slowej22192

So I bought a b18a1 freshly rebuilt. New oem LS rods with CTR pistons(11.5:1) which the non vtec head make it about 11.2:1 CR. Port and Polished head with port matched Skunk2 Manifold, ARP rod and main bolts as well as ARP head studs and acl race bearings. Whole rotating assembly balanced as well as crank micropolished. Hondata intake mani gasket as well as toda knockoff stainless header. Oh yeah it's also bored .020 over. This engine was done right, it came out of this guys scca roadrace DA and I'm really excited to drive it. I have a hydro gsr(non-lsd). This is in an EJ2 and I know I shoulda went B18b but I got a good deal on the engine and I bent a rod in the B18b I had in it previously. Hit it a little too hard in the rain on bald tires and bounced the rev limiter for the last time on that swap lol Well anyways I got it all together and was getting ready to take it for a short drive when the clutch wouldnt disengage. I am completely mind blown at this time. Seems to be the same symptoms every one else has with the popped or broken springs in the clutch disc. Will shift through all gears when engine off but when its on it will not go into gear because clutch wont disengage. Fluid level good no leaks. I bled for a few minutes and got no air out of bleeder. I dropped the trans again and figured i broke the clutch disc or maybe during assembly popped a spring or broke the splines out of the disc when the input shaft went through. Nothing, good clutch pressure plate and TO bearing. Seems like the input shaft is too long on the gsr hydro. Does anyone know what this could be. BTW the clutch setup is a competition stage 3 with a competition 12lb. flywheel. Took the whole clutch pressure plate and flywheel off b18b and bolted onto the a1 so I know it was functioning fine as well as the s80 trans because it was on the b1. Please help, running out of time. If I cant fix it its going up for sale.