5thgencivic

I've done a lot of searches so don't tell me to search hehe I put a GSR swap in a 98 hatch. It has a victor x intake manifold on it. I can not get it to idle under 2K when cold or when warm. I have tried the following:

-Swapped with 3 different iacv's that were just working on the cars they were pulled off of.
-Tried 2 different throttle body's both with new gaskets. One with no FITV, the other one with which I tightened all the way down.
-Swapped coolant lines around
-Retightened manifold studs
-Pulled throttle body again to make sure gasket wasn't leaking

If I plug the port going to the iacv with my finger the car idles right where it should be ~750. So it has to be something with the iacv or something tied into it. There are no check engine lights. This harness I bought was hacked to **** so I'm thinking it might be that? But when I pull the plug off of the iacv it throws a code so I know it's going to the ecu. Does the other wire go to the relay? Or both go to the ecu? Thinkin the next open is to hard wire it. Any help is appreciated. I haven't posted in this forum in years lol

Gadget

plug the lower of the 2 ports in the Throttlebody (Just forward of the butterfly plate).. (Assuming you're using a OBD1 throttlebody) if it changes idle and runs normally, your Thermal IAC is leaking and needs to be adjusted.. If you plug BOTH ports in the throttlebody, the engine should almost immediately stall..

Alot of times people use OBD2 TB's with OBD1 gaskets etc.. it just creates leaks..

You need to place the gasket on the TB and make sure it correctly outlines all passenges, then check it again on the manifold to make sure it lines up correctly with everything on the manifold.. id sounds hella gay, but If you have an intake leak, that's where it'll be...

If you had faulty wiring the IACV wouldn't allow air to bypass hence the engine would still run at the same speed if you plugged the hole for the IACV.. Also if you wiring was wrong, you'd throw code 14 for the IACV..

straywalker

Are you using a 3 wire or 2 wire IACV. This diagram below will help you determine how to wire up the IACV.


<img src"http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDQ4MDEzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg">

5thgencivic

It's not the FITV. No change when the bottom port is plugged and one throttle body doesn't have the FITV.

Matched both gaskets to the throttle body's. One's a gsr with gsr gasket, one's a B16 with b16 gasket.

Using a 2 wire IACV, but I'm not sure if this harness was originally for a 3 wire. I can unplug the iacv, leave the iacv on the manifold and plug in another iacv just laying in the bay and it will idle at like 1200 and run great. I've also tried a different ecu as well.

Thanks for the help guys.

Gadget

ok.. for the engine to idle at 1200 with no IACV you have a really large vacuume leak..

You say you have a GSR and a B16 Throttle body? Both OBD2 it sounds like because there's no Thermal IAC.. Correct?

What I was saying is make sure the gasket matches the intake AND the tb..

Also the Victor X has 4 injectors under the intake.. Make sure you don't have a vacume leak due to a loose fuel rail or pinched seal.. Check the top row of injectors too..

I'm not sure how your TB is adjusted, but the butterfly plate should NOT allow any air to pass into the manifold at idle.. you can check this by removing the throttlebody and with the snout pointing up you can spray a little carb cleaner (or pour a little water in it).. let it puddle around the top and the bottom of the butterfly plate and the houseing.. it should not leak... if it does, you need to adjust your throttle stop screw til the butterfly plate is as far closed as you can get it without sticking shut.. (you should be able to lightly snap it shut then open it effortlessly if adjusted correctly.)

what kind of condition is your brake booster in? disconnect the brake booster hose from your manifold and physically plug the hole with your finger or a vacuume cap..

Make sure your throttle cable has slack in it when installed.. If it's idling at 2k and not going into fuel cut, (Revving up ~2000 rpm, then shutting off until about 700-1000 rpm) the problem might lie within your throttle system.. if the ECU don't see idle (.4-.5v signal on the TPS signal wire) it won't go into fuel cut.. Which means your throttle is stuck partially open or your throttle cable is holding it open..

Just a shot in the dark..