How to adjust idle screw?
08-08-2007, 11:57 AM
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Re: How to adjust idle screw? (meangreenEG)
U cant see it from that pic. You need to take a pic of the side of the engine on the passenger side facing the drivers side.
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08-08-2007, 01:23 PM
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Re: How to adjust idle screw? (team703)
you're not supposed to turn or adjust that screw.
Your idle is computer controlled. Either the ECU will put the idle back to where it thinks it should be..or if you move the screw too far out, so that your ECU can not put the idle where it thinks it should be, it will set a CEL on an OBD2 car.
Since you're driving a 92-95, a CEL will not be set....but your idle will return to the same crappy setting or it will be made worse by turning the screw.
Your idle is computer controlled. Either the ECU will put the idle back to where it thinks it should be..or if you move the screw too far out, so that your ECU can not put the idle where it thinks it should be, it will set a CEL on an OBD2 car.
Since you're driving a 92-95, a CEL will not be set....but your idle will return to the same crappy setting or it will be made worse by turning the screw.
08-08-2007, 01:36 PM
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Re: How to adjust idle screw? (B serious)
didnt know that, what does the screw do then, i have messed with it before and you can hear the intake sucking in more air and the idle raise alittle. whats the purpose of the screw??
08-08-2007, 01:44 PM
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Re: How to adjust idle screw? (team703)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by team703 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">didnt know that, what does the screw do then, i have messed with it before and you can hear the intake sucking in more air and the idle raise alittle. whats the purpose of the screw??</TD></TR></TABLE>
It is set at the factory where the IAC is calibrated. It gives the IAC piston a parameter between open and closed. If you change the screw position, the IAC just adjusts it's piston to go out farther or not go out as far as it regulates the idle.
If you mess with it, the idle will just return to normal, or crappier than you started.
It is set at the factory where the IAC is calibrated. It gives the IAC piston a parameter between open and closed. If you change the screw position, the IAC just adjusts it's piston to go out farther or not go out as far as it regulates the idle.
If you mess with it, the idle will just return to normal, or crappier than you started.
08-08-2007, 03:50 PM
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Re: How to adjust idle screw? (B serious)
lol ight, i wont touch the idle screw then.....car does idle a little low in hot weather and when i turn on AC, so i contemplated messing with the idle screw....
08-08-2007, 04:03 PM
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Re: How to adjust idle screw? (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It is set at the factory where the IAC is calibrated. It gives the IAC piston a parameter between open and closed. If you change the screw position, the IAC just adjusts it's piston to go out farther or not go out as far as it regulates the idle.
If you mess with it, the idle will just return to normal, or crappier than you started. </TD></TR></TABLE>
does it really?? cause in the winter my itr had a somewhat high idle and then when spring came along and it started to get warm the motor would stall when i hit the brakes every now and then and its in an obd2 car and its a 98 spec itr motor and i never threw a cel and the idle never went back to what it was at before i adjusted it. it worked for me.
It is set at the factory where the IAC is calibrated. It gives the IAC piston a parameter between open and closed. If you change the screw position, the IAC just adjusts it's piston to go out farther or not go out as far as it regulates the idle.
If you mess with it, the idle will just return to normal, or crappier than you started. </TD></TR></TABLE>
does it really?? cause in the winter my itr had a somewhat high idle and then when spring came along and it started to get warm the motor would stall when i hit the brakes every now and then and its in an obd2 car and its a 98 spec itr motor and i never threw a cel and the idle never went back to what it was at before i adjusted it. it worked for me.
08-08-2007, 04:04 PM
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Re: How to adjust idle screw? (cartune network)
besides how else r u supposed to adjust the idle??? isnt tha the purpose of the screw??? i think if the screw wasnt necessary then honda wouldnt have put it there and called it what it is. dont u???
08-08-2007, 05:00 PM
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Re: How to adjust idle screw? (cartune network)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cartune network »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
does it really?? cause in the winter my itr had a somewhat high idle and then when spring came along and it started to get warm the motor would stall when i hit the brakes every now and then and its in an obd2 car and its a 98 spec itr motor and i never threw a cel and the idle never went back to what it was at before i adjusted it. it worked for me. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well. had someone maybe put the screw at a different positon that was disrupting the flow of air? maybe you just moved it back to the original position. Or a better position than before.
