how to do a h22a civic swap
05-25-2003, 08:18 PM
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Re: how to do a h22a civic swap (SleeperNine)
Get the a back issue of SPORT COMPACT CAR magazine.September, 2001,Volume 13,NO.09 . This issue has a full layout of the swap and it will help you out greatly.I know i used it ALOT! when i did my H22a civic swap,and it turned out great. 
05-26-2003, 05:13 AM
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Re: how to do a h22a civic swap (jdmh22bubble)
i have no idea where i can get a copy of that, is there a web site that tells how to do it or something thats good that i can get off the internet?
05-26-2003, 06:36 AM
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Re: how to do a h22a civic swap (SleeperNine)
https://honda-tech.com/zerothre...57223
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=362984
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=434668
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=397433
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=394729
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=436505
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=449155
http://www.h22hybrid.20m.com/index.html
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=486216
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=474330
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=432679
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=492849
I think that has just about every question about a H22 civic anwsered. Except tire pressure, that should be 32psi.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=362984
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=434668
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=397433
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=394729
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=436505
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=449155
http://www.h22hybrid.20m.com/index.html
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=486216
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=474330
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=432679
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=492849
I think that has just about every question about a H22 civic anwsered. Except tire pressure, that should be 32psi.
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05-26-2003, 06:47 AM
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Re: how to do a h22a civic swap (pdiggitydogg)
First things first. Buy a Helms manual for both the 5th gen Accord and the 4th gen Prelude. This article assumes you have a Helms manual. Read through this article and get all the parts you will need beforehand, this will be a pain in the *** if you don't know what you will need because of the lack of consistent info on this swap-or blantant misinformation from kids who had a shop do it, but like to speculate and give advice as to the hows and whys without knowing what they are talking about. Hopefully this little piece will help.
I) PARTS LIST:
plug wires and plugs
valve cover gasket
plug grommets
valve cover bolt grommets
cam seals
oil pan and gasket
H22 drivers side motor mount
H22 throttle cable and bracket
H22 PS line
IAT sensor
H22 Clutch (the Accord clutch will work temporarily if need be)
PS, AC, and Alternator belts
H22 MAP sensor, brackets, vaccum hose and evap canister
II) PARTS COMPATIBILITY DETAILS:
Mounts: This motor basically bolts in using the all the Accord mounts except for the drivers side mount. A Prelude mount must be used, and the metal bushing that holds the bolt mounting it to the frame must be shaved down slightly to fit between the brackets on the frame, you will see when you do it.
Axles: Use the Accord axles and intermediate shaft.
PS Line: You will need the PS line from both the Accord and the Prelude, and have the Accord lower half (that connects to the rack) spliced with the Prelude upper half (that connects to the PS pump.) Fitting shops can do this, it costs around $60. Make sure you get it long enough.
PS pump and bracket: Prelude pump and bracket
A/C compressor and bracket: Accord compressor, with either bracket
Alternator and bracket: Accord alternator, and Prelude bracket
Belts: Depending on which accessory pumps you use (Prelude or Accord) the belts may be different length. For example the pully on the Prelude's A/C compressor is a lot smaller than the one on the Accord. Basically, just get your stuff mounted up and measure the length of the needed belt, and take yourself to NAPA. We ended up using the stock length Prelude PS belt, and a 43" belt for the Accord A/C compressor and Alternator on the Prelude.
Hoses: Use the upper and lower radiator hoses off the Prelude, as well as the drivers side heater hose, that goes to the back of the block. You may also need to pick up some vaccum hose, as some of the solenoids, valves etc. are going to be in different places. Consult the vaccum hose diagram in the Prelude manual for more details here, it's pretty self explanitory.
MAP Sensor: You will need the MAP sensor off a Prelude, as the Accord MAP is mounted on the throttle body, but the Prelude has it mounted on the firewall. May as well pick up the bracket with the 3 hard lines for the vaccum hoses that also attaches to the firewall (See vacuum hose diagram.) We also got the Prelude EVAP canister, as it has 3 vaccum lines and the Accord has 2, just to avoid confusion. If you don't care about money, get it from Honda. (Remember small items fit easily in pockets!)
Exhaust: The combination of the Prelude header and the Accord cat/exhaust did not work. The Accord cat is too long. If the engine did not have a cat attatched, use an H22A cat
Shift linkage and clutch linkage: Accord
Throttle cable: Use the Prelude throttle cable and bracket. Someone with a small bit of creativity could get cruise to work, by fashioning a bracket to hold both cables properly and shortening the cruise cable and attaching it to the throttle pulley. We don’t recommend this.
