how do I prevent...
#1
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how do I prevent...
HONDA RUST!!
Okay so just woundering or like to know....love Honda, but hate the rust...anyways just woundering so if I took off my honda trim, under my fender walls and rear wheel walls will it help me stay rust free a bit longer or does it not matter? Because I own a 95 civic and like all honda the rear quater panel like to rust up and it can look pretty nasty. This I know because I use to own one that had the nasty rust . Now I want to know how to prevent it because it does cost a lot more to fix it than to prevent it from happening or at least happen sooner. One thing for sure is I will have to go get the under of my car re-spray as soon as winter is over. Should have done that before winter (kicking self in butt). But I know it also depends on where you live as well. I live in WI and when it snows, it does snow pretty bad during the winter time so...and it's not all just the snow it's the salt and the snow that does it....so anyone knows/opinions on what I should do?TIA
LOVE the Honda, just want to keep it clean forever
Okay so just woundering or like to know....love Honda, but hate the rust...anyways just woundering so if I took off my honda trim, under my fender walls and rear wheel walls will it help me stay rust free a bit longer or does it not matter? Because I own a 95 civic and like all honda the rear quater panel like to rust up and it can look pretty nasty. This I know because I use to own one that had the nasty rust . Now I want to know how to prevent it because it does cost a lot more to fix it than to prevent it from happening or at least happen sooner. One thing for sure is I will have to go get the under of my car re-spray as soon as winter is over. Should have done that before winter (kicking self in butt). But I know it also depends on where you live as well. I live in WI and when it snows, it does snow pretty bad during the winter time so...and it's not all just the snow it's the salt and the snow that does it....so anyone knows/opinions on what I should do?TIA
LOVE the Honda, just want to keep it clean forever
#3
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Attach zinc blocks to the body... You will need multiple blocks, in multiple locations...all with clean, excellent contact to the panels. They must also be exposed to the environment.
Zn is the easiest element to oxidize, therefore, it will do so much easier than iron will - eliminating body rust (once you fix it).
You will have to clean the zinc off, now and then, and replace it once in a while.
[Basic oxidation chemistry]
Or...you can slather on rust prevention coatings...
Zn is the easiest element to oxidize, therefore, it will do so much easier than iron will - eliminating body rust (once you fix it).
You will have to clean the zinc off, now and then, and replace it once in a while.
[Basic oxidation chemistry]
Or...you can slather on rust prevention coatings...
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Re: (pdiggitydogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Attach zinc blocks to the body... You will need multiple blocks, in multiple locations...all with clean, excellent contact to the panels. They must also be exposed to the environment.
Zn is the easiest element to oxidize, therefore, it will do so much easier than iron will - eliminating body rust (once you fix it).
You will have to clean the zinc off, now and then, and replace it once in a while.
[Basic oxidation chemistry]
Or...you can slather on rust prevention coatings...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you, fellow boater
Zn is the easiest element to oxidize, therefore, it will do so much easier than iron will - eliminating body rust (once you fix it).
You will have to clean the zinc off, now and then, and replace it once in a while.
[Basic oxidation chemistry]
Or...you can slather on rust prevention coatings...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you, fellow boater
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Re: (pdiggitydogg)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not a boater...I kinda hate the water...
Science major ftw</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL, same difference
Science major ftw</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL, same difference
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Re: (pdiggitydogg)
okay so if I read and understand that right...Now I didn't do so well in chemistry class but only enough to pass...But can I even get my hands on some znic blocks? Like where? So I attached the znic using something to stick it to my rust area once fixed and it'll eliminate rust from coming back or rust from happing? very interesting ...give me more details.....