Im not saying that the idle is not adjustable. There could be many reasons for your idle to get better. Maybe there was some carbon where the IAC piston was. You moving the screw made the piston have to move away from its usual position maybe losening the carbon deposit.
I'm saying that in time, the ECU will put the idle back to where it thinks it should be. This may take a few hours or a few days depending on how many times you do a drive cycle. This is similar to you disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting it. How long it takes for the ECU to relearn fuel curve is a matter of how many drive cycles you put it thru in a day.
If you move the screw, it wont INSTANTLY put the idle back. There could be a lot of other reasons why your idle got better.
maybe I shouldnt have said "never turn that screw". The idle is adjusted via that screw, but you'd be surprised at how little of a turn it takes. This is done at an interval or around 105k miles or so. It's incremental. The reason for this is because carbon does build up where the IAC is. So piston postion never recalibrates to make up for carbon build up or other things that may be going on in the manifold. So by changing positions, you force the IAC to relearn a position that creates a better idle.
But again...the screw needs to be turned incrementally to change idle after 105k miles (only if the idle needs adjusting).
I'm sure there's a procedure. Plus, most people think that the screw is a cure all. They go and jack the hell out of it because their idle is surging or something.
does it really?? cause in the winter my itr had a somewhat high idle and then when spring came along and it started to get warm the motor would stall when i hit the brakes every now and then and its in an obd2 car and its a 98 spec itr motor and i never threw a cel and the idle never went back to what it was at before i adjusted it. it worked for me. </TD></TR></TABLE>
well. had someone maybe put the screw at a different positon that was disrupting the flow of air? maybe you just moved it back to the original position. Or a better position than before.
Im not saying that the idle is not adjustable. There could be many reasons for your idle to get better. Maybe there was some carbon where the IAC piston was. You moving the screw made the piston have to move away from its usual position maybe losening the carbon deposit.
I'm saying that in time, the ECU will put the idle back to where it thinks it should be. This may take a few hours or a few days depending on how many times you do a drive cycle. This is similar to you disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting it. How long it takes for the ECU to relearn fuel curve is a matter of how many drive cycles you put it thru in a day.
If you move the screw, it wont INSTANTLY put the idle back. There could be a lot of other reasons why your idle got better.
maybe I shouldnt have said "never turn that screw". The idle is adjusted via that screw, but you'd be surprised at how little of a turn it takes. This is done at an interval or around 105k miles or so. It's incremental. The reason for this is because carbon does build up where the IAC is. So piston postion never recalibrates to make up for carbon build up or other things that may be going on in the manifold. So by changing positions, you force the IAC to relearn a position that creates a better idle.
But again...the screw needs to be turned incrementally to change idle after 105k miles (only if the idle needs adjusting).
I'm sure there's a procedure. Plus, most people think that the screw is a cure all. They go and jack the hell out of it because their idle is surging or something.
08-08-2007, 05:06 PM
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Re: (team703)
Normal factory setting is two complete turns from fully closed according to a technician from Honda....make sure your IACV sensor is unplugged while you do it but my car usually stalls when I unplug that...after you adjust your idle from that screw....turn the car off and reset your ecu...the only thing that idle screw does is it lets more air in during idle...
G/L on it.
Edit:
I adjusted that screw on my car when my car decided to stall out on me in traffic....and my car usually idled low (4-500 rpm)...after i fully closed the idle screw and opened it two full turns....my idle was fine from there...my car had never stalled from then on and idles right....I don't think the ecu has to learn the idle....
and my car is a 2000 civic SI with and OBD 2 system...no CEL's came up for me.
G/L on it.
Edit:
I adjusted that screw on my car when my car decided to stall out on me in traffic....and my car usually idled low (4-500 rpm)...after i fully closed the idle screw and opened it two full turns....my idle was fine from there...my car had never stalled from then on and idles right....I don't think the ecu has to learn the idle....
and my car is a 2000 civic SI with and OBD 2 system...no CEL's came up for me.
08-08-2007, 07:09 PM
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Re: (Si_chRis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si_chRis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Edit:
I adjusted that screw on my car when my car decided to stall out on me in traffic....and my car usually idled low (4-500 rpm)...after i fully closed the idle screw and opened it two full turns....my idle was fine from there...my car had never stalled from then on and idles right....I don't think the ecu has to learn the idle....
and my car is a 2000 civic SI with and OBD 2 system...no CEL's came up for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea same thing here. with my 98spec itr i did it and my car has never stalled since. i dont think the ecu can actually lower your idle. the only way ur idle will get low is if A. ur iacv is clogged B. ur misfiring C. ur timing is off. the ecu cant phsyically tell the iacv to lower the idle or move the piston because its manually controlled by the screw on the throttle body. the more air u let in with the screw the higher ur idle is.
