HOW COLD CAN IT GO?
02-28-2007, 12:05 PM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
HOW COLD CAN IT GO?
for all those who have a/c. does your a/c blow out cold air?
ever since i installed my r134 system in my 93 hatch, the air hasn't been cold enough, especially during the day when the sun is out, it's like i have to let it run under a tree for about 5 min just to feel comfortable, when i'm with a shorty, her nipples don't even get hard.
now, i installed this system back around august - september, i cleaned the e-vap before installing. i also added freon and checked for leaks, so those 3 things are out of the question. what else am i missing here? anything else i need to do or check.
ever since i installed my r134 system in my 93 hatch, the air hasn't been cold enough, especially during the day when the sun is out, it's like i have to let it run under a tree for about 5 min just to feel comfortable, when i'm with a shorty, her nipples don't even get hard.
now, i installed this system back around august - september, i cleaned the e-vap before installing. i also added freon and checked for leaks, so those 3 things are out of the question. what else am i missing here? anything else i need to do or check.
02-28-2007, 12:13 PM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: FL, USA
Posts: 317
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: HOW COLD CAN IT GO? (philosofy1)
i dont know whats wrong BUT I DO know that my A/C sucks also.. the only time its cold is when its cold outside.. other then that its NEVER cold.. i was thinking about removing it
02-28-2007, 03:07 PM
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: HOW COLD CAN IT GO? (philosofy1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for all those who have a/c. does your a/c blow out cold air?
ever since i installed my r134 system in my 93 hatch, the air hasn't been cold enough, especially during the day when the sun is out, it's like i have to let it run under a tree for about 5 min just to feel comfortable, when i'm with a shorty, her nipples don't even get hard.
now, i installed this system back around august - september, i cleaned the e-vap before installing. i also added freon and checked for leaks, so those 3 things are out of the question. what else am i missing here? anything else i need to do or check.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i still got my a/c and it's pretty damn cold. i had a similar problem after i did my swap because i lost the cahrge in the system. you have to remember the proper way to charge the a/c system however. if you simply have the car off and try to connect the can it won't be cold.
you need to have the car on and running...
have the fan and a/c on full blast....
double check to make sure your a/c compressor is spinning...
if it's not spinning after turning it on... the low pressure switch for the a/c system shuts off the compressor as to not fry it because there isn't a sufficient charge in the system. there is a small "switch" which is actually a sensor that should have 2 wires coming out of it somewhere along your a/c lines. i can't remember exactly where it is off the top of my head right now. if you find, after turning on your a/c from the climate controls on the dashboard, that the a/c compressor's magnetic clutch is not engaged and that it's not spinning then what you need to do is to jump the 2 wires coming out of that low pressure switch together to trick the car into thinking there is a sufficient charge in the system. at this point if the compressor is not spinning it should start to. i simply did it with a pair of wire strippers and just squeezed enough with the strippers to make the wire strands inside the insulation connected to each other and that should made the a/c compressor kick on and start to spin.
if you simply try to hook up the can of freon and the compressor is not spinning you are simply wasting your money. and at $30+ for a charge...that adds up.
holla back and lemme know if this helps at all homie
ever since i installed my r134 system in my 93 hatch, the air hasn't been cold enough, especially during the day when the sun is out, it's like i have to let it run under a tree for about 5 min just to feel comfortable, when i'm with a shorty, her nipples don't even get hard.
now, i installed this system back around august - september, i cleaned the e-vap before installing. i also added freon and checked for leaks, so those 3 things are out of the question. what else am i missing here? anything else i need to do or check.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i still got my a/c and it's pretty damn cold. i had a similar problem after i did my swap because i lost the cahrge in the system. you have to remember the proper way to charge the a/c system however. if you simply have the car off and try to connect the can it won't be cold.
you need to have the car on and running...
have the fan and a/c on full blast....
double check to make sure your a/c compressor is spinning...
