How to: Spraying Type-R grille
03-08-2004, 12:56 PM
#1
How to: Spraying Type-R grille
After purchasing a type-r grille off of Ebay USA for £13.16 I felt that I could 'risk' painting the part myself as it was so cheap, anyhow here is my first adventure into painting and the step by step results. 
- Plastic primer
- Spray paint (I used 1 can of Terasol branded paint)
- Wet n Dry 800, 1200 & 1500
- Laquer
- Cutting paste and lint free cloth
- Autoglym polish (or your prefered brand)
Primer & preperation:
Clean part with warm water. Soak some 800 wet n dry paper for 10 minutes until it curls up in the bowl of water. Keeping the part soaking and also the paper, sand whole part and remove and swirls in plastic and injection mould marks. Dry with kitchen towel.
Shake plastic primer for 1 minute, place in bowl of hot water, shake for a further minute and apply to part. Keep your strokes 150mm from the surface, I found the best method spraying was to be quite liberal and not to 'soft' with paint application. A few passes to cover faintly then burst strips across the part till its covered. Flash off with hairdryer on full throttle at about 10-20mm distance, move across the whole part in about 2 minutes. Place in a warm place such as on top of an AGA or in airing cupboard.
Leave to dry for 2 hours and then wet n dry lightly with 800 or 1200 paper, apply another coat liberally. Allow 2 hours to dry and then use a 1200 wet n dry to lightly sand any blemishes.
The applied plastic primer.
Paint application:
I did several test paints (plastic and metal surfaces) and I have established that the paint needs to be applied 'well' and not lightly as many people suggest. Warm the can as I did with the primer in hot water and shake for atleast 2 minutes.
I did the initial layer going in short bursts from one side of the part to the other, keep layering the paint on but do it quite quick - across your body, left to right and back again counting for each movement. Thats the best way I can describe the painting technique I used.
Once the first layer of paint has been applied, flash it all with a hairdryer and leave to dry in a warm place for 30 minutes. Apply a second layer of paint as above, again being quite generous with the paint so that the whole part looks wet once more. Allow atleast 2 hours to dry in a warm place.
Slight orange peel effect WILL occur, that can be cured later.
Once the second coat has dried to touch, NOT tacky, wet n dry sand with 1200 very lightly to remove and surface defects or orange peel, remember to keep the part very wet all the time your sanding. Once complete, your paint should appear misty or white, at this stage you have two choices 1) if the part looks smooth apply laquer or 2) apply another layer of paint and once dry, wet n dry 1200 till misty and smooth.
Laquer application:
Laquer is your friend but don't soak the part! Laquer is best applied in sunlight. Make sure you cover the part till it looks glossy and wet all over, several passes across the part should be suffice, try not to get any closer then 10-15mm as laquer may puddle. Leave the first layer of laquer to dry for 15 minutes and then apply another layer, leave for 15 minutes and apply a final layer. The part should look glossy.
Now you must leave the part for atleast 12 hours, I'd suggest 24 hours.
Cutting:
Apply your cutting paste directly to the part in nice round blobs, use a damp lint free cloth to rub the cutting paste into the part, once covered start to apply pressure in a single direction across the whole part, rub off with a clean cloth. Repeat again after the first pass. The part should now look slighly duller but smoother then the orange peel effect left by the laquer. If your consitant with your cutting you should have a smooth even finish across the part. Tip: cut in the direction the wind moves across the part or keep all buffing movements in the same direction, this will stop paint swirls which looks nasty in sunlight.
Once the cutting paste has been applied and buffed off with another cloth, its time to apply your polish, again use the single direction technique to remove chances of 'scratch' and swirl marks in your finish.
Done! You should have a perfect painted part indistinguishable from a factory paint job.
The sprayed grille being fitted:
The completed item:
What can I say, very very happy with the result, the colour match and finish is exactly the same as the surround factory painted parts! I'm chuffed to bits, if anyone had doubts about getting a good spray finish don't be perturbed I did it on my first attempt.
- Plastic primer
- Spray paint (I used 1 can of Terasol branded paint)
- Wet n Dry 800, 1200 & 1500
- Laquer
- Cutting paste and lint free cloth
- Autoglym polish (or your prefered brand)
Primer & preperation:
Clean part with warm water. Soak some 800 wet n dry paper for 10 minutes until it curls up in the bowl of water. Keeping the part soaking and also the paper, sand whole part and remove and swirls in plastic and injection mould marks. Dry with kitchen towel.
