Bonez21

that car is my hatch's idle

clint g

iTrader: (1)

Nice write-up brought back from the archive

Fuster_Cluck

I have a totaled teg (94 LS) that I will be pulling the entire braking system off of this weekend....

Great write-up!!



PS <> Do you need any other size besides the 10mm flare nut wrench???


Modified by Hybrid93Hatch at 6:50 PM 8/23/2005

Mooneyes13

LSEGHATCH

Very Nice

AMECustom

correct me if i'm wrong but dont you have to go inside the car and remove the brake pedal-to-booster pins in addition to the booster-to firewall nuts?

clint g

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AMECustom &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">correct me if i'm wrong but dont you have to go inside the car and remove the brake pedal-to-booster pins in addition to the booster-to firewall nuts?</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats correct

AMECustom

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clint g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
thats correct</TD></TR></TABLE>

would there be any reason why he left that out of his write up though...?

AMECustom

also is there even a need to change the brake booster? I've heard people only replacing their proportioning valve to a 40/40 and the master cylinder to a 1"

badpootie

I used a booster off an ABS integra and got my bro to help me slightly mod it so the 15/16th mc could fit. How much did you get the 15/16th booster for? Where?

badpootie

If you use the 1" MC beware: you have to flare your lines to get it to fit. Use the 15/16th MC and 40/40 prop valve. Buy that stuff brand new. Don't get it from Ebay. I bought defective crap off one of those guys.

badpootie

I feel like a retard replying to myself. But I want people to know that you should not use a 15/16th MC with an ABS/1" brake booster. Bad things will happen. I learned the hardway.

If you have an EG civic, use your stock brake booster to hookup the 15/16th MC (that comes off the early 90's Integra RS).

There's just too many different types of information floating around out there and I hope nobody makes the same mistakes as me.

2000Accord5sp

just curious, what is the 'bad things' that happened because you used an abs brake booster?

Harryflores

Nice write up! Are you supposed to used a 4 Point Harness in those kind of seats?

B18EG6

I noticed there was an earlier post about bench bleeding... I found this document in my notepad and think everyone would benefit from it...

from https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=874191

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boomslang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The master cylinder on my '94 VX had 224K miles on it and the seals were beginning to leak. I decided to upgrade to the 15/16 size MC that is found in the '91 Civic EX 4-Door. The part number is 46100-SH4-A11. The mention of this upgrade is found in this thread -&gt; https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=364783

First, pull your new master cylinder out of the packaging. If you bought a new one from Honda (I did) then it will come with two plastic plugs that plug up the brake line ports. I couldn't find a MC bench bleed kit that would work, so instead I rigged up my own kit using some clear plastic tubing and a cut up rubber jump rope.

I cut the end of the plastic port plugs off with a utility knife, creating a hollow plug. The plastic tubing fit inside the plugs tight. Then I inserted the plugs with tubes in them into the ports. You can see this below.





You need to run the tubing into the top of the reservoir. You need to secure it some how, so they stay put when you bleed the MC. I used a zip tie.



I just held the MC level in my hand and filled it about 3/4 full with brake fluid. Then I used the heel of my hand to pump the piston of the MC. Pump it slowy until you bleed all of the air out. It will take quite a few pumps. Don't compress the piston in all the way, just about 3/4 of the way in. I've been told you can damage the seals in the MC if you compress it all the way in while bleeding.



Some people put it in a vise and use a screwdriver handle to pump the piston. It's not really necessary, pumping the piston isn't that hard.

After the air is bled out, leave all the bleeding apparatus in place. Then install it in place of the old MC.



With the new MC in place of the old, remove the bleeding tubes, and connect the hard brake lines to the MC. Keep a rag underneath the MC to catch any brake fluid that drips out. It'll eat your paint alive. Yes, I know the engine bay is dirty. I don't really care, it's my beater.



Fill the MC up with brake fluid and put the cap on. Bleed the rest of the brake system if necessary. It wasn't necessary on my car. The pedal was rock hard.

Using this larger MC was an EXCELLENT upgrade. The brake feel is so solid and the it engages with less pedal travel. It makes me have much more confidence in my car's safety.

FYI: I am using stock sized Brembo rotors up front with some Axxis pads. The rears are stock drums.



Modified by boomslang at 9:10 AM 7/13/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

An interesting note that I recently found on my own car that I think will help everybody out when doing hybrid brake systems...

Changing brakes & master cylinders can very easily effect your brake pedal height. I found that after a rear disc swap on my 94 Civic CX that it forced my brake pedal up some. Because of this, the pedal stop (brake light switch) was forcing the pedal to keep constant pressure on my master cylinder. In turn, the master cylinder forced my front brakes to drag (especially when hot). I noticed when I had the car off the ground, it required quite a bit of force to spin the tire. If I spun the tire as hard as I could, it would only make it about half way around...

The fix was easy. Get in the foot well by the pedals, and adjust your brake pedal height. You must make sure there is a little bit of free play before the pedal starts to engage the master cylinder. My helms manual says to give about .25" of free play. To do this, you simply:
- unplug the brake light switch
- loosen the switch's lock nut
- and back the whole switch out by spinning it like a screw
- dial in the correct amount of free play in the brake pedal (measure from the pedal to the floor)
- lock the brake light switch in it's new position
- plug the switch back in
- check to make sure your brake lights still work properly...

-Gary-

That thing is a MUST HAVE!

thahuhstunna

very good write up. hopefully this will deter future multiple posts all on this topic. great pics too

2000Accord5sp

Good pics but looks like someone needs to clean their engine bay. j/k

So I got done with the prop valve and MC/Booster yesterday. Those things are a pain...even with a flare wrench the bolts were stuck and the booster bolts were just plain so hard to get to. My stupid big hands wouldn't fit in there...

StolenTeg

a proportioning valve from a 93 integra is the right one right?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

You can use a prop valve from any 88-95 NON ABS Civic, or 90+ NON ABS Integra...

The difference is the mounting bracket. I used a 94-97 integra prop valve & it was a little tricky, but one of the holes on the bracket matched up to the stud on the fire wall. You need alteast 1 nut holding it down (civic has 3). The brake pipes will definently support the rest...

2000Accord5sp

why do you need any of the holes to support it? just in case something presses onto the prop valve and so it won't bend any lines? otherwise I don't see how just sitting there not bolted will do any harm. am i missing something?

jdmeg9

just a side note. you could actually take the torx nuts off the back of the rear drum and pull the spindle off. then put the rear disc spindle on, it just bolts in place of the drum. that will save have to take the rear trailing arms off of the car since those trailing arm bushings are a pain.

toEknEEg

DAMN!!! 4 years later and this thread is still going.. awesomeness!

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by toEknEEg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DAMN!!! 4 years later and this thread is still going.. awesomeness!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't doubt it. There's someone on the boards asking about this everyday.