how-to hone your cylinders before you build a motor
#1
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how-to hone your cylinders before you build a motor
i noticed alot of people on here cant hone ther motor let alone rip it apart..........i guess when it actually comes to stuff that actually matters ht cant live up to it, comeon these hondas have unbeliveable potential, put the rota wheels, and stickers away for a second and build a motor
you are going to need:
- a drill. air, electirc cordless or eletric cord
-a compressor or extension cord (depending)
-cuttiong oil or clean motor oil
-soap
-many clean rags or shop towels (napkins would help)
-a cylinder hone attachment which looks like
-
the idea of a cylinder hone is to basically resurface the cylinder, you are basically breaking the glaze the piston and rings created over the cylinder walls to basically start anew
first off dissassemble the motor (i will have a clickable thread to this up soon)
thats right pistons everything out
second if you work at a shop hot tank the block (you want to clean the block before you get that nice hone done
if not use that engine spray and degresses stuff works semi alight
imsure you guys dont need pics of me doing this part if so maybe building motors is not for you? jk
before you go a step further inspect the cylinders, look for deep scuff's in the cylinder walls etc if the block is known to have no rebuilds any deep scuff is fine, but if the motor is on lets say its 9th rebuild at .40 over and it has a deep scuff that needs to be bored out its time to sleeve it
next step clean the cylinders out, after that apply either a cutting oil, or motor oil
begin the hone, you may use an electric drill of pnuematic, aim for a 60 degree intersection of each line, start slow from the top and continue to the bottom, after the major cuts are done i like to go over the cylinders quiclly in a fast motion to "finish off" the hone's finish
after you are finihed wash the clyinders with warm soapy water to remove the metal etchings if you dont do this the rings will be damaged and itll expletive up on you later
oil the cylinders after the wash and try to prevent the cylinders from rusting and having you to rehone the cylinder
you are going to need:
- a drill. air, electirc cordless or eletric cord
-a compressor or extension cord (depending)
-cuttiong oil or clean motor oil
-soap
-many clean rags or shop towels (napkins would help)
-a cylinder hone attachment which looks like
-
the idea of a cylinder hone is to basically resurface the cylinder, you are basically breaking the glaze the piston and rings created over the cylinder walls to basically start anew
first off dissassemble the motor (i will have a clickable thread to this up soon)
thats right pistons everything out
second if you work at a shop hot tank the block (you want to clean the block before you get that nice hone done
if not use that engine spray and degresses stuff works semi alight
imsure you guys dont need pics of me doing this part if so maybe building motors is not for you? jk
before you go a step further inspect the cylinders, look for deep scuff's in the cylinder walls etc if the block is known to have no rebuilds any deep scuff is fine, but if the motor is on lets say its 9th rebuild at .40 over and it has a deep scuff that needs to be bored out its time to sleeve it
next step clean the cylinders out, after that apply either a cutting oil, or motor oil
begin the hone, you may use an electric drill of pnuematic, aim for a 60 degree intersection of each line, start slow from the top and continue to the bottom, after the major cuts are done i like to go over the cylinders quiclly in a fast motion to "finish off" the hone's finish
after you are finihed wash the clyinders with warm soapy water to remove the metal etchings if you dont do this the rings will be damaged and itll expletive up on you later
oil the cylinders after the wash and try to prevent the cylinders from rusting and having you to rehone the cylinder
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Re: how-to hone your cylinders before you build a motor (John M)
ty, im taking it down in 3 days cant stand to have my stuff up for more than 1 week
#5
Honda-Tech Member
I've used the other type of honing stones, the bottle hone type with a lot of luck. its the kind with all the stone ***** on the ends of the springs that you attach to the drill and use much the same way. I've heard its a lot easier to use for a first time and for our first time it came out perfect, i thought the kind you showed was just a glaze breaker. maybe add a picture of the other type of hone for reference or something i dont know. good write up though
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Re: how-to hone your cylinders before you build a motor (spork motorsports)
ahaha
First off, that hone you have pictured SUCKS ***....
So, an update for the newbs. DONT USE THAT **** he has pictured. You can expletive up your block VERY quick with that. You want a ballstone hone. Pictured here.
These allow for alot more room for errors if you mess up. Telling someone how to hone a block in 3 paragraphs isnt going to cut it. Anyways, just figure i would help some people out here so they dont go ******* up there block with your rock stone hone.
First off, that hone you have pictured SUCKS ***....
So, an update for the newbs. DONT USE THAT **** he has pictured. You can expletive up your block VERY quick with that. You want a ballstone hone. Pictured here.
These allow for alot more room for errors if you mess up. Telling someone how to hone a block in 3 paragraphs isnt going to cut it. Anyways, just figure i would help some people out here so they dont go ******* up there block with your rock stone hone.