if it's not spinning after turning it on... the low pressure switch for the a/c system shuts off the compressor as to not fry it because there isn't a sufficient charge in the system. there is a small "switch" which is actually a sensor that should have 2 wires coming out of it somewhere along your a/c lines. i can't remember exactly where it is off the top of my head right now. if you find, after turning on your a/c from the climate controls on the dashboard, that the a/c compressor's magnetic clutch is not engaged and that it's not spinning then what you need to do is to jump the 2 wires coming out of that low pressure switch together to trick the car into thinking there is a sufficient charge in the system. at this point if the compressor is not spinning it should start to. i simply did it with a pair of wire strippers and just squeezed enough with the strippers to make the wire strands inside the insulation connected to each other and that should made the a/c compressor kick on and start to spin.
if you simply try to hook up the can of freon and the compressor is not spinning you are simply wasting your money. and at $30+ for a charge...that adds up.
holla back and lemme know if this helps at all homie
02-28-2007, 03:48 PM
#5
Ek Forever y0!
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Beating people with a stick, GA
Posts: 16,712
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
6 Posts
Re: HOW COLD CAN IT GO? (jz98ctr)
I have done nothing to my ac, and last september here in phoenix IF my ac was going it would get too cold inside the car.
at 120 degree temps..
I was impressed. :thumbup
at 120 degree temps..
I was impressed.
:thumbup
02-28-2007, 04:21 PM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: HOW COLD CAN IT GO? (jz98ctr)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jz98ctr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i still got my a/c and it's pretty damn cold. i had a similar problem after i did my swap because i lost the cahrge in the system. you have to remember the proper way to charge the a/c system however. if you simply have the car off and try to connect the can it won't be cold.
you need to have the car on and running...
have the fan and a/c on full blast....
double check to make sure your a/c compressor is spinning...
if it's not spinning after turning it on... the low pressure switch for the a/c system shuts off the compressor as to not fry it because there isn't a sufficient charge in the system. there is a small "switch" which is actually a sensor that should have 2 wires coming out of it somewhere along your a/c lines. i can't remember exactly where it is off the top of my head right now. if you find, after turning on your a/c from the climate controls on the dashboard, that the a/c compressor's magnetic clutch is not engaged and that it's not spinning then what you need to do is to jump the 2 wires coming out of that low pressure switch together to trick the car into thinking there is a sufficient charge in the system. at this point if the compressor is not spinning it should start to. i simply did it with a pair of wire strippers and just squeezed enough with the strippers to make the wire strands inside the insulation connected to each other and that should made the a/c compressor kick on and start to spin.
if you simply try to hook up the can of freon and the compressor is not spinning you are simply wasting your money. and at $30+ for a charge...that adds up.
holla back and lemme know if this helps at all homie </TD></TR></TABLE>
i know the car has to be running inorder to have cold a/c. my compressor, fan, blower are in working order,
basically, what i did was i picked up a whole r134 system. ripped out the r12 when i did my swap (previous to purchasing the r134). installed everything in the car, bought one of those EZ Chill freon from the part store. it had the neon ink thet can be seen with a UV light, installed that, then i used the light to check for leaks.
haven't found any leaks from install until now. do i need to oil the system? help a member out, i rather fix the problem myself vs. taking it to some shop.
i still got my a/c and it's pretty damn cold. i had a similar problem after i did my swap because i lost the cahrge in the system. you have to remember the proper way to charge the a/c system however. if you simply have the car off and try to connect the can it won't be cold.
you need to have the car on and running...
have the fan and a/c on full blast....
double check to make sure your a/c compressor is spinning...
if it's not spinning after turning it on... the low pressure switch for the a/c system shuts off the compressor as to not fry it because there isn't a sufficient charge in the system. there is a small "switch" which is actually a sensor that should have 2 wires coming out of it somewhere along your a/c lines. i can't remember exactly where it is off the top of my head right now. if you find, after turning on your a/c from the climate controls on the dashboard, that the a/c compressor's magnetic clutch is not engaged and that it's not spinning then what you need to do is to jump the 2 wires coming out of that low pressure switch together to trick the car into thinking there is a sufficient charge in the system. at this point if the compressor is not spinning it should start to. i simply did it with a pair of wire strippers and just squeezed enough with the strippers to make the wire strands inside the insulation connected to each other and that should made the a/c compressor kick on and start to spin.
if you simply try to hook up the can of freon and the compressor is not spinning you are simply wasting your money. and at $30+ for a charge...that adds up.
holla back and lemme know if this helps at all homie
</TD></TR></TABLE>i know the car has to be running inorder to have cold a/c. my compressor, fan, blower are in working order,
basically, what i did was i picked up a whole r134 system. ripped out the r12 when i did my swap (previous to purchasing the r134). installed everything in the car, bought one of those EZ Chill freon from the part store. it had the neon ink thet can be seen with a UV light, installed that, then i used the light to check for leaks.
haven't found any leaks from install until now. do i need to oil the system? help a member out, i rather fix the problem myself vs. taking it to some shop.