*NOTE: The Accord throttle cable attaches to the pedal differently than the Prelude. There is a gap that the cable can come off using the Prelude cable, just use your head and secure it in place. There is more than one way to do this, you will see.
Harness and ECU: Use the Accord harness, and ECU for the H22 (obviously.) Unless your car was an EX the harness must be modified or a harness from an F22B1 used.
*****WIRING (if your car is originally non-VTEC and you dont want to use the F22B1 harness):
Now to clear things up, many people emailed me saying to use the Accord harness and just add the VTEC pressure, VTEC solenoid, Knock Sensor, and Intake Air Bypass wires and you are set. Similar to a B series EG swap, easy right? Well, the truth is actually much, much darker...
First of all, about half of the wires for the sensors have to be relocated/lengthened. This is difficult going into the whole thing blind, and you will spend a significant amount of time cross referencing wiring diagrams in you Helms. I will spare you that pain. Also avoid "mickey-mousing" it, buy some flex tube and tape so you can give the illusion that the wiring was not done by a drunken blind man.
Also, and I can't stress this enough, CHECK YOUR GROUNDS. They are the cause and solution to all of lifes problems!
*Wires to add:
VTEC Solenoid: Grn/Yel on Prelude harness > Pin A4 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
VTEC Pressure Switch: Lt Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D6 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
Blk/Red > Ground
IAB: Pink on Prelude harness > Pin A17 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Drivers side of intake manifold
Blk/Yel > 12V
Knock Sensor: Red/Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D3 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Middle back of block
*Sensors to lengthen:
(NOTE: Consult the helms for the location of sensors, and color code of the wires on your harness.) Colors below are for the Accord LX harness.
IAT (GRN/BLU-RED/YEL): Too short, needs to reach drivers side of intake manifold.
MAP (YEL/WHT-GRN/WHT-WHT/YEL): Too short, needs to reach wherever on the firewall you mount the MAP sensor.
EGR Lift solenoid (GRN/BLU-WHT/BLK-YEL/BLU): Too short, needs to reach passengers side of intake manifold.
H02s (GRN/BLU-WHT/RED-ORN/BLK-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to be run to O2 sensor, near oil filter.
IAC valve (BLK/BLU-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to reach top of intake runners, in the middle.
ECT switch A: This will need to be extended to the thermostat housing on the passengers side of the back of the head. The ECT sensor and ECT sending unit fit fine (under the distributor.)
*NOTE: There is no ECT switch B on the JDM H22, just spare back the connector.
Alternator: The power wire on the alternator needs to be lengthened about 2". We just cut the one off the Prelude harness, and attached it to the Accord harness with a large enough splice.
*NOTE: SWITCH WIRES A6 (EGR solenoid) and A11 (H02S heater) at the ECU
When you think you have everything wired up correctly, plug in the brick and turn the key. Have a multimeter ready to troublshoot if you throw codes. Remember, some of the sensors may be bad so don't run yourself into a wall thinking you wired wrong. (Although you may have.)
*****HOW TO:
Remove the stock motor, follow the steps in the Helms if you haven't done this before. I will assume you have a hoist. Take care removing the axles, pull them straight out of the tranny to avoid damaging the seal. It makes life easier if you remove the radiator also, as the motor/tranny must be cocked to get the tranny past the passengers side mount. Having the radiator out just gives you more mobility, and it takes about 10 seconds to remove. While you are at it you may as well remove the subframe that the trailing radius rods and front mount connect to (about 5 seconds) for even more space. Double check that everything is disconnected and hoist the motor out, this is easier with two people one pivoting the motor and watching for clearance in the back, and the other running the hoist.
Have the H22 ready to go (wiring especially) before you put it in. Drop the sucker in the opposite of how you took the F22 out, lining up the mounts etc. The H22 seems to lean back in the engine compartment, don't panic-it's normal. I am not going into too much detail here, you know what you are doing if you bought the Helms. Grind down the Prelude drivers mount, like I mentioned earlier. (Just enough to get the metal bushing to fit between the frame brackets.)
Mount your map sensor, vaccum hard lines, and EVAP canister on the firewall and consult the vaccum hose diagram on how everything interconnects. You will have two hoses to cap off on the tranny, where the power steering speed sensor connects (passengers side). Usually these would go to the Prelude rack, but since there is no matching connection on the Accord rack, they are useless.