#7
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Re: how-to hone your cylinders before you build a motor (Diyracing2)
i prefer the rock hone since its quicker, i dont like the ball stye, prefrence is really up to you
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#9
Re: (envee)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spork motorsports »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i noticed alot of people on here cant hone ther motor let alone rip it apart..........i guess when it actually comes to stuff that actually matters ht cant live up to it, comeon these hondas have unbeliveable potential, put the rota wheels, and stickers away for a second and build a motor
you are going to need:
- a drill. air, electirc cordless or eletric cord
-a compressor or extension cord (depending)
-cuttiong oil or clean motor oil
-soap
-many clean rags or shop towels (napkins would help)
-a cylinder hone attachment which looks like
-
the idea of a cylinder hone is to basically resurface the cylinder, you are basically breaking the glaze the piston and rings created over the cylinder walls to basically start anew
first off dissassemble the motor (i will have a clickable thread to this up soon)
thats right pistons everything out
second if you work at a shop hot tank the block (you want to clean the block before you get that nice hone done
if not use that engine spray and degresses stuff works semi alight
imsure you guys dont need pics of me doing this part if so maybe building motors is not for you? jk
before you go a step further inspect the cylinders, look for deep scuff's in the cylinder walls etc if the block is known to have no rebuilds any deep scuff is fine, but if the motor is on lets say its 9th rebuild at .40 over and it has a deep scuff that needs to be bored out its time to sleeve it
next step clean the cylinders out, after that apply either a cutting oil, or motor oil
begin the hone, you may use an electric drill of pnuematic, aim for a 60 degree intersection of each line, start slow from the top and continue to the bottom, after the major cuts are done i like to go over the cylinders quiclly in a fast motion to "finish off" the hone's finish
after you are finihed wash the clyinders with warm soapy water to remove the metal etchings if you dont do this the rings will be damaged and itll expletive up on you later
oil the cylinders after the wash and try to prevent the cylinders from rusting and having you to rehone the cylinder
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Diyracing2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahaha
First off, that hone you have pictured SUCKS ***....
So, an update for the newbs. DONT USE THAT **** he has pictured. You can expletive up your block VERY quick with that. You want a ballstone hone. Pictured here.
These allow for alot more room for errors if you mess up. Telling someone how to hone a block in 3 paragraphs isnt going to cut it. Anyways, just figure i would help some people out here so they dont go ******* up there block with your rock stone hone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
quoted because he said he will take down soon...
you are going to need:
- a drill. air, electirc cordless or eletric cord
-a compressor or extension cord (depending)
-cuttiong oil or clean motor oil
-soap
-many clean rags or shop towels (napkins would help)
-a cylinder hone attachment which looks like
-
the idea of a cylinder hone is to basically resurface the cylinder, you are basically breaking the glaze the piston and rings created over the cylinder walls to basically start anew
first off dissassemble the motor (i will have a clickable thread to this up soon)
thats right pistons everything out
second if you work at a shop hot tank the block (you want to clean the block before you get that nice hone done
if not use that engine spray and degresses stuff works semi alight
imsure you guys dont need pics of me doing this part if so maybe building motors is not for you? jk
before you go a step further inspect the cylinders, look for deep scuff's in the cylinder walls etc if the block is known to have no rebuilds any deep scuff is fine, but if the motor is on lets say its 9th rebuild at .40 over and it has a deep scuff that needs to be bored out its time to sleeve it
next step clean the cylinders out, after that apply either a cutting oil, or motor oil
begin the hone, you may use an electric drill of pnuematic, aim for a 60 degree intersection of each line, start slow from the top and continue to the bottom, after the major cuts are done i like to go over the cylinders quiclly in a fast motion to "finish off" the hone's finish
after you are finihed wash the clyinders with warm soapy water to remove the metal etchings if you dont do this the rings will be damaged and itll expletive up on you later
oil the cylinders after the wash and try to prevent the cylinders from rusting and having you to rehone the cylinder
</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Diyracing2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ahaha
First off, that hone you have pictured SUCKS ***....
So, an update for the newbs. DONT USE THAT **** he has pictured. You can expletive up your block VERY quick with that. You want a ballstone hone. Pictured here.
These allow for alot more room for errors if you mess up. Telling someone how to hone a block in 3 paragraphs isnt going to cut it. Anyways, just figure i would help some people out here so they dont go ******* up there block with your rock stone hone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
quoted because he said he will take down soon...
#11
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Re: (envee)
In Helms (or at least its Honda that says so) its stated that 400grit or finer stones should be used. Its not even recommended to try a plateau finish (rough then fine to speed break-in). Hondas have low-tension rings, meaning rough finishes will take a very long time to break in. If you poke around, Arias rings usually suck ***** (to be fair - moreso than others), and are much higher tension than mostly all rings.
Its also recommended that you stay away from ball hones (dingleberry hones, carbide *****). I dunno why, but I suspect that the stone hones promote even material removal, and help straighten the bores a bit.
The main thing with the cutting fluid you use: particle evacuation. You want the fluid to lift and remove the metal bits away from the stones, as too much flakes will start roughing the finish due to loading up on the stone and making deep gouges (compaired to a normal hone 'valley'). Many people use kerosene-based fluids, which is what WD40 is based on. I've used degreasers (engine brite) on V8's in the past, but Hondas (any fuel-injected motor) tend to be a bit more touchy.
Its also recommended that you stay away from ball hones (dingleberry hones, carbide *****). I dunno why, but I suspect that the stone hones promote even material removal, and help straighten the bores a bit.
The main thing with the cutting fluid you use: particle evacuation. You want the fluid to lift and remove the metal bits away from the stones, as too much flakes will start roughing the finish due to loading up on the stone and making deep gouges (compaired to a normal hone 'valley'). Many people use kerosene-based fluids, which is what WD40 is based on. I've used degreasers (engine brite) on V8's in the past, but Hondas (any fuel-injected motor) tend to be a bit more touchy.
#12
Re: (HiProfile)
I understand the need to cut on costs but, this is not the proper way to hone your motor. If you want your rings to seat and your motor to last bring it to a shop and get it done the right way. You could cut down on your shop bill by bringing the motor to the shop disassembled and reassemble it your self. But for the actual honing have it done the right way.
#14
Re: (Dann6968)
the machine shop that i used charges $130.00. That might be a little over priced its kind of a spendy place but they do good work and i wanted my motor built right since i was putting so much money into my block. im sure you can get a place to do it for about $100.
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