McNizzle

I've been experiencing endless idle problems with my car. I'm tired of dealing with it and was wondering how too bypass the IACV and FITV? I searched in the archives and this question had been asked before, but there was no answer on how to do it. I just need to know what to seal and where to route the coolant lines to. Feedback would be greatly apppreciated, the idle of this car has been driving me nuts for the past month.

McNizzle

bump for the late night

JonGP4

i had a problem like that, what i did was just unbolt it off the intake, and use some electrical tape to cover the holes on the intake.. i left everything else connected, so the coolent would flow through and it wouldn't throw a CEL.. the car, idled very bad with out it.. only reason i took it off, was because it would surge and make a loud high pitched noise with it connected, i eventually got a new one and it fixed it

EE_Chris

Remove the FITV and screw the plunger/ring assmebly up - this permanently disables the FITV.

Unplug the IACV to disable it. You have a 2-wire IACV, which when uplugged closes down thus sealing off the air passage to the manifold.

mugenhatch92

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE_Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Remove the FITV and screw the plunger/ring assmebly up - this permanently disables the FITV.

Unplug the IACV to disable it. You have a 2-wire IACV, which when uplugged closes down thus sealing off the air passage to the manifold.</TD></TR></TABLE>

and you eleborate just a little bit more, i am interested in this subject also

i have pusling idle, at idle (lol)

EE_Chris

FITV fix

I'm not sure how much elaboration I can do on unplugging the IACV though....

On Speed-Density metered fuel injection systems, introducing air into the manifold serves to raise engine speed - much like depressing the throttle (a controlled air leak).

Overtime the FITV can become lazy due to its construction - it uses a wax element sitting in a pool of coolant and when the coolant gets hot, the wax expands and pushes a plunger assembly against an air passage that was leading to the intake manifold. So to fix it, you either disable it (the above link) or replace it (costs money).

The IACV does get dirty overtime - so typically when people are experiencing idle problems, a free fix is to try cleaning it out. I've also seen where they can become so clogged, that they don't actually shut down and close off yet another air passage leading into the manifold - thus you have another vacuum leak.

McNizzle

yeah i have already visited that FITV fix thread and the plunger thing inside just fell right out in my hand when i took it out so i cleaned the whole thing out, screwed it back in place and it improved the idle, but it still surges, it just waits until the car is warm now instead of doing it instantly. I also cleaned my my IACV last week, didnt do anything, ordered a slightly used one from ebay (bc i dont want to pay $180 for a new one) and that didnt work either. I sprayed all vaccum lines and around the gasket of the intake manifold and there were no leaks....So i am just stumped with this idle problem so thats why im seing if there is a way to bypass these things to make it better.

v4lu3s

to stop using hte IACV jsut unbolt it, cover the holes iont eh manifold and bolt it back in. though with no FIV and no IACV you will ahve a lot of stalling issues anytime it is cold weather, any time you have your ac on, or any time the alternator is charging.

McNizzle

for cold starts i heard u just keep your foot on the gas just a little bit for abour a minute and let the car warm up before you drive off....... there isnt a way to do this without a stalling problem though?

EE_Chris

Cover up the hole that leads to the FITV and unplug the IACV - does the idle drop to 500rpm?

If no - you're base idle speed is too high - either because you or someone actually messed with the screw or you actually have a vacuum leak somewhere.

Did you mess with the idle air bypass or throttle blade stop screw?

McNizzle

what is the best thing to use when covering up the fitv hole?

TheHatchHog

yeah, if it is a surging idle, it sounds like vacume leak. To bypass the FITV you can machine a little plate, put the fitv on a piece of metal, trace it , pop the holes, make a little gasket from rubber ect, bolt it on,then run a longer hose that connects the in and outlet from where thr coolant used to coe from. If you have a 95 up, i believe that the FITV is actually mounted to the throttle body for DOHC motors. Not sure about single cams. What i did was i bought a aftermarket TYPHOON manifold. It was only like $140 bucks, nice and polished Looks really nice, and it does not have a hole in it for Fitv, before i did that, i would have a crazy high idle while on cold start. I switched it with the new mani, BOOM problem gone. Hope this somewhat helps? I dont know&gt;

McNizzle

does anyone have any pics of which lines i need to check for a vaccum leak???? im pretty sure i sprayed ALL of the vaccum lines with carb cleaner to check for a leak and everything was fine with no leaks(checked twice), but im just wondering if i could of possibly missed something?????