DOUBLE CHECK ALL YOUR WIRING AND HOSES! Hook up the Prelude throttle cable, as well as your intake and header of choice, noticing that your car is going to be extremely loud driving it to the muffler shop. Finish putting everything back together, AGAIN I am assuming you have a helms so you know the steps!
Make sure you have all the fluids replaced, and everything torqued. Finish putting everything back in, and clean that dirty little motor, you should have done it before, but you were too lazy too and wnated to get it in too baldy anyhow. Stand back and adjust yourself, so on lookers think you had it all locked down from the beginning.
That's all folks. Now get off of H-T and drive your car, she deserves it. . .
[written by someone, forgot who.]
I) PARTS LIST:
plug wires and plugs
valve cover gasket
plug grommets
valve cover bolt grommets
cam seals
oil pan and gasket
H22 drivers side motor mount
H22 throttle cable and bracket
H22 PS line
IAT sensor
H22 Clutch (the Accord clutch will work temporarily if need be)
PS, AC, and Alternator belts
H22 MAP sensor, brackets, vaccum hose and evap canister
II) PARTS COMPATIBILITY DETAILS:
Mounts: This motor basically bolts in using the all the Accord mounts except for the drivers side mount. A Prelude mount must be used, and the metal bushing that holds the bolt mounting it to the frame must be shaved down slightly to fit between the brackets on the frame, you will see when you do it.
Axles: Use the Accord axles and intermediate shaft.
PS Line: You will need the PS line from both the Accord and the Prelude, and have the Accord lower half (that connects to the rack) spliced with the Prelude upper half (that connects to the PS pump.) Fitting shops can do this, it costs around $60. Make sure you get it long enough.
PS pump and bracket: Prelude pump and bracket
A/C compressor and bracket: Accord compressor, with either bracket
Alternator and bracket: Accord alternator, and Prelude bracket
Belts: Depending on which accessory pumps you use (Prelude or Accord) the belts may be different length. For example the pully on the Prelude's A/C compressor is a lot smaller than the one on the Accord. Basically, just get your stuff mounted up and measure the length of the needed belt, and take yourself to NAPA. We ended up using the stock length Prelude PS belt, and a 43" belt for the Accord A/C compressor and Alternator on the Prelude.
Hoses: Use the upper and lower radiator hoses off the Prelude, as well as the drivers side heater hose, that goes to the back of the block. You may also need to pick up some vaccum hose, as some of the solenoids, valves etc. are going to be in different places. Consult the vaccum hose diagram in the Prelude manual for more details here, it's pretty self explanitory.
MAP Sensor: You will need the MAP sensor off a Prelude, as the Accord MAP is mounted on the throttle body, but the Prelude has it mounted on the firewall. May as well pick up the bracket with the 3 hard lines for the vaccum hoses that also attaches to the firewall (See vacuum hose diagram.) We also got the Prelude EVAP canister, as it has 3 vaccum lines and the Accord has 2, just to avoid confusion. If you don't care about money, get it from Honda. (Remember small items fit easily in pockets!)
Exhaust: The combination of the Prelude header and the Accord cat/exhaust did not work. The Accord cat is too long. If the engine did not have a cat attatched, use an H22A cat
Shift linkage and clutch linkage: Accord
Throttle cable: Use the Prelude throttle cable and bracket. Someone with a small bit of creativity could get cruise to work, by fashioning a bracket to hold both cables properly and shortening the cruise cable and attaching it to the throttle pulley. We don’t recommend this.
*NOTE: The Accord throttle cable attaches to the pedal differently than the Prelude. There is a gap that the cable can come off using the Prelude cable, just use your head and secure it in place. There is more than one way to do this, you will see.
Harness and ECU: Use the Accord harness, and ECU for the H22 (obviously.) Unless your car was an EX the harness must be modified or a harness from an F22B1 used.
*****WIRING (if your car is originally non-VTEC and you dont want to use the F22B1 harness):
Now to clear things up, many people emailed me saying to use the Accord harness and just add the VTEC pressure, VTEC solenoid, Knock Sensor, and Intake Air Bypass wires and you are set. Similar to a B series EG swap, easy right? Well, the truth is actually much, much darker...
First of all, about half of the wires for the sensors have to be relocated/lengthened. This is difficult going into the whole thing blind, and you will spend a significant amount of time cross referencing wiring diagrams in you Helms. I will spare you that pain. Also avoid "mickey-mousing" it, buy some flex tube and tape so you can give the illusion that the wiring was not done by a drunken blind man.