Reason is the ride is in mint to like new conditon and today I steped outside and saw the small rust area starting. Which isn't good . I was thinking about them "bullet rust" or whatver it was called stuff but haven't looked at it to know how to use it and what not. So how do I fix/treat the little rust i have that's starting? Do I have to sand/take paint off from area spray/treat it then re-paint? Hate that it'll mess up the clean paint job, damn
So should I take off the rubber/plastic trim under the fender walls and rear wheel walls? Cuz I see that the snow/salt is getting in there and is just sitting in between the two. Anyways keep them coming and TIA
Reason is the ride is in mint to like new conditon and today I steped outside and saw the small rust area starting. Which isn't good . I was thinking about them "bullet rust" or whatver it was called stuff but haven't looked at it to know how to use it and what not. So how do I fix/treat the little rust i have that's starting? Do I have to sand/take paint off from area spray/treat it then re-paint? Hate that it'll mess up the clean paint job, damn
So should I take off the rubber/plastic trim under the fender walls and rear wheel walls? Cuz I see that the snow/salt is getting in there and is just sitting in between the two. Anyways keep them coming and TIA
#9
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Any boating supply shop should sell zinc blocks (if not locally, you can buy them online).
Theyre not that expensive, really...
Zinc works as a "sacrificial" material, and oxidizes ("rusts") in place of the iron, in the body/chassis - which is why you would have to replace it, eventually.
Do a search on 'boating and zinc', 'zinc anode', or 'sacrificial zinc' and you should get a good idea of how it works.
In solution (the salty road water), zinc, being lower on the table, acts as the anode, the iron in the car, as the cathode.
Cathodes are reduced, gaining electrons.
Anodes are oxidized, losing electrons.
Losing electrons means losing material = deterioration.
It will prevent iron oxide formation, by instead producing zinc oxide.
Several coatings/preventers have zinc in them, and that is why they work.
Theyre not that expensive, really...
Zinc works as a "sacrificial" material, and oxidizes ("rusts") in place of the iron, in the body/chassis - which is why you would have to replace it, eventually.
Do a search on 'boating and zinc', 'zinc anode', or 'sacrificial zinc' and you should get a good idea of how it works.
In solution (the salty road water), zinc, being lower on the table, acts as the anode, the iron in the car, as the cathode.
Cathodes are reduced, gaining electrons.
Anodes are oxidized, losing electrons.
Losing electrons means losing material = deterioration.
It will prevent iron oxide formation, by instead producing zinc oxide.
Several coatings/preventers have zinc in them, and that is why they work.
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(fmrprojects) yeah people told me that already, oh well...
Anways thanks (pdiggitydogg) I'll look more into that...
anyone who knows anything else let me know...TIA
Anways thanks (pdiggitydogg) I'll look more into that...
anyone who knows anything else let me know...TIA
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Re: (fmrprojects)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">little bit off topic but your username is wrong. it should be JDMejCoupe</TD></TR></TABLE>
beat me too it
beat me too it
#13
be professional
Re: how do I prevent... (JDMegCoupe)
The only cost-effective way to prevent major widespread chassis rust is to never drive the car on a salted road.
Any other suggestions will only delay rusting - they will not prevent it.
You live in Wisconsin. Your car is going to eventually rust no matter what, if it's been driven in the winter. If you want a completely rust-free chassis and you want it to last, your only option is to buy a car from a southern state, outside of the rust-belt - then store the car as soon as the first snow hits in the fall/winter, and don't bring it out again until the spring rain washes all of the salt off the road.
If you don't like it, move south.
Any other suggestions will only delay rusting - they will not prevent it.
You live in Wisconsin. Your car is going to eventually rust no matter what, if it's been driven in the winter. If you want a completely rust-free chassis and you want it to last, your only option is to buy a car from a southern state, outside of the rust-belt - then store the car as soon as the first snow hits in the fall/winter, and don't bring it out again until the spring rain washes all of the salt off the road.
If you don't like it, move south.
#15
Re: (JDMegCoupe)
The way that these cars rust is from the inside out. Yes the rubber strip on the inner fender lip will hold salt and begin to corrode. But when you see the rust begun, it starts with a small bubble in the paint, usually behind the wheel opening.
Here's a copy/paste from the link in my sig:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMegCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Many of the civics, especially the older models, have the common rust around the rear wheel well. Many of these rusty civics are located in the north and driven through the winters. There are a couple reasons so many civics are rusting.
