Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
Synopsis The EG/EH/EJ Honda Civics use a cable-operated cruise control system connected to the pedal assembly under-foot. It was standard equipment on 92-95 Honda Civic 3dr SI/4dr USDM LX & EX, 4dr CDM EX & EX-V/2dr EX(USDM) & SI(CDM). Installing Cruise Control (CC) into your non-CC Civic is a straightforward find-and-replace operation, and can be completed by even inexperienced owners, in my opinion. However, being able to read and understand an automotive wiring diagram and being able to follow directions is imperative. The following guide describes the approximate steps I followed to add CC to a "vanilla" manual-transmission Canadian Domestic Market (CDM) 3dr 1994 Honda Civic CX; the only fancy option this car came with originally was OEM floor mats and mud flaps. It was totally bone stock, and I had only ever put oil, gas and washer fluid into my car in the six years I had owned it up to the point where I added this option. Since then, I have added a number of OEM options, including a Rear Wiper, Headlight Washers, EDM Rear Fog Lamp, Power Locks, Power Windows, Power Folding Heated Mirrors and a Trunk Light, the instructions for some of which I have written up in other DIYs on this site. Herein, I give detailed instructions on what to remove, and *some* details on how to remove it and re-install it, but I EXPECT you to have a USDM/CDM Helms Service Manual to consult for the major details on how to take stuff on your car apart, and for how to access some of the areas I describe below (eg., driver's footwell). No sense in me trying to tell you how to do this, when they have already done an excellent job of it already. Preparation Notes on wiring Wiring will likely take you the MOST amount of time out of all the operations involved in this project. My recommendation is, and if you're like me and want as clean an install as possible, pull the whole dash, gauge cluster and cabin under-dash/footwell wiring harnesses apart and pull whole, uncut wires, starting at the CC brain and going all the way to the respective switches or connections. At the very least, get as much wiring as possible, you will thank me later. If you want to cheat a little, you could cut the wires and pull them through the loom, though it's sometimes difficult to figure out where they go. Pulling ALL the wires, uncut -- while painful -- makes the re-wiring exercise considerably more pleasant, and guarantees you have exactly the right length, gives you the exact OEM wire colours, means you don't have to go out and buy your OWN wire, and will save time stripping and crimping wires back together again (and eliminates the risk of a bad connection due to a poor crimp job). I didn't always follow BLK (ground) wires to their terminal, so buy yourself a 25ft roll of 16 gauge BLK wire, and you'll be set. Wiring Connectors To patch together cut wires, I recommend using Bullet connectors. These attach & detach readily and are self-shielding. I suppose a cautious person would electrical-tape all the connections, but I didn't. You will need a few T-Taps or Wire Tap connectors, too. I purchased my electronics parts over the phone from A-1 Electronics - see http://www.a1parts.com/ (WARNING: TERRIBLE WEBSITE. GODAWFUL.); these had the best prices around Canada that I could find, and domestic shipping was a flat $10. I ordered a pack of 100 for each of Male & Female 14-16 (blue) & 16-18 (red) gauge Bullet connectors, and a pack of 100 of each of 14-16 (blue) & 16-18 gauge wire-taps (T-Taps). Americans can just look on eBay; there's dozens of dealers selling large bulk packs of bullet connectors and wire taps. Pin Removal You'll have to do a bit of this. A tiny screwdriver is your friend. Look up on honda-tech.com the correct way to remove pins from connectors. Note on Order of Operations The instructions, as printed below, aren't necessarily meant to be followed linearly as a step-by-step process of removal and then re-installation. Read the whole thing through, first, to get an idea of what you're up against. You will have to jump around a bit from section to section as you see fit. There is no real "wrong" order to do the install, but you will run in to obvious roadblocks, such as the need to remove the foot pedals from your own vehicle, for example, early on in order to work freely in the cramped driver's footwell... but to do this, I think you also have to remove the steering column, so you'll first have to learn how to remove the steering column properly from your Helms manual. Time Required This project is no cakewalk. It took me about about a day and a half (8am to 5pm) to remove all the parts from a salvage yard wreck. Reinstallation took longer: about two whole long days (7am to 8pm). I was a total novice, though. Disclaimer Every effort has been made to make these instructions as complete and accurate as possible, but no warranty or fitness is implied. The information is provided on an “as is” basis. The author(s) and the website/publisher(s) shall have neither liability nor responsibility to any person or entity with respect to any loss or damages or inconvenience arising from the information contained herein. Read: Don't muck up your vehicle and try to blame me or anyone else without doing your own due diligence and research. Parts Required & Removal Instructions Under Hood
