lkailburn

guys i just finished tweeking my y7/y8 mini-me. took me all weekend but i had it running great yesterday. perfect idle, vtec engaging perfect, no cels,everything seemed fine. then today i was driving it and i got a cel. so after class i went and check it and it is a 45: fuel system too rich or too lean

im using my stock dx injectors and the y8 fuel rail. i didn't see any leaks anywhere so i can't imagine how im too rich or lean.

now i know theres always a big debate between the dx and ex injectors being 190 and 240 but i remember seeing someone flow test them and they were both 240.

any other idea's?

thanks very much!

-Luke

EK k kay

Try cleaning off the injectors. I've tried both the y7 and y8 injectors with the y8 fuel rail on my mini me and never had that problem.

lkailburn

yah i did clean them. they were nasty dirty before.
i figured i'd use mine because i KNEW that they worked lol.

damn i love problems like this.

i'll have to triple check for any leaks. if not i'll take the injectors out again and clean them up. maybe even swap in the ex ones and see what happens.

thanks man. good to know both sets work in a mini-me

lkailburn

i got her back up and running beautifully

changed oil, oil filter
topped off the coolant
gapped the spark plugs to .04(civic owner's manual spec) they were maybe .05 before
cleared the ecu
swapped in the ex injectors

i will keep this updated as usual.

POE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lkailburn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got her back up and running beautifully

changed oil, oil filter
topped off the coolant
gapped the spark plugs to .04(civic owner's manual spec) they were maybe .05 before
cleared the ecu
swapped in the ex injectors

i will keep this updated as usual.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


nice

lkailburn

here are some pics:

hatchling37

Now all you need is to swap out that bottlenecking exhaust manifold You're getting robbed of HP!

Bond

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hatchling37 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now all you need is to swap out that bottlenecking exhaust manifold You're getting robbed of HP!</TD></TR></TABLE>

So true!

lkailburn

hehehehhe. oh i have something to replace it.. its sitting on my desk.. it starts with ram..ends with horn and usually has a nice PSHHHHHT sound that follows it

hmt turbo install first week of june

glad you like the mini-me tho.

drove her to school again and she's still running beautifully. she's deffinitly more fun to drive now.

thanks,

-Luke

d16rice

Not to steal your thread, but since you got your mini-me running smoothly, maybe you can help me.
This is what’s happening to my engine:
- Initially it idled at 400rpm. Now it’s around 500-600rpm.
- Initially the engine stalled after 15 seconds of running. Now it runs non stop, but as soon as I put it in gear it stalls.
- The engine barely revs up. Sometimes I can get it up to 5K, but usually barely up to 2500 rpm.
- When in gear, the car barely pulls
- When reving it, sometimes it misfires.
- After reving, the car usually stalls
These are the codes I got with my OBDII Scanner:
- P0325 - knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction bank 1 or 1 sensor (I haven’t installed it yet, so ignore it)
- P0453 - EVAP emission control system press sensor high
- P0450 - EVAP emission control system press sensor fault

lkailburn

get a knock sensor. when my knock sensor connections went shady i had all sorts of weird *** problems.

did you get either of those evap codes before?
i just googled for htis and it seems very imformative
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc...s.cfm

i say get the knock sensor asap. get it installed(my y7 block was all threaded ready to accept the sensor).

what mini-me are we talking about here. y7/y8? what IM are you using and what ecu.

d16rice

It’s a Y7/Y8 mini me with a p2p ecu.
Y7 engine block, everything else Y8

I’ll read up on the link you posted, too. Maybe I’ll find something thee.

Also, when I disconnected the vacuum line form the fuel psi regulator, the engine ran a lot smoother, but then a minute later, it started shaking again.

lkailburn

well you'll deffinitly want your fpr hooked up lol.

are you sure you have all your vac and coolant lines connected correctly?

d16rice

I think so.
Coolant lines
There was one big coolant line going from firewall to the side under the distributor.
There was another big one going from the back of the head (under vtec solenoid) to a big nipple right underneath it.
There was a third big coolant hose going from radiator to the front of the head.
Lastly, there’s a small coolant line going from the pipe on the back of the engine block to the throttle body.
And then from the throttle body to the nipple underneath the vtec solenoid

The vacuum lines
One thin line going form IM to fuel PSI regulator.
One thick one going form the back of IM to the firewall (right where the gauge cluster is).
And then there’s one medium size line going from the front of IM, to the EVAP mounted on the fuel rail, and from the EVAP, to the canister with the charcoal.

