jimmy o.

I'm having problems getting my b18c to idle (beginning to think these cars weren't designed to idle lol) it idles around 1400 most of the time unless the a/c is on it may go down tO 1000 but will buck and jerk when u try to give it gas

Also you have to give it gas on start up or it'll sit there and fluctuate and **** me off and throw code 14 of course but usually the light will stay off.

I've done

Checked tps (key on engine off)
Cleaned iacv and replaced no dice
Checked timing
Sprayed for vacuum leaks...nothing 22 hg at 750 rpm (iacv unPlugged of course)
Coolant level is full
Idle adjustment screw is all the way down
Running on chipped p28

Is there something Im missing the exhaust smells kinda bad at wot dunno if that helps

Any ideas sO many people have this problem I've yet to find anyone who actually fixed one (several google searches) and if they did they failed to explain how...

Thanks

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

I had a similar problem when I bought my car. Previous owner never replaced the IACV, so he bought one for a B16, zip-tied it to a brake line on the firewall and plugged it into the engine harness. Part of it was the chipped ECU too.

jimmy o.

Well I'm using a iacv off an auto 96 LS I didn't think there'd be a difference if they all bolted on:.. Maybe I should try a new one

BlueIntegraBoy

iTrader: (5)

I noticed that the ports on the B18C IACV were larger than a non-B18C.

DeLSoLRo

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/19...iming-adj.html

check that out go one by one and see what you can find. if all else fails try switching ecu with a buddy and see if it still does it.

jimmy o.

It not the ecu the ecu is almost never the problem I've been thru 2 of them when I pulled the part number for the stock iacv it shows to work on manual integras as well as the b18c-r the only thing I can think of is the auto integras utilizing a fast idle thermo valve

I've put my ecu on good running cars and they ran fine

DeLSoLRo

take the cap off the fitv, lower the screw all the way in and see if that works.

CrAzE191st

how about just unplugging the iacv altogether and running it like that?

Deetz

I don't know why, but i've sold a few type r swaps, this seems to be a common issue.

For my own car, i ditched the P73 intake manifold for a P30 one for better results

yourboyluigi09

you'd be surprised about it being the ecu...on the ek 4 door 5 speed i have...if im not mistaken is the p2j ecu..has a atmospheric pressure sensor(barometer) inside the ecu that messes with the engine idling/performance if the sensor inside the ecu was bad...meaning you need a new one.

BootLip

Just had same problem. I recalibrated tps, cleaned IACV, turned tb idle screw in, and nothing! Took apart the FITV valve under the TB. Cleaned it put it back on. Started the car, perfect idle!

Super east to do. Remove the intake, locate the fitv directly under the TB, remove one coolant line from fitv, remove 3 10mm bolts, with fitv off... Remove 2 8mm bolts off back of valve, unscrew guts and clean. repeat backwards.

jimmy o.

There's no fitv on it the engine doesn't use one
Its a 94 it's running on a chipped p28 I've tried 2 others no change and they where on good running cars

On to the intake why would the p73 intake cause a bad idle why would using the p30 b16 mani be beneficial

Deetz

I don't know what the deal is with the P73 intake manifold, but personally i don't like it. The P30 is the 2nd gen B16 manifold, and on the street outperforms the itr anyway.

I have seen dyno's even on the larger B20 vtec swaps using the PR3 head.....with more power being made on the P30 than the P73. The ITR manifold does have a spike in power, after 8000rpm, but that really doesn't make up for the rest of the power band

BryCivicSi

I am not completely familiar with the B18C so bare with me here. You seem to stuck on working the TPS and IAC. How are any of the other sensors like MAP or MAF, IAT, ECT. You have access to a scan tool to check fuel trims? Can you pull a plug and if so, what color is it? Does the exhaust at idle have a distinctive color or smell?

jimmy o.

hondas don't use maf's
I swapped all the other sensors u mentioned above no change

Obd1 cars dont have a diagnostic port like on obd2 cars where you can check parameters and monitor things (that'd make my life easier too bad I don't like ek's lol)

It does smell bad under hard acceleration theres no cat on it

Tps tested ok last time I checked it .49 closed and 4.49 wot

jimmy o.

Is it a good bit of improvement just curious although I'm not too worried about making power at the moment just tring to figure out the stupid idle if it's one thing hondas suck at it's idling lol

BryCivicSi

No cat so you are using dummy o2 or none at all?

Are you simply testing sensors and not the connections, connectors, and wires themselves? For example, TPS could be reading .49-4.49 all day but if the PCM isn't getting the signal cause there is a loose connection in the signal circuit, it doesn't matter, you understand?

jimmy o.

There's only one o2 on the car so no need for the cat
(unless u have emissions)

The only code I ever got was 14 for idle air control system malfunction

If I can't figure it out soon it's gonna go to the shop so they can tell me what I need to do to it I'm tired of troubleshooting time to let someone else deal with my headache

BryCivicSi

If you have access to the IAC that comes stock with the engine, I would try that. The passage may be a different shape or size which could allow a different amount of air in. Or the PCM is expecting a slight difference in voltage compared to the LS one you have on it now.
It is just weird if you have the idle adjustment screw all the way down. Can you check the throttle body to see if is sticking open even the slightest? Or want to just give it a good cleaning? Maybe there is some carbon buildup or something on the throttle plate keeping it from shutting completely at idle.

jimmy o.

I've cleaned the throttle body already

The oe iacv did the same thing...

Also unplugged it has the jerk in acceleration around 1100 rpm

BryCivicSi

Curious- is this a new symptom or did you just finish a swap and you high idle? I am curious cause I want to know if your car with this swap and this setup has worked properly before or not.

jimmy o.

The car never ran properly since I've had it I traded my del sol for it about 6 months ago

BryCivicSi

What car is that engine from and what car do you have again? I will try and pull up some diagnostic charts tomorrow for both and see if either lead me anywhere.

jimmy o.

It's a 94 civic ex
With a 96 spec jdm itr (b18c)

jimmy o.

TtT