Help : Installing electric oil pressure sender
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Help : Installing electric oil pressure sender
I'm trying to install electric oil pressure sender but after few articles I'm confused what is the most reliable way of installing the setup.The build is simple td16.
So far i have two blue prints.
a.Run it Directly from the block.
OR
b.Extend the oil line to the steering column frame.
Since the car is going to be DD I'm trying to avoid of running into oil leaks or let alone brake the threads.
Any suggestions?
So far i have two blue prints.
a.Run it Directly from the block.
OR
b.Extend the oil line to the steering column frame.
Since the car is going to be DD I'm trying to avoid of running into oil leaks or let alone brake the threads.
Any suggestions?
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#12
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd say A.
Less room for **** to go wrong in terms of leaks. Though if done correctly, either way should work just fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uh once it rips out the aluminum thread from that hole it will leak insanely. Electrical sending units for oil are very heavy (to heavy for my liking). This is how i set up mine (turbo feed, oil pressure and oil temp)
Less room for **** to go wrong in terms of leaks. Though if done correctly, either way should work just fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uh once it rips out the aluminum thread from that hole it will leak insanely. Electrical sending units for oil are very heavy (to heavy for my liking). This is how i set up mine (turbo feed, oil pressure and oil temp)
#13
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i would personally run a line away from the block.
I have had 3 different cars with electronic oil psi gauges, and the first 2 the sensor was directly on the block, and went out in about 2-3 months, dont really remember, the 3rd had it ran from a sandwich plate to the firewall, drove it for about 6 months before i sold it, and as far as i know it is still holding up today.
I have had 3 different cars with electronic oil psi gauges, and the first 2 the sensor was directly on the block, and went out in about 2-3 months, dont really remember, the 3rd had it ran from a sandwich plate to the firewall, drove it for about 6 months before i sold it, and as far as i know it is still holding up today.
#14
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Re: (Luserkid)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uh once it rips out the aluminum thread from that hole it will leak insanely. Electrical sending units for oil are very heavy (to heavy for my liking). This is how i set up mine (turbo feed, oil pressure and oil temp)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well yeah, but I don't see it tearing out of the block...I mean it's possible I'm missing something, but it's not like somebody's gonna be jumping on it.
If your oil drain plug falls out it'll leak insanely too...but I don't worry about it happening...?
EDIT:
And there's not enough PSI to blow it off...
Well yeah, but I don't see it tearing out of the block...I mean it's possible I'm missing something, but it's not like somebody's gonna be jumping on it.
If your oil drain plug falls out it'll leak insanely too...but I don't worry about it happening...?
EDIT:
And there's not enough PSI to blow it off...
#15
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the vibration is more of a factor causing to leak. I like your setup. Basically you applied #2 option but relocated on the block. Did u have any issues so far?
#16
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Re: (Syndacate)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Syndacate »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Well yeah, but I don't see it tearing out of the block...I mean it's possible I'm missing something, but it's not like somebody's gonna be jumping on it.
If your oil drain plug falls out it'll leak insanely too...but I don't worry about it happening...?
EDIT:
And there's not enough PSI to blow it off...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Vibration is what cause the tear out along with the weight. Oil pressure just helps it along. Steel into Aluminum does not work out to great in vibration, Steel will survive but aluminum will break. You dont want to do Aluminum to Aluminum because it will seize with the heat which strips both block and fitting.
Reason this doesnt happen to drain plugs is 1. Steel to Steel/stainless does not strip, 2. There is no excess extended weight (something hanging off a distance), 3. The plug is alot bigger then a small 1/8th npt. and lastly there is no pressure from there to even cause a problem, if there was a problem. All the oil does is sit there.
Viskii - I had this setup originally to the firewall but due to wire tucking my engine bay i placed it where you see. Plenty of dyno pulls and track passes gave me no problems. As long as you mount it secure so it doesnt vibrate you wont have any problems.
Well yeah, but I don't see it tearing out of the block...I mean it's possible I'm missing something, but it's not like somebody's gonna be jumping on it.
If your oil drain plug falls out it'll leak insanely too...but I don't worry about it happening...?
EDIT:
And there's not enough PSI to blow it off...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Vibration is what cause the tear out along with the weight. Oil pressure just helps it along. Steel into Aluminum does not work out to great in vibration, Steel will survive but aluminum will break. You dont want to do Aluminum to Aluminum because it will seize with the heat which strips both block and fitting.
Reason this doesnt happen to drain plugs is 1. Steel to Steel/stainless does not strip, 2. There is no excess extended weight (something hanging off a distance), 3. The plug is alot bigger then a small 1/8th npt. and lastly there is no pressure from there to even cause a problem, if there was a problem. All the oil does is sit there.
Viskii - I had this setup originally to the firewall but due to wire tucking my engine bay i placed it where you see. Plenty of dyno pulls and track passes gave me no problems. As long as you mount it secure so it doesnt vibrate you wont have any problems.
#17
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FV-QR
running a tunertoys fitting here straight into the block and it's been fine for years.
Autometer oil pressure sender, stock pressure sensor and a feed like for the turbo are coming off it.
Autometer oil pressure sender, stock pressure sensor and a feed like for the turbo are coming off it.
#18
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Thanks for all you input guys. I'll end up using method number #2.
I'll keep you updated with the setup overtime. As of now i got few shots before the engine is dropped in.
Cheers,
Vick
I'll keep you updated with the setup overtime. As of now i got few shots before the engine is dropped in.
Cheers,
Vick
#19
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Re: Help : Installing electric oil pressure sender (viskii420)
I had mine running off the block for a little bit untill it broke off in the block and I had to fish it out (FUN!!!) anyway I ended up doing somthing like your B plan and havent had any problems so I vote B. good luck.
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