brickinthewall

Deschlong,
in your DIY at the brake light section, you list
LT GRN going to CC
LT GRN going to junction on the under dash fuse box. (where Power? GRND??)
GRY going to CC
GRN/WHT "if necessary" to CC ( please explain this "if necessary" statement)

Cause for alarms DIY also is confusing.
LT GRN to CC
**LT GRN to Main**
GRY to CC
Grn/Wht splice it and branch a section to CC

thanks.

Just ready to do this, and wire the power, and put steering wheel back together.
Test run soon!

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

"Junction" means a junction connector, which is just that, a junction. It passes through this connector, and then goes to the Main Switch. That's it. Nothing fancy. You can see the LT GRN wire in one of my pics in figure 6, the grey connector on the top of the fuse box. It looks like the LT GRN wire is just next to the #2 in the pic. You have the LX harness? Just copy the route it took in this harness, and install it in your VX the same way. Also, re-read my DIY as I have clarified that section following one of your questions.

GRN/WHT "if necessary" means if you tapped in to GRN/WHT at the brake switch where I suggested you should, then route it to the CC brain along with the other wires I mention just before. If you didn't tap in to GRN/WHT here, you're not going to be routing the GRN/WHT wire from here, are you? You're going to be routing it to the brain from wherever else you tapped in to it. Just send your GRN/WHT to the brain from wherever you tapped in to it, it's not "optional" which I guess is what you're connoting from my phrasing. I could clarify that, but my phrasing is referencing my earlier sentence where I write: "You might choose to splice the GRN/WHT wire which goes to the CC brain here."

brickinthewall

Ok. thanks for the clarification.
But when you put a wire into that grey connector on top of the fuse box,doesnt the back side of that pin have to have a wire going somewhere?

So if I put a LT grn wire into one of the blank spots in that connector then you are saying that I need to connect a wire on the back side and wire that to the main switch's LT GRN?

Also can you help me on the CC light.
CFA's DIY has the yellow wire going to the main switch, then on another page he has it going to the BLK/yello Wire at the fuse box. (again, but which spot on the fuse box?? Any old BLK/YEL wire in the fuse box?

I didnt see where in your DIY you address the wiring for the CC light. Perhaps I missed it or it wasnt sufficiently detail for my newbie self.

brickinthewall

Also can you tell me what do you mean by the below quote of "running to the large splitter behind..."
Do you mean splice it into a big bundle of wires where one of the wires is BLK/YEL??

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

I guess I just figured people would see how the wires ran that they pulled out of the donor car, and put them in the same way. It's really hard to get wrong if you do this. I'd like to get to the root of where all these questions are coming from because I get the distinct feeling you're doing this retrofit without the benefit of the wiring diagram in the Service Manual, and depending heavily on my responses.

The service manual, as I state in my DIY, is invaluable and specifically the wiring diagram will answer a lot of your queries and should be your main tool to refer to, whereas my guide should be used mainly for some of the logistical issues as well as hints and tips for where to run your wires, as well as of course all the parts to get and hints and tips about them too.

brickinthewall

No its lack of electric knowledge. I have the service manual. But it doesnt explain electronics sufficiently for someone just starting out in fuze boxes, relays, and such.

For example, I dont understand how the front of the fuze box is different from the back.

My understanding is that the fuse box is sending electricity out and grounding stuff. connections on the front are receiving electricity, and connections on the back are receiving electricity. I dont get why we have to plug wires in certain spots on the fuse box.

So when you say plug a Lt Grn wire into the gray junction on top of the fuse box, I would assume that means splice it into another LT Grn wire in the connector, or put it into an empty slot, and either way there should be a wire exiting the back of the junction, and I am assuming that there exists one already because you didnt state that we had to add one to the backside. On my fuze gray junction there is no LT GRN wire currently. So to me a junction is no different than wiring straight between two points. I dont see the purpose of the junction.

And I really dont understand how the back of the fuze box works.

Sorry for my ignorance. Just keeping it real. I am sure other newbies have the same concerns.

Former User

Do yourself a favor by becoming very familiar with the FAQs sticky. You'll find threads like this:

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d.../#post47713037

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

OK so this was my first ever foray into wiring, so I was - like you - a complete and utter newbie when I installed this system. So, I know what it's like.

So, to clear up a few things:

Fuse box. There is no difference between wires that come in/out of the front and back: one is not "receiving", and the other is not "sending". So get that out of your head. The simplest explanation is that the fuse box's main role is to take power from the battery, and spread it around to all the components in the car, but first passing it through a fuse. It's a little more complicated than that, because sometimes power has to pass through a component, then it goes BACK to the fuse box to be spread around to OTHER stuff. But that is the gist of it. In the service manual there is a "Power Distribution" section of the Electronics chapter that shows ALL of these connections. The input/output locations (ie., where the wire goes) is almost random, but there is some logic to it: Wires that meet the fuse box at the FRONT tend to be a part of the harness(es) that go up to the cluster or the dashboard. Wires that come out the back combine to form a harness that goes either towards the front of the car somewhere, or else to the rear. Or the doors.

