I really wish I'd done a step by step for installing my Progress CS-II's. Maybe I can at a later date, just hard to without pictures. I could give pictures for references on the already assembled car.
Okay, for the swaybar install. Took my longer than I expected but here we go.
Chuck your front tires and put your car in gear. Loosen up your lugnuts and jack up your car's rear end and put it on Jack stands.
Then take the wheels off:
get out all your stuff. You'll need what's in the picture, + a set of metric and SAE sockets. I only had metric so I'm not telling you which sockets I used due to a lot of trial and error. The bottom shock/lca bolt you need to flip around per the progress instructions is a 14mm however. In my case, it's a 14mm and a 17mm.
With your car jacked up you can now install the progress specific brackets. Be warned. Pay attention to the instructions provided. If you do not have the higher mounting hole for your progress bracket you need to drill the hole out with a 1/2" bit and tack weld some support behind it. Fortunately in my case I didn't need one being that I drive a 6th generation civic.
Next I installed the brackets and bushings onto the swaybar. Be sure to lube them very good. Progress provides loads of lube so use it liberally.
Next I installed the "L-Bracket" Provided by progress. This mounts on the front side of the lower shock bolt once you're flipped it around so that the nut is facing the rear of the car. Be sure the larger hole is facing down, this is where the endlink runs through.
Mount up the swaybar. Using the brackets on the swaybar, match them to the subframe brackets you've already installed and use the shorted bolts and be sure to use plenty of washers when installing these onto your subframe.
Okay, now it's time to assemble and install the end-links. Follow the instructions it's very simple. I wasn't sure but I wagered that the lip on the bushing fits inside the swaybar and washers on the endlink, so I put the smooth side of the bushing on the cup washers.
Here are several pictures of them assembled. After doing it I've found it's much easier to install the end-links on my car once you have the swaybar-endlink mounting holes lined up and already on the car. Maneuvering the endlinks around your subframe is a pain in the ***.
And on the car:
Tighten down all of the mounting brackets for the swaybar. DO NOT TIGHTEN DOWN THE LOWER SHOCK BOLT.
Or any bolt that goes through a bushing for that matter.
Step 8) DO
tighten the endlinks. Michelle at Progress told me to tighten them while the car was in the air and just such that the sleeve in the middle quits spinning. You don't want the bushings compressed already when you lower the car, but you do want it snug.
Put your wheels back on and lower the car. Put your car in neutral and roll it around so the suspension settles. Now tighten the lower shock bolts. it's a serious pain in the *** to maneuver a wrench on the front facing side of the shock. Trust me, it will fit, just go at it from the top and maneuver your wrench around various parts. I believe it went somewhere between the swaybar and the compensator arm to get the head of my wrench onto the bolt. I then tightened the lower shock bolt nut from the rear. Plenty of stuff on the front side to hole your wrench in place.
Go for a ride and be amazed at how you just made the best suspension modification to your car. I thought the shocks did a lot. The Progress CS-II's + the Swaybar makes my car a totally different vehicle.
Updated with a newer picture of my car with my much better camera:
Fantastic product. Fantastic customer service. I love the folks over at progress. If you've ever hesitated to buy their products you need to give Michelle or Jeff a phone call. Some of the nicest people I've ever spoken to on the phone.