. My case snapped launching at the track right where the Knee brace goes
new case and Thanks to Mike now a king motor sports later I was back at the track the same day.
Mike was a life saver
You do NOT add LSD additive to a Torsen/helical diff. LSD additive is for a clutch diff. LSD additive is an abrasive that is added to the fluid pre or post bottling...depending on the fluid you buy.
You can not use "LSD oil" in a torsen/helical application.
ol OP...you're really worried about it, huh?
If your torsen/helical LSD went bad, you'd freaking KNOW it went bad. It works via a worm gear. If the gear broke...it'd be noisy, grindey, and broken to the point where you probably couldn't drive it.
If the diff bearings or a pinion gear broke, it has nothing to do with the LSD function....but still, you'd freaking know. It would be like the apocalypse. (exageration).
Sounds like an axle.
KAAZ = clutch LSD. Honda = torsen/helical LSD. Accurate info...but wrong application. </TD></TR></TABLE>
B-serious,
Yes I am very worried about this. I was planning on doing a H2B swap in a few weeks and I was very Excited and pleased that my drive train was in good shape and an excelent start to this swap... Let alone the finial drive and lsd factor to the H22. When this started I was so worried becasue a NEW oem lsd runs around 900 not to metion the labor included in doing this. I can build a motor but dont know crap about the transmission. I was so worried the all my money would go into the trans instead of the swap. So yes I am very concerend about my lsd.
[<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The diff in the B/K/H series seems to be pretty well made. Define "normal driving conditions". There have been recorded B series motors going up to 300k miles or so, IIRC. Maybe some of those were LSD transmissions. Check the ITR forum for high mileage cars. There really wouldn't be a reason for it to ever break under normal conditions. It's not like it wears out.
A launch on slicks with big power is a common diff breaker. Usually axles go first. I think the diff is the 2nd thing in line to go. The trans is last. I could be wrong on that order. Ask the drag racing forum. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Where were you when I posted this lol...
On the other note, I kinda disagree with you steps in breaking. Not to argue but just throw my 2c. I broke the case of my trans long before an axel or "knock on wood" my differential. My case snapped launching at the track right where the Knee brace goes
new case and Thanks to Mike now a king motor sports later I was back at the track the same day. Mike was a life saver
02-07-2008, 11:10 PM
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Re: (highrev98civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by highrev98civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by normal driving i mean light footed to save gas and shifting around 3-3.5 rpm. no crazy turning or anything either. only reason i say that is i just put in a fully built ls swap and 1000 miles in the gear started to pop out of 5th gear. i was like wtf. when i got a chance to look under the car found out that the axle seal came out. again i was like wtf. so i order another and when i took out the axle i looked at the tranny and saw that there was metal every where and saw the diff was broken. i thought to myself how does that happen under normal driving long story short had to buy another ls tranny and swap it out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Possibilities:
Someone didn't put it together correctly
Someone abused the **** out of it
There was an issue that traced back to the production line
Honda diffs dont just break for no reason. I haven't really heard much about them wearing out with miles either.
Possibilities:
Someone didn't put it together correctly
Someone abused the **** out of it
There was an issue that traced back to the production line
Honda diffs dont just break for no reason. I haven't really heard much about them wearing out with miles either.
02-08-2008, 12:42 AM
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Re: How to tell when a diff (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Dangerous advice.
You do NOT add LSD additive to a Torsen/helical diff. LSD additive is for a clutch diff. LSD additive is an abrasive that is added to the fluid pre or post bottling...depending on the fluid you buy.
You can not use "LSD oil" in a torsen/helical application.
lol OP...you're really worried about it, huh?
If your torsen/helical LSD went bad, you'd freaking KNOW it went bad. It works via a worm gear. If the gear broke...it'd be noisy, grindey, and broken to the point where you probably couldn't drive it.
If the diff bearings or a pinion gear broke, it has nothing to do with the LSD function....but still, you'd freaking know. It would be like the apocalypse. (exageration).
Sounds like an axle.
KAAZ = clutch LSD. Honda = torsen/helical LSD. Accurate info...but wrong application.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
my bad, he didnt state what kind of lsd he had. in nissan's, toyota's and just about every other lsd equipped transmission ive ever owned has called for lsd additive. its actually crucial in rwd cars. thanks for the correction B Serious.
Dangerous advice.
You do NOT add LSD additive to a Torsen/helical diff. LSD additive is for a clutch diff. LSD additive is an abrasive that is added to the fluid pre or post bottling...depending on the fluid you buy.
You can not use "LSD oil" in a torsen/helical application.
lol OP...you're really worried about it, huh?
If your torsen/helical LSD went bad, you'd freaking KNOW it went bad. It works via a worm gear. If the gear broke...it'd be noisy, grindey, and broken to the point where you probably couldn't drive it.
If the diff bearings or a pinion gear broke, it has nothing to do with the LSD function....but still, you'd freaking know. It would be like the apocalypse. (exageration).
Sounds like an axle.
KAAZ = clutch LSD. Honda = torsen/helical LSD. Accurate info...but wrong application.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
my bad, he didnt state what kind of lsd he had. in nissan's, toyota's and just about every other lsd equipped transmission ive ever owned has called for lsd additive. its actually crucial in rwd cars. thanks for the correction B Serious.
02-08-2008, 05:01 PM
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Re: How to tell when a diff (1badteg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1badteg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
my bad, he didnt state what kind of lsd he had. in nissan's, toyota's and just about every other lsd equipped transmission ive ever owned has called for lsd additive. its actually crucial in rwd cars. thanks for the correction B Serious.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The nissan LSDs are almost always VLSDs. They require no special fluid or additive. Everything is sealed. The S13, Z31/32/33, Infinitis, etc. etc. They all use VLSDs. I owned one. If you installed a clutchpack LSD, the additive is usually nessecary.
I dont know if toyota uses clutch packs. Not TOO familiar with the big T.
my bad, he didnt state what kind of lsd he had. in nissan's, toyota's and just about every other lsd equipped transmission ive ever owned has called for lsd additive. its actually crucial in rwd cars. thanks for the correction B Serious.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The nissan LSDs are almost always VLSDs. They require no special fluid or additive. Everything is sealed. The S13, Z31/32/33, Infinitis, etc. etc. They all use VLSDs. I owned one. If you installed a clutchpack LSD, the additive is usually nessecary.
I dont know if toyota uses clutch packs. Not TOO familiar with the big T.
02-08-2008, 05:06 PM
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Re: How to tell when a diff (B serious)
Two $60.00 lifetime warranty O'Reiley's new axles are way cheaper to buy and install than anything internal in the tranny.
Worst case scenario you replace the axles and it still makes the noise - then you KNOW the tranny is fuxored.
Best case the issue was axle related and you fix it for $120.00 or so.
Worst case scenario you replace the axles and it still makes the noise - then you KNOW the tranny is fuxored.
Best case the issue was axle related and you fix it for $120.00 or so.
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