Also, and I can't stress this enough, CHECK YOUR GROUNDS. They are the cause and solution to all of lifes problems!
*Wires to add:
VTEC Solenoid: Grn/Yel on Prelude harness > Pin A4 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
VTEC Pressure Switch: Lt Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D6 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
Blk/Red > Ground
IAB: Pink on Prelude harness > Pin A17 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Drivers side of intake manifold
Blk/Yel > 12V
Knock Sensor: Red/Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D3 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Middle back of block
*Sensors to lengthen:
(NOTE: Consult the helms for the location of sensors, and color code of the wires on your harness.) Colors below are for the Accord LX harness.
IAT (GRN/BLU-RED/YEL): Too short, needs to reach drivers side of intake manifold.
MAP (YEL/WHT-GRN/WHT-WHT/YEL): Too short, needs to reach wherever on the firewall you mount the MAP sensor.
EGR Lift solenoid (GRN/BLU-WHT/BLK-YEL/BLU): Too short, needs to reach passengers side of intake manifold.
H02s (GRN/BLU-WHT/RED-ORN/BLK-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to be run to O2 sensor, near oil filter.
IAC valve (BLK/BLU-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to reach top of intake runners, in the middle.
ECT switch A: This will need to be extended to the thermostat housing on the passengers side of the back of the head. The ECT sensor and ECT sending unit fit fine (under the distributor.)
*NOTE: There is no ECT switch B on the JDM H22, just spare back the connector.
Alternator: The power wire on the alternator needs to be lengthened about 2". We just cut the one off the Prelude harness, and attached it to the Accord harness with a large enough splice.
*NOTE: SWITCH WIRES A6 (EGR solenoid) and A11 (H02S heater) at the ECU
When you think you have everything wired up correctly, plug in the brick and turn the key. Have a multimeter ready to troublshoot if you throw codes. Remember, some of the sensors may be bad so don't run yourself into a wall thinking you wired wrong. (Although you may have.)
*****HOW TO:
Remove the stock motor, follow the steps in the Helms if you haven't done this before. I will assume you have a hoist. Take care removing the axles, pull them straight out of the tranny to avoid damaging the seal. It makes life easier if you remove the radiator also, as the motor/tranny must be cocked to get the tranny past the passengers side mount. Having the radiator out just gives you more mobility, and it takes about 10 seconds to remove. While you are at it you may as well remove the subframe that the trailing radius rods and front mount connect to (about 5 seconds) for even more space. Double check that everything is disconnected and hoist the motor out, this is easier with two people one pivoting the motor and watching for clearance in the back, and the other running the hoist.
Have the H22 ready to go (wiring especially) before you put it in. Drop the sucker in the opposite of how you took the F22 out, lining up the mounts etc. The H22 seems to lean back in the engine compartment, don't panic-it's normal. I am not going into too much detail here, you know what you are doing if you bought the Helms. Grind down the Prelude drivers mount, like I mentioned earlier. (Just enough to get the metal bushing to fit between the frame brackets.)
Mount your map sensor, vaccum hard lines, and EVAP canister on the firewall and consult the vaccum hose diagram on how everything interconnects. You will have two hoses to cap off on the tranny, where the power steering speed sensor connects (passengers side). Usually these would go to the Prelude rack, but since there is no matching connection on the Accord rack, they are useless.
DOUBLE CHECK ALL YOUR WIRING AND HOSES! Hook up the Prelude throttle cable, as well as your intake and header of choice, noticing that your car is going to be extremely loud driving it to the muffler shop. Finish putting everything back together, AGAIN I am assuming you have a helms so you know the steps!
Make sure you have all the fluids replaced, and everything torqued. Finish putting everything back in, and clean that dirty little motor, you should have done it before, but you were too lazy too and wnated to get it in too baldy anyhow. Stand back and adjust yourself, so on lookers think you had it all locked down from the beginning.
That's all folks. Now get off of H-T and drive your car, she deserves it. . .
[written by someone, forgot who.]
05-26-2003, 07:53 AM
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Re: how to do a h22a civic swap (junglerunna02)
do you not read mags bro, by the back issues of sport compact car, and honda tunning, they have about everything you need to know
05-26-2003, 07:54 AM
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Re: how to do a h22a civic swap (junglerunna02)
05-26-2003, 08:04 AM
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Re: how to do a h22a civic swap (Eibach95Civic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eibach95Civic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you not read mags bro, by the back issues of sport compact car, and honda tunning, they have about everything you need to know</TD></TR></TABLE>
Considering they come out every month, I guess there was a possibilty I missed those specific issues you just sayed. Oh wait you didnt say what month/issue so thanks anyways for nothing.
