deschlong

iTrader: (8)

A GRN/WHT has to go to the CC brain. It's easiest to tap in to this wire at the brake light switch. My write up said "WHT/GRN" but that is a typo that has gone unnoticed for 6 years - nice find.

LT GRN passes through a junction connector at the top of the fuse box. Seriously, have you pulled the wiring out of the LX yet? Pull it out all as a complete package more or less, then install it into the VX. You really can't go wrong.

brickinthewall

I just checked that yellow plug at the top of my fuse box (see previous picture-bottom/center of picture yellow plug), and I find immediately exiting the connector is two BLUE wires (solid blue but slightly different shades each) then black tape. Now maybe further back under the black tape the blue wires split into the Grn/blk, Grn/red wires??

As for the connecting to the yellow connector under the steering wheel that connects to that ribbon that goes inside the wheel, all I see is plain grey wires entering into that yellow connector.

Suggestions? Anyone else had a honda VX install with cruise control??

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

There is another yellow connector just barely visible at the very top of your picture, which would equal the side of the fuse box. Maybe that's where LT GRN/BLK and LT GRN/RED meet up with the rest of the under-dash harness ... actually, this post 19 on the first page answers your question!! ... So that 4-pin connector is the correct one.

Another pic of it: Set/Resume Button Wires Photo by Blaip | Photobucket
You should flip through that pictorial DIY from the photobucket account, too - very helpful.

brickinthewall

Yes, I pulled the parts from the LX and the connectors to each.
I did not go thru and trace back all wiring and remove whole strands. That is Beyond my newbie capablilties.

brickinthewall

On the LT GRN wire from the Brake, you have it going to the junction box under the fuse box (i just noticed your figure 6 and understand now), but on Cause For Alarms DIY, he has that wire going to the Main Switch LT GRN.
Is this the same effect as your wiring?

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

^ I see how that is unclear. I just mean that it passes through the junction connector on top of the fuse box, on its way to the Main Switch.


EDIT: There, I made a few edits to the OP to clarify some of your questions. Thanks!

brickinthewall

Ok here are my connectors under the dash. See picts.

I cant see where the steering wheel CC stuff splices into any of these.
I dont find the LT Grn/blk, and the LT grn/red wires in any connector.
I do see some dark green/red, and dark green/blk wires though.
I dont think they are both in the same connectors. Are these the ones I need??

The yellow connector you last pointed me to in a previous mesg I circled in red.
Note: that connector has 4 wires going into it but ony 2 prongs inside the receptor end. This seem strange to me. What happens to the other two wires inside the connector?

And the other 6?p connector you suggested that might contain the I have a close up picture of it.

Thanks. Hoping to get this done by sunday night.

ps..344,000 miles of dust under there! lol

brickinthewall

more picts

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

This is the correct connector, I believe. What colour are the wires here behind the male side of the connector? And which vehicle am I looking at? The VX won't have the correct number of wires for the cruise steering wheel buttons since it didn't have cruise to begin with. Is this a pic of the LX or the VX wiring?

brickinthewall

This is the VX wiring.
Behind the yellow mounted connector is two wires: blue and a different shade of blue

Also if I leave the black wire on the clutch switch as is, thats ok right? I mean its going to ground anyways, right?

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Now take a photo of the LX wiring at that location.

What you do with the clutch switch is still an open question that I haven't figured out, because the VX needs that switch to know when you've shifted, but the CC needs that to know when the clutch is depressed to disengage the CC. But, one uses a normally-open switch, and the other uses normally closed. You could fab a bracket that holds the CC switch in place, possibly. That is, of course, if you want to keep the upshift indicator. If you want to forego it, then it's an easy swap out of the switch.

brickinthewall

my vx never had an indicator for upshifting. (curious, is that what the little red light next to my defrosters is? It never comes on, and I see this light in pictures for other civics also. The guy on the photo bucket link you suggested has that red light next to his dimmer switch also.)

My clutch does have the two switches, one up higher, and the lower one with the pink, black wires. What is the top switch for?

I left my lower switch in (pink, black wire) because it looked the same as the LX lower switch. I got the LX one in case needed. Are you saying that I need to swap the LX into the VX anyways? aaauuugggh.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Hmm, show me your cluster.