Figure 1. Engine compartment, mid-way through install. (1) is cruise actuator. (2) is new throttle & actuator cable guide (not bolted down yet). (3) is grommet plug in firewall (to be removed). (4) is throttle cable (attached to gas pedal). Figure 2. Engine compartment/firewall. (1) is cruise actuator cable & plug. (2) is firewall grommet (to be removed) and the metal end-cap on the end of actuator cable. (3) is throttle cable. (4) is brake booster and master brake cylinder. Cabin: Dashboard
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...nst_Pedals.jpg Figure 3. Non-cruise (left) vs. cruise pedals. (1a) is 2-pin brake light switch. (1b) is 4-pin cruise switch with added connection to disengage cruise when brake is depressed. (2) is where throttle is attached. (3) is where cruise actuator cable is attached.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0...ootwell_02.jpg Under Hood Figure 4. M/T clutch switches. (1) is M/T clutch CC disengagement switch. (2) is regular "clutch is depressed" switch (don't touch). https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...ootwell_01.jpg Installation Instructions Figure 5. Left side of body in driver's footwell. (1) is top bolt which is very hard to get out. Note large wiring loom above. (2) is brown junction connector between main harness and engine compartment harness. Cruise actuator wires connect through here. (3) is ground bolt, which will be obscured by the cruise brain and bracket. Note 10cm length of BLK wire I extended from this bolt to ease grounding of wiring after installation of bracket.
Cabin: Steering Column
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m..._UDFuseBox.jpg Figure 6. Top of under-dash fuse box. (1) is grey junction connector. (2) is BLU (Ignition coil) wire. (3) is YEL/BLU (Speed Sensor) wire. Test Drive
Good Luck and enjoy 'cruising' around with your upgrade. DeSchlong November, 2008 |
Nice writeup, especially the photos. What you did is very similar to what I did. I am going to link your post from my site. :-) See http://honda.lioness.googlepages.com/cruisecontrol
An excellent resource for depinning Honda electrical connectors appears at http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/B00-039.PDF . |
Very nice write up :)
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great detail! Nice work!
One question though: My hatch has SRS but no CC. Do I still need to replace the clock spring? |
Originally Posted by -[95cxhatch]-
(Post 36495529)
My hatch has SRS but no CC. Do I still need to replace the clock spring?
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What is the first thing I should check because my cruise control on my 92 EH3 is not working. The button light comes on when I press the CC button on the dash but holding or pressing SET never works nor turns on the light in the gauge cluster. My CC used to work a few months ago but I don't remember what exactly I have done since then to make it stop working. But I recall once seeing the CC light on in the gauge cluster!!
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Originally Posted by Dekorum
(Post 36502447)
What is the first thing I should check because my cruise control on my 92 EH3 is not working. The button light comes on when I press the CC button on the dash but holding or pressing SET never works nor turns on the light in the gauge cluster. My CC used to work a few months ago but I don't remember what exactly I have done since then to make it stop working. But I recall once seeing the CC light on in the gauge cluster!!
The most important page of the troubleshooting guide for wires appears as the last photo at http://honda.lioness.googlepages.com/cruisecontrol . My new used CC did not work right after installation. Using the wiring troubleshooting, I very quickly narrowed the problem to the brake switch and the set/resume switch. I simply had not adjusted the brake switch properly. I had monkeyed with the internals of the set/resume switch and had lost a tiny ball bearing that was critical to its operation. I picked one up at the junkyard and put it in. All tests passed. The CC worked. |
my cruise control is still connected and working in my eh3, making 423whp ;]
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Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
I have a NRG quick release shorty hub with a momo wheel. The car has no clock spring anymore. Do you know if it's possible to mount the clock spring with this setup? The car was setup this way when I bought it. I would like to add cruise, but I don't want to mount the set and accel switches somewhere on the dash, I want them on the wheel. Not sure if this is possible however?