Considering they come out every month, I guess there was a possibilty I missed those specific issues you just sayed. Oh wait you didnt say what month/issue so thanks anyways for nothing.
05-26-2003, 08:26 AM
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Re: how to do a h22a civic swap (jin_)
Originally Posted by jin_
First things first. Buy a Helms manual for both the 5th gen Accord and the 4th gen Prelude. This article assumes you have a Helms manual. Read through this article and get all the parts you will need beforehand, this will be a pain in the *** if you don't know what you will need because of the lack of consistent info on this swap-or blantant misinformation from kids who had a shop do it, but like to speculate and give advice as to the hows and whys without knowing what they are talking about. Hopefully this little piece will help.
I) PARTS LIST:
plug wires and plugs
valve cover gasket
plug grommets
valve cover bolt grommets
cam seals
oil pan and gasket
H22 drivers side motor mount
H22 throttle cable and bracket
H22 PS line
IAT sensor
H22 Clutch (the Accord clutch will work temporarily if need be)
PS, AC, and Alternator belts
H22 MAP sensor, brackets, vaccum hose and evap canister
II) PARTS COMPATIBILITY DETAILS:
Mounts: This motor basically bolts in using the all the Accord mounts except for the drivers side mount. A Prelude mount must be used, and the metal bushing that holds the bolt mounting it to the frame must be shaved down slightly to fit between the brackets on the frame, you will see when you do it.
Axles: Use the Accord axles and intermediate shaft.
PS Line: You will need the PS line from both the Accord and the Prelude, and have the Accord lower half (that connects to the rack) spliced with the Prelude upper half (that connects to the PS pump.) Fitting shops can do this, it costs around $60. Make sure you get it long enough.
PS pump and bracket: Prelude pump and bracket
A/C compressor and bracket: Accord compressor, with either bracket
Alternator and bracket: Accord alternator, and Prelude bracket
Belts: Depending on which accessory pumps you use (Prelude or Accord) the belts may be different length. For example the pully on the Prelude's A/C compressor is a lot smaller than the one on the Accord. Basically, just get your stuff mounted up and measure the length of the needed belt, and take yourself to NAPA. We ended up using the stock length Prelude PS belt, and a 43" belt for the Accord A/C compressor and Alternator on the Prelude.
Hoses: Use the upper and lower radiator hoses off the Prelude, as well as the drivers side heater hose, that goes to the back of the block. You may also need to pick up some vaccum hose, as some of the solenoids, valves etc. are going to be in different places. Consult the vaccum hose diagram in the Prelude manual for more details here, it's pretty self explanitory.
MAP Sensor: You will need the MAP sensor off a Prelude, as the Accord MAP is mounted on the throttle body, but the Prelude has it mounted on the firewall. May as well pick up the bracket with the 3 hard lines for the vaccum hoses that also attaches to the firewall (See vacuum hose diagram.) We also got the Prelude EVAP canister, as it has 3 vaccum lines and the Accord has 2, just to avoid confusion. If you don't care about money, get it from Honda. (Remember small items fit easily in pockets!)
Exhaust: The combination of the Prelude header and the Accord cat/exhaust did not work. The Accord cat is too long. If the engine did not have a cat attatched, use an H22A cat
Shift linkage and clutch linkage: Accord
Throttle cable: Use the Prelude throttle cable and bracket. Someone with a small bit of creativity could get cruise to work, by fashioning a bracket to hold both cables properly and shortening the cruise cable and attaching it to the throttle pulley. We don’t recommend this.
*NOTE: The Accord throttle cable attaches to the pedal differently than the Prelude. There is a gap that the cable can come off using the Prelude cable, just use your head and secure it in place. There is more than one way to do this, you will see.
Harness and ECU: Use the Accord harness, and ECU for the H22 (obviously.) Unless your car was an EX the harness must be modified or a harness from an F22B1 used.
*****WIRING (if your car is originally non-VTEC and you dont want to use the F22B1 harness):
Now to clear things up, many people emailed me saying to use the Accord harness and just add the VTEC pressure, VTEC solenoid, Knock Sensor, and Intake Air Bypass wires and you are set. Similar to a B series EG swap, easy right? Well, the truth is actually much, much darker...
