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Lovingly used but tired Honda Civic 1998 4 door. It most likely needs the CPS reinstalled. It cuts out in traffic, has very little pep, and the RPMS fluctuate. It also has hard start/stall issues. The code coming from the OBD scan is P0335 as well as P0705.
My uncle has agreed to help me and my friend put a new CPS in, and they are about 30 bucks, but the local advance auto (And this is a very rural town) says they do not know whats in there.
Can anyone help me before we rip the car apart, perhaps a honda mech or ...
I can provide any info needed
thanks again, I think once the CPS is replaced she will have a new lease on life.
If the CKP (CPS) fails the ohm test, you would replace the whole distributor. The sensors inside the distributor are not considered field-replaceable and generally not sold separately.
After replacing distributor you need to set the timing with a timing light.
Also the #1 rule of rebuilt parts is NEVER turn in your "core" part until after the new one is on the car and working.
If the CKP (CPS) fails the ohm test, you would replace the whole distributor. The sensors inside the distributor are not considered field-replaceable and generally not sold separately.
After replacing distributor you need to set the timing with a timing light.
Also the #1 rule of rebuilt parts is NEVER turn in your "core" part until after the new one is on the car and working.
Advance auto screen based on VIN Honda part # and dealer price Advance auto parts order screen
On the 96-00 I think there is a crank sensor on the crank snout. That is the sensor you are looking at in your "shopping cart" The CYP sensor is in the distributor and like mk378 said it's not sold separately or considered replaceable outside of a new distributor.
On the 96-00 I think there is a crank sensor on the crank snout. That is the sensor you are looking at in your "shopping cart" The CYP sensor is in the distributor and like mk378 said it's not sold separately or considered replaceable outside of a new distributor.
FYI - Code P0335 is for the distributor CKP sensor circuit not the CYP sensor circuit. And it's currently unclear whether the CKP sensor is bad.
On the 96-00 I think there is a crank sensor on the crank snout. That is the sensor you are looking at in your "shopping cart" The CYP sensor is in the distributor and like mk378 said it's not sold separately or considered replaceable outside of a new distributor.
TomCat, the sensor you are referring to is actually the CKF (Crankshaft Fluctuation Sensor) and this sensor does not correspond to the code that the OP has given. Incidentally, a failure of this sensor WILL cause a reduced engine redline... some might call this limp mode or safe mode.
FYI - Code P0335 is for the distributor CKP sensor circuit not the CYP sensor circuit. And it's currently unclear whether the CKP sensor is bad.
Originally Posted by JRCivic1
TomCat, the sensor you are referring to is actually the CKF (Crankshaft Fluctuation Sensor) and this sensor does not correspond to the code that the OP has given. Incidentally, a failure of this sensor WILL cause a reduced engine redline... some might call this limp mode or safe mode.
Thank you guys. It was my understanding the CKP/CYP/TDC sensor is the same sensor in the distributor. I did a failed attempt to point out to the OP that the sensor he was indicating isn't that sensor in question but the one on the crank snout which I couldn't remember the name off the top of my head. Kindly indicated as the CKF sensor and doesn't actually tell the ECU the precise position of the crank as much as speed revolutions to catch variations (skipped tooth).
OP as these two gentleman pointed out, the CKF sensor in your shopping cart isn't the one causing your code.
its been a busy few days, I DID NOT buy the sensor. The car is still running. I took it to Portland Maine this weekend. I live in Rochester NH (About a hour away). On the turnpike the car started "lurching" and no matter how hard I pressed the accelerator it would not go above 45, it dropped to 40 and then magically it went back to normal. It reminded me of the old cars when we would put bad gas in them and have to clean the carbs out. The car also shows signs of loss of power during the shifting process and sometimes it will still stall.
The important thing for me right now is its running. My uncle has said in two weeks if we can get a bead on the problem (which I know you guys here are trying to help with) we will tear into it and try to fix it. He has offered a pickup (5 speed) as a loan if the car fails, and has a car trailer in case it does break down somewhere. So no tow fees and a backup truck keeps me driving it to and from work (Which is about 11 miles one way to the interstate and i work right off of there) . I am limiting all other uses at this time.
I do want to solve this, on my way back from Portland the other night my uncle had me stop by and he pulled the distributor cap off, thinking it might be moisture. The cap was solid, no cracks and no moisture, but it was a guess at least.
I understand now the OHM tests, and also the sensor is not the issue, I am on the same page and appreciate any help. Ill run those tests soon!
We will be running these tests today! Ill report back soon. I have driven the car over 400 miles since last report. She is still functioning good. The random loss of power is still there and sometimes on the highway she will not go over 40mph. When she cuts out if i give her gas she starts to shut down, and still occasional stalls.
worked for 4 hours, finally got connector off but lost track of what to do after that, we also tore the door off to see if we could fix the lock switch not working, honestly its not my car and I am tired of dealing with it, Ill drive it until it dies. Then Ill use my uncles truck to finish the deployment.
