mechanicnoob

is this good?
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...r=807


Modified by mechanicnoob at 6:56 PM 8/27/2006

NathanielH

you know what a torque wrench is, but you dont know how to take a wheel off and put it back on???

TorquelessB16

I've never used a torque wrench on wheels before.

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TorquelessB16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never used a torque wrench on wheels before. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Then you're a moron.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mechanicnoob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey guys, as you can see im a noob and i have a few questions ive been wanting to learn for a while now..

i want to swap my wheels and i know the tools needed are..

a jack, monkey wrench etc and a torque wrench.

the problem is i dont kno whow ot use the torque wrench. i dont know how many pounds etc or the correct way of torqing. i am not very paranoid because i know a few people who have stripped their studs due to not torqueing or not doing it correctly. if any of you can help and links to some good t wrenchs i would appreciate it!</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'll need a jack, a set of jackstands, some wooden blocks or "chucks" to put behind the wheels that aren't in the air, a tire iron or the appropriate socket to remove your lugnuts (probably 19mm) and a torque wrench to put them back on.

You do not need a monkey wrench, lol. I'm not even sure if you could use a monkey wrench to remove lugnuts.

When you torque your lugs back down, set the torque wrench to 80 ft/lbs - you'll probably have to screw the handle up or down to find 80 - and tighten them until the torque wrench clicks. It'll kind of pivot or "break" when it clicks, so don't be afraid, you didn't do anything wrong

Good luck

mechanicnoob

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then you're a moron.

You'll need a jack, a set of jackstands, some wooden blocks or "chucks" to put behind the wheels that aren't in the air, a tire iron or the appropriate socket to remove your lugnuts (probably 19mm) and a torque wrench to put them back on.

You do not need a monkey wrench, lol. I'm not even sure if you could use a monkey wrench to remove lugnuts.

When you torque your lugs back down, set the torque wrench to 80 ft/lbs - you'll probably have to screw the handle up or down to find 80 - and tighten them until the torque wrench clicks. It'll kind of pivot or "break" when it clicks, so don't be afraid, you didn't do anything wrong

Good luck </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, ive been watching some guys do it and they usually have it click twice. does this mean they had 40 lbs each or something?


also, so after i tighten the lugnuts in place, then i bust out the torque wrench correct?

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mechanicnoob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks, ive been watching some guys do it and they usually have it click twice. does this mean they had 40 lbs each or something?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. The torque wrench will only click at the given torque level to which you set it. It's not additive...that is to say you can't set it to 40, turn it till it clicks, then turn the same stud 40 MORE foot pounds. The torque wrench will click immediately if you do this, and it's a good way to double check the torque - which I'm sure is what you've seen people do.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mechanicnoob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also, so after i tighten the lugnuts in place, then i bust out the torque wrench correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Screw the lugnuts on hand-tight then use the torque wrench. You may have to lower the car onto the ground to be able to apply 80 ft/lbs to each lug, but that's fine and quite normal. Also, make sure you tighten the lugs in a criss-cross pattern. Tighten the north one, then the south one then the east one then the west one, if you get my drift

mechanicnoob

ok cool
so its ok to torque all four lugs down righit? given that its a 4 lug car

Dilly

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mechanicnoob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so its ok to torque all four lugs down righit? given that its a 4 lug car</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, its ok.

where'd you come up with the thought of using a monkey wrench? haha.

Kamin

make sure you torque the lugnuts in a star or cross pattern. since you have a 4 lug it would be a cross.

up, down, left, right.

and you SHOULD put the car on the ground to torque it after you have the lugnuts hand tightened.

sauceja

Yeah and make sure your wheels are hubcentric or centered on your hub. This will eliminate wheel shudder or vibration. Hand tightening nuts will help to make sure they are centered properly. Stock wheels are hubcentric and fit perfectly on the hub.

Also take your t wrench or ratchet and tighten up the wheels pretty good while tire is in the air so it doesn't shift when lowered. You will not get 80 pounds which I think hondas (maybe only accords) is 84 ft lbs with tire in air unless it is rear tire and you have ebrake on.
Now is a good time to check air pressure in your tires as well and check for nails and such.

