a90sickz

A 94 LS NON VTEC I KNOW THE GASKET IS ABOUT 50.00 BUT HOW BOUT LABOR OR IS IT EASY TO FIX IT MYSELF MAYBE HAHA WELL JUST ASKING FOR THE HELP THANKS- OLEANDER

JDM_SOHC

https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch

ddd4114

It's not hard if you have a Helm's manual, a halfway decent set of tools, and a shred of mechanical aptitude.

95ProjectEJ1

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ddd4114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It's not hard if you have a Helm's manual, a halfway decent set of tools, and a shred of mechanical aptitude.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The question you have to ask yourself is do you have enough time on your hands to take your time and do it right? Or would you just like to drop 150+ to have someone tear off the head and replace it?

ddd4114

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The question you have to ask yourself is do you have enough time on your hands to take your time and do it right? Or would you just like to drop 150+ to have someone tear off the head and replace it? </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's a good point.

I know a few people that work as mechanics/technicians, and personally, I wouldn't let them lay a finger on my engine. Just because somebody is knowledgeable or works as a mechanic, doesn't mean they will do good work. However, that is a generalization, and if somebody doesn't have the time and/or knows a competent shop, he might want to take that route.

austinkli

it's not really that hard, I have replaced my head gasket 3 times, once on my toyota, twice on my civic. The only thing you want to make sure, is that you have enough time to do it. Get a good manual, some good tools, and at least a whole weekend, maybe longer. But as long as you don't mind putting in some effort and work, do it yourself, you'll save a lot of money. Unfortonately, i think i'll be doing the same thing again this weekend. Why do i blow so many head gaskets?

ShortyzKustomz

I've done a Honda in a few hours, My Toyota which was supposed to be easy took a few weeks after work everyday. If you got another vehicle to get around and wanna learn its not hard at all, just dont rush it!

Syndacate

Do note that most of the time when you fry a head gasket you can't just slap a new one on and torque the head down and drive off into the sunset.

Usually you have to have the head milled so it's flat again (machine work) - this costs $$.

The half assed way of replacing one after it's blown usually consists of no-machine shop entered into the equation, but if it's blown (opposed to leaking) you should get the head milled before putting it back on.

ddd4114

That's another good point.

Before you put the head back on, make sure you get a straight edge and a set of feeler gauges, and check how much the mating surface has been warped. I forget what the tolerances are exactly, but I would definitely get the head resurfaced if it exceeds 0.006" in any direction.

Turbo EG4

just do it yourself

take bolts out

take head off

make sure to mount it right

put it all back together of course its gonna be hella hard and frustrating

Colby71

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ddd4114 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That's a good point.

I know a few people that work as mechanics/technicians, and personally, I wouldn't let them lay a finger on my engine. Just because somebody is knowledgeable or works as a mechanic, doesn't mean they will do good work. However, that is a generalization, and if somebody doesn't have the time and/or knows a competent shop, he might want to take that route.</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2 There is a kid around town who works at a dealership but he let his own tire fall off and his brakes where to the point of getting 3/16 ruts in the rotors then just slaped a new pair of pads on insted of replacing them.

You should replace your headbolts to they strech after a use. I just did my headgasket and it only took me 5 hours. You should lable the hoses and plugs befor you unplug them to save time.

crazyguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Colby71 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You should replace your headbolts to they strech after a use.</TD></TR></TABLE>
+1. i always get the new head bolts when i am doing my engine work. i always use oem head bolts

Colby71

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
+1. i always get the new head bolts when i am doing my engine work. i always use oem head bolts</TD></TR></TABLE>

I went for the ARP studs good thing becues I ended up taking the head off a week later and they say they are ok if you reuse them.

95ProjectEJ1

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Colby71 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I went for the ARP studs good thing becues I ended up taking the head off a week later and they say they are ok if you reuse them.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, and only tighten them to "hand tight" is nice too and worry free.

austinkli

this is absolutley true, you may take the head off and think it looks good, but trust me, it's worth the time, and money to get it taken care of right the first time.

