D16SiHatch

So I liked the retrofit in my ek so much that i decided i would do something very similar on my eg as well. rather than use the G3 style projectors, i went with something different.

Morimoto Mini H1's v4.1. with bulbs they are $145.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pro...5mst43kekbcj9h

I had intended on using the stock headlights to do this retrofit however they have fluted lenses and this would lead to light scatter and an uneven beam pattern. For that reason i went with an aftermarket headlight with a clear glass housing.


Parts you will need:

-Headlights (highly recommend using lights with clear non-fluted lenses)
-Morimoto Mini H1 projectors and shrouds (x2)
-H1 hid bulbs (if you don't get them with the above kit)
-Harnesses (included with the projector)
-Hid ballats


So, on with the show.

pictured: headlights, bulbs, harnesses, projectors, and ballasts. I already installed the mini-graphite housings with the supplied 8 screws (4 per side)




First i removed the rubber dust boot and city light housing/wiring from the headlamp. What's left is the clip for the stock bulb, which pivots on the single screw to the far right. remove the screw and discard said clip. There are also 2 more screws that hold the reflector in place, which is no longer needed. one screw is easily visible near the bottom left, and the other is partially hidden but at the top left. Remove both screws and then remove and discard the stock reflector.




Next, preheat your oven to 250 degrees fahrenheit. While you're waiting, remove the 4 metal clips that secure the glass to the plastic housing with a flat-blade screwdriver. Now once the oven is up to temp place your headlight on a NON-metal surface like a thick piece of cardboard or wood, and then place it in the oven. I know what you might be thinking, and no it will not catch fire and/or set your house ablaze. the autoignition temp, even for cardboard, is far beyond 250 degrees so don't worry. Set your timer for 15 minutes, drink a beer, and wait patiently as your headlight pie bakes to perfection. Pull it out carefully and set it on some rags/oven mits/dead hookers so as not to ruin your lovely kitchen island. With the face of the headlight (that'd be the glass side) facing down, pry slowly around the glass and plastic housing until the glass begins to seperate. When you're done it should look something like this.




Here pictured is exactly how it will come together. From left to right: Projector, projector housing bushing (already installed), headlight, orientation ring, lock ring, bulb mount, bulb clip.




Here you can see the orientation and lock ring installed, holding the projector securely in place. Don't be afraid to put a little *** into it either while torquing it down. If the projector is still loose within the housing keep turning the lock ring until everything is snug, and the projector is secure. The orientation ring is a tight fit, so as you tighten and feel resistance, it's just the ring being seated in place.




Once you assemble the light as described above you will be ready to put the headlight back into the oven for 15 minutes. This allows the sealant to soften up again so that you get a good seal when putting it back together. Reassemble it the same way it was taken apart, with the glass facing down. Re-install the 4 metal clips once it's back together. As far as sealing the headlight goes i decided not to add anything because what was there appeared to be enough to reseal it. If you so choose you can use high temp rtv silicone or ribbon weld, also known as butyl rubber, which works excellent from what i've read.

Now that the light is back together, wait for it to cool, and install the bulb base (held in with 3 screws), the h1 bulb, and the supplied retaining clip.




rubber dust boot reinstalled, hid bulb bushing used to seal the opening. Positive and negative wire for high beam shutter ran through the 2 unoccupied holes for a clean look.




One headlight done




left: retrofit complete, right: stock




both lights done




Now for the install. First remove the front bumper. There are 5 screws in the center, and 1 at each fender well. Once the bumper is off, then remove the headlights, 4 nuts in total per side.




Install is reverse of removal. reinstall the new lamps and corner lights. Use the harness in the kit to connect each factory headlight harness to the ballast. Then connect the output of the ballast to the bulb. This takes care of your low beam. Then run the high beam wire from your stock harness to the positive wire of the shutter. Negative side of the shutter goes to the headlight harness ground. These lamps also had city lights so i wired them in as well.




low beams on




And here is the cut-off. camera does a **** poor job of picking it up though. It's much sharper and nicer in person.




Lastly here are some finished install pictures the next day while the sun still was out lol.







So i think that should about do it. Any questions feel free to ask, and if i've forgotten anything i will update/add it later lol.

Linked

nice writeup, the only bad thing i can say is that the only clear lens headlights are the ebay one and almost all the time they don't fit correctly on the car like the last pic above

Rusty22

i saw that too other than that good info got new ideas now

D16SiHatch

I would bet it's more the fault of the hood than the light itself, but i can't say for sure. it looks worse in the pic than in real life i can say that much. The hood has to go though, i want to find another cf hood, just one that has the same dimensions as the stock hood.