turbotime

Ok so i just got my ls swap in but the damn thing wont fire ive tried everything and cant figure it out-

- I did a compression test and got 90psi solid across all 4 cylinders [17f outside] and the compression tester was soaked with gas.

- I checked the plug wires for spark and was getting spark on all 4 wires.

- For some reason the plugs are getting drenched in fuel so i replaced all 4 spark plugs, still no start

- replaced the plug wires and battery, still nothing

- no cel's

i cant figure this out? It seems like its just dumping fuel, there is no o2 sensor attached but that shouldnt effect startup...

92 b18a1 stock, obd1 stock ecu

HELPP PLEASSEE

Blk00EJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok so i just got my ls swap in but the damn thing wont fire ive tried everything and cant figure it out-

- I did a compression test and got 90psi solid across all 4 cylinders [17f outside] and the compression tester was soaked with gas.

- I checked the plug wires for spark and was getting spark on all 4 wires.

- For some reason the plugs are getting drenched in fuel so i replaced all 4 spark plugs, still no start

- replaced the plug wires and battery, still nothing

- no cel's

i cant figure this out? It seems like its just dumping fuel, there is no o2 sensor attached but that shouldnt effect startup...

92 b18a1 stock, obd1 stock ecu

HELPP PLEASSEE </TD></TR></TABLE>

90 psi solid?? for one, that's really low, even for the temp. and two, you're supposed to disconnect the injectors when you do this. you did something wrong with readings like that.

the reason it's probably not starting is because you're probably flooding your engine with too much fuel. what's the fuel pressure after the pump primes? and what size injectors? with a stock ecu you shouldn't be running anything larger than oem sized injectors.

turbotime

oem injectors, idk fuel pressure there is no gauge but the pump is priming.. i did the test by disconnecting the dizzy, WOT remove one plug at a time and cranked it like 10 times per cylinder...

should i pull the plugs and let it sit overnight to evaporate the fuel?

turbotime

bump, pulled the plugs and im gonna let it sit overnight...

plugs are covered in fuel, no sing sof combustion at all

turbotime

bump wtf got some partial combustions today but the cylinders are just getting flooded with gas, the plugs are literally wet with gas when i pulled them out

I Shot 50 Cent

Shouldnt the ideal compression for an LS be in the 180 range? Or is that 120?

This could be really simple...but are all your grounds connected properly? Even the one on the valve cover many people seem to forget about.

Good luck!

turbotime

yup got all the grounds (tranny, valvecover, thermostat)...

if i touch the injectors gas starts comin out of the rail, could the injector seals cause the car not to start? Im thinking of swapping dizzy's even tho im seein spark when i help the plugwire near a screwdriver, will an obd1vtrec dizzy work on this motor?

My last guess is maybe the valve lash is way off?

Sloshy

timing might be off

I Shot 50 Cent

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yup got all the grounds (tranny, valvecover, thermostat)...

if i touch the injectors gas starts comin out of the rail, could the injector seals cause the car not to start? Im thinking of swapping dizzy's even tho im seein spark when i help the plugwire near a screwdriver, will an obd1vtrec dizzy work on this motor?

My last guess is maybe the valve lash is way off?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm...Im pretty sure if the valve lash is off, even pretty moderately it should still fire. It won't idle very nicely but it should still at least turn over. Are you certain the timing is set correctly? Fuel pump is good along w/ the fuse/relay?

Good luck man. I HATE situations like this. You finally got your motor swapped and you're soooo excited to whip it around but something bullshit like this comes along and screws it all up. Not to mention its cold as expletive outside...well at least in NJ it is. Actually, you're in upstate NY. I actually think you guys got snow right? Can't be a comfortable working environment, thats why I say it could be something relatively simple since you're probably anxious, cold, worried, and in a rush all at the same time. Have patience though man, it'll get figured out!

cranny

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I Shot 50 Cent &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Shouldnt the ideal compression for an LS be in the 180 range? Or is that 120?

This could be really simple...but are all your grounds connected properly? Even the one on the valve cover many people seem to forget about.

Good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

wouldnt turn over if that was the case , wouldnt effect starting. firing order wrong maybe? somin silly prolly. cant get no easier than a plug and play swap which is what that is pretty much. couple diffs in ECU wiring though.

heres somin to look at , the D ECU connector for OBD1 civics

D01 7.5A backup fuse.
D02 green/white , BKSW(brake pedal switch)
D03 LABEL(laf sensor , Z1 engine only)
D04 brown , SCS(service check connector)
D05 not used
D06 orange/blue , VTM(vtec oil pressure switch , for D16Z1 and D16Z6 engines)
D07 light blue , TXD/RXD(data link connector)
D08 VS+(laf sensor , Z1 engine only)
D09 white/yellow or pink , ACGF(alternator)
D10 green/red , EL(eld unit)
D11 TPS - throttle position sensor
D12 white/black , EGRL(egr valve lift sensor, for D15Z1 only)
D13 red/white , TW(tw sensor , tied into data link connector)
D14 orange/black , heated O2 sensor(for B7 , Z6 , Z1((IP+ also)), engines) ; O2(non heated , for B8)
D15 red/yellow , TA(ta sensor , tied into data link connector)
D16 orange/black , IP-,VS-(laf sensor)
D17 not used
D18 pink/green , SIL(shift up indicator , m/t) , white/red (interlock control unit , a/t)
D19 VCC1(map sensor)
D20 VCC2(egr valve)
D21 SG1(map sensor)
D22 SG2(connected to all engine sensors for data link connector)


and for OBD1 tegs

D01 - white/blue - 7.5a backup fuse in under hood fusebox
D02 - green/white - brake pedal switch
D03 - red/blue - KS(knock sensor)
D04 - brown/white - service check connector
D05 - empty
D06 - blue/black - VTEC pressure switch
D07 - light blue - data link connector
D08 - light green - TCM(A/T only)
D09 - white/red - alternator
D10 - green/red - ELD(electronic load detector)
D11 - red/black - TPS(throttle position sensor)(TCM also for A/T)
D12 - empty
D13 - red/white - ECT(engine coolant temp sensor)(TCM as well for A/T)
D14 - white/red - H02S(heated oxygen sensor)
D15 - red/yellow - IAT sensor
D16 - white/black - TCM(A/T only)
D17 - white/yellow - MAP sensor
D18 - empty
D19 - yellow/white(than yellow/red from tower plug for LS , yellow/white all the way for GSR) - MAP sensor
D20 - yellow/blue - TPS(throttle position sensor)
D21 - green/white - MAP sensor
D22 - green/blue - H02S(heated oxygen sensor)

turbotime

cam timing was off as hell, im in the process of correcting it, should be much better once its correct

turbotime

<FONT SIZE="5"> UPDATE</FONT>

Ok fixed the cam timing and adjusted the valve lash. Apparently the alternator was seized so i ordered a new one.

Jumped the car off a buddy's and got it RUNNING! But it sounds like a 4stroke dirtbike or snomobile, running SUPER RICH. Everything on this car is stock i have no idea wtf is wrong...

Pulled the plugs- soot black. Checked the compression- 180psi across the board.

HELLLPPPPP

turbotime

what would it run like if my camt iming were off a tooth?