EFPhilly

So I'll start out by stating that I'm sorry for starting a new thread, but I havent seen very many people running my engine/internal combo;therefore, can't find much help regarding it. And as well start my engine build thread too...

Here's my current set-up:

B18A1 block, bored to 81.5mm and used because it's suposed to be the good block with crankcase ventilation.

Cp engineering 9:2:1 81.5mm [GSR] (should make final compression somewhere near (9.14:1)

Stock sleeves

Eagle H-beam rods [GSR]

GSR crank [stock]

B18B1 head for now (fully port and polish) stock otherwise. Valves "spot" on the head will be machined after im fully done porting the head.

Cast manifold t3/t4

Garret t3/t4 .60 ar cool side, skyline gtr exhaust side, .63 ar.

turbonetics 38mm wastegate

graddy type rs knockoff bov

jdmsport intercooler

550cc dsm injectors

apexi power fc



Here's my questions..

since im using the ls block and ls head i would assume i set valve lash to that of a ls which is .003-.005 on the feeler guage, but since this motor has gsr intenals does that mean I have to set it to another valve lash to make timing correct.

Should I torque the crank retaining bolts to ls specs or gsr specs too (I think seeing they were the same)

and the feeler guage and plastiguage should be used for installing the crank, so what should the specs for that be. Any help with my build would be greatly apreciated

Also, Im going to drop in the engine in the next few weeks after I get the stupid guy at acura to order my bearings [gsr bearings], then I'm breaking in the engine, then throwing the turbo on.

Hybridvalve

The valve lash should be suit your head you are correct not the internals

The crankshaft bearing running clearances would most likely be the same but definitely go with the gsr clearances

As for the torque settings b18's ive seen carry the same specs but follow the specs based on the block you are running again not the crankshaft

cheers

EFPhilly

Okay. So b18b1 valve lash for the head. Running clearance for block...gsr. And ls torgue specs.

Where does everyone run there oil line from the block.

What kind of assebly lube does everyone like.

And feel free to chyme in on my turbo setup...commments or things I should change

EFPhilly

put the oil pump off the B18b1 on and was wondering if the sensor right by b the crank on what I think is a OBD2 engine, is that a knock sensor, and is it necessary for a OBD1 motor

Jimster480

for the oil line from the block to the turbo you use a 3 or 4 way connector. It goes into the hole where the Oil pressure sender goes, then the oil line to the turbo goes off the Connector and the oil pressure sender goes in the other side, and if you have a oil pressure gauge (you should have one) put that in the last open hole of the 4 way.
Knock sensors are not required for OBD1 just make sure that you have the crank sensor.

EFPhilly

The crank angle sensor is located in the distributor on both the sohc and dohc engine. The sensor on the oil pump is called the crank fluctuation sensor or something like that,(http://hondaswap.com/hybrid-eg-ek-dc...nnector-17039/) Says the one on the oil pump is not the crank angle sensor. Im going to be running a power fc, and I have a obd2 harness, so I think I'll put all the B18B1 sensors on and then use the engine harness to splice into mine.

I have a oil sandwich filter plate. I has like 4 lines to run off....just got to go somewhere to get an extension for the oil filter threads, sandwich plate takes up too much room.

Hoping to get my pistons back today, after I switched around the oilscraper ring becuase I thought it was wrong, turns out i am dumb and broke a piston ring in the process, those things are kinda pricey.

SUPERTURBOCIVIC

Thats a cool setup you got there never really seen anyone do it before stronger sleeves stock but less oil feed to the rotating assembly.

Jimster480

ya thats the sensor i was talking about. The one on the oil pump. vry nice on breaking a ring there lol

EFPhilly

Oh why thank you. Sure love beaking those rings! I just let the shop mess with them. It's cuz I'm too strong

Yeah I'm putting the b16 head on or gsr head. And yes I know there are no oil jets to spray the pistons in the ls block. Midterms=no time to work on my beast

EFPhilly

well Im thinking about not running the power fc. I had not bought it, the shop was holding it for me. for a hundrred more I can pick up the aem ems that has some extra features on it, and I heard they tune easier. (I love that handheld commander though). Ive also been reading on neptune (i think thats what it is). I have a sohc vtec ecu that i could chip and everything, but i would be picking the power fc (standalone) for 2 hundred dollars.

So chyme in on what ecu (standalone, or chipped) I should run. It only had to support my rc750cc/min injectors, so nothing too crazy. Im looking for a safe tune around three hundred. thanks.

EFPhilly

Ttt I need input on the ecu...or delete this thread cuz no one is helping. I'll go post on rx7club those ppl will actually respond