First of all, about half of the wires for the sensors have to be relocated/lengthened. This is difficult going into the whole thing blind, and you will spend a significant amount of time cross referencing wiring diagrams in you Helms. I will spare you that pain. Also avoid "mickey-mousing" it, buy some flex tube and tape so you can give the illusion that the wiring was not done by a drunken blind man.
Also, and I can't stress this enough, CHECK YOUR GROUNDS. They are the cause and solution to all of lifes problems!
*Wires to add:
VTEC Solenoid: Grn/Yel on Prelude harness > Pin A4 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
VTEC Pressure Switch: Lt Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D6 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
Blk/Red > Ground
IAB: Pink on Prelude harness > Pin A17 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Drivers side of intake manifold
Blk/Yel > 12V
Knock Sensor: Red/Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D3 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Middle back of block
*Sensors to lengthen:
(NOTE: Consult the helms for the location of sensors, and color code of the wires on your harness.) Colors below are for the Accord LX harness.
IAT (GRN/BLU-RED/YEL): Too short, needs to reach drivers side of intake manifold.
MAP (YEL/WHT-GRN/WHT-WHT/YEL): Too short, needs to reach wherever on the firewall you mount the MAP sensor.
EGR Lift solenoid (GRN/BLU-WHT/BLK-YEL/BLU): Too short, needs to reach passengers side of intake manifold.
H02s (GRN/BLU-WHT/RED-ORN/BLK-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to be run to O2 sensor, near oil filter.
IAC valve (BLK/BLU-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to reach top of intake runners, in the middle.
ECT switch A: This will need to be extended to the thermostat housing on the passengers side of the back of the head. The ECT sensor and ECT sending unit fit fine (under the distributor.)
*NOTE: There is no ECT switch B on the JDM H22, just spare back the connector.
Alternator: The power wire on the alternator needs to be lengthened about 2". We just cut the one off the Prelude harness, and attached it to the Accord harness with a large enough splice.
*NOTE: SWITCH WIRES A6 (EGR solenoid) and A11 (H02S heater) at the ECU
When you think you have everything wired up correctly, plug in the brick and turn the key. Have a multimeter ready to troublshoot if you throw codes. Remember, some of the sensors may be bad so don't run yourself into a wall thinking you wired wrong. (Although you may have.)
*****HOW TO:
Remove the stock motor, follow the steps in the Helms if you haven't done this before. I will assume you have a hoist. Take care removing the axles, pull them straight out of the tranny to avoid damaging the seal. It makes life easier if you remove the radiator also, as the motor/tranny must be cocked to get the tranny past the passengers side mount. Having the radiator out just gives you more mobility, and it takes about 10 seconds to remove. While you are at it you may as well remove the subframe that the trailing radius rods and front mount connect to (about 5 seconds) for even more space. Double check that everything is disconnected and hoist the motor out, this is easier with two people one pivoting the motor and watching for clearance in the back, and the other running the hoist.
Have the H22 ready to go (wiring especially) before you put it in. Drop the sucker in the opposite of how you took the F22 out, lining up the mounts etc. The H22 seems to lean back in the engine compartment, don't panic-it's normal. I am not going into too much detail here, you know what you are doing if you bought the Helms. Grind down the Prelude drivers mount, like I mentioned earlier. (Just enough to get the metal bushing to fit between the frame brackets.)
Mount your map sensor, vaccum hard lines, and EVAP canister on the firewall and consult the vaccum hose diagram on how everything interconnects. You will have two hoses to cap off on the tranny, where the power steering speed sensor connects (passengers side). Usually these would go to the Prelude rack, but since there is no matching connection on the Accord rack, they are useless.
DOUBLE CHECK ALL YOUR WIRING AND HOSES! Hook up the Prelude throttle cable, as well as your intake and header of choice, noticing that your car is going to be extremely loud driving it to the muffler shop. Finish putting everything back together, AGAIN I am assuming you have a helms so you know the steps!
Make sure you have all the fluids replaced, and everything torqued. Finish putting everything back in, and clean that dirty little motor, you should have done it before, but you were too lazy too and wnated to get it in too baldy anyhow. Stand back and adjust yourself, so on lookers think you had it all locked down from the beginning.
That's all folks. Now get off of H-T and drive your car, she deserves it. . .
[written by someone, forgot who.]
