SOLtrain "tiiiteboyee"

iTrader: (1)

I've been trying to search up ways to "refine" our cars to an extent but with no luck..

Right now I have a B-series swapped del sol with energy suspension inserts..needless to say,the stffness causes the car the cabin/dash to vibrate. On the other hand if I run the mounts without them,the motor rocks back and forth a LOT and thats feels even worse?

so is there any remedy to things like these? a trick to the inserts? fresh oem mounts? Im not expecting it to feel like a lexus or even a brand new honda for that matter,more of like a stock b-series swapped car like an integra/00 civic si.

Also,for example,my friends gsr teg,when he goes through gears it feels extremely smooth,almost to the point where you dont even feel the gear change..is this due to the shifter bushing or just clutch itself? I have a competition stage 2 but even when I had a stock clutch it didnt feel quiet like that,so thats another thing..

anyways,sorry about this being kinda long,I just wanted to be specific as possible,appreciate the help..

AlwayzSpoolin

Well my experiance with aftermarket mounts that use polyurethan or other harned materials for their mounts, its gonna be stiff ... I had Prothane mounts in my last 2 cars and both being DSM's and Prothanes were deff. stiff as hell. made the car feel like a race car. But after a month or 2 of break in , it wasnt bad anymore. I have ES bushings in my hatch now and yea i feel the vibrations more, but thats what you get when you use poly , its a stiffer material. I guess you could try using stock mounts. Also their is this stuff called "Window Weld" can be had at Home Depot or Lowes. Its a poly type of material, but not as stiff as ES, Prothane, or other aftermarket mounts. I guess you could find a used set of OEM mounts and try that before shelling out big bucks for a set of OEM Mounts. I also have ES shifter bushings , and my tranny feels fine , shifts lie butter ! Its more crisp now with ES bushings.

For the clutch , do you NEED a Stage 2 ? I have an Exedy Stage 1 , and its a little more stiff than my stock one was. But nothing close to my old ACT Extreme clutches that I had in my DSM's ....

Just remember , to gain performance you usually sacrifice comfort/luxury ... I would try that window weld stuff, I know some DSM guys that use it in their 300hp AWD DSM's with no problems. I guess you could try a stage 1 clutch with out a heavy duty pressure plate. Hope that helps ya out some..

darkclark

fresh oem mounts, some dynamat inside the dash, a oem clutch and as close to the factory exhaust as you can get considering the swap would get you close to the oem civic but that is alot of money and some loss of preformance you might be why would you even moddify your car if you want it to ride like oem?

BryanM.

iTrader: (1)

I like the quietness of the oem mounts too, but when shifting a high rpm the engine torques BAD like you said. Filling fresh OEM mounts with urathane would probably be good, but what I did is I installed one HASport mount (rear) and it doesn't vibrate nearly as bad as having all three. HASport will sell individual mounts BTW.

B serious

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mcvtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like the quietness of the oem mounts too, but when shifting a high rpm the engine torques BAD like you said. Filling fresh OEM mounts with urathane would probably be good, but what I did is I installed one HASport mount (rear) and it doesn't vibrate nearly as bad as having all three. HASport will sell individual mounts BTW.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, if you fill OEM mounts with polyurethane, you're back where you started: A car that doubles as a *****.

OP: You could get fresh OEM mounts, I guess. Are any of yours cracked or something? My GSR with 158k or my EM1 with 103k didn't have any of the problems you described with the motor "torquing too much". Maybe since you had the polyurethane mounts, it's all in your head.

The stage 2 clutch was a little unnesessary. stage 1 or a stock would have been fine.

SOLtrain "tiiiteboyee"

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well, if you fill OEM mounts with polyurethane, you're back where you started: A car that doubles as a *****.

OP: You could get fresh OEM mounts, I guess. Are any of yours cracked or something? My GSR with 158k or my EM1 with 103k didn't have any of the problems you described with the motor "torquing too much". Maybe since you had the polyurethane mounts, it's all in your head.

The stage 2 clutch was a little unnesessary. stage 1 or a stock would have been fine. </TD></TR></TABLE>

nah the mounts are not cracked,but it definetly is a huge diffirence without the inserts..I was just trying to find a medium between the two,vibration and stiffness

and the stage2 clutch is necessary,I have a built head

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOLtrain "tiiiteboyee" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nah the mounts are not cracked,but it definetly is a huge diffirence without the inserts..I was just trying to find a medium between the two,vibration and stiffness

and the stage2 clutch is necessary,I have a built head </TD></TR></TABLE>

How much power are you putting down/how much power is the clutch rated for?

Some clutch manufacturers only have like 3 stages...so stage 2 is pretty high up there. Is it a race clutch? Again, with NA, even with a built head and moderate power, you could have gone with an exedy stage 1. Silky smooth. Over clutching your car is only fine if you buy a really expensive good name brand clutch.

Otherwise, they use the trick of just increasing the **** out of the spring pressure while still using some organic disk.

However, organic disks are OK for NA. It's just that if you buy a high stage clutch, i'd rather have one with "stickier" material or something. However, that would nessicitate the car to actually have enough power to make the clutch hot enough to grab. Ricers would complain that their D series with an intake was making the clutch slip.

I'm going off on a tangent. I'm not calling you a ricer. Not sure what the specs are on your clutch...or the reputation of the manufacturer.

SOLtrain "tiiiteboyee"

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How much power are you putting down/how much power is the clutch rated for?

Some clutch manufacturers only have like 3 stages...so stage 2 is pretty high up there. Is it a race clutch? Again, with NA, even with a built head and moderate power, you could have gone with an exedy stage 1. Silky smooth. Over clutching your car is only fine if you buy a really expensive good name brand clutch.

Otherwise, they use the trick of just increasing the **** out of the spring pressure while still using some organic disk.

However, organic disks are OK for NA. It's just that if you buy a high stage clutch, i'd rather have one with "stickier" material or something. However, that would nessicitate the car to actually have enough power to make the clutch hot enough to grab. Ricers would complain that their D series with an intake was making the clutch slip.

I'm going off on a tangent. I'm not calling you a ricer. Not sure what the specs are on your clutch...or the reputation of the manufacturer. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I havent put it on a dyno,but its on buddy club spec3 cams and its about to get a street tune with a hondata s300..the clutch was only rated for 250whp..so I got it in case I build the block and everything to break 200whp later on..

its a competition stage 2 and it really doesnt feel too bad at all..and again,that wasnt my complaint..I was just trying to reduce vibration from the mounts/smooth gears

B serious

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOLtrain "tiiiteboyee" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I havent put it on a dyno,but its on buddy club spec3 cams and its about to get a street tune with a hondata s300..the clutch was only rated for 250whp..so I got it in case I build the block and everything to break 200whp later on..

its a competition stage 2 and it really doesnt feel too bad at all..and again,that wasnt my complaint..I was just trying to reduce vibration from the mounts/smooth gears </TD></TR></TABLE>

New stock mounts. The GSR aluminum mount seems more solid than the steel mount. Not sure if the GS/LS/RS had the aluminum driver's side upper mount. If you want one, I got one. PM me.

uenolove

...

Danronian

I had the inserts in my Integra's mounts, and DAMN, they do make the car vibrate too much for a smooth daily driver.

In my 95 VX, I filled only the stock torque mounts, and NO vibration but it is lacking the clunk due to unfilled mounts when shifting. It's a lot better for a daily driver in my opinion. I won't go to inserts or solid mounts again unless it's not a daily.