Colby71

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, and only tighten them to "hand tight" is nice too and worry free. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you still torque them to 74lb and there is still 74lb holding the head down. I never herd anything bad about them.

phyzJunkieCivic

Indeed get it check out before slapping everything back in.
There is not point replaceing the head gasket if your not going to check the head + block. It will eventually blow again.

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95ProjectEJ1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, and only tighten them to "hand tight" is nice too and worry free. </TD></TR></TABLE>

LoL

The head bolts is one of the few places where I'd express the need of a torque wrench.

Although it's not necessary at all I wouldn't recommend "just hand tightening them down."

Though maybe it's just because I don't do things half assed .

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo EG4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just do it yourself

take bolts out

take head off

make sure to mount it right

put it all back together of course its gonna be hella hard and frustrating</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, listen to this guy, you'll have low power do to head gasket leakage, then your head gasket will blow because it's not on a flat surface and you'll be **** outta luck again. Listen to this guy if you want to burn coolant faster than you burn fuel .

- Head should be checked for flatness and if necessary (if it's blown it's usually necessary) milled down by a machine shop
- Block deck surface should be scraped for any residue of the headgasket
- New head studs should be put on, ARP is good, but if it's stock, OEM is fine too, whatever's cheaper really without doing some ebay special bullshit
- New headgasket (yes, opposed to used)
- Torque head bolts and head back down in the proper tightening sequence to proper torque specifications

If you half *** your head gasket it will simply blow again.

crazyguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The head bolts is one of the few places where I'd express the need of a torque wrench.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
dude how much force of torque? thanks

Syndacate

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
dude how much force of torque? thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

LS with LS head = 22ft-lbs, then go over it again to 63ft-lbs according to the Honda/Acura service manual.

Though the most important thing isn't torque, it's consistency.

Having the bolts at 50 all the way around is better than having A) Some at 63 and some at 50, and B) Improper torque sequence.

ShortyzKustomz

I always get my heads checked. Didnt add that in my post, But on my Toyota, It was $160 to get it checked, shaved, new valve seats and seals and came back spotless!

a90sickz

thanks for all the advice I really appreciate it , I have some decent well basic tool set except the tork wrench i'ma try working on it when im off where would be best to buy or find head bolts

ddd4114

You can buy ARP studs from eBay or Summit Racing, or you can get OEM head bolts from Majestic Honda (online). These are just a couple sources; there are many more.

However, if the head has never been off the block, you can reuse your OEM bolts. I would tighten them down by an extra 5 ft-lbs, but they should be fine regardless. If you ever plan to raise your engine's compression (especially via turbocharging) or plan to remove the head again, ARP studs are a good investment.

austinkli

just a quick suggestion, as i said before, i've been through 3 head gaskets and currently working on my fourth. Today i tried everything I could not to have to replace the head, especially since it's already been shaved once. I found two different things to use. If it's a small blow, there is a substance called blue devil, that seals blown head gasket. I also used a substance called alumino seal. it's got little metal shavings in it and it cost $2. I got it at advanced auto. it didn't say for sealing headgaskets, just radiators, but between the two, one of them worked great. so all together i spent $67 dollars on it and didn't have to do any work. I think this is the first miracle product i've found that actually works. i'd try the alumino seal since it's on $2 if i were you. Can't hurt to try.

ddd4114

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by austinkli &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just a quick suggestion, as i said before, i've been through 3 head gaskets and currently working on my fourth. Today i tried everything I could not to have to replace the head, especially since it's already been shaved once. I found two different things to use. If it's a small blow, there is a substance called blue devil, that seals blown head gasket. I also used a substance called alumino seal. it's got little metal shavings in it and it cost $2. I got it at advanced auto. it didn't say for sealing headgaskets, just radiators, but between the two, one of them worked great. so all together i spent $67 dollars on it and didn't have to do any work. I think this is the first miracle product i've found that actually works. i'd try the alumino seal since it's on $2 if i were you. Can't hurt to try.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd advise against that... a cheap, band-aid fix is not the best solution. It will mostly likely fail again, and you're going to have to rip the head off anyway.