02-28-2007, 06:04 PM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: HOW COLD CAN IT GO? (philosofy1)
I hope everyone here knows that r134a sits "on top" of R12.
To convert:
1. Evacuate R12
2. Put on a new drier (looks like coke can by the washer resevoir)
3. Figure out how much R12 oil was taken out of system
4. At this point inspect, remove and clean out evaporator housing to get all the leaves and **** out of there because if you run outside air you will get crap in there.
5. Attach everything back up with new o-rings
6. Add exact amount of new r134a oil into the system while charging with R134a.
Please use the correct equipment for evacuate and recharge. You will need the r134a mounts for high side and low side to convert as well.
R134a does not blow "as cold" as R12 for say but is safer for environment. Whoopity doo.
Also a good device is a 10.00 digital thermostat. Stick in your center vent to get degree of coldness.
Also check your heater valve by the firewall. If this valve doesn't shut all the way it lets hot water through the system. This could affect you cooling by anywhere from 3 - 8 degrees.
Honda systems normally run 38 on cold side to around 45-50 degrees on the manual **** systems.
<U>Hope this helps you out</U>. To check heater valve if you turn all the way to cold by **** and can use your fingers to move it even 10 centimeters then it is sticking. They are around 30.00 and 20 minutes to fix.
That solved my 91 wagon by around 7 degrees.
To convert:
1. Evacuate R12
2. Put on a new drier (looks like coke can by the washer resevoir)
3. Figure out how much R12 oil was taken out of system
4. At this point inspect, remove and clean out evaporator housing to get all the leaves and **** out of there because if you run outside air you will get crap in there.
5. Attach everything back up with new o-rings
6. Add exact amount of new r134a oil into the system while charging with R134a.
Please use the correct equipment for evacuate and recharge. You will need the r134a mounts for high side and low side to convert as well.
R134a does not blow "as cold" as R12 for say but is safer for environment. Whoopity doo.
Also a good device is a 10.00 digital thermostat. Stick in your center vent to get degree of coldness.
Also check your heater valve by the firewall. If this valve doesn't shut all the way it lets hot water through the system. This could affect you cooling by anywhere from 3 - 8 degrees.
Honda systems normally run 38 on cold side to around 45-50 degrees on the manual **** systems.
<U>Hope this helps you out</U>. To check heater valve if you turn all the way to cold by **** and can use your fingers to move it even 10 centimeters then it is sticking. They are around 30.00 and 20 minutes to fix.
That solved my 91 wagon by around 7 degrees.
Trending Topics
03-01-2007, 09:56 AM
#8
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: HOW COLD CAN IT GO? (sauceja)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
<U>Hope this helps you out</U>. To check heater valve if you turn all the way to cold by **** and can use your fingers to move it even 10 centimeters then it is sticking. They are around 30.00 and 20 minutes to fix.
That solved my 91 wagon by around 7 degrees.</TD></TR></TABLE>
when i say cinverted i mean more like swapped out. everything that was the old system (r12) was removed. then i installed the new system (r134).
now, i did think about the heater valve. when you say "To check heater valve if you turn all the way to cold by **** and can use your fingers to move it even 10 centimeters then it is sticking" your mean the tempature **** itself on the climate control?
if that's the case, yeah i can move it alittle, never really thought about it that way.
where can i find the heater valve on my car?
<U>Hope this helps you out</U>. To check heater valve if you turn all the way to cold by **** and can use your fingers to move it even 10 centimeters then it is sticking. They are around 30.00 and 20 minutes to fix.
