travishoward

car: 1994 eg si hatch
engine: 94 gsr with b16 tranny
fuel pressure: 44psi
fuel pump: walbro 255
fuel pressure regulator: b&m
fuel pressure gauge: b&m
intake: skunk2 manifold with itr throttle body
clutch/pressureplate/flywheel: clutchmasters stage 3 pressure plate, oem replacement clutch, lightweight flywheel
exhaust: dc ceramic header, stock piping to fart can (was like that when i got it)
ecu: chipped p28 from phearable

my car was running perfectly fine, but my tranny was screwed and the car wasnt driveable, so i swapped another tranny in and now the car wont start

im not getting power to my ecu (i know this because the cel doesnt come on when the key is turned to the on position)

ive tried 3 different main relays, they all prime the fuel pump everytime

ive put my ecu in my buddies car and it drove perfect

ive checked all 3 main grounds (thermostat, tranny, and head) all good

ive checked and replaced my ecu fuse in the im-bay fusepanel

ive checked and replaced all my fuses in both the underdash and in-bay fuseboxes

ive changed the ACG fuse

made sure the harness plugs were all put in, all the way

ive even replaced the bulb for the cel in the cluster (incase it was just blown)

im still, not getting power to my ecu

car starts, then dies instantly

timing is correct, and dizzy is timed correctly and rebuilt with brand new parts (cap, rotor, coilpack)

new sparkplugs gapped to .05

help? someone? i dont wanna have to drop 100 bucks to get neal sutton to my house..

are there any grounds ive missed? anything i should check?



thanks in advance!

- travis

travishoward

then why isnt my cel light coming on witrh the fuel pump?

information above updated.

Former User

Does the starter crank the engine when the key is in ON(III)? If so, is there bright white spark at the plugs?

With the key in ON(II), does the oil pressure light in the cluster turn on? If not, is 10A dash fuse 15 blown?

travishoward

yes it cranks, havent checked the spark because the cel doesnt come on
and the fuses have all been replaced like stated above, even that one
and oil pressure and battery light comes on, on III

Former User

^And also ON(II), right?

The fact that the fuel pump primes for 2 seconds indicates that the ECU does get good power and ground. The CEL not coming on per se won't prevent the engine from starting, so check for spark. The CEL not coming on possibly may be a separate issue.

I suspect that you won't have spark, but verify this. Do you have a multimeter? You will need one to do the next troubleshooting tests.

travishoward

ill check for spark, and ill check the ground and power pins on the plug to the ecu(a25 etc..) when i get my battery back from advanced auto parts

i found a ground, under the cluster, a little clip that slides on to a piece of metal, i believe its the dash harness ground?
what would this prevent from coming on?

its possible that i pulled it off when i was putting some new dash parts in and changing steering wheels

Former User

Check for continuity to body ground at ECU pins A23 and A24 individually.

travishoward

well i got my battery, plugged that ground in, and my ecu light now comes on, however, now im not getting spark
im getting power to the coilpack, but not to the rotor
it has a brand new coil pack, rotor, and cap
so im gonna try and replace the ignitor coil today, and see what happens
idk how that could have gone bad with a simple tranny swap.. however, its a honda and theyre notorious for that kinda mess

Former User

Cranking the engine with one or more of the plug wires disconnected often blows the coil.

travishoward

well then thatd make sense i suppose, im sure thats happened in all this trial and error, ill be getting the ignotor coil from my buddy around 3ish, ill put it in and post up the results, thanks for all the help dude