Here is some detailed info about what my car is doing: <U></U> after replacing the IACV with a used b16 and after screwing the FITV plunger back in: I start the car up, it starts up at low rpm now (around 3-400rpm) after it warms up, it goes to abou 1100 and bounces slowly between 1,100 and 1,300......As the car warms up more it bounces in the same intervals, but faster.......

my motor is a JDM gsr in a civic sedan

TheHatchHog

Ever mess with your intake Mani, they are aluminum, need to be torqued down correctly, if you or someone else over tightened, you could have warped it. Do a search for a vacume line chart. then just go through it and elliminate the problem. P.S. what motor are you running and what year car? Is it a fresh swap? Maybe you have wiring wrong. Also, check the throttle cable, it can be too tight, you never know. actually disconnect the cable off the TB and push the plate closed. This happened to me with an old car. I would turn it on, and it ilde crazy, turned out the only thing that was wrong was the TB cable was too tight

McNizzle

i had this swap in my old coupe, then it was totaled and now i put it in a sedan that i picked up for $300. There shouldnt be anything wrong with the mani, never been tampered with or anything. Ill search for the vaccum charts.... The throttle cable could be a possibility. I did mess with that a little bit when i was plugging up the holes of the throttle body to try and figure out what was causing the idle situation.......

oh yeah and its an obd1 gsr in a 94civic

TheHatchHog

i will tell you what, take off your air intake tube. There will be holes the size of a dime inside the throttle body, The one in the back is for the IACV the one on bottom is the FITV, cover them up one at a time, when you cover the bottom one, your idle should drop down, if it does not, then the FITV is bad. You can pull the electrical plug off the aicv while the car is running, see if there is a change in idle. Also are you throwing any codes on your computer? That could be a big help. There is a plunger in both of those they may have to be tightened.

mugenhatch92

did you ever check your timing? i know this might not be an issue but i would check anyway

McNizzle

actually i have not checked my timing recently, but would that cause an idle problem?

McNizzle

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xXxIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will tell you what, take off your air intake tube. There will be holes the size of a dime inside the throttle body, The one in the back is for the IACV the one on bottom is the FITV, cover them up one at a time, when you cover the bottom one, your idle should drop down, if it does not, then the FITV is bad. You can pull the electrical plug off the aicv while the car is running, see if there is a change in idle. Also are you throwing any codes on your computer? That could be a big help. There is a plunger in both of those they may have to be tightened.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yep its definately the FITV bc when i covered the top hole the idle dropped a bit, but when i covered the bottom hole it stayed the same. So ive already tightened the plunger inside of it so does that just mean i need to buy a whole new one or should I just cover up FITV openings and re-route the coolant lines to bypass it? I live in Florida so it is rarely cold here.

McNizzle

bump

TheHatchHog

Pull that bitch off, and bypass it. If you live in florida. have you checked that throttle cable? What is happing exactly when you start it up, does it keep running&gt;or just rev high then die out, or does it run shitty then start running O.K. once it warms up&gt; this will help diagnos what is going on with your ride!

McNizzle

when i start it up its at a low rpm (around 400-500) but then it warms up after a few min and the idle surges between 1100 and 1300

Slopoke

Having the throttle cable too tight will cause idle surging. Have you checked it?

Also, you have checked your coolant level, right? (I'm sure you have).

An easy way I like to check for vacume leaks is spraying brake or carb cleaner around the intake manifold, vacume lines, and throttle body. If you go over a spot and the idle surges, then that's where your leak is.

McNizzle

throttle cable is the only thing left to check.....i sprayed just about every type of line/hose in my sight and didnt find a leak.

Ri5e

Have you solved the problem yet? I am having the same problem..