stripes777

I'm doing a full teg set up all around and im almost finished. When i tried to take the PP last night, the brake lines wouldnt budge. i have a flare wrench, but it just strips it. i ended up using a vice grip to loosen 2 of the 6 lines on the PP. After that i went to kragen to buy some PB blaster, but i dont know if that works in this situation.

Anyone have any pointers of how to remove the damn thing. the space to work back there is so small. I think my last resort would be just to bleed the lines, fix the ebrake, make it drivable and take it to a mechanic. i really dont want to do that since i did all the work myself and it would taint my self work on this project, haha.

help please, thanks

sohcvtec1995

with my expereiances a regular wrench will work better then the flare wrench.. soak it with some pb blaster ango from there..

94EG8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohcvtec1995 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with my expereiances a regular wrench will work better then the flare wrench.. soak it with some pb blaster ango from there..</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please explain that one to me, you can only get the open end of a combination wrench on there. Flare nut wrenches are specifically designed for doing things like brake lines, they grab on 5 sides instead of two.

sohcvtec1995

use the open end..

stripes777

my flare wrench strips the brake lines. i sprayed pb blaster before i stopped working on the car last night and didnt have time to try again today. ill give it a shot tomorrow.

i got 2 of the 6 lines loose, i used a vice grip and used A LOT of might to budge it loose. its impossble to use the vice on the other 4 lines due to space limitation... so close with the full brake suspension project..

stripes777

i tried again and those things are seized on tight. i just used the stock PP and may decide to bring it to a shop and have them swap it out for me. thanks guys.

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

When I did mine, it was a huge PITA. Flared nut wrench will just keep stripping it because they put this yellow locktite stuff on the threads from the factory. Break the nuts using a small vice grip and use a wrench (or flared nut wrench) to loosen the nut. Yes, space is very limited. Took me and a friend two hours to change it because of the space and the threads are fine, so you need to have the brake line lined up straight before it threads on.

stripes777

its such a PITA. i put it back and everything, full suspension is complete. new teg brakes all corners, new shocks, and springs! ill prob bring it to a shop and have them swap out the PP, hope they dont charge too much. went for a test run today and need an alignment bad, my "alignment" eye isnt as good as i thought, haha.

I;m going to make a thread for people who want to do this stuff themselves, there are lot of hidden costs some peopel might not know about on suspension projects and i think it would be helpful they know the total real costs before attempting a suspension upgrade. thanks guys for the input.

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

Yup, I put new rotors, pads, and balljoints when I had the knuckles off. New bearings are good too.

94EG8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stripes777 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there are lot of hidden costs some peopel might not know about on suspension projects and i think it would be helpful they know the total real costs before attempting a suspension upgrade.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You're right about that, you learn real quick that honda suspension bolts are worth their weight in gold, same thing with OEM suspension bushings.

sorrule

when i did my prop valve i soaked it with PB blaster for like a day then used a flare wrench to loosen them. For the more stubborn ones I tapped the end of the wrench with my palm or with a hammer slightly to break it loose. Didn't strip on me at all.