That solved my 91 wagon by around 7 degrees.</TD></TR></TABLE>
when i say cinverted i mean more like swapped out. everything that was the old system (r12) was removed. then i installed the new system (r134).
now, i did think about the heater valve. when you say "To check heater valve if you turn all the way to cold by **** and can use your fingers to move it even 10 centimeters then it is sticking" your mean the tempature **** itself on the climate control?
if that's the case, yeah i can move it alittle, never really thought about it that way.
where can i find the heater valve on my car?
03-01-2007, 10:00 AM
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: HOW COLD CAN IT GO? (philosofy1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also check your heater valve by the firewall. If this valve doesn't shut all the way it lets hot water through the system. This could affect you cooling by anywhere from 3 - 8 degrees.
Honda systems normally run 38 on cold side to around 45-50 degrees on the manual **** systems.
<U>Hope this helps you out</U>. To check heater valve if you turn all the way to cold by **** and can use your fingers to move it even 10 centimeters then it is sticking. They are around 30.00 and 20 minutes to fix.
That solved my 91 wagon by around 7 degrees.</TD></TR></TABLE>
also when you say heater valve, do mean water valve?
is this it:
http://www.thehondapartsstore....ch=no
Also check your heater valve by the firewall. If this valve doesn't shut all the way it lets hot water through the system. This could affect you cooling by anywhere from 3 - 8 degrees.
Honda systems normally run 38 on cold side to around 45-50 degrees on the manual **** systems.
<U>Hope this helps you out</U>. To check heater valve if you turn all the way to cold by **** and can use your fingers to move it even 10 centimeters then it is sticking. They are around 30.00 and 20 minutes to fix.
That solved my 91 wagon by around 7 degrees.</TD></TR></TABLE>
also when you say heater valve, do mean water valve?
is this it:
http://www.thehondapartsstore....ch=no
03-01-2007, 10:34 AM
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: HOW COLD CAN IT GO? (philosofy1)
Maybe you should go to the shop and get your a/c system flushed out..and put in the better stuff?... cause i recharged mine with the store bought self charger crap..and it did not get very cold..pressure and everything was all good.. so i decided to go flush it and add the good r134 at a shop.. and damn..it feels good now.. :D .. just a thought.. costs more..but its worth it.
03-01-2007, 10:44 AM
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Avoiding Rust, IL, USA
Posts: 425
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: HOW COLD CAN IT GO? (philosofy1)
your temperature thats suppose to come out from the vents (has to be in recirculate, fan on high, vents on face...,) should be around 25-30 degrees cooler from the outside.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supadupat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe you should go to the shop and get your a/c system flushed out..and put in the better stuff?... cause i recharged mine with the store bought self charger crap..and it did not get very cold..pressure and everything was all good.. so i decided to go flush it and add the good r134 at a shop.. and damn..it feels good now.. :D .. just a thought.. costs more..but its worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree with him, cause changing things now would make it a wild goose chase without knowing the system is good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supadupat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe you should go to the shop and get your a/c system flushed out..and put in the better stuff?... cause i recharged mine with the store bought self charger crap..and it did not get very cold..pressure and everything was all good.. so i decided to go flush it and add the good r134 at a shop.. and damn..it feels good now.. :D .. just a thought.. costs more..but its worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i agree with him, cause changing things now would make it a wild goose chase without knowing the system is good.
03-01-2007, 12:07 PM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Re: HOW COLD CAN IT GO? (philosofy1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also when you say heater valve, do mean water valve?
is this it:
http://www.thehondapartsstore....ch=no</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep thats the one. located in engine bay by the firewall. If you can move the thing with the cable on it then it is most likely bad. Try to spray wd or something on it loosen it a little or replace it with new for around 35.00.
also when you say heater valve, do mean water valve?
is this it:
http://www.thehondapartsstore....ch=no</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep thats the one. located in engine bay by the firewall. If you can move the thing with the cable on it then it is most likely bad. Try to spray wd or something on it loosen it a little or replace it with new for around 35.00.