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Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
Heres a question as well. Is it possible to not use the main switch with the cruise control? By that I mean can't you just take the blk/yel and lt grn wires to positive so that the system will be on all the time? I don't want to have to turn it on, I'd rather just have it on when I start the car. Do you know?
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Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
@rickkane:
Dang I thought I answered your earlier question. A clock spring with that setup likely will not work. What you need instead is a slip ring from a CDM Civic Si or EX that came with no SRS. You won't find one in your country's junkyards because they didn't exist there... however, it's possible you can order one new from a dealer or online. P/N 35257-SR3-C01 After you tackle that hurdle, then you have to figure out how you're going to mount your switches on the steering wheel. This will obviously be a custom job. As for keeping the main switch ON all the time... initially I guess it seems like it would be fine. However, Honda's engineers are infinitely smarter than both of us ... I would imagine they had a reason why they would have a dashboard mounted main switch, otherwise they woulda saved the production cost of all those switches. I would advise against -- I just don't know why .... yet. I wish I knew where I could tell you to steal a 5-pin connector that matches the one which connects the CDM slip ring. I know I saw one just like it in a stock car. I do know that the Rear Fog Lamp switch and the Headlight Washer switch use the same connector but that doesn't really help you. EDIT: 5-pin connectors can be found in the tail-lamp area of 5G Sedans, and probably Coupes. |
Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
I agree that Honda's engineers are quite alot smarter than I. My main reason for wanting the system on all the time is because I have the coin pocket installed in place of the dimmer/sunroof switch and where the main cc switch would go. So it's kind of me being lazy as well. Thanks for the help though! I suppose I can ditch the coin pocket, and put the on switch in there. I'll check ebay for the slip ring. Cheers.
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Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
You won't find the slip ring on eBay. That thing is so rare and obscure, it never shows up. I've had an automatic search set up for one for about a year and I have never had a hit.
If you got yourself an EDM Rear Defogger switch that mounts on the opposite side of your USDM Rear Defog switch, you could slide your CC main switch in there... that is, if you don't have a Front Fog Lamp switch in there already.... |
Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
Originally Posted by Dekorum
(Post 36502447)
What is the first thing I should check because my cruise control on my 92 EH3 is not working. The button light comes on when I press the CC button on the dash but holding or pressing SET never works nor turns on the light in the gauge cluster. My CC used to work a few months ago but I don't remember what exactly I have done since then to make it stop working. But I recall once seeing the CC light on in the gauge cluster!!
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Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
1 Attachment(s)
So here's how I ended up mounting the cruise controls, since I have the NRG quick release. I'd rather have it on the wheel, but this is working out fine, as I don't have the power mirrors. You recognize that set/resume switch don't you? I just cut the power mirror delete panel to fit the switch, and away it goes. Works brilliantly, and the best part is the wires are still the same colors. Check out the black panel as well, that's why I needed the black climate control! :thumbup:
Originally Posted by DeSchlong
(Post 38021674)
@rickkane:
Dang I thought I answered your earlier question. A clock spring with that setup likely will not work. What you need instead is a slip ring from a CDM Civic Si or EX that came with no SRS. You won't find one in your country's junkyards because they didn't exist there... however, it's possible you can order one new from a dealer or online. P/N 35257-SR3-C01 After you tackle that hurdle, then you have to figure out how you're going to mount your switches on the steering wheel. This will obviously be a custom job. As for keeping the main switch ON all the time... initially I guess it seems like it would be fine. However, Honda's engineers are infinitely smarter than both of us ... I would imagine they had a reason why they would have a dashboard mounted main switch, otherwise they woulda saved the production cost of all those switches. I would advise against -- I just don't know why .... yet. I wish I knew where I could tell you to steal a 5-pin connector that matches the one which connects the CDM slip ring. I know I saw one just like it in a stock car. I do know that the Rear Fog Lamp switch and the Headlight Washer switch use the same connector but that doesn't really help you. |
Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
thats tits! very clean rikkane!
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Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
I pinned the lt grn/blk and lt grn/red wires to the CC connector. Then, I unpinned the lt grn/blk and lt grn/red wires from the SRS connector on my donor car. The donor connector had 4 pins. The only SRS connector I found that looked like the donor vehicle connector has a place for 8 pins. Is this the right one to use?