Junction connectors. Let's talk about the ones on top of the fuse box at the moment. Easiest explanation here is that these are wires from the different harnesses that are going from one HARNESS to another. They pass through these junctions so that the harnesses can stay separate, in case you ever want to take them out complete. Let's use the LT GRN as an example: It goes from the brake switch in the footwell to the dash main switch, right? So, in your original LX this means it goes from the main FRONT harness (often called a firewall harness, because it runs along the firewall), to the DASH harness. Because these are two separate harnesses, it passes through a junction, which happens to be mounted on top of the fuse box. It has nothing else to do with the fuse box other than this is a convenient location to mount a junction connector.
The LT GRN wire goes in one side (male connector) and comes out the other side (female connector) and goes on its merry way. I detail this in my DIY because this is the PROPER way to install it - through a junction - and not because I want to be overly confusing. In my DIY, I state: "[...]the other LT GRN passes through the grey junction on the under-dase fuse box (Figure 6) before travelling on to the Main Switch." Note the use of the term "passes through". This implies that the wire doesn't stop here. And that is corroborated when I state that the wire "travel[s] on to the Main Switch".

brickinthewall

No, the LX at the junk yard already had the fuze box missing so I could not see where things were wired.

I am not trying to troubleshoot at this point. So giving me a link to troubleshooting is of no help with trying to figure out your DIY directions to get the wires in the proper place in the first place.
Conflicting, unclear descriptions in these DIY's, are the cause of my questions. I would think that you could see how to a beginner certains points are confusing, and perhaps you would want to be clarify those points in your DIY so others(I am sure I am not the first one the feel this) would have clearer understanding of the wiring.

You come at this with years of experience, so certain things in your mind are assumed to be understood and not needing a clarification.

It doesnt help when you dont answer my questions either.

Looking thru a 1444 page honda service PDF is daunting task of finding this connector, find this device, go to that index, what does this symbol mean, where did I find that before, find this page, find what c441 p1 7.5v blah blah blah means and then, for example, the wiring of the main switch in the honda manual doesnt show as far as I can find, where it says wire red to red, black to black, nor red/blk to red/blk as per the DIY's.

So yeah I am confused as hell.

Former User

You may not be able to overcome a low aptitude problem. There's no quick fix pill to cure this issue. Google search simple bonehead terminology and then put your nose to the grindstone by reading. If that's beyond you, then pay a mechanic.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Oh, right - I was going to come back to the "splitter", I didn't answer that yet. On your dash harness, kinda behind the area where the Main Switch mounts, as part of the harness, there is a "splitter" for wires. Mine was blue, and wrapped in clear tape. There's a bunch of wires leading to it, and if memory serves, they are RED/BLK, RED, and BLK/YEL. This is a place you can tap in to the wires you require for the switch and the cruise indicator light. Either insert female end connectors into empty slots in the splitter (that is what I did for a "cleaner" install), or just use your T-taps for wires here. Basically, I'm saying this is where you can look for these wire colours to tap in to their functionality for use with the retrofit.

This retrofit was my very, very first thing I ever did to modify my car, and I could barely read a wiring diagram at the time to save my life. Plus, there were no resources I could rely on to help me at the time. Fast forward 6.5 years later and I have learned quite a bit about these little cars and I encourage others to do the same. But, it requires a LOT of self-teaching if you're starting at absolute zero. This means reading, reading, reading, if you're still unclear about stuff. Learning curve is steep, though!

For the record, I disagree with Ron's "low aptitude" comment (tsk), but I do think you need to re-read the relevant sections of the Service Manual and possibly other background material to fully grok it.

The wiring diagram in the Service Manual is NOT wrong. For example, if you look at LT GRN, it goes from the brake switch to the Main Switch and to the CC brain. It needs to go to these places one way or another. In my DIY I tell you to pass it through the junction connector on top of the fuse box on the way to the Main Switch. This is an important detail if you want to mimic the way it was installed originally in the LX. If the Main Switch requires a RED/BLK and a RED wire, LOOK for these colour wires nearby and tap in to them. I mention the splitter in the DIY because this is a place to find and tap in to these colour wires.

As an example, I never mention RED/BLU in my DIY from the CC brain to the Cruise light indicator in the gauge cluster, but if you look on the wiring diagram, there it is! It's required. Just because I don't mention it in my DIY doesn't mean you don't need to wire it up. You pulled your wires out of the LX, correct? Did you not make a note - mental, or otherwise - where these wires ended? Did you pull them all the way to their source, like I instruct in the DIY? This is basically why I instruct you to do this, as in make the reinstall super duper easy, and all the wires are the correct length!