Shake plastic primer for 1 minute, place in bowl of hot water, shake for a further minute and apply to part. Keep your strokes 150mm from the surface, I found the best method spraying was to be quite liberal and not to 'soft' with paint application. A few passes to cover faintly then burst strips across the part till its covered. Flash off with hairdryer on full throttle at about 10-20mm distance, move across the whole part in about 2 minutes. Place in a warm place such as on top of an AGA or in airing cupboard.
Leave to dry for 2 hours and then wet n dry lightly with 800 or 1200 paper, apply another coat liberally. Allow 2 hours to dry and then use a 1200 wet n dry to lightly sand any blemishes.
The applied plastic primer.
Paint application:
I did several test paints (plastic and metal surfaces) and I have established that the paint needs to be applied 'well' and not lightly as many people suggest. Warm the can as I did with the primer in hot water and shake for atleast 2 minutes.
I did the initial layer going in short bursts from one side of the part to the other, keep layering the paint on but do it quite quick - across your body, left to right and back again counting for each movement. Thats the best way I can describe the painting technique I used.
Once the first layer of paint has been applied, flash it all with a hairdryer and leave to dry in a warm place for 30 minutes. Apply a second layer of paint as above, again being quite generous with the paint so that the whole part looks wet once more. Allow atleast 2 hours to dry in a warm place.Slight orange peel effect WILL occur, that can be cured later.
Once the second coat has dried to touch, NOT tacky, wet n dry sand with 1200 very lightly to remove and surface defects or orange peel, remember to keep the part very wet all the time your sanding. Once complete, your paint should appear misty or white, at this stage you have two choices 1) if the part looks smooth apply laquer or 2) apply another layer of paint and once dry, wet n dry 1200 till misty and smooth.
Laquer application:
Laquer is your friend but don't soak the part! Laquer is best applied in sunlight. Make sure you cover the part till it looks glossy and wet all over, several passes across the part should be suffice, try not to get any closer then 10-15mm as laquer may puddle. Leave the first layer of laquer to dry for 15 minutes and then apply another layer, leave for 15 minutes and apply a final layer. The part should look glossy.
Now you must leave the part for atleast 12 hours, I'd suggest 24 hours.
Cutting:
Apply your cutting paste directly to the part in nice round blobs, use a damp lint free cloth to rub the cutting paste into the part, once covered start to apply pressure in a single direction across the whole part, rub off with a clean cloth. Repeat again after the first pass. The part should now look slighly duller but smoother then the orange peel effect left by the laquer. If your consitant with your cutting you should have a smooth even finish across the part. Tip: cut in the direction the wind moves across the part or keep all buffing movements in the same direction, this will stop paint swirls which looks nasty in sunlight.
Once the cutting paste has been applied and buffed off with another cloth, its time to apply your polish, again use the single direction technique to remove chances of 'scratch' and swirl marks in your finish.
Done! You should have a perfect painted part indistinguishable from a factory paint job.
The sprayed grille being fitted:
The completed item:
What can I say, very very happy with the result, the colour match and finish is exactly the same as the surround factory painted parts! I'm chuffed to bits, if anyone had doubts about getting a good spray finish don't be perturbed I did it on my first attempt.
03-08-2004, 01:04 PM
#3
Re: How to: Spraying Type-R grille (Bizarre)
Its like T-Cut, do you have that in the states?
It literally bites into the laquer and smooths it over when rubbed hard, like the name implies, it cuts!
Modified by EdLeake at 10:24 PM 3/8/2004
It literally bites into the laquer and smooths it over when rubbed hard, like the name implies, it cuts!
Modified by EdLeake at 10:24 PM 3/8/2004
03-08-2004, 01:09 PM
#4
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Re: How to: Spraying Type-R grille (EdLeake)
Nice D.I.Y
oh yeah nice stove top.....
oh yeah nice stove top.....
Originally Posted by EdLeake
After purchasing a type-r grille off of Ebay USA for £13.16 I felt that I could 'risk' painting the part myself as it was so cheap, anyhow here is my first adventure into painting and the step by step results.
- Plastic primer
- Spray paint (I used 1 can of Terasol branded paint)
- Wet n Dry 800, 1200 & 1500
- Laquer
- Cutting paste and lint free cloth
- Autoglym polish (or your prefered brand)
Primer & preperation:
Clean part with warm water. Soak some 800 wet n dry paper for 10 minutes until it curls up in the bowl of water. Keeping the part soaking and also the paper, sand whole part and remove and swirls in plastic and injection mould marks. Dry with kitchen towel.
