how do you know if you have "spun a bearing"
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how do you know if you have "spun a bearing"
when i'm at idle i hear a chattering sound. more noticeably when I have the A/C on. when I press in the clutch it the chattering subsides. i turn the A/C off and there is no chattering. I checked the fan and its alright, no sounds and it turns on. I'm near 60K and haven't had a valve adjustment since 30K. I have an ACT XTSS clutch/ pressure plate installed along with an AASCO flywheel.
Please help
Please help
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Re: how do you know if you have "spun a bearing" (4-banging)
If your at idle, your engine is spining at the same RPM with the clutch in or out. It could be your clutch flywheel assembly, or your A/C clutch mechinism. Check to make sure all the tensioners on your AC and or Power Steering are tight.
-Alex
-Alex
#3
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Re: how do you know if you have "spun a bearing" (4-banging)
i'm having the same problem, only mine is more of a "ticking" sound coming from the intake manifold, most noticable when the car is at warm idle.....after a while, it'll go away, but it comes back at idle, and is pretty quiet, but it is noticable
i hope i dont have a spun bearing, i'll have to get it checked out this weekend
i hope i dont have a spun bearing, i'll have to get it checked out this weekend
#4
if you spun a bearing, you'd experience waay more than a slight chattering when your a/c is on. if you spun a bearing, your car would run like *** if it would run at all. it would knock and vibrate herendously, but you wouldn't know for sure until tear it down and inspect the crank/rods.
my wife's honda makes a little squeaky chattering type noise when the a/c is on also. it's in the a/c compressor or around the pulley assembly. it sqeaks, but works in perfect condition.
my wife's honda makes a little squeaky chattering type noise when the a/c is on also. it's in the a/c compressor or around the pulley assembly. it sqeaks, but works in perfect condition.
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Re: how do you know if you have "spun a bearing" (SpoonFedHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpoonFedHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'm having the same problem, only mine is more of a "ticking" sound coming from the intake manifold, most noticable when the car is at warm idle.....after a while, it'll go away, but it comes back at idle, and is pretty quiet, but it is noticable
i hope i dont have a spun bearing, i'll have to get it checked out this weekend </TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have a Sohc? Cause I have the same noise, its happened to 3 or 4 of my friends with sohc's, when the reach 50k+ miles. I've only noticed it on 96+ civic's.
i hope i dont have a spun bearing, i'll have to get it checked out this weekend </TD></TR></TABLE>
Do you have a Sohc? Cause I have the same noise, its happened to 3 or 4 of my friends with sohc's, when the reach 50k+ miles. I've only noticed it on 96+ civic's.
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Re: (B16b2b)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16b2b »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you spun a bearing, you'd experience waay more than a slight chattering when your a/c is on. if you spun a bearing, your car would run like *** if it would run at all. it would knock and vibrate herendously, but you wouldn't know for sure until tear it down and inspect the crank/rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>
whoooh, I hope your right. I do need my valve lash adjusted and I guess I'll have to double check the clutch/ flywheel assembly. The sound is most noticably in the passenger front wheel side so maybe is the clutch assembly.
thanks
whoooh, I hope your right. I do need my valve lash adjusted and I guess I'll have to double check the clutch/ flywheel assembly. The sound is most noticably in the passenger front wheel side so maybe is the clutch assembly.
thanks
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Re: (4-banging)
It could be the main bearing in the trans. I`am having the same problem, and you mention it stops when the clutch is engauged...so does mine and I need a new trans or a rebuiild...It could also be the compressor, that`s not uncommon either...
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Re: (sinister)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It could be the main bearing in the trans. I`am having the same problem, and you mention it stops when the clutch is engauged...so does mine and I need a new trans or a rebuiild...It could also be the compressor, that`s not uncommon either...</TD></TR></TABLE>
a new tranny I hope not. if it is the main bearing is this something that can be fixed and stay fixed or will this keep on happening?
a new tranny I hope not. if it is the main bearing is this something that can be fixed and stay fixed or will this keep on happening?
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Re: (wasjdmchef)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by wasjdmchef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the noise goes away when u push in on the clutch then it might be a throwout bearing. didi u replace it when u changed the clutch??? it might be that problem, but i might be wrong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeap, came with the new clutch and pressure plate.
yeap, came with the new clutch and pressure plate.
