stripes777

I finished up my rear disc conversion on my 92 civic today.

when i had the integra trailing arms out on the floor, my friend and i tested the ebrake cable by pulling it and making sure the rotors would get stuck, which it did.

Now after changing new brake hoses/lines, brake pads, and new rotors, and installing it into the car, when i pull the ebrake, i can see the spring thing tighten up all the way, but the rotors spin freely.

keep in my mind i didnt add brake fluid or bleed the fluid system yet.

Is my ebrake not working because changed those new things on the trailing arm and didnt bleed the system yet? In order to put in the new brake pads, i had to twist in the caliper pistons.

well, if anyone knows why my ebrake thing isnt working, please let me know, thank you!

itsmejto

I just went through this a couple days ago,
You MUST have fliud in and make sure your foot brake works correctly before you adjust the e-brake.

I put new calipers on the back and after bleeding etc they worked fine with the foot pedal, but no e-barake.
You have to bleed bleed bleed till they work correctly.
If you let the master run dry you need to bench bleed it by plugging the outlet holes and slowly pump fluid in very short strokes till the push arm gets hard and won't move any more. Then install it and not let much fluid drain out while you hook up the lines to it. Then bleed normally without the e-brake cables connected.
Then start the engine, pump slowly to settle the balance valves and cyl. pistons. Then hook up the cables. Lift the rear wheels from theground. Pull the e-brake one click and then ajust cable nut on back of handle till the pads only just rub a little. You may need to ballance them by tugging very hard on the e-brake handle to center the cable evenly to both sides.


Modified by itsmejto at 8:15 AM 8/17/2008


Modified by itsmejto at 8:16 AM 8/17/2008

itsmejto

Oh, you need to set the piston so it lines up the slots with the lump on the rear pad and also make sure that you didn't screw it too far in. It needs to be out just far enough to make the pads fit over the rotor, don't screw it in all the way unless you have to make room for the pad/rotor clearance.

Don't forget you need a full wheel alignment now.

stripes777

thank you so much for the very detailed response. holy crap though, thats a long process. im going to swap out front teg knuckles out now, so i think ill do all the bleeding and stuff after. many thanks!

stripes777

what happens if i screwed in the piston all the way back? thats what i did i believe. But, i got new rotors and pads, so after doing that and installing everything back on, there's no loose play in the piston - pads -rotor.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itsmejto &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh, you need to set the piston so it lines up the slots with the lump on the rear pad and also make sure that you didn't screw it too far in. It needs to be out just far enough to make the pads fit over the rotor, don't screw it in all the way unless you have to make room for the pad/rotor clearance.

Don't forget you need a full wheel alignment now.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

itsmejto

If there's no play then you did it right, it's just to help compensate for worn pads and rotors.

stripes777

i went to swap out the front knuckles today, started with the driver side. i didnt have the 32mm socket for the axle nut, so i started taking off everything else first, shocks, upper arms, etc. After taking those things off, couldnt get the friggin axle nut off after picking up the socket.

in the middle of that, my axle popped out from the middle? Do i need to buy a new axle now, or can i just still use it after popping it back in like i did?

so now i put everything back to normal, lowered to car to the wheels, and then loosened the axle nut easily.

anyways, 4 hours wasted, lesson learned, follow instructions, haha.

stripes777

anyone know if i need a need axle? read one post above pls, thanks