Edit:
I adjusted that screw on my car when my car decided to stall out on me in traffic....and my car usually idled low (4-500 rpm)...after i fully closed the idle screw and opened it two full turns....my idle was fine from there...my car had never stalled from then on and idles right....I don't think the ecu has to learn the idle....
and my car is a 2000 civic SI with and OBD 2 system...no CEL's came up for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yea same thing here. with my 98spec itr i did it and my car has never stalled since. i dont think the ecu can actually lower your idle. the only way ur idle will get low is if A. ur iacv is clogged B. ur misfiring C. ur timing is off. the ecu cant phsyically tell the iacv to lower the idle or move the piston because its manually controlled by the screw on the throttle body. the more air u let in with the screw the higher ur idle is.
08-08-2007, 07:10 PM
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Re: (cartune network)
and if the ecu can actually controll idle than lol y was my idle at 1600 rpm's with my old all motor setup??? lol i was using massive cams.
08-08-2007, 07:41 PM
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Re: (cartune network)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cartune network »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and if the ecu can actually controll idle than lol y was my idle at 1600 rpm's with my old all motor setup??? lol i was using massive cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dunno...lol...I really doubt the ecu "controls" your idle....the idle is mostly contolled by the IACV, FITV, and the other things you said.
I dunno...lol...I really doubt the ecu "controls" your idle....the idle is mostly contolled by the IACV, FITV, and the other things you said.
08-08-2007, 11:22 PM
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Re: (Si_chRis)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Si_chRis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I dunno...lol...I really doubt the ecu "controls" your idle....the idle is mostly contolled by the IACV, FITV, and the other things you said.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok? That's like saying "your fingers aren't controlled by your brain, they're controlled by the muscles in your hand"
The IACV is controlled by the ECU. Dont believe me? Find out where the wires from the IACV lead.
Hint: there is an IACV pin on the ECU
The IACV does not magically know how much air to let into the manifold.
The IACV piston opens up all the way on start up. The ECU gets it's first readings of temperature, TPS voltage, MAP voltage, and IAT voltage, etc. It sends a signal to the IACV on where to put the piston next. Then measures readings again, then adjusts the piston some more...and on and on. Hence, the idle is controlled by the ECU.
The piston's parameters are set by the idle screw.
IACV is also called "EACV" or "electronic air control valve". So idle is not controlled mechanically as someone else stated. it is controlled electronically.
The only way to MECHANICALLY change the idle is the throttle plate set screw. This will permanently change idle settings since you open the throttle plate a little bit on idle.
The FITV stands for "fast idle thermo valve". This aids in raising the idle when the engine coolant is cold.
This can cause erratic idle if it lets air in when the car is warm.
There are two holes inside the TB. The lower one goes to the FITV. Cap that hole with your finger. If there is a lot of suction, and the idle gets better when you cap the hole, then you know your FITV is acting up.
I found out a long time ago that it was serviceable. I didnt wanna buy a new one so i figured i'd open mine up and see what was going on with it. The worst thing that could happen is that i'd have to replace it anyway.
LET THE CAR COOL DOWN. you will be dealing with coolant.
You take the FITV off the car along with the throttle body. You take the plate off the back of the FITV. There is a plastic peice that is spring loaded and screwed onto a stud. You just rescrew the white plastic peice back down. Voila.
recap the FITV and re install the motha.
Re fill and bleed your coolant.
Here's a link to a site where someone is saying all the same things as me. Except for with pics.
http://www.superhonda.com/foru...94634
Modified by B serious at 12:34 AM 8/9/2007
Modified by B serious at 12:36 AM 8/9/2007
I dunno...lol...I really doubt the ecu "controls" your idle....the idle is mostly contolled by the IACV, FITV, and the other things you said.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok? That's like saying "your fingers aren't controlled by your brain, they're controlled by the muscles in your hand"
The IACV is controlled by the ECU. Dont believe me? Find out where the wires from the IACV lead.
Hint: there is an IACV pin on the ECU
The IACV does not magically know how much air to let into the manifold.