First is the condensation that forms on the inside of the car. Think of a glass of ice water sitting outside on a warm summer day. Condensation is going to form on the outside of the glass because it is so warm. I've even seen condensation form on the outside of house windows on a hot humid summer day when the air conditioner is on inside. Same concept with your car. When it is cold and snowy outside, you have the heat cranked up inside your car. This creates condensation, in addition you create more moisture when you are breathing and when you get in your car with snow on your shoes which melts and then evaporates. Cars have vents near the rear to help keep the air flow going through the vehicle, however that is not enough in the civic's case. Also the civic only has this vent on the drivers side below the tail light, not like many vehicles that have them on both sides and even in the door jambs sometimes. This creates condensation build up on the inside of your rear quarter panels. It drips down and collects around the inside of the wheel well. This is how the rust begins where the rear bumper meets the wheel well, the rust starts inside and eats its way through, until you see a tiny bubble or two form on the outside of your fender's paint. Condensation also drips down the front of the wheel well and sits in the inner rocker panel area. Fortunately, the inner rocker panel space has drain holes in the bottom but can still rust. This area is behind the plastic side skirts so you usually wouldn't know if there is rust.
Second cause of rust is the rubber strip honda puts on the inner fender lip. People rip these off and throw them away because they retain water and road salt. These rubber strips also prevent rock chips which can lead to rust. So instead of taking them off and throwing them away, clean the whole area and inside of the strip & let everything dry, apply body sealer, silicone or similar calk to the inside of the strip and put it back on. Now you have protection from rock strips, and you're keeping the moisture out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Here's a copy/paste from the link in my sig:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMegCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Many of the civics, especially the older models, have the common rust around the rear wheel well. Many of these rusty civics are located in the north and driven through the winters. There are a couple reasons so many civics are rusting.
First is the condensation that forms on the inside of the car. Think of a glass of ice water sitting outside on a warm summer day. Condensation is going to form on the outside of the glass because it is so warm. I've even seen condensation form on the outside of house windows on a hot humid summer day when the air conditioner is on inside. Same concept with your car. When it is cold and snowy outside, you have the heat cranked up inside your car. This creates condensation, in addition you create more moisture when you are breathing and when you get in your car with snow on your shoes which melts and then evaporates. Cars have vents near the rear to help keep the air flow going through the vehicle, however that is not enough in the civic's case. Also the civic only has this vent on the drivers side below the tail light, not like many vehicles that have them on both sides and even in the door jambs sometimes. This creates condensation build up on the inside of your rear quarter panels. It drips down and collects around the inside of the wheel well. This is how the rust begins where the rear bumper meets the wheel well, the rust starts inside and eats its way through, until you see a tiny bubble or two form on the outside of your fender's paint. Condensation also drips down the front of the wheel well and sits in the inner rocker panel area. Fortunately, the inner rocker panel space has drain holes in the bottom but can still rust. This area is behind the plastic side skirts so you usually wouldn't know if there is rust.
Second cause of rust is the rubber strip honda puts on the inner fender lip. People rip these off and throw them away because they retain water and road salt. These rubber strips also prevent rock chips which can lead to rust. So instead of taking them off and throwing them away, clean the whole area and inside of the strip & let everything dry, apply body sealer, silicone or similar calk to the inside of the strip and put it back on. Now you have protection from rock strips, and you're keeping the moisture out. </TD></TR></TABLE>
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Do what I did. Cut out a piece of a fucked up hood and have the piece over the wheel well cut out and have it welded in. Then flatten it and sand it and paint it. Any bodyshop can do it. It's think and double sided paint - it won't rust.
The reason you have rust is because the other side is virgin (not painted or anything, just pure metal).
The reason you have rust is because the other side is virgin (not painted or anything, just pure metal).
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Re: how do I prevent... (Targa250R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only cost-effective way to prevent major widespread chassis rust is to never drive the car on a salted road.
Any other suggestions will only delay rusting - they will not prevent it.
You live in Wisconsin. Your car is going to eventually rust no matter what, if it's been driven in the winter. If you want a completely rust-free chassis and you want it to last, your only option is to buy a car from a southern state, outside of the rust-belt - then store the car as soon as the first snow hits in the fall/winter, and don't bring it out again until the spring rain washes all of the salt off the road.
