how to get more power out of me gsr
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how to get more power out of me gsr
i got a 01 gsr with 4 in 1 headers p72 with hondata s100, act clutch with flywheel and lsd......i mean the car running pretty good...but am trying to make more power out of it... and i want it to know a good way to make more power
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Re: how to get more power out of me gsr (94whitegsi)
how much money are you willing to spend? what are your goals for this car? drag car or auto x? it all depends on your overall goal what way you wish to make power.
#5
The most effective ways to make power in N/A street form is to raise compression, fine tune the fuel and ignition, and play around with different cams and cam timing. If you want to do more extensive work, create a greater rod ratio, balance the engine, and port the head.
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#8
Re: (94whitegsi)
In that case, an intake, and a good exhaust, and you should have money left over, so an intake manifold.
There's a way to make your car faster that's free too. Learn to drive it. Awesome mod.
There's a way to make your car faster that's free too. Learn to drive it. Awesome mod.
#9
If on a tight budget, I'm surprised you spent money on the aftermarket clutch/flywheel. OEM clutch is fine for the power you're at and a Type R flyweel can be found prety cheap if you look around.
Anyway, with $1000 more, polish out a Type R intake manifold, find some cheap Type R camshafts, and get a catback system.
Anyway, with $1000 more, polish out a Type R intake manifold, find some cheap Type R camshafts, and get a catback system.
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Re: (Hardedge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hardedge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If on a tight budget, I'm surprised you spent money on the aftermarket clutch/flywheel. OEM clutch is fine for the power you're at and a Type R flyweel can be found prety cheap if you look around.
Anyway, with $1000 more, polish out a Type R intake manifold, find some cheap Type R camshafts, and get a catback system. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ITR flywheels aren't really that much lighter than stock B series flywheels. There's a small difference.
OP: Bolt ons. They make good power and your car stays reliable. Use the extra money on your girlfriend...or buy some clothes? go to the track? buy drinks for women at bars in hopes of getting laid? iduno. That's how i roll.
Anyway, with $1000 more, polish out a Type R intake manifold, find some cheap Type R camshafts, and get a catback system. </TD></TR></TABLE>
ITR flywheels aren't really that much lighter than stock B series flywheels. There's a small difference.
OP: Bolt ons. They make good power and your car stays reliable. Use the extra money on your girlfriend...or buy some clothes? go to the track? buy drinks for women at bars in hopes of getting laid? iduno. That's how i roll.
#11
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Re: (93egB16A)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egB16A »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id go with a set of cams and a IM w/ a good tune... that would give you good numbers and keep it a good dd.</TD></TR></TABLE>
skunk2's stage 2 cams, pair them with cam gears, and a sk2 mani with a good tune. you'll def see 10hp-15hp...
turbo would do the job and would be the easiest way...
skunk2's stage 2 cams, pair them with cam gears, and a sk2 mani with a good tune. you'll def see 10hp-15hp...
turbo would do the job and would be the easiest way...
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Re: (mustang5.slow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mustang5.slow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">boost never hurts and a squeeze here and there never hurt anyone.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Idunno. About 95% of people dont know how to tune, maintain a tune, or take care of a turbo'd honda. Nitrous can be iffy as well if you dont have the proper fuel metering. In either case, a new engine is expensive.
Idunno. About 95% of people dont know how to tune, maintain a tune, or take care of a turbo'd honda. Nitrous can be iffy as well if you dont have the proper fuel metering. In either case, a new engine is expensive.
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Re: (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Idunno. About 95% of people dont know how to tune, maintain a tune, or take care of a turbo'd honda. Nitrous can be iffy as well if you dont have the proper fuel metering. In either case, a new engine is expensive. </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha U got that right. but it's noting a little research cant fix.
Idunno. About 95% of people dont know how to tune, maintain a tune, or take care of a turbo'd honda. Nitrous can be iffy as well if you dont have the proper fuel metering. In either case, a new engine is expensive. </TD></TR></TABLE>
haha U got that right. but it's noting a little research cant fix.
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Re: (mustang5.slow)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mustang5.slow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
haha U got that right. but it's noting a little research cant fix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess. But the guy said he only had $1k. Since a good tune by itself costs like $300-500, that only leaves him $700-500 for hardware AND engine management. It's not gonna happen.