The IACV piston opens up all the way on start up. The ECU gets it's first readings of temperature, TPS voltage, MAP voltage, and IAT voltage, etc. It sends a signal to the IACV on where to put the piston next. Then measures readings again, then adjusts the piston some more...and on and on. Hence, the idle is controlled by the ECU.
The piston's parameters are set by the idle screw.
IACV is also called "EACV" or "electronic air control valve". So idle is not controlled mechanically as someone else stated. it is controlled electronically.
The only way to MECHANICALLY change the idle is the throttle plate set screw. This will permanently change idle settings since you open the throttle plate a little bit on idle.
The FITV stands for "fast idle thermo valve". This aids in raising the idle when the engine coolant is cold.
This can cause erratic idle if it lets air in when the car is warm.
There are two holes inside the TB. The lower one goes to the FITV. Cap that hole with your finger. If there is a lot of suction, and the idle gets better when you cap the hole, then you know your FITV is acting up.
I found out a long time ago that it was serviceable. I didnt wanna buy a new one so i figured i'd open mine up and see what was going on with it. The worst thing that could happen is that i'd have to replace it anyway.
LET THE CAR COOL DOWN. you will be dealing with coolant.
You take the FITV off the car along with the throttle body. You take the plate off the back of the FITV. There is a plastic peice that is spring loaded and screwed onto a stud. You just rescrew the white plastic peice back down. Voila.
recap the FITV and re install the motha.
Re fill and bleed your coolant.
Here's a link to a site where someone is saying all the same things as me. Except for with pics.
http://www.superhonda.com/foru...94634
Modified by B serious at 12:34 AM 8/9/2007
Modified by B serious at 12:36 AM 8/9/2007
08-08-2007, 11:28 PM
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Re: (B serious)
Ok, so maybe i shouldnt have said not to turn that screw AT ALL. I meant that you shouldn't just jack the hell out of it with the IACV plugged in....because the piston will just readjust itself.
But like i said before, there is a procedure to adjust the screw. You have to actually reset the parameters of the IACV.
Turn on the car and wait till it at normal operating temp. Unplug the IACV. Set the screw so that the car idles at around 600-700 rpm.
Replug in the IACV. Turn off the car. Turn the car back on.
The car should idle at around 800 or so RPM.
But like i said before, there is a procedure to adjust the screw. You have to actually reset the parameters of the IACV.
Turn on the car and wait till it at normal operating temp. Unplug the IACV. Set the screw so that the car idles at around 600-700 rpm.
Replug in the IACV. Turn off the car. Turn the car back on.
The car should idle at around 800 or so RPM.
08-09-2007, 01:21 PM
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Re: (B serious)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The FITV stands for "fast idle thermo valve". This aids in raising the idle when the engine coolant is cold.
This can cause erratic idle if it lets air in when the car is warm.
There are two holes inside the TB. The lower one goes to the FITV. Cap that hole with your finger. If there is a lot of suction, and the idle gets better when you cap the hole, then you know your FITV is acting up.
I found out a long time ago that it was serviceable. I didnt wanna buy a new one so i figured i'd open mine up and see what was going on with it. The worst thing that could happen is that i'd have to replace it anyway.
LET THE CAR COOL DOWN. you will be dealing with coolant.
You take the FITV off the car along with the throttle body. You take the plate off the back of the FITV. There is a plastic peice that is spring loaded and screwed onto a stud. You just rescrew the white plastic peice back down. Voila.
recap the FITV and re install the motha.
Re fill and bleed your coolant.
Here's a link to a site where someone is saying all the same things as me. Except for with pics.
http://www.superhonda.com/foru...94634
Modified by B serious at 12:34 AM 8/9/2007
Modified by B serious at 12:36 AM 8/9/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
The FITV valve from what I know is a valve that is sealed and it contains thermal wax which thickens (when cold) and thins out (when hot) and this causes the car to idle high when your engine has been sitting for a while and when you start it up...hence the thickend, dried wax....and when your engine is warm...your car doesn't idle as high right when you start it since the wax is thinner.
I've been told not to mess with the FITV from my friend thats a Honda technician since it can seriously mess up your idle...but taking out the IACV and cleaning it the wire mesh will help your idle out if you are having problems....the IACV does tend to get dirty from coolant residue so...just make sure you replace the O ring gasket to prevent it from leaking coolant.
The FITV stands for "fast idle thermo valve". This aids in raising the idle when the engine coolant is cold.