That should be my 0.02 good luck.

instructor74

Its nice to see everyone giving good answers to something that could so easily turn into a thread of flaming this guy.

sauceja

Some of us try to appreciate and not hate. I would hate to see a guy try to put on his own wheels and mess up. That is serious business. Plus there is a time to flame and a time to hate. I am in a good mood.

Short story. This guy hydrolocked B16 EF hatch. Found me as I am a Honda only guy in a small area. So I agree to do his swap and everything. Nightmare wiring, won't go into it. Over 6 hours building his engine harness alone. PITA.

Anyway. I give him his car back with the engine he bought to replace. Another B16. So he goes home gets his rims back from his cousin. Puts them on hisself and about 4 days later right in front of my workplace he loses his driver side wheel doing about 45. Fucked the oil pan and thats it. Lucky him. I think his hub might be screwed as well. His bumper is still at my house. He was supposed to pick it up that week.
Have talked to him a few times since and he doesn't hold me accountable which he shouldn't since it was his fault.
TRUE STORY!

Anyway your tires are the #1 thing that hold you to the road. Without them your car ain't ****.

mechanicnoob

is this good?
http://www.harborfreight.com/c...r=807

john666

for wheels its fine.. for anything else like head work etc i would spend more.

Tru

I would get something like this, more accurate and lifetime warranty. i dont trust cheap cheap tools like those. Are you using 3/8" or 1/2"? either way, id go with something like these: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...e=Yes

and to whoever said you wouldnt use it on headwork, i would hope not, you should use a Dial Torque Wrench on engine internals and **** that needs to be that precise, something along the lines of this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...e=Yes

mechanicnoob

what is the difference between 1/2 and 3/8

SuperSteve737

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mechanicnoob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is the difference between 1/2 and 3/8</TD></TR></TABLE>
1/8th of an inch.

That is the size of the ratchet. Not the lenth, but the little nubby thing that the socket goes onto.


Modified by SuperSteve737 at 12:39 AM 8/28/2006

EJAYATE

make sure when you take your wheels off to spray the hub and back side of the wheel (the part that mates to the hub) with some water or degreaser and take a wire brush to it to knock off the surface rust. Then spray it down once more and wipe the particles off to ensure the hub and the wheel are mating flush. Also check if there is any grease or anti-seize on the studs and remove it so you get an accurate tourqe.

EJAYATE

Oh yeah and after you put them on drive around for about 25 mi and then jack it back up and do a re-tourque.

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TorquelessB16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never used a torque wrench on wheels before.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then you're a moron.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Guess I'm a moron too, because I've never used a torque wrench on my lugs. And I've changed wheels twice (or more) per week during the summer for the past 5 years . . .

mechanicnoob

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSteve737 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1/8th of an inch.

That is the size of the ratchet. Not the lenth, but the little nubby thing that the socket goes onto.


Modified by SuperSteve737 at 12:39 AM 8/28/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok so whats the purpose of having the difference

suckmypistons

damn thats a cheap *** toqure wrench. i paid like 5-60 for mine. dude just take off the wheel put it on tighten all the lug nuts with your arm power. then set the torwue wrnech to 80 and use it until it clicks

suckmypistons

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mechanicnoob &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok so whats the purpose of having the difference</TD></TR></TABLE>

1/8 of inch is for use on hot wheels cars

suckmypistons

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Targa250R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guess I'm a moron too, because I've never used a torque wrench on my lugs. And I've changed wheels twice (or more) per week during the summer for the past 5 years . . .</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea dude.... you can even use two lugs. but its best to do **** the right way. 80lbs FTW

Targa250R

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suckmypistons &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can even use two lugs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Now that's moronic.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by suckmypistons &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">80lbs FTW</TD></TR></TABLE>
Every time my hand-torqued lugs have been checked at tech with a torque wrench, they've all been approximately 100 lb-ft, +/- 10 lb-ft.