How To: Quaife Steering into EG
#28
Re: How To: Quaife Steering into EG (litterbox)
Good Write Up
I swapped a manual rack into my 94 ex civic, after alot of reading up on on the power steering mod. that i didn't want to do. knowing that the dx rack had a slower gear ratio to it, about 4 months later i really did realize that i was missing out, looking for a solution (which i just found in this thread) to the dx gear ratio.
thanks again
I swapped a manual rack into my 94 ex civic, after alot of reading up on on the power steering mod. that i didn't want to do. knowing that the dx rack had a slower gear ratio to it, about 4 months later i really did realize that i was missing out, looking for a solution (which i just found in this thread) to the dx gear ratio.
thanks again
#34
Solbros Owns Me
Re: How To: Quaife Steering into EG (litterbox)
Play in the steering can be either because of bad inner/outer tie rods, column U joint, or imporper tensioning of the gear box- which can be adjusted. It's the 14mm nut under the gear box. You need the special tool from Honda to loosen the locknut first.
#35
I am a (Trial User) Army
Thread Starter
Re: How To: Quaife Steering into EG (Evs-One)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Evs-One »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Play in the steering can be either because of bad inner/outer tie rods, column U joint, or imporper tensioning of the gear box- which can be adjusted. It's the 14mm nut under the gear box. You need the special tool from Honda to loosen the locknut first. </TD></TR></TABLE>Have you adjusted the tensioning of the gear box? Has it helped? I know that spec is 1' of play in the steering wheel, which mine has. Is there any benefit to tension it up to where there is no play in the wheel? Would that in itself improve response?
#38
Honda-Tech Member
Re: How To: Quaife Steering into EG (dawrenn)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dawrenn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Good Writeup. I wish I could do that to my car but I am Jobless and broke as ****.</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHA I just got another job making a measly $10.50/hr and I work like 10-11 hr days, I shouldn't og quit my old job... but then again, this job doesn't have anywhere near as much drama as the last one, and now that I am starting to make some money again, I can buy this and the LSD that I need... lol
My steering is horrible... while driving I have about 3" of play in the wheel on either side... so this is a def. upgrade I need to do Awesome write up!
HAHA I just got another job making a measly $10.50/hr and I work like 10-11 hr days, I shouldn't og quit my old job... but then again, this job doesn't have anywhere near as much drama as the last one, and now that I am starting to make some money again, I can buy this and the LSD that I need... lol
My steering is horrible... while driving I have about 3" of play in the wheel on either side... so this is a def. upgrade I need to do Awesome write up!
#39
#1 Super Guy
iTrader: (2)
Re: How To: Quaife Steering into EG (EGRhatch)
As far as steering wheel play goes, make sure it isn't the U joints in your steering column (two total by your pedals). If those thing wear out, it can have the same effect. The lower one is super easy to replace, but the upper one is part of the entire steering column.
I've also heard that loosening the lowest U joint bolt (or is it second lowest), and pulling the steering column shaft downward as hard as you can while re-toquing the bolt can remove some play from a slopy rack/column install...
Definently check those things out before you drop $$'s to fix a problem you might not have...
I've also heard that loosening the lowest U joint bolt (or is it second lowest), and pulling the steering column shaft downward as hard as you can while re-toquing the bolt can remove some play from a slopy rack/column install...
Definently check those things out before you drop $$'s to fix a problem you might not have...
#43
I am a (Trial User) Army
Thread Starter
Re: How To: Quaife Steering into EG (mp7235)
Review:
Ok, so yesterday I finally got my car running. It had been out of commission for 7 weeks. First off I must say that the improvement in steering was kind of sidelined by the drastic improvemnt in power (D15b7 to k24), but still, I immediately noticed the tighter steering.
Driving the car at low speeds is completely bearable. So far, I have not noticed a difference in effort exerted driving at lower speeds, although I haven't parallel parked yet.
There is still some play in the steering wheel. BUT, it doesn't feel as loose as stock. It feels on track, like it's supposed to be there. What I mean by 'play' is a space 0.5'' left from center to 0.5'' right from center where the car will not respond to a movement of the steering wheel from the driver. Make sense?