This can cause erratic idle if it lets air in when the car is warm.
There are two holes inside the TB. The lower one goes to the FITV. Cap that hole with your finger. If there is a lot of suction, and the idle gets better when you cap the hole, then you know your FITV is acting up.
I found out a long time ago that it was serviceable. I didnt wanna buy a new one so i figured i'd open mine up and see what was going on with it. The worst thing that could happen is that i'd have to replace it anyway.
LET THE CAR COOL DOWN. you will be dealing with coolant.
You take the FITV off the car along with the throttle body. You take the plate off the back of the FITV. There is a plastic peice that is spring loaded and screwed onto a stud. You just rescrew the white plastic peice back down. Voila.
recap the FITV and re install the motha.
Re fill and bleed your coolant.
Here's a link to a site where someone is saying all the same things as me. Except for with pics.
http://www.superhonda.com/foru...94634
Modified by B serious at 12:34 AM 8/9/2007
Modified by B serious at 12:36 AM 8/9/2007</TD></TR></TABLE>
The FITV valve from what I know is a valve that is sealed and it contains thermal wax which thickens (when cold) and thins out (when hot) and this causes the car to idle high when your engine has been sitting for a while and when you start it up...hence the thickend, dried wax....and when your engine is warm...your car doesn't idle as high right when you start it since the wax is thinner.
I've been told not to mess with the FITV from my friend thats a Honda technician since it can seriously mess up your idle...but taking out the IACV and cleaning it the wire mesh will help your idle out if you are having problems....the IACV does tend to get dirty from coolant residue so...just make sure you replace the O ring gasket to prevent it from leaking coolant.
08-09-2007, 02:12 PM
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Re: (B serious)
check specs for actual setting for idle RPM ... the rpms are set at two different ranges with and w/out the IACV plugged in. on mine the RPM was set at 450ish w/o IACV pluged in then with it plugged in it idles around that 670... Adjustment screw doesnt do anything with the IACV pluged in on mine.
08-09-2007, 02:35 PM
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Re: (Magik123)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Magik123 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
check specs for actual setting for idle RPM ... the rpms are set at two different ranges with and w/out the IACV plugged in. on mine the RPM was set at 450ish w/o IACV pluged in then with it plugged in it idles around that 670... Adjustment screw doesnt do anything with the IACV pluged in on mine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
About time.....
Factory setting is not two turns, its the number of turns needed to set the required base idle, as every car breathes differently, as do those at sea level and at 10,000 feet above.
Adjustment screw wont do jack if the IACV is plugged in, it will undo your adjustments electronically.
IACV needs to be unplugged, and engine fully hot. Before you set your BASE idle of 450rpm, check to make sure your PCV system is in good shape and is not clogged, as a large portion of the engines idle air is drawn from the crankcase. Your engine should maintain its crappy 450rpm idle until your plug the IACV back in. If it is out of spec, slowly adjust the idle screw until a 450rpm idle is reached as is maintained. Then plug in the IACV, and your idle will be as specified.
The FITV is sealed, but is adjustable by screwing the plastic plunger down, as B serious stated.
Removing the IACV o-ring gasket will not leak coolant, it will leak air if it is bad. Coolant runs through the brass fittings on its bottom side.
check specs for actual setting for idle RPM ... the rpms are set at two different ranges with and w/out the IACV plugged in. on mine the RPM was set at 450ish w/o IACV pluged in then with it plugged in it idles around that 670... Adjustment screw doesnt do anything with the IACV pluged in on mine.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
About time.....
Factory setting is not two turns, its the number of turns needed to set the required base idle, as every car breathes differently, as do those at sea level and at 10,000 feet above.
Adjustment screw wont do jack if the IACV is plugged in, it will undo your adjustments electronically.
IACV needs to be unplugged, and engine fully hot. Before you set your BASE idle of 450rpm, check to make sure your PCV system is in good shape and is not clogged, as a large portion of the engines idle air is drawn from the crankcase. Your engine should maintain its crappy 450rpm idle until your plug the IACV back in. If it is out of spec, slowly adjust the idle screw until a 450rpm idle is reached as is maintained. Then plug in the IACV, and your idle will be as specified.
The FITV is sealed, but is adjustable by screwing the plastic plunger down, as B serious stated.
Removing the IACV o-ring gasket will not leak coolant, it will leak air if it is bad. Coolant runs through the brass fittings on its bottom side.