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i just switched out the brake booster on my 95 civic ex due to the fact that an o ring inside was sticking on the pushrod and making a popping noise

after bleeding the brakes i took it out on a test drive, after about 1.5 miles, the car started slowing down and i smelt the brakes burning up. the pedal is all the way up at the top and firm there, does not travel any before getting firm!!

what is this? is it the brake booster or the pushrod on the brake booster that is not adjusted right? the car is sitting in a parking lot nearby and i am waiting to find out what to do to it!!!!!!!!

or do u think that the pushrod on the brake booster just needs to be adjusted, if so in what direction and how much do you think?

i did notice that after installing, i had to adjust the brake light switch cause it said that the brakes were on all the time right after i had installed it???? i bet that has something to do with it

please help

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anyone got an idea

2lua

did you check and measure the push rod of the old bb and adjusted the new bb?

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no.. i noticed when i was returning the old bb for the core that i needed the peice that attches the pedal to the booster, but the buy took the old one off before i had a chance to measure.. what should i go by now?

2lua

you might try to turn the bracket that hook to the brake pedal in slowly. or you can remove the bb check the measurement on it. it should be around 116mm or 4.6 inches from the base of the bb to the center of the push rod clevis.

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il give it a shot in the morning hours when there is light... or i may try and do a nightime repair in the parking lot lol

pdiggitydogg

Yeah, my bet is on the adjustment rod

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, my bet is on the adjustment rod</TD></TR></TABLE>

is there any trick to it with it being installed? or do all i need is a wrech to adjust it while installed?

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i adjusted the adjustment rod.. seemed to be correct. then after driving about 1.3 miles, the pedal started getting stiff again... now the brakes are on all the time again.. is the brake booster that i just replaced bad? sucking in more air all the time and gradually making it worse?

2lua

check you bb check valve see if it backward or bad.

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the valve can not be seen from the outside of the booster.. my guess is that it is recessed down into the booster and probably cannot be adjusted form the outside..

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OK. WTF is going on? i disconnected the vacuum line going to the brake booster and they are still locked up and the pedal tight.. only thought now is the master cyl.. could this be the case? should i just rebleed the brakes or what... come on, please someone help me out!!!

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nobody?

abe amigon

I am having the same problem now. I changed the brake booster, and now my brakes are stuck. I had the same problem with the rod and lights also. What did you do to fix it??

fdavie

way to bring a thread back from the dead... There's a FAQ on tegger.com about installing a new MC. It's got really good info about what's going on and how to fix it.

abe amigon

I found what you are talking about but I ended up replacing the bb/mc anyway. It works perfectly fine now. thanks

V3RY5ICK

I know this is an old thread, but I replaced the BB on my Accord due to vacuum leak, engine surge and drop while idling. Only to have the same dragging brake issue. I got the replacement BB from Autozone, and it was not adjusted correctly. No matter how I adjusted the pedal adjustment rod, brakes dragged. I fixed the problem by removing the master cylinder, and on the tip of the BB pushrod, there is a screw on the end. I held the rod with vice grips and turned the screw all the way into the pushrod, then adjusted the brake pedal adjuster to where I liked the feel. Brakes are perfect now, Hope this helps!