I am sure for the mechanically minded this is a fast fix, but I stared at that attachment all day today, and I know I am missing something, but then again no one on here could realign a 200 port Cisco switch and power boot an AS400 with SCSI drives for secure configuration, so there is that
Oh well, write back if I missed something
thanks guys, the car is buttoned back up but the tabs on the "Easy to remove" connector is now broke, so I can go downstairs and pull the connector anytime easily once I have CLEAR instructions
The distributor connector is removed in two steps. First lift plastic tab that holds connector onto metal bracket and lift upward. Second, uncouple the connector itself.
However, you should first do the test on the ECU connector not the distributor connector, as mentioned in my post you quoted.
Sorry to bring up an old thread and I hope I'm not hijacking since the OP seems to have given up.
But I'm having this exact issue with my '98 Civic and this is more of a continuation of the line of thinking. The thread so far is super helpful.
1998 Civic 4-dr sedan.
Manual transmission.
Canadian built (VIN code started with a 2).
268k miles.
Was tossing error code P0335.
Running fine, but at least a few rotations before it fired when starting.
I replaced the CKF based on some misinformation I found and my own gaps in logic and still am getting the code.
I was using the AllDataDIY manual and it's not as good as the scans you posted. What manual is that from, MuellersFan?
There seems to be a bit of misinformation out there and my own misdiagnosis, so I too fell into the trap. I replaced my CKF, since it was on the crank and some info pointed in that direction. I now realize that it was a CKP error code that presented. But now I'm trying to buy the CKP and the sites keep trying to sell me the CKF. Any suggestions?
Last edited by mattfranklin; 10-15-2019 at 12:24 PM.
Reason: forgot some stuff
If you are getting a CEL on and active code while driving, ohm test the distributor sensors. If that's OK plug the distributor back in and ohm test the sensors again all the way from the ECU plugs to see if there's a problem with the car wiring. If there isn't an active CEL just an occasional stored code there isn't much you can do except wait for it to get worse, because it's going to test OK almost all of the time.
Do make sure the separator plate under the rotor is in place in your distributor because without it sparks can jump into the low voltage side and cause problems.
The sensors inside the distributor are going to be very hard to buy separately. Ever since the beginning Honda considered the bottom half of the distributor with the sensors a part to replace as a unit. You can try your luck with one of the Chinese clone distributors, find a good used one, or swap parts between a used one and yours.
Thanks for the guidance. I did the ohm test with the engine cold directly on the distributor. All three circuits were fine and around 405-420 ohms, except that occasionally pins 2/6 would go open circuit. But then be ok, and consistently ok. I thought maybe it was a little corrosion, so I reconnected the plug several times. Cleared the code and started it and ran it 15 minutes. All good. Then when out for a test drive and the CEL came on again, consistently with the P0335 code. And the engine would not rev. Whenever I revved it, it was like I was hitting against the rev-limiter ceiling. When I got back home I did the ohms check and thankfully it was a full fail for pins 2 & 6. Open circuit. So I ordered a new distributor from Billionaire Bezos.
TO BE CONTINUED.
Last edited by mattfranklin; 10-15-2019 at 12:26 PM.
The new distributor is in, the engine starts and runs great, and the car is smogged.
I wound up spending a little more on the distributor ($90) instead of going for the lowest price I saw ($60).
It said something about using electronics from Japan rather than China. I didn't know what else to go on.
It was about a ten minute job.
Thanks again for the help, guys! I wish I'd come here first.
@muellersfan - thank you for confirming my worse suspicions, my 1998 Honda Civic EX 256K was throwing the dreaded P0335 CEL, after reading many misleading articles that code is the sensor near the crank. Fortunately, my civic was due for a timing belt job, so over the weekend I replaced the timing belt, water pump, that sensor (cost me $15 form Advance Auto), PS/ALT/AC belts. Only to find the P0335 code still persists. So, that when i started with the distributor terminals and sure enough the 2-6 pins were open, 3-7 and 4-8 were good.
I did not suspect my dizzy because, its was replaced 3 years ago with a new Chinese made one, but you get what you pay for, still looks nice and shiny on the outside.
Just ordered another dizzy from eBay, one they claim has Japanese parts...
Thanks again for your article, I also downloaded the Helms manual online so I see 11-172 page - and weird enough NOT a mention of the crank sensor.
@Jaycivic2020 not sure what you mean by aligning a 200 port Cisco switch, and not sure if Cisco ever makes a 200 port switch, most I've worked on are 24, 48 or 96 ports but mostly 24 ports
Most Cisco switches have a series 2400 / 3700 series etc. But yea, every day I login to a few of those to do routine administration.
As for AS/400 - if you're still using that term then you're stuck in the 90's dude, they dont call them that anymore - its called the iSeries now, IBM has a long time ago realigned their systems to be iSeries, pSeries or eSeries
and no they dont use SCSI drives any more dude, that ancient history. BTW I started with that line when it was a SYSTEM 36 then SYSTEM 38
The boot process for an iSeries is called IPL (you might want to look that up)
07-05-2019, 06:17 AM
Honda 98 Civic (Needs CPS)
