How-To: 4x114.3 Brake Conversion on EK
05-16-2003, 12:14 PM
#1
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How-To: 4x114.3 Brake Conversion on EK
Tools needed:
Ratchet 1/2 and 3/8
1/2 Breaker Bar
Sockets:
32mm (axle nut)
19mm
17mm
14mm
12mm
10mm
Wrench's:
17mm
14mm
12mm
10mm
10mm line wrench
Others:
Dyke's
Hammer
Step 1
-Remove wheels (19mm)
-then axle nuts (32mm)
-You will need a breaker bar or air tools to loosen the axle nut
-Get in car and remove e-brake cables (self explanitory)
Step 2
We started with the rear.
-Remove 14mm trailing arm bolt from LCA
-Remove 14mm bolt from upper control arm
-Remove 14mm bolt from toe adjustment
-Using a line wrench remove 10mm brake line. Put a towel or something under so you don't have a huge mess
-Get under car and remove the last (2) 17mm bolts from trailing arm bushing to frame
-Remove rear trailing arm
Step 3
-Put 4x114.3 Trailing arm in place
-Reverse step 2
-Don't tighten tow adjustment all the way
Step 4
The front....
-You can not use ITR A-Arms. You need to use the EK ones
-Remove cotter pins from upper and lower ball joints and steering rack bolts
-Loosen both 17mm bolts on ball joints do not remove completely
-Break upper and lower ball joints loose. A few hits from the hammer should persuade them to come loose.
-Using 10mm line wrench, remove brake line
-Now completly remove 17mm bolts from ball joints
-Remove entire front knuckle
Step 5
-Place 4x114.3 complete front knuckle back in place.
-Revers step 4
Make sure you re-install all cotter pins and all brake lines are tight.
Step 6
Now time to to bleed the brakes.
-Start with the one farthest from the brake master cylinder
-Fill resivior with brake fluid
-Have someone pump brakes and hold.
-Repeat untill no more air comes out
Order:
-Right rear
-Left rear
-Right front
-Left front
I just use the ITR brake lines. I next plan on getting the Goodrich SS Brake lines.
Step 7
almost there
-Reinstall wheel
-Straighten out steering wheel
-Using a flat piece of metal place across center of front rim, line up with body.
-Use (2) 19mm wrenchs to break tie rod loose
-With 14mm adjust untill metal is parrell with body.
-Now tighten
Now the rear...
-Place the flat piece of metal across the middle of wheel
-Push the tow adjustment in or out accordingly untill metal is parrell with body.
-Now tighten
Lower car down.
-Get back in car and re-install e-brake cables. This is alittle hard. But it can be done.
Remember alway torque lugs. Get ready to roll!
PICS!!!!!
Notes
-The 4x114.3 WILL bolt directly on
-You need to use EK A-Arms
-You can use the ITR e-brake cables
-Alex
Ratchet 1/2 and 3/8
1/2 Breaker Bar
Sockets:
32mm (axle nut)
19mm
17mm
14mm
12mm
10mm
Wrench's:
17mm
14mm
12mm
10mm
10mm line wrench
Others:
Dyke's
Hammer
Step 1
-Remove wheels (19mm)
-then axle nuts (32mm)
-You will need a breaker bar or air tools to loosen the axle nut
-Get in car and remove e-brake cables (self explanitory)
Step 2
We started with the rear.
-Remove 14mm trailing arm bolt from LCA
-Remove 14mm bolt from upper control arm
-Remove 14mm bolt from toe adjustment
-Using a line wrench remove 10mm brake line. Put a towel or something under so you don't have a huge mess
-Get under car and remove the last (2) 17mm bolts from trailing arm bushing to frame
-Remove rear trailing arm
Step 3
-Put 4x114.3 Trailing arm in place
-Reverse step 2
-Don't tighten tow adjustment all the way
Step 4
The front....
-You can not use ITR A-Arms. You need to use the EK ones
-Remove cotter pins from upper and lower ball joints and steering rack bolts
-Loosen both 17mm bolts on ball joints do not remove completely
-Break upper and lower ball joints loose. A few hits from the hammer should persuade them to come loose.
-Using 10mm line wrench, remove brake line
-Now completly remove 17mm bolts from ball joints
-Remove entire front knuckle
Step 5
-Place 4x114.3 complete front knuckle back in place.
-Revers step 4
Make sure you re-install all cotter pins and all brake lines are tight.
Step 6
Now time to to bleed the brakes.
-Start with the one farthest from the brake master cylinder
-Fill resivior with brake fluid
-Have someone pump brakes and hold.
-Repeat untill no more air comes out
Order:
-Right rear
-Left rear
-Right front
-Left front
I just use the ITR brake lines. I next plan on getting the Goodrich SS Brake lines.
Step 7
almost there
-Reinstall wheel
-Straighten out steering wheel
-Using a flat piece of metal place across center of front rim, line up with body.
-Use (2) 19mm wrenchs to break tie rod loose
-With 14mm adjust untill metal is parrell with body.
-Now tighten
Now the rear...
-Place the flat piece of metal across the middle of wheel
-Push the tow adjustment in or out accordingly untill metal is parrell with body.
-Now tighten
Lower car down.
-Get back in car and re-install e-brake cables. This is alittle hard. But it can be done.
Remember alway torque lugs. Get ready to roll!
PICS!!!!!
Notes
-The 4x114.3 WILL bolt directly on
-You need to use EK A-Arms
-You can use the ITR e-brake cables
-Alex
05-16-2003, 12:57 PM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Chronicsinners)
I believe spoon n1 not sure though..
