Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

My rack and pinoin on my EJ1 has a leak in the passenger side power steering boot and so I have to replace it. My friend said his dad could do it for me at his shop, but I`m moving on friday and I am running out of time for him to do it, so I`ll be stuck doing it myself and not paying pepboys $700 to fix it... Is there anything special that I need to do the job? Special tools, fluids, etc?

Former User

What's your experience level and access to tools?

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

I would say that I have above aaverage mecanic skills. On a scale 1-10, I would say that I would be a 6. And I can pretty much get any tools that I need, whether I buy `em or borrow them. Since I`ll be back at my house tomorrow, I will be able to do the work and not have to worry about people saying I can`t work on my car.

Former User

You can do the job as long as you follow the steps in the service manual. It's a tedious job due to limited access to the pressure line nuts on the rack, but just take your time and you'll be fine. With the wheels straight forward, clearly mark and/or photograph the positions of the steering wheel, steering joint, and tie rod nuts so that you correctly install the new rack. Nonetheless, a wheel alignment and steering wheel adjustment will still be necessary.

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

I read the manual a few times, just like u said, the steering joint and the tie rods I know are going to be a pain. I`m not a big guy, so maybe the job will be a little easier lol. But, are there any specific tools that I need to do the job? Or just a rachet and patience.

sw388

^^ yes sir!! good luck. I was fortunate last time I replaced a rack, the engine was out and it was a DX model.

Former User

Manual or auto? For a manual, I recommend that you look in the FAQs sticky for the DIY on removal of the "bitch" pin without using a hammer. You'll also need to separate the tie rod ball joint, which is best done with a proper tool.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

^ For the record, I tried that no-hammer-bitch-pin DIY, and it was a miserable failure. Not meant for 19-y.o. vehicles driven on salted roads. In the end, a punch fit in perfectly, but you need to get the vehicle high enough to get enough throw with your hammer. Wear gloves. Also, don't lose track of the pin when you pop it out!

Former User

Worked great on my 97 Civic DX.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

^ Yeah but you're in TEXAS! You can still probably undo LCA bolts with hand tools, too. It's torches and an afternoon at a shop for me, here!

OP is in PA, so he might have trouble w/ the pin.

Former User

You are correct. Salting of roads in Houston is a very rare event.

I'd still soak the pin in PB Blaster and give the C-clamp method a try first, though I do understand that rust and corrosion might complicate this approach.

Blacknight117

iTrader: (1)

It`s an auto, and what is the name of the 'proper' tool lol.

Former User

You could use a Pitman tool (free rental at some auto parts stores like AutoZone)...



...but I prefer this $18 ball joint separator from Harbor Freight Tools:

thenext

Plenty of ground clearance helps a lot.

94EG8

Its probably easier to just leave the lines attached to the rack and remove the rack and subframe together, then remove the lines from the old rack, put them on the new rack and reinstall. I've done them like this before and it was pretty easy.

Hit your hand Eric? Pro tip: Hold the punch with a pair of vice grips, it's greatly reduced the amount of bruises I get on my hands. Only other thing I'll mention is the pin is really only supposed to be used once, even with our insane Canadian prices I think they're only $2 each.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Christ, did I ever. Was wearing gloves though, and thankful for that. I did lose the pin in the engine compartment for about 20mins til I tracked its trajectory.

Good tip.

Yeah there's a ton of stuff in the svc manual that says "replace" if you remove it. I don't listen to that a lot. Like - as IF that pin is coming out on its own. In what universe? One made entirely of PB Blaster? PLUS it has that clip over it anyway, just in case in that 1 in 100 billion chance.

94EG8

It's not that it'll fall out, it wont, but it does create a little extra slop in the linkage when you reuse the old pin. I didn't think using a new spring pin would make that much difference but it does.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Ah, makes sense - good info then. Mine's as tight as a prom date so no concern there for me atm.

Former User

Please tell me more. I'm very interested. When I replaced the rack on my 00 Civic, I followed the service manual directions (below). What exactly do you do differently? Where do you disconnect the lines? At what point do you drop the rear beam/subframe?

94EG8

I leave the rack bolted to the subframe, and I leave the rear mount as well, just take out the through bolt that attaches it to the rear T-bracket.

At the pump and reservoir, actually if there's enough room to finangle them down through leave both attached and you wont have to open the P/S system at all (I did this once, but I had the engine and transmission out, so I'm not sure if the pump fits down by the engine) Once everything the P/S lines are unbolted from the frame rail and you have the bottom knuckle/u-joint unbolted at the bottom of the steering column, tie rod ends separated and that through bolt removed drop the subframe. I never did a '96 - '00 Civic specifically, but I've done a couple of '92 - '95s which are quite similar. It sure beats the hell out of trying to undo P/S lines in areas where you can barely turn a wrench.

HondaPartsHero

http://repo.jackmoves.com/v/erik/album106/album119/

here's a thread I used to convert my EK to powersteering, it shows some good pics

Former User

Tell me if I have this right. I would (1) follow service manual steps 1-12 for rack removal (see diagram in post 19 above), (2) remove the rear mount through bolt (bolt 3 below) and disconnect the feed and return lines at the pump and reservoir, and then (3) drop the subframe, right?



What all is involved with dropping the subframe? It seems more involved than just removing these rear beam bolts:



Once removed, would the entire subframe structure shown in the picture below along with the rear mount and rack drop out? If so, is there enough room with the front end raised on stands to do this job? How heavy is this structure and is a transmission jack needed to lower and raise it?

94EG8

Right

Just separate the tie rod ends, lower ball joints, and lower U-joint basically then remove the bolts that hold the subframe up and it'll drop down.

Yes it will. There's enough room with front raised on stands (you want the stands up pretty high though, I Believe I had mine extended all the way) It's heavy, I borrowed a friend of mine to help me put the new subframe in. I can't remember if I had someone help me lower the old one out or not though. You can definitely lift it yourself, especially lowering it, it's just really hard to keep it held up and get it lined up and get bolt started all at once. You don't need a transmission jack, although if one had a transmission jack it would certainly make it a lot easier.

Former User

Thanks again. I'm unclear on all the bolts that must be removed to drop the subframe. I assume that the 4 driver's and corresponding 4 passenger's side rear beam bolts must be removed (see subframe diagram). But is there more to remove before the subframe will drop down?

And I do have the Harbor Freight Tools transmission jack below, so that might come in handy if I attempt this method. I used it to drop the transmission when I replaced my clutch. Would it work or would a regular small jack be better?

94EG8

Not that I recall Ron. Like I said I haven't done this on a '96 - '00, Just the '92 - '95s Once you start looking around under there though if there are any other bolts that need to be removed they should be immediately obvious.