brickinthewall

There is a green connector and a yellow connector that goes to the Dimmer/cruise switch one goes to the dimmer part and the other goes to the cruise on/off button.

brickinthewall

This pict is from CFA DIY.
See how he connects both dimmer and main to itself and nothing else?

brickinthewall

Ah, I know what the main switch problem is. LOL.
At the junk yard I cut both pigtails off and used both severed tail in the new switch. I could have used the old original dimmer switch that was already wired into my car and only had to wire up the cruise part. Which I guess would have been just splicing over to the dimmer wire for the most part.
So what I did was take the ends of each wire and connected them to the other wire of same color.
DUH.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like progress. Yes that is a typo in the graphic you posted.

brickinthewall

I was only asking about electronics because it seemed no one was willing to clarify their own DIY which was my primary focus, and that forced me to ask about electronics in order to solve the problem. I

Heres another example of differences in Manual, real world, and the DIY:
pg 23-253 circuit diagram with srs--top right of page. There is NO yellow wire at all, in real world, going straight down to the Cruise control dimming circuit.
The manual lists it but on the switches in my hand there is absolutely ZERO yellow wire exiting the switch.
The dimmer switch only has Red, Red/blk, and Blk. No yellow/blk, and no YELLOW wire.

So is it a stupid/lazy question to ask how the hell am I supposed to figure out that ****? Or would it be wiser just to ask someone who has already done the install how they solved that difference/problem?

So what is the solution to that, smarty pants?

Former User

Are you begging me to censure you from this forum? That's what happens to members like you with a bad attitude.

Figuring out your simple wiring problem would be child's play for me.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

OH MY GOD, I knew I'd figure this confusion out.

Cruise Control Dimming Circuit =/= (ie., does not equal) THE DIMMER SWITCH ( called the Dashlight Brightness Controller on the wiring diagram) !!

The Cruise Control Dimming Circuit is that little PCB you installed in the cluster! Has a green connector! There are 4 wires coming out of it, one of them is YEL. The others are RED/BLU, RED/BLK, & BLK.

The dimmer switch (Dashlight Brightness Controller) is that dial thing next to the Cruise Main switch in your dashboard! Has 3 wires coming out of it: RED/BLK, RED, BLK. The dimmer switch has nothing special to do with your cruise control retrofit, other than the fact that the Cruise Main switch needs to be connected to it so it will dim with the other dash lights - as in, the dimmer switch will work to dim the bulb on your Cruise Main switch, just as it works to dim your other dash bulbs.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Also, brickinthewall, please don't antagonize Ron. He's very helpful, but doesn't have patience for n00bs. Neither do I typically, but in this case I take pleasure in knowing my DIYs are useful to other people and am committed to help so long as I see progress happening.

Former User

No disrespect to you deschlong. Your outstanding work speaks for itself.

My hackles get raised when I encounter thankless, whining members. I will always encourage them to move on.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Welllll, that's unfortunate. I feel like we were very close to getting this resolved once and for all! And even after I asked you not to antagonize. Oh well, see you in 2015!

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Ten-year anniversary bump.

BiggieBert

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Interestingly, the Del Sol VTEC uses the same cruise brain as a 2DR/4DR EX AT ... so there's your answer. I wouldn't bother sourcing a different cruise brain, even if yours is from a MT donor. It will be close enough.

NukeNinja

Deschlong, thanks for this thread, it was my bible in doing my installation.

Cruise controlled models have the clutch switch installed as the lower of the two switches on the clutch pedal arm. CX and VX models also have a switch installed here so the ECU knows when the clutch is being pressed. The ECU stops injecting fuel when coasting in gear and starts injecting fuel again when you press the clutch in. Also, the upshift indicator is deactivated by pushing in the clutch. This switch is normally closed. The cruise control switch is normally open. So they cannot be interchanged. And you cannot use a VX P07 ECU (or the ECU is for a CX) without the normally-closed switch. If you want a VX with cruise control, you will need to add a second (normally-open) switch to the clutch pedal assembly.

I fabricated a custom bracket to mount the added cruise control switch. The switches are M10-1.25 fine thread. I welded a nut to a piece of flat bar and welded that to the existing switch bracket. I melted the rubber stop slightly. Then I made a pad out of T-bar and welded that to the clutch pedal.

BiggieBert

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Thanks! Always great to know when my write-ups help people out with their projects.

Thanks for the insight on the cruise install in a USDM CX or CDM/USDM VX. I did a cruise install into my old hatchback that I converted into a VX. That car rotted out and I swapped the motor into an AT CDM EX-V Sedan and converted it to a MT "VX Sedan", akin to an EDM VEi or JDM ETi. At no point did I manage to deal with the low-ish priority mod of ensuring both the upshift light and the cruise control light functioned on the gauge cluster. I knew I had to tackle the problem of the dual switch at the clutch pedal, plus wiring in the upshift light and its PCB to its new location, plus now deciding whether to put the upshift light in the original USDM CX location (top right, where my ABS light now is), or somewhere new (likely top left). Anyway, currently that car is parked in a field in the prairies until I can drive it back to its new home where I now live and I'm not putting much thought into all this until I have it back firmly in my hands. That said, I've always wanted to tackle this little issue to my satisfaction. I like to have all the features of my cars working properly!

Curiously, someone else had a solution to this problem which evidently worked for him though I don't understand how. From a few years back on the ecomodder board:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...tml#post337601

And my questions about his setup, to which the OP responded. An interesting read if you like this sort of thing:
https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...tml#post350366

NukeNinja

That sounds like a cool car.

I took over my upshift light and used it for the cruise indicator. I was going to put the cruise control indicator light up high, where the ABS goes in the other models. But there was no wire from the harness connected to the plug in that pin location. So I would have had to add a pin to the plug. Not that tough, I know, but I really didn't appreciate the upshift light anyway. So instead I just cut the wire to the upshift indicator and spliced in there. So now my upshift light is my cruise indicator. And I have to figure out when to shift on my own.

I also got way off into the weeds with the actuator cable. The Honda cruise control operates the accelerator pedal, that in turn operates the throttle. Initially, swapping the pedal assemblies seemed difficult, so I decided to modify my throttle body cable sheave so that the actuator would operate the throttle directly, the same as the pedal does. I thought this would result in more direct automatic control. It turned out to be WAY more difficult than swapping pedal assemblies. But, in the end it worked out great.

tony_2018

On the comment you made on have a sedan utilize the d15z1 from the factory, after running the d15z7 in my sedan I can say it didn't have enough power to battle the challenges of going uphill or passing traffic. It got great mpg though but there were times where it got scary being next to an 18 wheeler and slowing down to let the 18 wheeler pass was freaking me out. Alot of downshifting to get uphill too. Maybe a snail turbo will help...

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

How so? The D15Z7 with 3-stage VTEC is supposed to pump out about 128hp, yet still get great fuel economy. Rivals the D16Z6 at its 125hp. Does the different trans gearing give it not enough oomph? I do know they are notoriously tricky as a swap into CDM/USDM rides if they are incomplete (e.g., without the correct P2J ECU, incomplete wiring, etc.).

tony_2018

The tranny is suppose to be the same as the y8 ex model though I haven't confirmed that. It does have the s20 stamp and 'A000' code stamped on it. The mpg is definitely good. Hp, or butt dyno, wise I've never driven a d16z6 or y8 so I wont know the difference. Wouldn't be a fair comparison with my old b20/b16 combo

It will always have a place in my stable and I'm not giving up on it. Still tootin in my sedan, just gotta deal with additional weight.