kay_animation

Edit :: Here's the deal. I'll go at it again this weekend with all suggested ideas. If somebodies idea works, they get a free CUSCO white laniard from the JGTC race in california

Alright, here goes. This is the last thing on my (Annoying car fixes) list.

But for the life of me, I CAN'T seperate the front passenger side lower control arm from the knuckle.

I need this just for my mental well being, as well as being able to easily change axles/tranny's, etc.

Thing's I have tried so far...

I got a puller:


and tried to seperate them that way. The result was the actual bolt started to crush and I had to give up that idea. The bolt is fine now btw.

Then I tried hitting the lca on the sides which some friends said. Started from a little hammer to a sludge hammer. No luck.

Finally, last weekend, I took a steel pick with a wedged tip and tried to bang it in between the ledge of the knuckle and the lca. No budge. Am I just special? I have done many suspension in the past and this is the first one that has ever given me this problem.

I'm about ready to just take it to the dealership and have them seperate it for 120 or so they said. So 120 for them to take the cotter pin out, remove the bolt, (magically seperate them), then give me my car back.

For picture people, i'm trying to get bolt #3 out of the lower control arm.





I'm leaving work right now, so I'll look at answers when I get home.

Please help. If you're idea works, I'll reward ya


Modified by kay_animation at 4:30 PM 1/12/2006

Ricey McRicerton

You can try a pickel fork to seperate them.

You can hammer on the bottom of the bolt that goes through the LCA as long as you don't mushroom it.

senpai

stick a socket wrench between the knuckle and the lca then get a fat person to step on the knuckle - pop goes the cherry

kay_animation

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by senpai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stick a socket wrench between the knuckle and the lca then get a fat person to step on the knuckle - pop goes the cherry</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have tried that before. John is kinda big, but he's loosing weight

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can try a pickel fork to seperate them.

You can hammer on the bottom of the bolt that goes through the LCA as long as you don't mushroom it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I tried that, and then I tried that puller tool above and that's when it started mushrooming.

Not sure what to try next. What does honda use? Is there and Official seperator tool made just for this

MikeD718

i have rented a balljoint puller from autozone in the past when i had to seperate mine works like a puller but has a wedge fork to get between the balljoint and lca.

BignevadaBoB

jack up in the lca first then stick the back end of a socket wrench (3/8 craftsman) the long way up/down between the two, then lower the jack and is should pop out.

hope this makes sense, there was a how too with pics on here somewhere.

Ricey McRicerton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeD718 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have rented a balljoint puller from autozone in the past when i had to seperate mine works like a puller but has a wedge fork to get between the balljoint and lca.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats exactly how I've gotten mine out. Put some muscle behind it.

Good ol' Screwtape

Try placing a small hydraulic jack under the hub (or rotor, if it's still on there) and jack up the entire assembly (assuming the knuckle is still connected to the upper arm) so that there is no weight on your lower control arm. Maybe jack it up enough so the lower arm is about parallel to the ground? (The goal is to have the assembly in such a position that the bolt going through the lower arm can be removed straight out, as opposed to being removed at an angle and to relieve any of the weight supported by the lower arm)

Take a hammer (not some rubber mallet) and give this part (pic below, arrow) a few generous whacks on both sides. It should break loose. If it doesn't pop off slightly, hit it a couple more times then take a rubber mallet and tap on the lower control arm from the top (i.e. pushing it down toward the ground) and it should come off.

If not, then WOW, for a car that's less than 10 years old.



And, well, here's a stupid question, and I don't mean to insult you (but someone has to ask an obvious question)...but just in case: You removed the castle nut and cotter pin first, right?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kay_animation &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm about ready to just take it to the dealership and have them seperate it for 120 or so they said. So 120 for them to take the cotter pin out, remove the bolt, (magically seperate them), then give me my car back.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're going to take it to a shop for such a generally easy task, you don't need the "expertise" of Honda technicians and the high price tags that come with them. If you must take it to a shop, take it to some other auto-service company (i.e. Midas, Goodyear).

swappedcx

exactly what i did, and do to every car at work, which includes cars alot older than a 99.

On my 97 cx I just wacked the lower control arm by the ball joint about 8-10 times pretty friggen hard, and then just pushed dont and they both popped out no problem.
If you use the method above and get no where you have major issues.

SOHCD16y8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by senpai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stick a socket wrench between the knuckle and the lca then get a fat person to step on the knuckle - pop goes the cherry</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what has always worked for me, try again but kick down instead of just standing on it.

pdiggitydogg

very surprising that the ratchet in between the knuckle and lca didnt pop it...very very surprising

It always worked for me, flawlessly, on any civic that Ive ever done it on

eXcelonTypeR

Pickle fork and a hammer. I do it all the time with rusted up Maserati parts, just gotta tell the balljoint whos boss. alos with the pickle fork make sure it's big enough that it won't get stuck on the balljoint.

99blackcivicSi

put a jack under the rotor

jack rotor up

hit the LCA with a large hammer

it will come right off

NEVER had one that couldn't

im done

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99blackcivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put a jack under the rotor

jack rotor up

hit the LCA with a large hammer

it will come right off

NEVER had one that couldn't </TD></TR></TABLE>

98akcivic

bolt 3 is actually your lower ball joint.
take out the cotter pin, loosen and remove the castle nut.
make sure you leave the upper ball joint tightened so that there is tension on the lower ball joint.
take a nice sized brass hammer and hit on the left or right side on the lower control arm or knuckle. this may take a few times. be careful not to hit the ball joint and put a hole in the boot of the joint.
also spray some pb blaster or wd-40 around the lower ball joint to help loosen it.

+i take it you are eitherreplacing you ball joints or wheel bearings. as i have done this plenty of times on my hondas. i am actually waitng for my new wheel bearings to come in so i can replace them. and i had to do the same thing.

hope this helps.

EDIT: if you are trying to remove the BALL JOINT itself you have to press them out with a hydraulic press!!!! you are not gonna do this with any hand tool! I guarantee that! I changed out my ball joint using our 2 ton press at my shop.

99blackcivicSi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98akcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EDIT: if you are trying to remove the BALL JOINT itself you have to press them out with a hydraulic press!!!! you are not gonna do this with any hand tool! I guarantee that! I changed out my ball joint using our 2 ton press at my shop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Time, Torch, hammer, vice, good puller

i have done it

Bakeoff

If they stick for me, I torch them with a cheap Map gas torch from walmart, then hit it with the pickle fork. I've never seen it not work.

pdiggitydogg

the hammer thing only works where theres not much corrosion (ie warmer climates - Va, Ca, Fl, etc)

mxpx035

you can also use a airchisel with a pickle fork on the end or a 16oz or larger ball peen and always lots of pb blaster