Shake plastic primer for 1 minute, place in bowl of hot water, shake for a further minute and apply to part. Keep your strokes 150mm from the surface, I found the best method spraying was to be quite liberal and not to 'soft' with paint application. A few passes to cover faintly then burst strips across the part till its covered. Flash off with hairdryer on full throttle at about 10-20mm distance, move across the whole part in about 2 minutes. Place in a warm place such as on top of an AGA or in airing cupboard.
Leave to dry for 2 hours and then wet n dry lightly with 800 or 1200 paper, apply another coat liberally. Allow 2 hours to dry and then use a 1200 wet n dry to lightly sand any blemishes.
The applied plastic primer.
Paint application:
I did several test paints (plastic and metal surfaces) and I have established that the paint needs to be applied 'well' and not lightly as many people suggest. Warm the can as I did with the primer in hot water and shake for atleast 2 minutes.
I did the initial layer going in short bursts from one side of the part to the other, keep layering the paint on but do it quite quick - across your body, left to right and back again counting for each movement. Thats the best way I can describe the painting technique I used. Once the first layer of paint has been applied, flash it all with a hairdryer and leave to dry in a warm place for 30 minutes. Apply a second layer of paint as above, again being quite generous with the paint so that the whole part looks wet once more. Allow atleast 2 hours to dry in a warm place.
Slight orange peel effect WILL occur, that can be cured later.
Once the second coat has dried to touch, NOT tacky, wet n dry sand with 1200 very lightly to remove and surface defects or orange peel, remember to keep the part very wet all the time your sanding. Once complete, your paint should appear misty or white, at this stage you have two choices 1) if the part looks smooth apply laquer or 2) apply another layer of paint and once dry, wet n dry 1200 till misty and smooth.
Laquer application:
Laquer is your friend but don't soak the part! Laquer is best applied in sunlight. Make sure you cover the part till it looks glossy and wet all over, several passes across the part should be suffice, try not to get any closer then 10-15mm as laquer may puddle. Leave the first layer of laquer to dry for 15 minutes and then apply another layer, leave for 15 minutes and apply a final layer. The part should look glossy.
Now you must leave the part for atleast 12 hours, I'd suggest 24 hours.
Cutting:
Apply your cutting paste directly to the part in nice round blobs, use a damp lint free cloth to rub the cutting paste into the part, once covered start to apply pressure in a single direction across the whole part, rub off with a clean cloth. Repeat again after the first pass. The part should now look slighly duller but smoother then the orange peel effect left by the laquer. If your consitant with your cutting you should have a smooth even finish across the part. Tip: cut in the direction the wind moves across the part or keep all buffing movements in the same direction, this will stop paint swirls which looks nasty in sunlight.
Once the cutting paste has been applied and buffed off with another cloth, its time to apply your polish, again use the single direction technique to remove chances of 'scratch' and swirl marks in your finish.
Done! You should have a perfect painted part indistinguishable from a factory paint job.
The sprayed grille being fitted:
The completed item:
What can I say, very very happy with the result, the colour match and finish is exactly the same as the surround factory painted parts! I'm chuffed to bits, if anyone had doubts about getting a good spray finish don't be perturbed I did it on my first attempt.
- Plastic primer
- Spray paint (I used 1 can of Terasol branded paint)
- Wet n Dry 800, 1200 & 1500
- Laquer
- Cutting paste and lint free cloth
- Autoglym polish (or your prefered brand)
Primer & preperation:
Clean part with warm water. Soak some 800 wet n dry paper for 10 minutes until it curls up in the bowl of water. Keeping the part soaking and also the paper, sand whole part and remove and swirls in plastic and injection mould marks. Dry with kitchen towel.
Shake plastic primer for 1 minute, place in bowl of hot water, shake for a further minute and apply to part. Keep your strokes 150mm from the surface, I found the best method spraying was to be quite liberal and not to 'soft' with paint application. A few passes to cover faintly then burst strips across the part till its covered. Flash off with hairdryer on full throttle at about 10-20mm distance, move across the whole part in about 2 minutes. Place in a warm place such as on top of an AGA or in airing cupboard.
Leave to dry for 2 hours and then wet n dry lightly with 800 or 1200 paper, apply another coat liberally. Allow 2 hours to dry and then use a 1200 wet n dry to lightly sand any blemishes.
The applied plastic primer.
Paint application:
I did several test paints (plastic and metal surfaces) and I have established that the paint needs to be applied 'well' and not lightly as many people suggest. Warm the can as I did with the primer in hot water and shake for atleast 2 minutes.