I) PARTS LIST:
plug wires and plugs
valve cover gasket
plug grommets
valve cover bolt grommets
cam seals
oil pan and gasket
H22 drivers side motor mount
H22 throttle cable and bracket
H22 PS line
IAT sensor
H22 Clutch (the Accord clutch will work temporarily if need be)
PS, AC, and Alternator belts
H22 MAP sensor, brackets, vaccum hose and evap canister
II) PARTS COMPATIBILITY DETAILS:
Mounts: This motor basically bolts in using the all the Accord mounts except for the drivers side mount. A Prelude mount must be used, and the metal bushing that holds the bolt mounting it to the frame must be shaved down slightly to fit between the brackets on the frame, you will see when you do it.
Axles: Use the Accord axles and intermediate shaft.
PS Line: You will need the PS line from both the Accord and the Prelude, and have the Accord lower half (that connects to the rack) spliced with the Prelude upper half (that connects to the PS pump.) Fitting shops can do this, it costs around $60. Make sure you get it long enough.
PS pump and bracket: Prelude pump and bracket
A/C compressor and bracket: Accord compressor, with either bracket
Alternator and bracket: Accord alternator, and Prelude bracket
Belts: Depending on which accessory pumps you use (Prelude or Accord) the belts may be different length. For example the pully on the Prelude's A/C compressor is a lot smaller than the one on the Accord. Basically, just get your stuff mounted up and measure the length of the needed belt, and take yourself to NAPA. We ended up using the stock length Prelude PS belt, and a 43" belt for the Accord A/C compressor and Alternator on the Prelude.
Hoses: Use the upper and lower radiator hoses off the Prelude, as well as the drivers side heater hose, that goes to the back of the block. You may also need to pick up some vaccum hose, as some of the solenoids, valves etc. are going to be in different places. Consult the vaccum hose diagram in the Prelude manual for more details here, it's pretty self explanitory.
MAP Sensor: You will need the MAP sensor off a Prelude, as the Accord MAP is mounted on the throttle body, but the Prelude has it mounted on the firewall. May as well pick up the bracket with the 3 hard lines for the vaccum hoses that also attaches to the firewall (See vacuum hose diagram.) We also got the Prelude EVAP canister, as it has 3 vaccum lines and the Accord has 2, just to avoid confusion. If you don't care about money, get it from Honda. (Remember small items fit easily in pockets!)
Exhaust: The combination of the Prelude header and the Accord cat/exhaust did not work. The Accord cat is too long. If the engine did not have a cat attatched, use an H22A cat
Shift linkage and clutch linkage: Accord
Throttle cable: Use the Prelude throttle cable and bracket. Someone with a small bit of creativity could get cruise to work, by fashioning a bracket to hold both cables properly and shortening the cruise cable and attaching it to the throttle pulley. We don’t recommend this.
*NOTE: The Accord throttle cable attaches to the pedal differently than the Prelude. There is a gap that the cable can come off using the Prelude cable, just use your head and secure it in place. There is more than one way to do this, you will see.
Harness and ECU: Use the Accord harness, and ECU for the H22 (obviously.) Unless your car was an EX the harness must be modified or a harness from an F22B1 used.
*****WIRING (if your car is originally non-VTEC and you dont want to use the F22B1 harness):
Now to clear things up, many people emailed me saying to use the Accord harness and just add the VTEC pressure, VTEC solenoid, Knock Sensor, and Intake Air Bypass wires and you are set. Similar to a B series EG swap, easy right? Well, the truth is actually much, much darker...
First of all, about half of the wires for the sensors have to be relocated/lengthened. This is difficult going into the whole thing blind, and you will spend a significant amount of time cross referencing wiring diagrams in you Helms. I will spare you that pain. Also avoid "mickey-mousing" it, buy some flex tube and tape so you can give the illusion that the wiring was not done by a drunken blind man.
Also, and I can't stress this enough, CHECK YOUR GROUNDS. They are the cause and solution to all of lifes problems!
*Wires to add:
VTEC Solenoid: Grn/Yel on Prelude harness > Pin A4 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
VTEC Pressure Switch: Lt Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D6 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
Blk/Red > Ground
IAB: Pink on Prelude harness > Pin A17 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Drivers side of intake manifold
Blk/Yel > 12V
Knock Sensor: Red/Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D3 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Middle back of block
*Sensors to lengthen:
(NOTE: Consult the helms for the location of sensors, and color code of the wires on your harness.) Colors below are for the Accord LX harness.
