how much should i expect to pay for rod/main bearings labor?
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how much should i expect to pay for rod/main bearings labor?
i toasted all my bearings awhile back, im having them all replaced, what im trying to figure out is how much is the average price for parts and labor, i believe the motor has to come out to get the crank out to do the mains... the guy will be using acl bearings.
engine is a b-series (b16b in a ej/ek)
engine is a b-series (b16b in a ej/ek)
#3
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considering the person that does the labor might take the engine out of the car. buy new bearings, headgasket, head studs, balance rotating assembly, re-hone the cylinders, and check clearances. it might be more that $1000.
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Yea it's gonna be at least $1k with the bulk of that going towards labor. You pretty much have to take apart the whole block. Parts will run you a couple hundred only, but the rest will be labor. The bearings are sold in halves and you have to look at the number coding on your crank to determine what color bearings you need. When I bought mine, I think it was like $20 for each half bearing. I don't know if you have the tools or what not, but if you do, I would go buy a Helms manual and give it a shot at doing it yourself. The experience you get from it is priceless.
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Re: (92redhatch)
thanks for the advice so far guys, reason i ask is becuase my friend owes me $500 and he said we could just do my rod/main bearings... he's built a lot high hp b-series so i trust his work, but im pretty sure he wont take the head off the block or anything.
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Re: (blinx9900)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the advice so far guys, reason i ask is becuase my friend owes me $500 and he said we could just do my rod/main bearings... he's built a lot high hp b-series so i trust his work, but im pretty sure he wont take the head off the block or anything.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would recommend that while you're at it, you should take the block out and bring it to a machine shop and have them rehone the cylinder walls and change the piston rings. I would also rebalance the crank, rods, hot tank the block...the whole 9. Since it's already going to ba takin apart. In that case you will need to take the head off the block.
I would recommend that while you're at it, you should take the block out and bring it to a machine shop and have them rehone the cylinder walls and change the piston rings. I would also rebalance the crank, rods, hot tank the block...the whole 9. Since it's already going to ba takin apart. In that case you will need to take the head off the block.
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Re: (som3on3_10)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by som3on3_10 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I would recommend that while you're at it, you should take the block out and bring it to a machine shop and have them rehone the cylinder walls and change the piston rings. I would also rebalance the crank, rods, hot tank the block...the whole 9. Since it's already going to ba takin apart. In that case you will need to take the head off the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i understand what your saying and i appreaciate the advice but im at the end of my project im 2x over the budget and ive just run out of money i would have also like to have stuffed some forged pistons/rods in there (its boosted) but i just dont have the $$ right now, and im not going to have it anytime soon.
(this is not a case of "im broke poor me" i just had a family thing come up and my financial obligations have changed)
is it gonna be that bad if i dont do all that? the only reason my mains/rods are effed is cause i overrevved for a split second a while back.
I would recommend that while you're at it, you should take the block out and bring it to a machine shop and have them rehone the cylinder walls and change the piston rings. I would also rebalance the crank, rods, hot tank the block...the whole 9. Since it's already going to ba takin apart. In that case you will need to take the head off the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i understand what your saying and i appreaciate the advice but im at the end of my project im 2x over the budget and ive just run out of money i would have also like to have stuffed some forged pistons/rods in there (its boosted) but i just dont have the $$ right now, and im not going to have it anytime soon.
(this is not a case of "im broke poor me" i just had a family thing come up and my financial obligations have changed)
is it gonna be that bad if i dont do all that? the only reason my mains/rods are effed is cause i overrevved for a split second a while back.
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I'm sure you'll be OK, but me personally I wouldn't take the chance to have something go wrong again, which will cost you more $$ in the long run. If you effed up your main/rod bearings, then your rod/crank may or may not need to be rebalanced as well. I figure for the extra $$ it will cost you to do all of those little things, the benefit far exceeds it. I would borrow $$ or wait until you have the extra funds, then finish your car. Just my 2 cents.
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Re: (som3on3_10)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by som3on3_10 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I would borrow $$ or wait until you have the extra funds, then finish your car. Just my 2 cents.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ive been heavily considering both options, as long as im not risking catastrophic engine failure i think imight chance it for now and just cough up a little extra down the line to do it right.
ive been heavily considering both options, as long as im not risking catastrophic engine failure i think imight chance it for now and just cough up a little extra down the line to do it right.
#11
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Re: (blinx9900)
Didn't read through all of it.
Let me say this. Are your bearings shot or spun???
If spun then time for A) new crank or B) fixing crank
If just replacing bearings then you have a B16B. I would not use ACL bearings.
I would order OEM bearings which for my GSR block ran me right around 300.00 or just under for mains/rods and thrust washers.
plastiguage resulted in 1 at 0.0014 1 at 0.0016 and the other 3 dead on at 0.0015
Still waiting on getting pistons onto my rods.
Might as well pull your slugs and go with a set of new oem rings as well.
But then the head comes off.
For 1000.00 in parts you could rebuild the whole engine and buy a couple tools like engine stand, rent a cherry picker.
Gotta pay to play and what is the sense of having a B16B knowing its a rare motor and parts are more expensive.
Get a gsr block and put your R head on it. Lower compression since you say its boosted.
My 0.02
Let me say this. Are your bearings shot or spun???
If spun then time for A) new crank or B) fixing crank
If just replacing bearings then you have a B16B. I would not use ACL bearings.
I would order OEM bearings which for my GSR block ran me right around 300.00 or just under for mains/rods and thrust washers.
plastiguage resulted in 1 at 0.0014 1 at 0.0016 and the other 3 dead on at 0.0015
Still waiting on getting pistons onto my rods.
Might as well pull your slugs and go with a set of new oem rings as well.
But then the head comes off.
For 1000.00 in parts you could rebuild the whole engine and buy a couple tools like engine stand, rent a cherry picker.
Gotta pay to play and what is the sense of having a B16B knowing its a rare motor and parts are more expensive.
Get a gsr block and put your R head on it. Lower compression since you say its boosted.
My 0.02
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Re: (sauceja)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Didn't read through all of it.
Let me say this. Are your bearings shot or spun???
</TD></TR></TABLE>
shot, metal shavings in oil pan
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Gotta pay to play and what is the sense of having a B16B knowing its a rare motor and parts are more expensive.
Get a gsr block and put your R head on it. Lower compression since you say its boosted.My 0.02</TD></TR></TABLE>
i got the motor for really cheap, a 1.8 block is not a bad idea but:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...im at the end of my project im 2x over the budget and ive just run out of money...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so thats my main problem, im not really paying for the work either, friend owes me so i cant ask for too much.
Let me say this. Are your bearings shot or spun???
</TD></TR></TABLE>
shot, metal shavings in oil pan
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Gotta pay to play and what is the sense of having a B16B knowing its a rare motor and parts are more expensive.
Get a gsr block and put your R head on it. Lower compression since you say its boosted.My 0.02</TD></TR></TABLE>
i got the motor for really cheap, a 1.8 block is not a bad idea but:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
...im at the end of my project im 2x over the budget and ive just run out of money...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
so thats my main problem, im not really paying for the work either, friend owes me so i cant ask for too much.
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