Luserkid

Ok im originally from Cali, and we dont get to hot weather. But i went to Az. to visit some friends this weekend and when i got here its like damn near 100 degrees or something. Anyway the whole trip my car was fine (stopped at every rest area to let it rest). I get here, the temp is still low and everything but my idel is up in the 1500 - 2200 RPMs range. Is this normal or ok on hot weather? And for people that live out in temps like this, do you guys run just water, just antifreeze, or a mix? I never had weather like this, it sucks . Thanks for Any help.

granada_sun

Try mixing a little more antifreeze in the engine, thatll raise the boiling point of the water, maybe drop the temp a lil. Or try adjusting your idle screw on the throttle body to drop it and let the idle air control valve adjust it for you (on the back of the intake manifold).

Luserkid

bump

NiiS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dark_Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try mixing a little more antifreeze in the engine, thatll raise the boiling point of the water, maybe drop the temp a lil. Or try adjusting your idle screw on the throttle body to drop it and let the idle air control valve adjust it for you (on the back of the intake manifold). </TD></TR></TABLE>

That is completely false. The water you have in the system actually raises the boiling point of the anti-freez. Not the other way around. There are only 2 benefits to running anti-freeze:
1. to prevent corrosion, and
2. to prevent from freezing.

Water actually has one of the highest boiling points known to man, so theoretically you`d get a better cooling system with just water only. But, it will rust over quickly. So you in turn use a portion of anti-freez.

Now on to Victor`s question, I have had the idle problems for evAr it seems, I think I finally figured out most of the factors involved:

First, before you do anything, make sure you have plenty of coolant in the system, hot and cold.
Then bleed it out.
next, (assuming that did`nt work) move onto the FICV (fast idle control valve), I can`t tell you how many times that was my problem and I neglected to investigate. Take it off, remove the plate, see if everything is tight, that will surely affect idle in adverse ways.
Next, go to the IACV, for that you search for other peoples soiutions, then apply any of the tried and true methods.
For now that`s al I can think of...

After all, I should know, I put that motor in your damn car

MilanoRex

Do you have your A/C on? That raises the idle..

NiiS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MilanoRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have your A/C on? That raises the idle..</TD></TR></TABLE>

No A/C, I yanked all that at the customers request

Luserkid

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Now on to Victor`s question, I have had the idle problems for evAr it seems, I think I finally figured out most of the factors involved:

First, before you do anything, make sure you have plenty of coolant in the system, hot and cold.
Then bleed it out.
next, (assuming that did`nt work) move onto the FICV (fast idle control valve), I can`t tell you how many times that was my problem and I neglected to investigate. Take it off, remove the plate, see if everything is tight, that will surely affect idle in adverse ways.
Next, go to the IACV, for that you search for other peoples soiutions, then apply any of the tried and true methods.
For now that`s al I can think of...

After all, I should know, I put that motor in your damn car </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey Mike, so your saying i should bleed the radiator or what exactly should i bleed? Either way i would have to do it when i get back to LA im still in hot as Az til tomorrow.

NiiS

Ok, right where the upper radiator hose meets the head, there is a bleeder valve(like the one used to bleed brakes), you use a 12mm open/box wrench and do this while the car has fully cycled, meaning the fans are turning 3x, the temp is up and so on. carefully open your radiator cap, &lt;use a rag in case&gt;, then be prepared to add H2o to the system to counter the loss from the open bleeder, do it till you see no more bubbles, or just a straight stream for that matter, then you have successfully bled the cooling system

If that don`t work, move on to the next...

granada_sun

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That is completely false. The water you have in the system actually raises the boiling point of the anti-freez. Not the other way around. There are only 2 benefits to running anti-freeze:
1. to prevent corrosion, and
2. to prevent from freezing.

Water actually has one of the highest boiling points known to man, so theoretically you`d get a better cooling system with just water only. But, it will rust over quickly. So you in turn use a portion of anti-freez.

Now on to Victor`s question, I have had the idle problems for evAr it seems, I think I finally figured out most of the factors involved:

First, before you do anything, make sure you have plenty of coolant in the system, hot and cold.
Then bleed it out.
next, (assuming that did`nt work) move onto the FICV (fast idle control valve), I can`t tell you how many times that was my problem and I neglected to investigate. Take it off, remove the plate, see if everything is tight, that will surely affect idle in adverse ways.
Next, go to the IACV, for that you search for other peoples soiutions, then apply any of the tried and true methods.
For now that`s al I can think of...

After all, I should know, I put that motor in your damn car </TD></TR></TABLE>

what exactly are the two boiling points, for future reference??

NiiS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dark_Sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

what exactly are the two boiling points, for future reference?? </TD></TR></TABLE>

The correct boiling point for water is 212+°F, of course that depends on your altitude, but it shound`nt fluctuate more than +/-10.


Anti-freeze boiling points are more fickle: It all depends on the ratio you use. When I stated water has a higher B/P I assumed you were using a pre-determined mix. Because My answer would be wrong if you were to use only anti-freeze, but nobody would use 100% anti-freeze, atleast in a car. Therefore that`s the reason for my statement

Ntrpriz

I though the colder weather makes you engine idle higher, not vise versa?(could be wrong)