Richard Casto

This is for a 1998 Civic LX with manual transmission.

I have two CV boots that are either torn (very recently) or a leaking. I am replacing all four boots. I know the conventional wisdom is to just swap out entire rebuilt axels and joints. But for various reasons (mostly just want to get the experience of doing it) I have decided to just replace the boots with Honda boot kits. So please don’t tell me to just swap out the entire axels.

I think I can leave the outer CV in place (inner is already apart) and then just slide the outer boot on from the other side. But I don’t want to remove the harmonic balancer as I currently don’t have a new clamp for it. So that would mean pulling the outer CV off of the shaft. Even if I didn't have to deal with the balancer, I would like to get it off to just make sure I clean it up really well before I pack it with grease.

I have the crappy Haynes manual and its instructions are not the best. It sounds like they say to pound it off with a slide hammer. By looking at the part diagram at San Leandro’s parts page, it looks like the CV is held on via a clip just like the clip on the spline that goes into the transmission.

Any tips or tricks on doing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I just don't want to start pounding away with a BFH if that is not the right way to go about it.

schardbody

you are correct, if the axle is off the car its a pain w/out a vise, but the outer cv joint can be knocked off quite easily. if possibly have someone hold the axle while you hold the outer joint in one hand and the hammer in the other, now just give a sharp smack to the outer most part of the backside of the joint, if it doesnt come off in one wack (it should if you hit it hard enough) just hit it harder. once you get it off, remove old boot, slide new one on, and before tapping joint back on, take a little grease out the joint and wipe it around the circlip that held the joint on, center the clip as best as possible (the grease will keep it there) set the joint back on the axle noting that the splines lined up, and smack it (make sure the axle nut is threaded onto it to make sure it doesnt mushroom the end. once the outer is back on clamp the boot to the joint, then the boot to the axle (this allows the air to escape from the boot). as for the inner joint have fun, i have sucessfully re-assembled only 2 out of probably 50. its possible but not worth the fight. hope this helps.

jbs

iTrader: (1)

Why don't you just reuse the factory clips? I bought CV boots from Orielly's for my rebuild. They're the only ones that carry Beck & Arney Brand boots (Thick rubber material like OEM). Other autoparts store carry Precission which is cheaper (thin rubber). I know because I've torn a pair before switching to Beck & Arney BTW both are whole boots not the cheapy ones that just wrap around. Anyway, both brands have aftermarket clips and I think you'll need a special tool to clamp/crimp it. I decided to reuse the factory clips and it works perfectly. All you have to do in taking them out is use a razor blade to open the "butterfly" locks open.

Reusing the factory clips will allow you not to open the outer CV joint. You can work in replacing both boots by taking appart the axle from the tranny side.

Richard Casto

schardbody, Thanks for the info! Thats exactly the level of detail I was looking for. I haven't put the inside CV back together yet. It looked simple. Maybe once I start I will see why you say it is a bear. I will post back here when I am done to let you know how fun it was.

jbs, The factory boot kits have new clamps, so there is no need to reuse the old clamps. Kit also comes with axel nut, clip rings and CV grease. Only thing I didn't order was a clip for the harmonic balancer. But if I pull the outside CV off like I plan, I will not need to remove the harmonic balancer.

schardbody

the problem w/ re-assembling the inner tripod is the 3 pieces inside, they have to be perfectly straight up and down, and left and right and in and out, so thats tough, then once you try to set the joint back down on them they try to move, so holding them setting the cup joint down on them and smacking it to seat it is just soooo much fun. the grease makes it so much better. the disassembly of the inner joint is easy, i think you said you had it done, but if not, just pull the inner joint cup off, set the fulcroms to the side, take of c clip and slide the bearing assembly off, replace boot and TRY to re-assemble. any problems just PM me.

Richard Casto

Well, I ended up working on the passenger side first last night as I didn't want to pound off the outside joint while the kids were sleeping (drivers side that I needed to remove the outside joint as I didn't want to remove the balancer). So while working on the inside joint, I discovered that I had bought the wrong boot kit for the inside. Apparently there must be more than one style of inner joint. The boot I had was not circular on the inside (like I needed), but more of a hex design.

So... With me needing the car running on Monday AND the fact that I would not have been able to get the correct inner boots in time, I just bought remanufactured axels and it all went together fine. Interestingly enough I had zero problem putting the inner CV joint back together and didn't have the difficulty mentioned by schardbody. Overall, I had wanted to get the experience of redoing the entire CV joint (which I did), but I just didn't end up using them as they became my cores when I bought the replacement axels.

Anyhow, thanks again for the help.

Evs-One

before you go banging at the outer joint back on...the circlip mentioned above will not allow you to slide the joint down unless you pinch it in the groove with pressure from the joint. You'll see when you're there...slide the joint onto the spines until it meets the circlip, then take a small screwdriver and push the clip into place, otherwise it can get pinched and need replacing

schardbody

AHHH, you quiter.