SouthSider13

Went a little to crazy on the freeway the other day now I my car is underpowered and is boggles down almost about to die then comes back. Timming is fine but one cylinder has no compression
Anyone have any suggestions on what it could be?

JonBrown

on a conventional motor it could be a bent valve but idk if b series are non contact or not. or it could be a blown head gasket. is there any coolant in your oil? or does it overheat at all?
and by "going crazy on the freeway" what do you mean? high speed or too much of a downshift?

crazyheadrush

Sounds like the valves are stuck open(bent).

EJeff8

Somebody was going so fast, the wind was louder then you hitting and staying on rev limiter huh? Bummer.

SouthSider13

Hahahahaa I read that and said "At least I beat that *itch in the IS300"
But I'm pretty sure it was the constant 5th-3rd DS and stupid medicated me holding my revs at 7K.
My uncle mechanic also suggested a bend valve :/ Now I have a couple of Q.
How long can I drive around with 3 cylinders safely?
How much would it to fix the head? Worth It?
Or should I go with my plans of a B20V?
My final goal is to have 190ish WHP N/A

zoopreme

not safe at all dont drive it at all take care of the problem i had the issue blew my motor

300whpej

the motor is toast. you should never drop to 3rd gear with a gsr/b16/itr tranny on the highway, unless you are going about 60...from 80mph dropping into 3rd would have put you bouncing off of 8200 or so. the b16 is a rev happy motor, so running 7k shouldnt have hurt it too badly unless you were riding around like that. the head will need to be machined if you ever plan to use it again and will need to be pretty built along with the motor tuned to effectively get 190whp out of the b20.

Hanmin

You can drive 3 cylinders safely forever, just stop the broken cylinder's fuel.

If you were upgrading, then fixing would be economical. But buying new stock parts for the head? maybe buying a new head would be best.

SouthSider13

I was holding it around 7-8K so yea
I have the basic I/H/E also no AC or PS and running pretty light so I put my WHP at 150ish. And before this whole valve mess I would stay next to A4, IS, and most V6 so 190HP is the dream. Maybe like 170-180 and I would wet myself. And I know stock B20V get around 170HP and way more torque than the B16. So I rather get that but since I lost my job my parents are gonna be paying for the repair.

How much would I be looking on spending if I just fixed the head? Would the block be hurt after driving 70 miles?

dxlol

do more research into b20v. i think you will find that they generally aren't the longest lasting motors.. fix yours. i got a head machined at a shop for about 350. sounds expensive but think about it, machined head is something that you only have to do once in a blue moon (if you learn from your mistake). lol

apexi_rsx

racing on the highway sooo cooOOOL! the b16 is overated ive seen a hatch with a z6 run a 15.5. why not boost a d series and make 200hp easily

SouthSider13

Oh because hatchbacks are soooooo cooool too=P
Why down grade to a D when all I have to do is fix the head?
Might as well boost the B=D

apexi_rsx

maybe he wont over rev it this time thinkin reving to 9k is cool all the time. most hp falls off by then anyway

Red_Army

buy a whole new d just to get to 200 or mill a head and boost a b easily to 300?

HiProfile

1) Until the valve stem fatiques enough and breaks loose. So enough time to pull into the garage.

2) Usually just new valves are needed, so you'd probably need a head gasket, IM gasket, and 1-16 valves. $100-400. It's worth it since most used heads have some issue.

3) B20V would not replace the problematic part, just fix the old problem (no displacement!)

4) 190whp NA is weaksauce. I got a chance to pit my 189whp sohc against my friend's 193whp ITR (dyno'd on same dyno). I walked him 40-90mph twice. He even used an extra gear, as I'm using a DX tranny.

Red_Army

yea but id imagine your 189 was quite a bit more built then his 193 whp.
just saying that isn't a good comparision.

SouthSider13

Okay I'm pretty sure I won't be getting the head fixed.
Instead I am looking for B18c or B20Vtec. I feel pretty confident buying a B20v but I need ARP rod bolts and head studs

98civdx

Stop the bad clynder from getting fuel and baby it, and you should ok

You could do 190 na with b20v preety easily, saw a b20v put 190ish@wheels gsr head,ctr cams and tune

SouthSider13

Thinking this one ?
http://www.HondaMarketplace.com/show....php?t=2771570

dizzyroc88

i was making 201/152 on stock block and head. now 218/164 after port and polish, new tune, and a couple minor tweaks

daily driven and extremely reliable. its all in how you put it together and how its driven. you cant cut any corners when buying parts and if you plan on driving bouncing off the rev limiter everywhere you go dont expect ANY motor to last long

old tune

hoffmanb16

mmmmmmmmmm I like ^^^^^


Id would buy the motor you posted..... It's even comp tested, that is worth allot of piece of mind... see if he will take a grand and then you got a decent deal IMO...

I am also going b20 vtec... I think every b16a owner wants this setup.... mmmmm torque.

I would buy that before I fixed your motor because in the end all you would have is another b16... and with this well... you got the poor mans K20.... HELL YA DOOOOOO IT!