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Re: (4-banging)
people who have installed ACT pressure plate on thier 99-00 Si's, did you use the OEM 12pt 8mm (6 total) or did you go with 8 total? I called ACT and they said that six would be fine for the B16 but I'm thinking maybe not with the current dilema. The pressure plate has 8 holes.
got this from the ACT website:
20. What could cause clutch chatter?
Chatter is when the car shudders as the clutch is being engaged. Possible cause may be as follows:
Flywheel has excessive run-out.
Flywheel was not resurfaced or improperly resurfaced before the new clutch was installed.
Damaged or excessively worn CV joints.
Bad U-Joints in drive shaft or U-Joints misaligned.
Excessive backlash in differential.
Excessive driveline angle.
Bad leaf springs, bushings or mounts.
The use of an aggressive clutch disc designed for racing.
Defective pressure plate and/or disc.
Disc has inadequate Marcel (Not enough cushion between the friction facing.).
Oil or grease contamination on clutch facings.
Worn or damaged clutch linkage.
Bent pressure plate assembly and/or disc.
Improperly tuned engine.
Worn or damaged engine mounts or transmission mounts.
got this from the ACT website:
20. What could cause clutch chatter?
Chatter is when the car shudders as the clutch is being engaged. Possible cause may be as follows:
Flywheel has excessive run-out.
Flywheel was not resurfaced or improperly resurfaced before the new clutch was installed.
Damaged or excessively worn CV joints.
Bad U-Joints in drive shaft or U-Joints misaligned.
Excessive backlash in differential.
Excessive driveline angle.
Bad leaf springs, bushings or mounts.
The use of an aggressive clutch disc designed for racing.
Defective pressure plate and/or disc.
Disc has inadequate Marcel (Not enough cushion between the friction facing.).
Oil or grease contamination on clutch facings.
Worn or damaged clutch linkage.
Bent pressure plate assembly and/or disc.
Improperly tuned engine.
Worn or damaged engine mounts or transmission mounts.
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Re: (4-banging)
when your car sounds like you have a bicycle with a can in the tire and a card flappin through it... then you know you have spun a rod bearing.. ive heard it first hand...
if your getting chatter from your clutch its most likely early signs of a bad rod bearing... i havent heard the knock noise in my engine every since I rebuilt it... so I wouldnt drive it as hard if i were you.
if your getting chatter from your clutch its most likely early signs of a bad rod bearing... i havent heard the knock noise in my engine every since I rebuilt it... so I wouldnt drive it as hard if i were you.
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Re: (137)
how do you fix it? am I going to need a new tranny?
this happens only at idle with A/C. highway driving is fine and when I shift every gear engages smoothly.
this happens only at idle with A/C. highway driving is fine and when I shift every gear engages smoothly.
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Re: (bushfreakz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bushfreakz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i heard this noise.. sounded like a beebee in a can type of noise.. turned out to be the upper cat heat shield
</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope not that.
last night i closely inspected the motor and the sound only happens when the A/C is on when the rpms slightly drop. it's definately a chattering noise. I guess my only solution is to drop the tranny and see for myself (keeping my fingers crossed). For the mean time should I change out the tranny fluid? I did this about 12K miles ago.
Heres a response a got from ACT:
"A Release Bearing will make noise while the pedal is depressed to the floor, and the noise will be more like a constant grinding sound only while the pedal is having force put against it. The A/C will slow the engine rpm down and increase the effects of the chattering, so it's not caused from the A/C but more noticeable when it's on.
Sometimes an aftermarket flywheel can cause this type of problem also, or worn motor mounts can sometimes contribute as well. It's always very difficult to try to figure out noise problems without being able to inspect the parts physically.
Thanks,
Dave Patterson
Customer Service / Returns"
</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope not that.
last night i closely inspected the motor and the sound only happens when the A/C is on when the rpms slightly drop. it's definately a chattering noise. I guess my only solution is to drop the tranny and see for myself (keeping my fingers crossed). For the mean time should I change out the tranny fluid? I did this about 12K miles ago.
Heres a response a got from ACT:
"A Release Bearing will make noise while the pedal is depressed to the floor, and the noise will be more like a constant grinding sound only while the pedal is having force put against it. The A/C will slow the engine rpm down and increase the effects of the chattering, so it's not caused from the A/C but more noticeable when it's on.
Sometimes an aftermarket flywheel can cause this type of problem also, or worn motor mounts can sometimes contribute as well. It's always very difficult to try to figure out noise problems without being able to inspect the parts physically.
Thanks,
Dave Patterson
Customer Service / Returns"
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