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Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
^^ Remember - as I wrote in the DIY, I don't have SRS (my car is CDM), so it is difficult for me to know what you are referring to without photos or diagrams if it is related even tangentially to SRS equipment.
Here's another DIY for a USDM vehicle ... possibly the answer is in there? |
Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
Originally Posted by Diverugger
(Post 43310522)
I pinned the lt grn/blk and lt grn/red wires to the CC connector. Then, I unpinned the lt grn/blk and lt grn/red wires from the SRS connector on my donor car. The donor connector had 4 pins. The only SRS connector I found that looked like the donor vehicle connector has a place for 8 pins. Is this the right one to use?
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...e_wires_WM.jpg If you look at figure 6 in DeSchlong's writeup, this connector is located in the upper right corner, just out of camera range. It connects to the existing SRS harness. The two homebrew wires I added are labeled. The four wires in my SRS harness that fed into this connector were all gray, so I couldn't match up wire colors. You'll find two empty terminals in this connector for your donated cruise wires. Make sure the light green/black wire is the one connected to the outside terminal and you should be all set. |
Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
I have installed all the used CC components in my '95 VX. The CC does not work and I found the brake light switch in the pedal with a short. I fixed the brake light switch short. I have gone through all the steps in the shop manual and replaced the CC control module and the actuator. I still cannot get it to work. Is there any other troubleshooting I can do? The only thing that did not jive was the rotation of the front tire off the ground and getting 0-5 volts alternating on the yelow/blue wire from the speed sensor. I only get 0-4.7volts. Could this cause the CC to not work? Is the VSS bad?
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Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
Originally Posted by Diverugger
(Post 43683457)
I have installed all the used CC components in my '95 VX. The CC does not work and I found the brake light switch in the pedal with a short. I fixed the brake light switch short. I have gone through all the steps in the shop manual and replaced the CC control module and the actuator. I still cannot get it to work. Is there any other troubleshooting I can do? The only thing that did not jive was the rotation of the front tire off the ground and getting 0-5 volts alternating on the yelow/blue wire from the speed sensor. I only get 0-4.7volts. Could this cause the CC to not work? Is the VSS bad?
Are the rubber stoppers that press on the brake and clutch switches damaged or missing? You should give more details about your problem. Does the light in the cc button or in the cluster turn on when you try to activate cc? |
Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
^ Agree with RonJ - we need more details about the problem. It looks like the issue dates back to your earlier post back in August - so we also need more timely responses in order to help. Meanwhile, here is the troubleshooting diagram. Have you checked all your grounds? Have you double and triple checked all your wiring? A systematic approach is the only way to solve this.
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_dKrAeypy4kc/S4...c_Page_253.jpg |
Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
I have checked the stops on the brake and clutch to make sure they are not damaged. I did have to replace the brake switch during the first round of troubleshooting. I will go through the wiring again with a fine tooth comb. I guess it's the only way to figure it out. The cc light never comes on the gauge cluster when I hit the set switch on the steering wheel. The cc light does come on in the guage cluster when i run the test for the red/blue wire.
The light also comes on in the dash switch when I push the switch to turn it on. I have been using the table on page 23-257 from the shop manual to trouble shoot each circuit. Any other suggestions will certainly help. I will work on checking all the circuit grounds and continuity. |
Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
Have you tested the Set/Resume switch, as well as the Brake and Clutch pedal switches?
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Re: Honda Civic 92-95 EG/EH/EJ OEM Cruise Control Install Guide – Manual Transmission
Yes, I checked the set/resume switches and the horn blows during those tests. The clutch and brake pedal swithes test out correctly, as well.
Finally, checked all the grounds. All were good. However, the ground for the horns was not there as shown in the schematic. The original wiring had the white/green wire routed and connected correctly, to the horn relay. In addition the white/green wire was also routed to where the black ground wire should have been connected to the horn relay. The horn does work. I disconnected the white/green lead from the relay (where the ground is shown in the schematic for a VX without cruise and with SRS) and connected a ground wire there to the relay. Then the horn did not work. I have not chased the white/green and red/blue wires all the way to the horn yet. Thought the grounding might be out there. Any thoughts? |
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