roycivic92

finaly got money 4 swap. but cant deside, gsr or b16, i will do a b20 vtec later.my ride is a 92 hb

HondaFanatic708

If you plan to go CRV-VTEC eventually I would say JDM B16A. The head will flow better on your B20 block IMO.. Intake ports on the B16 are slightly larger than the ones on the B18, I will post a link describing this.. Gimme a min..

Here is a good link to check out while I find this other one. Engine differences

roycivic92

thanks for the info, i tried to search but its not working,any hpower specs on a b20vtec with stock internals

dohcdelsol93

save some money, buy a complete b20 and mate it with the tranny of your choice. I have less than a grand in my swap(b18b w/si tranny), or had until i did the ls/vtec build but that was a full bottom up rebuild.

HondaFanatic708

Non-VTEC to VTEC head comparison Well it is not what I thought it was but here it is anyway. B18A and B18B heads are similiar and B16A, GSR and B18C heads are similiar. There are some points mentioned in this article that have good points but anyway go B16A - cheaper, head flows better.. IMO! Happy tuning!!

HondaFanatic708

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">save some money, buy a complete b20 and mate it with the tranny of your choice. I have less than a grand in my swap(b18b w/si tranny), or had until i did the ls/vtec build but that was a full bottom up rebuild.</TD></TR></TABLE>Now he's talking. I know this guy who has a LS longblock for a few hundred bucks, buy a trans and get a B16 head. LS-VTEC is the ****. See here for info about creating an LS-VTEC monster..

roycivic92

wont it cost almost the same price to buy a b16 then put the block ,than getting the b20 then getting the tranny and the head.

HondaFanatic708

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roycivic92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wont it cost almost the same price to buy a b16 then put the block ,than getting the b20 then getting the tranny and the head.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes but you will also have a B16 block sitting around just in case you blow a motor, trust me man, extra block are a good thing to have.

dohcdelsol93

most b16 swaps i see are around 2,000/+ grand, I can buy a b20 for 2-500 depending on quality and mileage and buy a b16 tranny for 600-700 shipped to my door. I'd piece it together. If you were to buy all the mounts and brackets from the a junk yard off an ls integra they would probably only be 50-100 then add another 50-75 for used shifter linkage(90-93 will work). Youd save money in the long run piecing it toghether. Oh and a gsr or b16 head complete with im/ dizzy would be around 6-700. I'd go with the custom set up myself. If your going all out just buy a bare head and get after market cams/springs/retainers/rocker arms/valves/ intake, ect ect. and squeeze out the extra ponies. Your options are unlimited.

HondaFanatic708

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">most b16 swaps i see are around 2,000/+ grand, I can buy a b20 for 2-500 depending on quality and mileage and buy a b16 tranny for 600-700 shipped to my door. I'd piece it together. If you were to buy all the mounts and brackets from the a junk yard off an ls integra they would probably only be 50-100 then add another 50-75 for used shifter linkage(90-93 will work). Youd save money in the long run piecing it toghether. Oh and a gsr or b16 head complete with im/ dizzy would be around 6-700. I'd go with the custom set up myself. If your going all out just buy a bare head and get after market cams/springs/retainers/rocker arms/valves/ intake, ect ect. and squeeze out the extra ponies. Your options are unlimited.</TD></TR></TABLE>I completely agree with PeeWee here. Especially the last statement. It will save money in the long run..

Import_Dumbass

when you guys did your swaps you didnt swap out the whole drive train and everything like new axels and what not?

HondaFanatic708

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Import_Dumbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you guys did your swaps you didnt swap out the whole drive train and everything like new axels and what not?</TD></TR></TABLE>I did, I just bought a complete JDM B16A. Came engine, trans, ecu, axels, hatchback linkages(had to buy DelSol VTEC ones). I had the axels beefed up a bit because I like to break drive axels. Oh besides just this I added, UR under-drive pulleys, UR adj cam gears, header, test pipe (kept the stock exhaust for total sleeper), AASCO 12lb flywheel, CM stage 3 clutch (Big mistake, should have went clutchNet or ACT) and a VAFC-II. On 01 Civic EX steelies with winter tires I was able to put down QM times in the mid-low 13's all day long. Not too bad IMO. Oh yeah I also changed a bunch of sensors, re-wired the entire harness, did every flowchart in the DelSol VTEC fuel section before I even turned it over. So I checked, and double checked and checked again. The only way IMO...

dohcdelsol93

I kept my stock del sol si drive train, installed prothane busing kits along with kyb struts and ebach springs.

Import_Dumbass

how much did that run you. the complete swapout with the whoel train?

dohcdelsol93

when you start modding you quit counting how much you have invested, it's depressing. It's easy to blow 7-8 grand after an engine build and turbo install. Not even counting the suspension work

Import_Dumbass

i think ill jut drop a b20 in and sooner or later mate it with a vtec head. probably a b16

HondaFanatic708

Just the swap set me back $2,400 including freight. But I spent like $8,600 during the whole project. I stopped counting after I counted the first time.

Import_Dumbass

haha damn, where im going the guy is saying it will around 4,700 for a full b20 swap with everything. or maybet hat was I/H/E thrown in?