I did the initial layer going in short bursts from one side of the part to the other, keep layering the paint on but do it quite quick - across your body, left to right and back again counting for each movement. Thats the best way I can describe the painting technique I used.
Once the first layer of paint has been applied, flash it all with a hairdryer and leave to dry in a warm place for 30 minutes. Apply a second layer of paint as above, again being quite generous with the paint so that the whole part looks wet once more. Allow atleast 2 hours to dry in a warm place.Slight orange peel effect WILL occur, that can be cured later.
Once the second coat has dried to touch, NOT tacky, wet n dry sand with 1200 very lightly to remove and surface defects or orange peel, remember to keep the part very wet all the time your sanding. Once complete, your paint should appear misty or white, at this stage you have two choices 1) if the part looks smooth apply laquer or 2) apply another layer of paint and once dry, wet n dry 1200 till misty and smooth.
Laquer application:
Laquer is your friend but don't soak the part! Laquer is best applied in sunlight. Make sure you cover the part till it looks glossy and wet all over, several passes across the part should be suffice, try not to get any closer then 10-15mm as laquer may puddle. Leave the first layer of laquer to dry for 15 minutes and then apply another layer, leave for 15 minutes and apply a final layer. The part should look glossy.
Now you must leave the part for atleast 12 hours, I'd suggest 24 hours.
Cutting:
Apply your cutting paste directly to the part in nice round blobs, use a damp lint free cloth to rub the cutting paste into the part, once covered start to apply pressure in a single direction across the whole part, rub off with a clean cloth. Repeat again after the first pass. The part should now look slighly duller but smoother then the orange peel effect left by the laquer. If your consitant with your cutting you should have a smooth even finish across the part. Tip: cut in the direction the wind moves across the part or keep all buffing movements in the same direction, this will stop paint swirls which looks nasty in sunlight.
Once the cutting paste has been applied and buffed off with another cloth, its time to apply your polish, again use the single direction technique to remove chances of 'scratch' and swirl marks in your finish.
Done! You should have a perfect painted part indistinguishable from a factory paint job.
The sprayed grille being fitted:
The completed item:
What can I say, very very happy with the result, the colour match and finish is exactly the same as the surround factory painted parts! I'm chuffed to bits, if anyone had doubts about getting a good spray finish don't be perturbed I did it on my first attempt.
03-08-2004, 01:11 PM
#5
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Re: How to: Spraying Type-R grille (EdLeake)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EdLeake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its like T-Cut, do you have that in the states?
It literally bites into the laquer and smooths it over when rubbed hard, like the name implies, it cuts!</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have never heard of that. I don't know if we have that in Canada, I'll be looking for it the next time I go to the local parts store.
Modified by Bizarre at 10:50 AM 3/9/2004
It literally bites into the laquer and smooths it over when rubbed hard, like the name implies, it cuts!
</TD></TR></TABLE>I have never heard of that. I don't know if we have that in Canada, I'll be looking for it the next time I go to the local parts store.
Modified by Bizarre at 10:50 AM 3/9/2004
03-08-2004, 01:19 PM
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Re: How to: Spraying Type-R grille (Bizarre)
great DIY!! it looks awesome, matches perfectly. i will be doing this as soon as my grill comes from jdmshit. thanks a lot!
just wondering why you didn't get a mesh grill...isn't it easy now to pop your hood right through the hole?
just wondering why you didn't get a mesh grill...isn't it easy now to pop your hood right through the hole?
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03-08-2004, 02:25 PM
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Re: (lbHypergeniX)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lbHypergeniX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks really good</TD></TR></TABLE>
i second that bit. . . beautiful work.
i second that bit. . . beautiful work.
03-09-2004, 12:16 AM
#15
Re: How to: Spraying Type-R grille (SiRcyrusEH2)
Meguirs is just as good as Autoglym. 
Cutting paste, you yanks may call it something else but I can't understand why... its just a slightly abrasive compound for taking the laquer spray finish down to a smooth glass like finish.
Cutting paste, you yanks may call it something else but I can't understand why... its just a slightly abrasive compound for taking the laquer spray finish down to a smooth glass like finish.
03-12-2004, 07:52 PM
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Re: How to: Spraying Type-R grille (EdLeake)
i know we call it a differnt name(btw being from VA i dont consider myself a yank, but thats another story) but does anyone know the name of the cutting paste or a good paint polish im dying for some
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03-07-2004 08:23 AM
