preetyboi06

I am having serious problems with my D15b to the point where I just wanna give up on this car. Here is the run down. I have a 94 vx hatchback that i swapped a "JDM D15b" into. And at first the car didn't want to start but I finally got it to, then its didn't want to pass 4000rpm and i figured out that it was the wrong cable going to the IACV so now that all good. But now since I fixed that I have other PROBLEMS!!!! BTW the ECU running the car is a virgin P28.

1. When i start my car up from a cold start it revs all the way up to 4000rpms and then works its way down to a consistent idle of 1500rpms. I do have a CEL light and the codes are:
Code 7 Throttle position sensor
Code 10 Intake air temperature sensor
Code 41 Heated oxygen sensor heater
And I dont know if any of these codes would effect my car idling all f@&$%d up or keep it from idling correctly and not at 1500rpm. Any help would be appreciated

2.My car has no power until about 2000-2500rpms. Like it starts of struggling and once it hits 2000rpms its like a burst of power. I have new spark plugs, new wires, and a new dizzy so idk what could be causing these problems. any help would be appreciated.

3.I have been reading that the redline for a JDM D15b is 7500rpms. Well my mines doest go past 5500rpms. It get there and thats it. Could it be the tranny or something?

4.How do you know if its a D15b? It says it on the block but how do i know its not a D15b7? Yes it has a V-tec solenoid and jank but this motor runs like ****!!! Also I dont think V-tec even works.....

5.Found oil on the top of my tranny by the speed sensor any idea of where this might be coming from and also my speedometer doesnt work... Thanks

PLEASE ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED and below are videos of what my car is doing.

Car starting.... 4000rpms down to 1500 (eventually)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWBAZkEVZQI

Car idling at 1500rpms
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=798MMkQBY1M

Car not passing 5500rpms
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QG_AKH6RWqM

Shade93

All of your videos are "private"?

preetyboi06

Made public....

HondaPartsHero

Check and see if you have the TPS and MAP connectors swapped (TPS should be red/green/yellow). Make sure the IAT is not swap around with the IACV (IAT should be green/red). Is your O2 4 wire from the VX? If not you'll have to convert the wiring to 4 wire.

preetyboi06

Thanks I will check these out when I get home tonight and post up if anything changes.

preetyboi06

BUMP!!!! Anyone knows why I cant go past 5500rpms and why car is powerless until about 2000-2500rpms? HELP PLEASE!!!!

notsolfast

I had the same idle problem, it turned out to be my tps sensor was shot. Apparently they go bad easily. As for being powerless, its a d15 hehe just kidding. But seriously. If those cables are mixed up, which is easy to do, I'm sure it would **** up your rev limit.

preetyboi06

Thanks... and lol damn slow *** single cams... Question as far as IAT I have something that looks like it goes into the intake itself and from what a friend was saying thats my IAT could that be correct if so my intake doesnt have a spot for this to go into to read the temp. so is there anything else I can do...

KleinMein

what do you mean by "i swapped a "JDM D15b" into"? You mean by your serf? Because you had problems from the beginning of the swap....
Why dont you visit a commisary Honda service?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Pictures please.
We have a JDM D15B in the hatch. Install went flawless.

preetyboi06

I just put the motor in I didn't do any of the connecting of the wore harness or anything else I went to a place in here in Miami and they are the ones who connected up the wire harness told me what other parts I needed to buy and ****. There are not many reliable places here in Miami that do swaps. They are just as stuck trying to figure out this problem as I am.

preetyboi06

As soon as I get home I will post pictutes up of the swap and engine bay

preetyboi06

UPDATE!!!!

I should have mentioned this... I was reading this and it says "obd1 had it built into the intake manifold, obd2 cars had it built into the intake arm.....so if your running a obd2 intake on a obd1 motor without the sensor in the intake, your not running a iat sensor thus throwing the code"....
This is talking about the IAT... I have a y8 manifold on my D15b which would mean the senor would have to go into the intake arm which is the white little senor I was talking about (I will still post pics up of it to make sure)

And they say to fix the problem is "you just need the sensor and just jb weld it into your intake for a cheap fix or buy the aluminum flange and have it welded on for a cleaner look. my opinion would be to buy a z6 intake manifold, its a cleaner look having the iat on the back of the mani hidden, there dirt cheap and you will see a deffinate improvment in performance"

Do I have to so this or can I bypass this somehow. Also does a y8 manifold even have a IAT on the back of it like a z6 manifold does?

apexi_rsx

y8 the iat sensor is in the intake tube not mounted on the intake manifold like obd1 cars. you need to fix your CEL codes one by one. this is why the car runs like shyt. start testing the sensors.

preetyboi06

QUICK UPDATE AND ANOTHER F*****G PROBLEM

So I cleaned the IAVC and the FIV and the car was working alot better still idled alot better still a little high but thats becuase I need a new TPS which I ordered. But yesterday another problem accured. I jacked my car up to change the test pipe and then after changed the speed sensor. There was some oil around the sensor so I cleaned it up and out the new sensor in and went to start my car. Starts up perfect and after about 2-5 minutes of warming it it idles at 1000rpm and the SPUTTERING begins. I changed different computers and still supttering while at idle and through all rpms as I drive through all gears. So went to bed hoping it would fix itself. Woke up this morning and started my car and it runs perfect until it warms up and the sputtering begins again. I am lost. I didnt touch anything but the test pipe and the speed sensor so IDK why the F**K this is happening. Any help would be appericated.

Again it sputters once car is warm at idle and through all rpms and all gears. When driving you can hear it trying to run smooth and for a few seconds it does but then goes back to sputtering. I AM LOST

BTW anyone lives in Miami that works on cars?