03-02-2007, 05:46 AM
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: (Mashimaro)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mashimaro »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">don't forget to switch your climate control to 'recirculate'...makes it a lot colder. 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes, i already know this, thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supadupat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe you should go to the shop and get your a/c system flushed out..and put in the better stuff?... cause i recharged mine with the store bought self charger crap..and it did not get very cold..pressure and everything was all good.. so i decided to go flush it and add the good r134 at a shop.. and damn..it feels good now.. :D .. just a thought.. costs more..but its worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18bEG6ick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your temperature thats suppose to come out from the vents (has to be in recirculate, fan on high, vents on face...,) should be around 25-30 degrees cooler from the outside.
i agree with him, cause changing things now would make it a wild goose chase without knowing the system is good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just thought I'd mention that when cleaning out an AC system, lots of brake parts cleaner followed by compressed air until the BPC evaporates works wonders.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the store stuff is fine, the system is clean, and everything works.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yep thats the one. located in engine bay by the firewall. If you can move the thing with the cable on it then it is most likely bad. Try to spray wd or something on it loosen it a little or replace it with new for around 35.00.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, my valve was bad, so i replaced it, DAMN 45.00 for it, beats the dealer though, they wanted 55.00.
but heres the crazy part, after i put it on, i couldn't get it close still (the valve).
no matter how much i tried to adjust the cable, it still wuldn't work. now under the blower, where the cable to both the valve and the control unit seems to be some what loose. so no matter where i adjusted the cable, i couldn't get the valve fully close.
so what i did to test the system out was i closed the valve all the way, disconnected the cable from the valve and turned on the a/c. and guess what! it blows so cold i can see frosty air out the vents.
so how would i correct the problem with the cables and underneath the blower?
</TD></TR></TABLE>yes, i already know this, thanks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supadupat »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe you should go to the shop and get your a/c system flushed out..and put in the better stuff?... cause i recharged mine with the store bought self charger crap..and it did not get very cold..pressure and everything was all good.. so i decided to go flush it and add the good r134 at a shop.. and damn..it feels good now.. :D .. just a thought.. costs more..but its worth it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18bEG6ick »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your temperature thats suppose to come out from the vents (has to be in recirculate, fan on high, vents on face...,) should be around 25-30 degrees cooler from the outside.
i agree with him, cause changing things now would make it a wild goose chase without knowing the system is good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DaX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just thought I'd mention that when cleaning out an AC system, lots of brake parts cleaner followed by compressed air until the BPC evaporates works wonders.</TD></TR></TABLE>
the store stuff is fine, the system is clean, and everything works.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yep thats the one. located in engine bay by the firewall. If you can move the thing with the cable on it then it is most likely bad. Try to spray wd or something on it loosen it a little or replace it with new for around 35.00.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok, my valve was bad, so i replaced it, DAMN 45.00 for it, beats the dealer though, they wanted 55.00.
but heres the crazy part, after i put it on, i couldn't get it close still (the valve).
no matter how much i tried to adjust the cable, it still wuldn't work. now under the blower, where the cable to both the valve and the control unit seems to be some what loose. so no matter where i adjusted the cable, i couldn't get the valve fully close.
so what i did to test the system out was i closed the valve all the way, disconnected the cable from the valve and turned on the a/c. and guess what! it blows so cold i can see frosty air out the vents.
so how would i correct the problem with the cables and underneath the blower?
03-02-2007, 07:12 AM
#16
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (philosofy1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
but heres the crazy part, after i put it on, i couldn't get it close still (the valve).
no matter how much i tried to adjust the cable, it still wuldn't work. now under the blower, where the cable to both the valve and the control unit seems to be some what loose. so no matter where i adjusted the cable, i couldn't get the valve fully close.
so what i did to test the system out was i closed the valve all the way, disconnected the cable from the valve and turned on the a/c. and guess what! it blows so cold i can see frosty air out the vents.