And yes, swap out the switch.

How much progress have you made with this install so far?

brickinthewall

I have installed the actuator and tested it(failed at push and pulling), got wires thru the firewall for the actuator, I swapped out the pedals, hooked up the cables, removed the dash cluster, installed the indicator light circuit board, installed the main switch not wired yet, removed the fuse box( easier to work), wired the new brake switch with wires, marked all the wires on the CCU with tags so I can install them, thats about it I think.

I will have to take pictures of the donor LX tomorrow in Junk yard.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Cruise and upshift light circuit boards occupy the same spot where the circuit board mounts, but use a different circuit board -- but yes they mount in the same spot.

You need the little green plasticy thing that fits over the cruise indicator bulb spot (kinda the same idea as the red and yellow plasticy tabs that you see). Get this from the donor cluster. Also be sure to use the exact bulb that the LX uses in that spot. It's a lower-wattage bulb.

It looks like someone was messing around with your fuel/temp indicator, trying to do some custom something-a-rather with the blank spots where bulbs can fit, and where the upshift indicator was. Just replace yours with the LX fuel/temp indicator and you'll be as good as new. BE VERY VERY VERY CAREFUL REINSTALLING THE FUEL/TEMP INDICATOR. The screws WILL break stuff if tightened too much. Don't make this newbie mistake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If ever you want to revisit the installation of an upshift indicator, you can come back to this at a later time. You might be missing that little circuit board, though. But if you look on your VX dash wiring there should be a little white female plug, 5-pin I think?

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Ohhh, wait I bet yours is a California model that didn't have the upshift light. Always forget about those.

You asked about the two clutch switches. The top one is the clutch safety switch (don't touch!).

brickinthewall

No one was messing with the gages other than me. actually, I was scraping off the Blackout so as to allow light to go thru the spots where honda blacked the indicators out. I think one is for upshift, and the other is definitely for the cruise indicator.

Here is pict of brake switches.
Short one is the LX cc donor cars switch.

brickinthewall

Yeah, my vx was made in Canada for Cali. I had to swap out the Cali ecu for the 49 states to get the better mpg.

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Well you've made a mess of that fuel/temp meter.

Here, use my method in my DIY for my low fuel sensor, and use nail polish remover. https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d.../#post45005986 .... If it's not too late, of course.

brickinthewall

Ah, low fuel indicator. My VX doesnt have that option though. Probably why honda blacked out that on the dial.
I wish I would have known about your DIY for the fuel gage prior. lol

Would be nice to have upshift indicator also. Cant I just splice the wires on the clutch switch or something?
Just use one switch for two purposes?

Hey also on the above clutch switches, the VX (taller one) depresses smoothly, the LX (shorter) makes a small clicking sound as you depress it. Is either defective?

Also, my clutch switch didnt have the rubber stopper at the bottom resulting in that VX switch went thru a hole in the pedal where the rubber stopper was supposed to be. Didnt seem to cause a problem. Is it because my car didnt have CC or upshift the reason they left out the rubber stopper?

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

^ No, for the upshift indicator you need the mini-pcb that goes with it, it's similar to the cruise one you just installed.

brickinthewall

I just found this DIY.

Swapping out the Civic's
However, my wire is like the yellow flat plug, but it has 4 wires in it not 1.

Ok, I figured it out!
On the back of the yellow connector connected to that metal bracket I need to install two pins and connect the cruise control wires (Lt grn/red, LT grn/blk)
And then wire them straight to the Cruise control module.
See :http://s20.photobucket.com/user/Blai...ml?sort=9&o=50

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Yep! Good work.

brickinthewall

Can someone test their CC actuator like the instructions given for testing on :
OEM Cruise Control Swap

Its about mid way thru his DIY.

Specifically tell me if your test for pulling or pushing the cable actually moves the cable. Disconnect the CC cable prior to testing so as to give the same test conditions.

Mine doesnt push or pull but the little motor runs.

Thanks!

brickinthewall

I am going to add my mpguino that I got today to the project.
It says to wire the mpguino to the injector, but I was wondering if the Tach/ignition wire behind the dash would have the same effect?