Hopefully this guide will help you complete this long task and do it right the first time. FYI, this is my first how-to.
First start with a clean work place and organizing all of your tools. You will need the following:
OEM Honda Rear Main Seal Part Number: 91214-PAA-A01
- 10 mm socket, extended and short.
- 12 mm socket, extended and short.
- 14 mm socket, extended and short.
- 17 mm socket, extended and short, along with 6 pt and 12 pt.
- 19 mm socket, extended and short.
- 32 mm axle nut socket
- 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 19mm Wrenches
- Various extensions
- Breaker Bar
- Pry Bar
- Assorted flat head screwdrivers
- Medium size Philips screwdriver
- needle Nose Pliers
- Ball Joint Popper
- Jack stands
- Pieces of wood
- Gasket maker (hondabond)
Ung, the beast! Now for the fun part....
1. Break the lug nuts on the front wheels first.
2. Unbolt the negative terminal on the battery to be on the safe side.
3. Put your vehicle safely up on jack stands using the floor jack. I put mine up on all sides.
4. Remove the rims and store them along with the lugs in a safe place. Here is what you'll have:
5. Begin by destaking the axle nut, use a friend to mash on the brakes and break loose the axle nut with a 32 mm socket and a breaker bar.
6. Remove the lower shock bolt to the lca. Its a 17 mm bolt and a 17 mm nut.
7. Remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint, and break loose the 17 mm nut.
8. Pop the lower ball joint loose where the two joints meet. (not shown)
9. Remove the 14 mm fork-to-shock pinch bolt.
10. With a hammer, hit the flat part of the bulge on the fork where it arcs out, to remove the fork from the shock. Sometimes you need to lift on the shock while you pull down on the fork to get it to come out because of the axle. (Not shown)
11. Lift the hub out of the lower control arm, and with the axle nut removed, pull on the axle from the hub.
12. Drain the transmission fluid. (not shown)
13. Remove the intake assembly using a Philips screwdriver. Unplug associated sensors.
14. After the tranny fluid is drained, take a large flat head screwdriver or a crow bar and wedge it between the tranny and the axle. Pry the axles loose.
15. remove the lower exhaust section (if you have a one piece header, remove the entire header) to gain access to the tranny support bolts. Unplug the o2 sensor.
16. unbolt the support brackets around the bottom of the bellhousing to the block. Should be 14mm and 12mm.
17. Unbolt the 17mm bolt that is by itself on the back of the block above the driver axle seal (somewhat hidden).
18. Remove the two 19 mm bolts that bolt the rear T bracket to the transmission.
19. remove the two 12mm bolts holding on the clutch slave cylinder. move over to the side and out of the way.
20. Take your piece of plywood and put that between the jack and the oilpan, and support the engine from there.
21. Go to the top of the motor. Remove the ground wire to the body. 10 mm bolt.
22. Remove the two 14 mm bolts holding the torque mount to the body.
23. unplug the Vehicle speed sensor.
24. Unplug the starter signal wire, and unbolt the power wire from it.
25. Remove the two starter bolts, 14mm and 17 mm I believe. (not shown)
26. Unplug the reverse light switch plug.
27. Begin removing the 17 mm tranny bolts. Start with the one below the slave cylinder, and work your way counter clockwise around the engine. Should e two more above the slave and one below the dizzy.
28. Remove the 19 mm bolt that connects the rear T bracket to the tranny on the top, to the left of the starter.
29. Get back under the car and remove the shift linkage support rod bolt to the tranny. 12 mm bolt.
30. Remove the lower bolt from the shift linkage rod to the shifter.
31. Back up top, remove the 2 17 mm nuts, and 1 17 mm nut for the tranny bracket. Along with the long 17 mm bolt to the bushing. Remove the bracket.
**** 32. Double and triple check to make sure all bolts have been removed. I learned the hard way when I first removed the tranny. I forgot one bolt, and while the whole load of the tranny was on the one bolt, I tried to break it loose and rounded the head off. What a mess. *****
33. Lower the tranny a bit and begin to pry between the bell housing and the block. It might take a bit for it to separate depending on how old it is, but if all the bolts are removed it shouldn't take much effort.
34. Lower the jack a bit more, enough to slide the successfully seperated tranny off of the motor. It might take some twisting to persuade it. If it refuses to come off, check all your bolts again, especially the dust shield bolts. Try not to drop the tranny onto the ground either.
35. With it on the ground, slide it out from under the vehicle to give you more room to work. This is what you should end up with.
36. With a 12 point 10mm socket and a friend holding the flywheel steady by wedging a flat head screwdriver between the block and the flywheel teeth, remove the 6 bolts. Carefully remove the pressure plate without dropping the clutch disk!
37. Next, while your friend is still holding the flywheel, take your 17 mm 12 point socket and remove the 6 bolts. Careful! These are easy to strip.
This is what you should be looking at now:
38. Take your screwdriver and press it in with your hand on the inside of the seal. Pry it towards the outside of the housing and work your way around the seal until it starts to pry out.
39. Clean the oil residue out of the crank and surrounding areas.
40. Take the new seal and put gasket maker around the outside of the seal and Lube the inside of the seal and the actual crank with bushing lube to help prevent folding of the gasket.
41. Align the seal up and take the old seal, invert it, and use that as protection. Using a hammer, tap in the new gasket by slowly working your way around. Careful not to deform it. It might take a bit of effort but this method works and was recommended by actual honda techs.
I put a small bead of gasket maker around the outside of the gasket, near the outside edges as insurance to make sure it wont leak.
**** CAUTION: If after installing the gasket and it looks like the following picture, DO NOT CONTINUE. The gasket was improperly installed and it WILL leak. Get a new gasket and try again. Notice the circle in red. ******
This was the result of my poor installation the first time, after not even five minutes of running. Had to pull EVERYTHING apart again:
42. Reinstall the flywheel. Use a clean rag and gas to clean it of your fingerprints. Torque the bolts back to 87 LBS/FT, in a criss-cross, uniform fashion.
**** Use LOCKTITE on the threads of the bolts, this is added insurance. My buddy forgot this step and a few bolts backed out, trashing his clutch and shooting a bolt through the bell housing. *****
43. Clean the clutch and the pressure plate contact patch with the rag/fuel mixture. Install the combo, making sure you put the clutch in facing the right way. Use a clutch alignment tool, it helps a ton. Torque the bolts to 19 LBS/FT, in a criss-cross, uniform fashion.
**** Use LOCKTITE on the threads of the bolts, this is added insurance.*****
44. Lube the pivot and contact points on the shift fork before you reinstall the tranny. Mine rattled a lot until I did this, so don't forget.
45. Reinstall everything in reverse order.
What I did to help myself get the tranny back on the motor was slide it underneath, then lift it up onto a steelie, that way I didn't have to lift it that high. It took two people to get it on.
Suspension Torque Specs:
Lower Ball Joint: 36-43 lbs/ft
Shock Fork Pinch Bolt: 32 lbs/ft
Shock Fork to LCA: 47 lbs/ft
Axle Nut: 134 lbs/ft
Lug Nuts: 80 lbs/ft
Remember to double check everything. Make sure all bolts are tight/torqued to spec, everything is plugged in, all cotter pins are replaced, and all the fluids are topped off correctly.
*Disclaimer: I am in no way responsible for anything that goes wrong when following this guide. You do this at your own risk. This is only a guide to help you out. A service manual should be present when doing this job. *
If you see something wrong please let me know so I can fix it. Hopefully this has helped many of you out. Its not too bad, as long as your thorough and don't have to do it twice, lol.