Driving at higher speeds is a world of diference. The steering wheel is soo much more stable and precise. The car responds to the slightest of movement of the steering wheel, out of 'play'. I think that's why they engineered it so there is some play. Let me explain. The play seems consistent at lower or higher speeds. At higher speeds, the play acts as a cushioner. What I mean is that since the car responds to the slightest movement of the steering wheel, the play is acting as a forgiving brace. There is like 0.5'' of movement, where the car will not move, but once you get past that, it's on, the car moves. Know what I mean? That play is like your buffer zone. Lets say you're on the highway doing 70mph going straight. Steering wheel is straight and not moving, therefore you are 'in play'. If this was an OEM rack/pinion, 'in play' would mean that the steering wheel would feel loose. Not with this rack. 'In play' feels tight and stable. Once you turn the steering wheel past 0.5'', the car turns tightly. It doesn't take alot of turning the steering wheel, to turn this car.
The feel is great. 'In play', the wheels feels way tighter than an OEM non PS rack. Out of play, during actual turning, the steering response tightens up way more and it's an incredible precise feel. That change in tightness is ******* awesome.
Another thing. this rack turns your car into more of a race car feel. I found myself always driving with two hands, it just felt more comfortable. With a more responsive rack, you want more precise input from the driver, thus 2 hands on the wheel. Also, you can forget about turning the car with 1 hand at low speeds, 2 hands is a must for that.
Overall, I'm extremely happy with this setup. It's bearable on the street at low speeds and it handles like a dream at higher speeds. I give it a 10/10.
-box
Ok, so yesterday I finally got my car running. It had been out of commission for 7 weeks. First off I must say that the improvement in steering was kind of sidelined by the drastic improvemnt in power (D15b7 to k24), but still, I immediately noticed the tighter steering.
Driving the car at low speeds is completely bearable. So far, I have not noticed a difference in effort exerted driving at lower speeds, although I haven't parallel parked yet.
There is still some play in the steering wheel. BUT, it doesn't feel as loose as stock. It feels on track, like it's supposed to be there. What I mean by 'play' is a space 0.5'' left from center to 0.5'' right from center where the car will not respond to a movement of the steering wheel from the driver. Make sense?
Driving at higher speeds is a world of diference. The steering wheel is soo much more stable and precise. The car responds to the slightest of movement of the steering wheel, out of 'play'. I think that's why they engineered it so there is some play. Let me explain. The play seems consistent at lower or higher speeds. At higher speeds, the play acts as a cushioner. What I mean is that since the car responds to the slightest movement of the steering wheel, the play is acting as a forgiving brace. There is like 0.5'' of movement, where the car will not move, but once you get past that, it's on, the car moves. Know what I mean? That play is like your buffer zone. Lets say you're on the highway doing 70mph going straight. Steering wheel is straight and not moving, therefore you are 'in play'. If this was an OEM rack/pinion, 'in play' would mean that the steering wheel would feel loose. Not with this rack. 'In play' feels tight and stable. Once you turn the steering wheel past 0.5'', the car turns tightly. It doesn't take alot of turning the steering wheel, to turn this car.
The feel is great. 'In play', the wheels feels way tighter than an OEM non PS rack. Out of play, during actual turning, the steering response tightens up way more and it's an incredible precise feel. That change in tightness is ******* awesome.
Another thing. this rack turns your car into more of a race car feel. I found myself always driving with two hands, it just felt more comfortable. With a more responsive rack, you want more precise input from the driver, thus 2 hands on the wheel. Also, you can forget about turning the car with 1 hand at low speeds, 2 hands is a must for that.
Overall, I'm extremely happy with this setup. It's bearable on the street at low speeds and it handles like a dream at higher speeds. I give it a 10/10.
-box
#46
Re: How To: Quaife Steering into EG (litterbox)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does what I'm trying to say make sense?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes it does
Yes it does
#50
I am a (Trial User) Army
Thread Starter
Re: (accordselux)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordselux »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">YOU BASTARD, YOU MAKE ME SPEND MORE MONEY!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>lmao. This time it's worth it.