so how would i correct the problem with the cables and underneath the blower?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i've ran wires through dashes before and accidentally disconnected the climate control cables and ****. not too hard to fix. you kinda have to disconnect the cable from the blower side and close the valve by hand. after that you have to make the switch on the dash move until you can line up the cable end closest to the valve under the dash with the valve when it's in it's closed position. i've found that a lot of times you kinda got to play with it for a few minutes to get the switch on the dash to be able to be openned and closed completely. and no matter how many times you try once that the cable has been pulled of the valve under the dash, the switch on the dash never quite "feels" the same, but you can get it close with a little bit of patience. you kinda have to make sure that if you want ice cold a/c that the valve needs to be closed completely for the most part...but there is a little bit of play in the valve itself. so what you find happening is that your a/c will be FREEZING cold like it is now....but what tends to happen is that the heat isn't HOT anymore (more like really warm). so what you have to do is back out the cable under the dash just a tad to make a complete valve seal so you get cold a/c and you get hot heat. just try to have a little patience. try to have the car running with a thermometer in the dash vents, the climate controls on recirculate and on full blast. it's a give and take...just remember there is a little play in the valve's diaphragm so you will be making a compromise if you put the cable end ALL the way in either direction. i think you know what i mean
but heres the crazy part, after i put it on, i couldn't get it close still (the valve).
no matter how much i tried to adjust the cable, it still wuldn't work. now under the blower, where the cable to both the valve and the control unit seems to be some what loose. so no matter where i adjusted the cable, i couldn't get the valve fully close.
so what i did to test the system out was i closed the valve all the way, disconnected the cable from the valve and turned on the a/c. and guess what! it blows so cold i can see frosty air out the vents.
so how would i correct the problem with the cables and underneath the blower?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i've ran wires through dashes before and accidentally disconnected the climate control cables and ****. not too hard to fix. you kinda have to disconnect the cable from the blower side and close the valve by hand. after that you have to make the switch on the dash move until you can line up the cable end closest to the valve under the dash with the valve when it's in it's closed position. i've found that a lot of times you kinda got to play with it for a few minutes to get the switch on the dash to be able to be openned and closed completely. and no matter how many times you try once that the cable has been pulled of the valve under the dash, the switch on the dash never quite "feels" the same, but you can get it close with a little bit of patience. you kinda have to make sure that if you want ice cold a/c that the valve needs to be closed completely for the most part...but there is a little bit of play in the valve itself. so what you find happening is that your a/c will be FREEZING cold like it is now....but what tends to happen is that the heat isn't HOT anymore (more like really warm). so what you have to do is back out the cable under the dash just a tad to make a complete valve seal so you get cold a/c and you get hot heat. just try to have a little patience. try to have the car running with a thermometer in the dash vents, the climate controls on recirculate and on full blast. it's a give and take...just remember there is a little play in the valve's diaphragm so you will be making a compromise if you put the cable end ALL the way in either direction. i think you know what i mean
03-02-2007, 07:33 AM
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: tx
Posts: 763
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (jz98ctr)
This is an interesting thread because its about to be hot in Texas. I have a 93 hatch with R12 still in it. My father knows quite a bit about ac systems and he hooked his gauges up and the freeon (spelling) read to be at optimum levels. But alas, the **** was hot.. No way it would work in the summer, and it didn't. About 3 days ago I took the ac out because of the turbo kit I just put in.. I will always wonder if it could have been the valve... always.... wonder.... good info
good info
03-02-2007, 07:40 AM
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Montclair, Ca, USA
Posts: 1,689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: HOW COLD CAN IT GO? (philosofy1)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by philosofy1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> when i'm with a shorty, her nipples don't even get hard.</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHAHAHA thats funny.
my ac sucked too. then when i got my ls v put it we ripped it all out. it had NO charge in it. i've never charged my ac with those cans from auto stores. i hear too many bad things, so i just have my homie at pep boys do it.
to homies at autostores
HAHAHAHA thats funny.
my ac sucked too. then when i got my ls v put it we ripped it all out. it had NO charge in it. i've never charged my ac with those cans from auto stores. i hear too many bad things, so i just have my homie at pep boys do it.
to homies at autostores
03-02-2007, 09:52 AM
#19
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: HOW COLD CAN IT GO? (Pr0ject93hb)
thanks guys for the advice. patients is one thing i battle with every day.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pr0ject93hb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
HAHAHAHA thats funny.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
any time homie, any time
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pr0ject93hb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
HAHAHAHA thats funny.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
any time homie, any time
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
02CivicEXPhilly
Honda Civic (2001 - 2005)
7
07-01-2008 04:54 AM
preludesi93-arg
Honda Prelude
5
12-29-2006 02:49 PM