Former User

It's low aptitude, lack of adequate motivation, or a desire to be spoon fed. You make the choice. For example, the questions about the fuse box can be answered on your own with just a little thought along with information provided in the service manual. The service manual also defines all of the electrical symbols. The guy is just overwhelmed with technical information, which could be above his skill set or his energy level.

brickinthewall

I didnt say the Service Manual was wrong. I said it leaves stuff out or left unclear. So for people to tell me to go look at Manual for the same wiring you are describing didnt help.

For example, Main Switch to Dimmer switch wiring. The manual doesnt even mention wiring the Main red/blk to dimmer red/blk, or red to red, nor black to black. If it does, show me exactly where it says that.

So, either I can spend 8 hours reading a manual and trying to figure it out, or I could consult the person who already wrote the DIY and ask to clarify.
You do the math Ron. What is reasonable to do?

I wasnt asking for a lesson in electronics, I just wanted someone to clarify their own DIY. Whats wrong with that? Especially if 50 other people in the future benefit and save tons of bandwidth and time. Thats what these forums are for. Helping each other and asking questions. Come on man. chill out.

Former User

Yes you were. Reread your own posts.

I've been here long enough to know when a member is lazy or just doesn't have the aptitude for the work. And it only makes it worse when the member is prone to moan.

brickinthewall

Here is what I have pieced together from all sources.
Going to go recheck my wiring in my car now to see if adjustments need to be made.
Look ok to you guy?

Former User

Great idea.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

The Main Switch-to-dimmer information is on this page, on the right, where it states "DASHLIGHT BRIGHTNESS CONTROLLER". Red from Main Switch taps into red from dimmer switch. RED/BLK comes from Fuse 19. BLK goes to ground. I don't see these connections on your hand-drawn diagram. Also YEL need to tap in to an existing YEL from the fuse box (you have it connected to BLK/YEL?).

I still think there's something holding you back but we'll soon get to an 'epiphany' moment where it all comes together. I sense you're very close.

brickinthewall

Are my yellow arrows the same thing for hookup to power as the yellow drawing?
This is how Cause For Alarm has listed the routing. Not correct?

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

The CC light uses a YEL, but the switch and brain requires requires BLK/YEL. You seem to have them all connected together on your diagram - your YEL joins the BLK/YEL. This is not correct.

The RED/BLK in your car is fused by Fuse #19. Your diagram shows all your RED/BLK all joined together but it DOESN'T show me that you've connected it to the EXISTING RED/BLK in your car. Same idea with your BLK for the indicator light and the Main Switch. These are joined together but don't go to ground. Compare what you've drawn to the Service Manual wiring diagram!

You have 6 wires coming off the Main Switch. Compare this to the wiring diagram and what do you see?

brickinthewall

I noticed on your DIY the details for "plug in your newly wired connector" are missing. Doesnt explain how to wire the red, red/blk, blk, or blk/yellow wires.

Just FYI. Trying to help others.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

^ There, I fixed it just for you.

brickinthewall

Now you know why I am getting confused. These DIY are not complete or incorrect. This is how CFA has his described also. None of these DIY's described what you are saying. Thats further why I didnt understand the manual. I was assuming everyones DIY was proper.


Main switch I have :
Cruise side red connected to dimmer side red
Cruise side blk connected to dimmer side black
Cruise side red/blk connected to dimmer side red/blk
Lt green connected to CCU
blk yellow to fuze box and split to cc light.

These are per CFA dirs.

brickinthewall

"Dashboard main switch & pigtail
Pry out the blank, install your new main switch.
Plug in your newly wired connector: LT GRN comes from the brake switch, first passing through the junction connector on top of the fuse box. YEL can be tapped in to by the fuse box. RED/BLK can be tapped in to using the wiring splitter in your dash harness approximately behind where the main switch goes. RED too, I believe, if not then tap in to a RED wire in the area. BLK goes to ground."

You do realize in that in the Main Switch there are two pigtails. One for dimmer and one for the Cruise switch, right?
So there are two of each: Red, Blk, Red/Blk and one Blk/Yellow, and one Lt GRN
There is no plain yellow wire its a BLK/Yellow at the Main Switch/dimmer switch.

So are you saying that each red,red/blk,blk from both pigtails needs to get wired to that splitter harness color for color??
Currently I have them wired to each other as per CFA's diy. So can I just leave them wired to each other and put a t-connector on each and connect to that harness?

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Two pigtails? Show me what you mean by that.

"blk yellow to fuze box and split to cc light." is not correct. BLK/YEL to main switch, yes. But YEL to CC light, not BLK/YEL.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

GODDAMMIT, I mixed up those colours. Geez, I'm not making it easy for you. Fixed.

In my instructions, I'm telling you one way to do it. If you use wire taps to tap into the correct colours then this is good enough.