Wasn't this car for sale just a while ago?? change your mind?? Great looking car..one of the best EK's I have seen!!!
Wasn't this car for sale just a while ago?? change your mind?? Great looking car..one of the best EK's I have seen!!!
Trending Topics
your EK....makes me want to get rid of my EG.... 
05-16-2003, 01:21 PM
#9
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Re: (SlowCivicHmm)
I just did this on my EG-- Crazy reading the step by step after I just did it.... but dude, you left out a crucial part--
Civics use a 13/16" master cylinder, and a 3030 proportioning valve-- You need a 1" Integra DC2/DB8 3rd Gen (any model) master cylinder w/ brake booster and a 4040 proportioning valve for rear discs.
So before you bleed the brakes, you need to-
Use a turkey baster (not your mom's good one) to get all the brake fluid out of the civic MC.
Unbolt the MC from the brake booster
Remove brake lines from MC w/ 10mm flare nut wrench (of good quality)
Remove brake lines from 3030 civic proportioning valve-- this gets interesting, and sometimes these nuts are a real box full of sunshine to remove because of the difficult angle.
The PV has 3 x 10mm nuts holding it onto the firewall. The bottom one is only accessible by a 1/4" drive 10mm deep socket. Or a wrist pivot attachment.
Take your drivers seat out , and lay on your back working under the dash. There's a cotter pin in the attachment for the brake pedal to the master cylinder.
4 x 12mm bolts hold the brake booster onto the firewall & remove booster
I have a B18C1 in my EG, and I had a hard time getting the booster out. First detach the vacuum actuator for the VVIS manifold, then coax it in.
The 4040 PV doesn't have the bracket to fit the civic firewall, and if you try to remove the bracket from the civic PV and put it on the integra PV, the bolt it first a security torx driver, but also the threads have vertical cuts in them and will mess all the threads up on the bracket, so I just used the integra bracket which is narower, and only bolted it to the right stud on the firewall.
Attach the brake lines to the PV in all the same places as the civic's.
You'll have to bend the brake lines at the master cylinder to get them to thread in. Get creative.
Bleed the brakes farthest-to-closest and NOW you're done.
Sorry to bag on the write up dude, but the MC and the 4040PV are necessary to do the job correctly.
Car looks really nice though, gotta love sprint harts. Only thing that concerns me about 4 x 114.3 (with mine) is that I'm going to need a new set of rotors at some point, but all the pads are GS-R (in case you weren't aware).
But anyway, gotta love the feel of those brakes on a light car
Civics use a 13/16" master cylinder, and a 3030 proportioning valve-- You need a 1" Integra DC2/DB8 3rd Gen (any model) master cylinder w/ brake booster and a 4040 proportioning valve for rear discs.
So before you bleed the brakes, you need to-
Use a turkey baster (not your mom's good one) to get all the brake fluid out of the civic MC.
Unbolt the MC from the brake booster
Remove brake lines from MC w/ 10mm flare nut wrench (of good quality)
Remove brake lines from 3030 civic proportioning valve-- this gets interesting, and sometimes these nuts are a real box full of sunshine to remove because of the difficult angle.
The PV has 3 x 10mm nuts holding it onto the firewall. The bottom one is only accessible by a 1/4" drive 10mm deep socket. Or a wrist pivot attachment.
Take your drivers seat out , and lay on your back working under the dash. There's a cotter pin in the attachment for the brake pedal to the master cylinder.
4 x 12mm bolts hold the brake booster onto the firewall & remove booster
I have a B18C1 in my EG, and I had a hard time getting the booster out. First detach the vacuum actuator for the VVIS manifold, then coax it in.
The 4040 PV doesn't have the bracket to fit the civic firewall, and if you try to remove the bracket from the civic PV and put it on the integra PV, the bolt it first a security torx driver, but also the threads have vertical cuts in them and will mess all the threads up on the bracket, so I just used the integra bracket which is narower, and only bolted it to the right stud on the firewall.
Attach the brake lines to the PV in all the same places as the civic's.
You'll have to bend the brake lines at the master cylinder to get them to thread in. Get creative.
Bleed the brakes farthest-to-closest and NOW you're done.
Sorry to bag on the write up dude, but the MC and the 4040PV are necessary to do the job correctly.
Car looks really nice though, gotta love sprint harts. Only thing that concerns me about 4 x 114.3 (with mine) is that I'm going to need a new set of rotors at some point, but all the pads are GS-R (in case you weren't aware).
But anyway, gotta love the feel of those brakes on a light car
05-16-2003, 02:28 PM
#13
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Re: (2kTypeRHatch)
Now somebody buy my stuff and you can roll on some rare *** Mugen M7's with the conversion. 
Sorry for jacking the thread. Youre car looks nice and good job on the write up.
Sorry for jacking the thread. Youre car looks nice and good job on the write up.
05-16-2003, 02:40 PM
#15
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damn bro your car is sweet! makes me want a hatch. Oh well it'll never happen. But nice write up too ive been wondering what exactly was needed from the donor car.
05-16-2003, 02:41 PM
#16
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Re: (2kTypeRHatch)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2kTypeRHatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drooooool M7's I want them hehe</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just found these recently and I dont want to sell them but I would like to finish up my drag car. Who know I might just keep them and do a write up like you.
I just found these recently and I dont want to sell them but I would like to finish up my drag car. Who know I might just keep them and do a write up like you.