Did I miss anything?

Wouldn’t coolant lines connected to vacuum lines produce white smoke coming out of my exhaust anyway?

lkailburn

vac lines sound correct. which tb are you using. y8 tb with iacv mounted on manifold or tb. or y7 tb

huntarrr

yup, it was definitely the injectors

mp5o

Im having the same code 45... Its causing me to bog occaisonally and the cold idle sucks.... BUT I'm also throwing code 23:knock sensor. I'm still hitting vtec and everything runs fine when warm.... Except for the bogging. I have yet to change spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, clean injectors, or any of that.... Thats probably why.... I dont know why im talking.... Bye.

d16rice

I’m using Y8 TB, as well as everything else Y8 from engine block up.

I tried just put Y7 injectors in, but no difference, well, actually seems a little worse.
I also tried running Y7 EVAP, but no change

Any other ideas?

P.S.
I got to go to work for a few hours, but I'll be back by 7

d16rice

OK, I'm back, any more tips?

EK k kay

Get that knock sensor in. No wonder your car runs shitty. You are in limp mode. Trust me I've been through a week of it and it is no fun having to mash on the pedal just to get your car going and your motor feels like its suffocating.

lkailburn

YUP. when my knock sensor wasn't connected(shitty connecter the first time) my car was all sorts of whack!

d16rice

So if it’s the knock sensor, should I put the P2E ecu back in until I get the sensor installed.
I know I won’t wave Vtec, but at least the car should run, right?
This way if it stops shaking and idling erraticly, I’ll know it’s the knock sensor, and if still keeps stalling, I’ll have to look for other solutions.
Does this make sense?

How much do knock sensors go for/what should I expect to pay?
Also, does it have to be a Honda sensor, or are there others that would work, too?



Modified by d16rice at 8:14 PM 4/26/2005

Redline96LX

Note:

Putting a y8 fuel rail on may or may not help. If the car is staying N/A for now, keep your stock y7 fuel rail and injectors if you use the stock y7 computer, the P2E. Reset the ecu. this will solve a/f ratio problems. Then there is simply more airflow. The ECU will know how to add more fuel with the stock injectors. if you added bigger ones, itd be running rich, thus the ECU would try to lean it out.

d16rice

I have an adjustable fuel psi regulator though, couldn't I just adjust that and leave the Y8 injectors alone. (Right now I have all Y8 parts engine block up)

Oh, I totally forgot, sometimes I get explosion sound in my intake. Can this be do to my timing being off, or is it something more serious?

These are the things I’m planning on doing in the next few days:
-Try running with P2E ecu
-Disconnect my MSD 6A and run the external coil straight to the distributor
-Play around with timing


I tested my fuel system, and it all seems fine.
-The pump is working
-The fuel psi regulator is working
-Fuel injectors are working (both Y7 and Y8)
-I have new fuel lines and there are no leaks

I’m waiting for my new distributor cap and rotor to come in. It’s time to replace them as it is, and I also have a new set of 10.3mm spark plug wires lying around somewhere.
I also put a new alternator in and the battery is less than a year old, too.

EK k kay

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d16rice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So if it’s the knock sensor, should I put the P2E ecu back in until I get the sensor installed.
I know I won’t wave Vtec, but at least the car should run, right?
This way if it stops shaking and idling erraticly, I’ll know it’s the knock sensor, and if still keeps stalling, I’ll have to look for other solutions.
Does this make sense?

How much do knock sensors go for/what should I expect to pay?
Also, does it have to be a Honda sensor, or are there others that would work, too?

Modified by d16rice at 8:14 PM 4/26/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

You will probably get an IACV cel if you run the p2e unless you convert back to the 3-wire iacv. You'll probably also run a little lean because the ecu differences. Knock sensors are usually around $50 off honda-tech.