spettinger

need to run a compression test before i change the timing belt, would be nice to see what kind of shape the rings/headgasket are in as that would be the best time to pull the head. thanks.

Extreme

I just unplug the distributor and remove the spark plugs.

B18C-EJ1

NO, do not do that.

Remove the ECU fuse, or remove the ECU itself.

DO NOT just unplug the dist. You'll still dump fuel in the holes.

Loco Honkey

So pull the fuel pump fuse as well.

Unplugging the distributor from the engine harness, and pulling the fuel pump fuse (or unplugging the pump from the car harness) is an ASE approved method for disabling fuel and ignition for engine work.

Slurp56

another method if your lazy like me. This is how I do it:



Basically you leave the keys out of the car (thus fuel and spark are disabled). These two alligator clips clip to the big power wire on the starter and also the thin wire. Pull the trigger and the car is cranking. You could bypass the trigger by using any ordinary piece of wire and shorting the thick power wire on the thin one.


[Modified by Slurp56, 10:52 PM 12/4/2002]

pornstarSR

all you really need to do is take the spark plug wires off, and take the plugs out...

turn it over 7 times each cylinder.... make sure its the same number of cranks per cylinder....

Loco Honkey

Yeah, but you still have fuel being fed into the engine, and no way to ground the coil, which could fry it.

pornstarSR

umm yeah...ok so why would you fry the coil......

so what about the fuel there is so little goin into the engine that its not going to cause a problem....just dont crank it over 30 times

Loco Honkey

umm, cuz it's not being allowed to properly discharge the voltage?

Why not just take the extra two seconds and be safe? This is what sets us ASE guys apart from you shade tree guys. It's what also seperates the hardcore race cars from the body kit trailer queens.

43MA

that pretty much sums it up

Slurp56

So what does that make me? I dont do it the ASE way, nor do I have spark or fuel

Loco Honkey

It makes you a guy without spark or fuel. Your way works fine too. My point being that both spark and fuel should be disabled, and there shouldn't be any power going to the distributor. How you manage this is up to you. Your way is great because you don't need two people to do it. Just make sure the throttle is WOT.

hanson said

wouldn't the fuel going in affect the compression numbers slighty as well?

Slurp56

Its all about having a finger on the TB throttle cable clamp

Loco Honkey

It could. So could valve timing, the condition of the starter and battery, temperature of the engine, ect ect ect... Best way to determine what's going on in there is a leakdown.

Slurp56

Since you mentioned it. Is there a good place to buy a leakdown tester? I've been to Sears, shucks, B&B, and Napa. I found one on the snap-on site, but I am not prepared to drop $288 on a damn leakdown tester.

pornstarSR

sure if thats what you say, you can do that and im not saying it wont do what you want....

the man that taught me everything and is right next to me is an ASE certified and ASE Master certified mechanic and has worked at honda for 10 years, so i take his knowledge pretty seriously....

dont insult my intelligence as a mechanic....you dont know me.

i dont know you and im not insulting you


[Modified by pornstarSR, 1:29 AM 12/5/2002]

pornstarSR

also trailer queens are gay....IMO

Loco Honkey

I don't. I was using you as a general term; not you specifically. I'm sorry you took it that way.

pornstarSR

ok i take it back, sorry about that having a few bad days....

plus i get frustrated when people on this board get on there highhorse about things and tell everyone else there wrong (not saying you were doing that)

everyone has there own ways of doing things....weither or not they are the most efficient way of doing it or not it doepends on the purpose and the person....

and when it boils down to it im gona shut up because all the ways you all are stating including mine are ways of doing it that will work...

43MA

the way you suggested to do it is the "flat rate way" when time is money
but if its your own car take the extra minute to do it properly

pornstarSR

Properly. hmmm ok i give up on these people.

you get the same outcome, the same end result, it may not be as accurate, it may not be as clean....but thats not what he asked.

43MA

if its not as accurate or not as clean
then it aint the same outcome or same result

pornstarSR

well if you want it to be down to the exact psi then yeah do it your way...

why am i justifying myself

are you just looking for someone to say your right.....