A GOOD turbo setup will cost you some serious $$$. Then it'll just blow up anyway tuned or not tuned lol.
At $1k, if all you're looking for is power, then I'd say nitrous. It's easy and sleazy. Just make sure you get the supporting mods. Which, again, will put you over $1k.
So in the end, it comes down to bolt ons lol. They're safe, and for $1k, on a B series, you can probably make about 10-15whp. Not bad. On a D series....well....just save up some more and buy a B series. That's the BEST D series mod
I'm a bolt on/NA guy myself as far as street Hondas go. I've never had the time to build a dedicated race car. Although, I should really pick up an EF or EG shell and do it. Either way, I'd still go NA. No space in the garage right now, though. Too many toys lol.
haha U got that right. but it's noting a little research cant fix.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess. But the guy said he only had $1k. Since a good tune by itself costs like $300-500, that only leaves him $700-500 for hardware AND engine management. It's not gonna happen.
A GOOD turbo setup will cost you some serious $$$. Then it'll just blow up anyway tuned or not tuned lol.
At $1k, if all you're looking for is power, then I'd say nitrous. It's easy and sleazy. Just make sure you get the supporting mods. Which, again, will put you over $1k.
So in the end, it comes down to bolt ons lol. They're safe, and for $1k, on a B series, you can probably make about 10-15whp. Not bad. On a D series....well....just save up some more and buy a B series. That's the BEST D series mod
I'm a bolt on/NA guy myself as far as street Hondas go. I've never had the time to build a dedicated race car. Although, I should really pick up an EF or EG shell and do it. Either way, I'd still go NA. No space in the garage right now, though. Too many toys lol.
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Re: (Hardedge)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hardedge »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyway, with $1000 more, polish out a Type R intake manifold, find some cheap Type R camshafts, and get a catback system. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Cant put ITR manifolds on GSRs without drilling. More work than it's worth. The Skunk2 manifold is a bolt on. It's usually cheaper or the same price as the ITR manifold, too.
But I agree about the cam choice. Get some 00-01 ITR cams (also known as B16B CTR cams), and valve springs. You can either get an ITR ecu (requires you to have the key and ignition cylinder from the car you got the ECU from. or a chipped P28 and an OBD1 conversion. I'm sure the GSR bottom end can handle the stock ITR 8700rpm redline. Or atleast pretty sure. If your motor blows up, you'll know I was wrong. And knowing is half the battle.
Cant put ITR manifolds on GSRs without drilling. More work than it's worth. The Skunk2 manifold is a bolt on. It's usually cheaper or the same price as the ITR manifold, too.
But I agree about the cam choice. Get some 00-01 ITR cams (also known as B16B CTR cams), and valve springs. You can either get an ITR ecu (requires you to have the key and ignition cylinder from the car you got the ECU from. or a chipped P28 and an OBD1 conversion. I'm sure the GSR bottom end can handle the stock ITR 8700rpm redline. Or atleast pretty sure. If your motor blows up, you'll know I was wrong. And knowing is half the battle.
#19
Unceasing Measure
Re: (the jdmchop)
My suggestion is to not spend that $1000 on your car. If you're intent on making the thing faster, you've already got a clutch and ECU flexibility, so I'd save up more money until you can get yourself a decent turbokit. Can you piece one together for $1000? Perhaps, but With $2000 it's becomes a definite thing.
A GSR on boost is one of the best drugs I've ever done
A GSR on boost is one of the best drugs I've ever done
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Re: (Archidictus)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My suggestion is to not spend that $1000 on your car. If you're intent on making the thing faster, you've already got a clutch and ECU flexibility, so I'd save up more money until you can get yourself a decent turbokit. Can you piece one together for $1000? Perhaps, but With $2000 it's becomes a definite thing.
A GSR on boost is one of the best drugs I've ever done </TD></TR></TABLE>
You REALLY think a $2000 dollar turbo kit is a good idea?
A GSR on boost is one of the best drugs I've ever done </TD></TR></TABLE>
You REALLY think a $2000 dollar turbo kit is a good idea?
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