IAT (GRN/BLU-RED/YEL): Too short, needs to reach drivers side of intake manifold.
MAP (YEL/WHT-GRN/WHT-WHT/YEL): Too short, needs to reach wherever on the firewall you mount the MAP sensor.
EGR Lift solenoid (GRN/BLU-WHT/BLK-YEL/BLU): Too short, needs to reach passengers side of intake manifold.
H02s (GRN/BLU-WHT/RED-ORN/BLK-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to be run to O2 sensor, near oil filter.
IAC valve (BLK/BLU-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to reach top of intake runners, in the middle.
ECT switch A: This will need to be extended to the thermostat housing on the passengers side of the back of the head. The ECT sensor and ECT sending unit fit fine (under the distributor.)
*NOTE: There is no ECT switch B on the JDM H22, just spare back the connector.
Alternator: The power wire on the alternator needs to be lengthened about 2". We just cut the one off the Prelude harness, and attached it to the Accord harness with a large enough splice.
*NOTE: SWITCH WIRES A6 (EGR solenoid) and A11 (H02S heater) at the ECU
When you think you have everything wired up correctly, plug in the brick and turn the key. Have a multimeter ready to troublshoot if you throw codes. Remember, some of the sensors may be bad so don't run yourself into a wall thinking you wired wrong. (Although you may have.)
*****HOW TO:
Remove the stock motor, follow the steps in the Helms if you haven't done this before. I will assume you have a hoist. Take care removing the axles, pull them straight out of the tranny to avoid damaging the seal. It makes life easier if you remove the radiator also, as the motor/tranny must be cocked to get the tranny past the passengers side mount. Having the radiator out just gives you more mobility, and it takes about 10 seconds to remove. While you are at it you may as well remove the subframe that the trailing radius rods and front mount connect to (about 5 seconds) for even more space. Double check that everything is disconnected and hoist the motor out, this is easier with two people one pivoting the motor and watching for clearance in the back, and the other running the hoist.
Have the H22 ready to go (wiring especially) before you put it in. Drop the sucker in the opposite of how you took the F22 out, lining up the mounts etc. The H22 seems to lean back in the engine compartment, don't panic-it's normal. I am not going into too much detail here, you know what you are doing if you bought the Helms. Grind down the Prelude drivers mount, like I mentioned earlier. (Just enough to get the metal bushing to fit between the frame brackets.)
Mount your map sensor, vaccum hard lines, and EVAP canister on the firewall and consult the vaccum hose diagram on how everything interconnects. You will have two hoses to cap off on the tranny, where the power steering speed sensor connects (passengers side). Usually these would go to the Prelude rack, but since there is no matching connection on the Accord rack, they are useless.
DOUBLE CHECK ALL YOUR WIRING AND HOSES! Hook up the Prelude throttle cable, as well as your intake and header of choice, noticing that your car is going to be extremely loud driving it to the muffler shop. Finish putting everything back together, AGAIN I am assuming you have a helms so you know the steps!
Make sure you have all the fluids replaced, and everything torqued. Finish putting everything back in, and clean that dirty little motor, you should have done it before, but you were too lazy too and wnated to get it in too baldy anyhow. Stand back and adjust yourself, so on lookers think you had it all locked down from the beginning.
That's all folks. Now get off of H-T and drive your car, she deserves it. . .
[written by someone, forgot who.]
05-26-2003, 08:33 AM
#14
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Re: how to do a h22a civic swap (fastwanabe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fastwanabe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
decent writeup but its sounds like a writeup from 1995, its a bit inaccute now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah thats what I was thinking, thats why I asked where and when this article came from.
decent writeup but its sounds like a writeup from 1995, its a bit inaccute now.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah thats what I was thinking, thats why I asked where and when this article came from.
05-26-2003, 12:12 PM
#15
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Re: how to do a h22a civic swap (junglerunna02)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junglerunna02 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yeah thats what I was thinking, thats why I asked where and when this article came from.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not only that it sounds like instructions for putting a H22 in a Accord not a civic.
Yeah thats what I was thinking, thats why I asked where and when this article came from.</TD></TR></TABLE>
not only that it sounds like instructions for putting a H22 in a Accord not a civic.
05-26-2003, 01:20 PM
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Re: how to do a h22a civic swap (ludeEJ1)
best thing to do when thinking about doing an h22 swap. hit yourself repeately until you pass out. when you come to, gather your senses and do something easier.
hahaha i kill myself search my brotha
hahaha i kill myself search my brotha
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