If you don't like it, move south.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed 100%.
I'm from upstate NY so I hear ya...
Any other suggestions will only delay rusting - they will not prevent it.
You live in Wisconsin. Your car is going to eventually rust no matter what, if it's been driven in the winter. If you want a completely rust-free chassis and you want it to last, your only option is to buy a car from a southern state, outside of the rust-belt - then store the car as soon as the first snow hits in the fall/winter, and don't bring it out again until the spring rain washes all of the salt off the road.
If you don't like it, move south.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed 100%.
I'm from upstate NY so I hear ya...
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Re: (Syndacate)
well since I can't move, only way is to look for a 2nd car. Which I'm doing right now, though I freaken should've kept my old '93 civic which I sold
Well I guess all I can do right now (after the snow) is to somehow treat the "tiny bubble or two form on the outside of your fender's paint" which I did see and will have it treated/fix mysefl or body shop and get a thick under coating of rust protection AND GET MYSELF A BEATER w/ HEATER!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The reason you have rust is because the other side is virgin (not painted or anything, just pure metal).</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll agree to that cuz I took my fender out before and other side's just metal/ not painted!
Well I guess all I can do right now (after the snow) is to somehow treat the "tiny bubble or two form on the outside of your fender's paint" which I did see and will have it treated/fix mysefl or body shop and get a thick under coating of rust protection AND GET MYSELF A BEATER w/ HEATER!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The reason you have rust is because the other side is virgin (not painted or anything, just pure metal).</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'll agree to that cuz I took my fender out before and other side's just metal/ not painted!
#22
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Re: (i heart Vans)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by i heart Vans »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would rinsing it down after driving it home say from work help slow it down by washing the salt off? or would it just make it worse..</TD></TR></TABLE>
It helps delay rust on major body panels (provided you park in a heated indoor garage where water can dry off rather than freezing inside cracks and expanding), but hosing all salt off after every trip is unfeasible and damn near impossible. It's not time or cost effective, hence the reason most people choose to store certain cars for winter in the rust belt.
Even with constant washings, salt water still lays in crevices in the undercarriage and rusts bolts and bushings.
It helps delay rust on major body panels (provided you park in a heated indoor garage where water can dry off rather than freezing inside cracks and expanding), but hosing all salt off after every trip is unfeasible and damn near impossible. It's not time or cost effective, hence the reason most people choose to store certain cars for winter in the rust belt.
Even with constant washings, salt water still lays in crevices in the undercarriage and rusts bolts and bushings.
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Re: (Targa250R)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Even with constant washings, salt water still lays in crevices in the undercarriage and rusts bolts and bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I guess come spring/summer fix the little rust and store it during the winter! And look for a beater. Cuz got big plans for the civic and plan to keep it as clean as I can forever, even got her some Recaros can't wait to put in in this spring/summer
^ yeah that's why I have no beater, bought the Recaros
Even with constant washings, salt water still lays in crevices in the undercarriage and rusts bolts and bushings.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well I guess come spring/summer fix the little rust and store it during the winter! And look for a beater. Cuz got big plans for the civic and plan to keep it as clean as I can forever, even got her some Recaros can't wait to put in in this spring/summer
^ yeah that's why I have no beater, bought the Recaros
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so what do ppl do up north? does EVERYONE have a 2nd car and use that 2nd car as a DD in the winter and let it rust up? glad i don't have to deal w/ all that
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no, we dont all have a winter beater, but i wish i did, cars from up north are almost garanteed(sp) to have rust on them, unless they get stored during winter, most Honda's have the typical rearwell rust on them, i had a 97 and that didnt have any that i could see, but it had 75k and only driven about 4 miles a day, my 96 hatch has 140k on it and had some rust on it, i didnt think it was bad at all untill i started to sand it down and found at least a quarter size hole/weak spot on there, so pretty much your going to get rust, unless you store it over winter when you live up north, you just have to learn to deal with it!
Modified by Boo_JDM_EK_wanabe at 11:34 PM 1/24/2007
Modified by Boo_JDM_EK_wanabe at 11:34 PM 1/24/2007