loweg

Hey guys, I just recently swapped my CX engine to an d16z6 engine, and have ahd no problems with it except for 1.

Here it is...

Sometimes maybe a couple times a day, or even up to 30 or 40 times a day...on the really bad ones. The engine seems laggy. At first I thought that the clutch might be slipping a bit, but the RPMs dont go up when I hit the gas. I can push the gas and I just dont get much. Never really happens in first, mostly 3rd and 4th, but sometimes second. Also, sometimes I will keep the gas down for a bit and not getting any acceleration and then boom, acceleration. I can usualy avoid it if it starts happening by pushing the clutch in, or letting off the gas and giving it gas a little faster.

Wondering if any of you honda junkies had any ideas.

I am no mechanic, but I would venture my best guess to be something to do with the fuel system. My mechanic that put it in told me he used the d15 cx fuel rail (for some reason I cannot remmeber) could it be clogged injectors? or something to do with the fuel rail?

The only other thing I can think of that may help you guys out is that my o2 sensor was just replaced as it kept going off after the swap. As well as my mech loosened my air filter when he did the swap (AEM cold air in the fender) and it wasnt on tightly, the filter that is, for about 3 weeks after the swap. so some unfiltered air was getting in.

Any help you guys can offer would be great, thanks for the long read and g/l with your projects.

loweg

PS I think I am going to take it in for a fuel sytem cleaning.

civicminded92

Plug wires. Check them - resistance reading should be less than 25 ohms.

If that's not the culprit, finish up with a good tune up - plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter.

dip-set

coil/ ignitor?

loweg

plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter. all done when the new engine was put in. as far as I know however...I am not sure on the rotor.

would it just be worth replacing the plug wires...? how much would I spend on these?

So not the fuel injectors then huh?

thanks again to all who read!

civicminded92

Get a multimeter if you don't already have one. You can pick them up at radio hack, autozone, pep boys, etc for like $20. Or borrow one.

Read the resistance through the wires - if it's greater than 25k* ohms, you need new ones.

Did you use the CX fuel injectors? Or just the fuel rail? If he used the CX injectors, there's a good possiblility that they are smaller than the ones on the Z6. If problems persist after checking the wires, I'd start there next.

*Edit - 25k Ohms per Helms. Sorry for the mistake...


Modified by civicminded92 at 8:55 AM 3/23/2005

2lua

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicminded92 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Read the resistance through the wires - if it's greater than 25 ohms, you need new ones.

Did you use the CX fuel injectors? . </TD></TR></TABLE>

did mean 25k ohms?
injectors all the same.

loweg

USed the Z6 injectors...the wires were quite new oem ones off of the mechanics old z6 engiune...I will be chekcing the resistance tonite....

any other ideas as to what is it could be? anything to do with the fuel rail?

I know it is a pain in the *** to understand....

I will update tonite after I check the resistance. But any other ideas would be awesome..,

thanks again.

loweg

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dip-set &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">coil/ ignitor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm having the same sort of problem in my 89 CRX (stock). So far I've replaced: Rotor, Cap, Wires, Plugs, Sea Foamed, Oil, Trans Fluid, Bad Axle, etc... I didn't really think about checking the ignition coil though. I looked it up & it seems pretty easy to do. Just check resistance @ two different points.

I couldn't seem to find any way to check out the "Ignitor". They only briefly mention it in the "Distributor" section of my helms. Does anybody know the procedure to check it out?

I'm also wondering if my crappy "Checker Auto Parts" Alternator is to blame. My Battery Light comes on around 5.5k RPMs . What does that mean?

PS: Sorry to thread jack...

civicminded92

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2lua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

did mean 25k ohms?
injectors all the same.</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, 25 ohms is for the plug wires.

And, there is conflicting information on the injector output values. So until there's 100% certain info out there, keep in mind that they could be different. Glad to see loweg won't have to worry about that though, as he used the Z6 injectors removing all doubt about size.

Oh, and on the ignitor -

checking:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=972241

replacement:

http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howt...r.htm

thisisntjared

how is the idle? im assuming you have a 4 wire o2 sensor now? having the wires run improperly could cause problems.

loweg

Idle is not bad if anything it will idle a teeny bit low, sometimes making the car shake a bit...

when the car was first started up with the new engine, it would idle and drop between600 and 1200 RPMs which is something the old engine would do constantly.

The new one has since stopped this...and yes
I paid for the expensive damn 4 wire o2
sensor! dam expensive parts....

Could it by any chance be the fuel pump? I always thought that when the fuel pump went...it went...not just kinda went. Also is there any difference between the z6 fuel pump and the cx fuel pump?

Uh oh, only have 1 more post left for today. (trial member, lost my old account)

thanks again guys and if anyone has any other ideas please let me know...

loweg

thisisntjared

i have a z6 in my cx and i have the cx pump and filter. also what wiring harness did you use and whats the year of your car?

i had similar problems when i first installed my z6 but after some minor debugging everything went away. what colors are the wires going to your iacv? i think they should be yel/blk and blu/yel


Modified by bleh at 7:47 PM 3/22/2005

loweg

Hey,

REplaced my spark plug wires with low resistance ones, even though the others were ok. Not sure what to do next. Frustrating...it is still doing this, and is now throwing the o2 sensor code, even though it was replaced not but a week ago with a brand new 4 wire oem sensor. I am unsure what the IACV is. is it the idle air control valvle? I dont know what or where this is. What I do know is that I am using a 94 cx wiring harness with Vtec wired up on the side.

The z6 is out of a 92 I believe, if that makes a difference. I honestly dont know what to do next. I am sick of debugging and think that I am just going to have to start replacing ****

Is there anything else you guys can think of...????

Again, thanks for the help guys...I have my buddy pricing out a new fuel rail tomorrow, but I hate to spend that kinda money if it is gonna be a waste!

PS what the he!! was that guy talking about 25 ohms...isnt it 8000 ohms per foot? my longest measured out at 17 I think... then I replaced with new used for a couple of days ones.

like I said any other suggestions guys???

Nate

HalfAnP

Grab a timing gun and check your timing. My engine was doing this not too long ago and I picked up a gun from ebay for 15 bucks and guess what? the timing was way off.

Seriously, check your ignition timing.

As far as the plug wires go, I believe the helms calls for less than 25 thousand ohms per wire. I will double check.

civicminded92

My mistake - here's the info from Helms for a 92-95 Civic.

Goes to show you that you should always double check with a service manual, especially if you get conflicting information.

Sorry for the mistake - hopefully you can carry those wires back to the parts store.

Again, I appologize for any inconvenience.

jeffchaisi

HAPPENED TO MY GSR I REPLACE THE IGNITION COIL AND PROBLEM FIXED.

thisisntjared

alright the wiring for your o2 sensor is almost definitely incorrect. the 4 wires from the o2 sensor all need to go back to your ecu. search for "o2 wire" and there are a bunch of threads that show where each of the 4 wires should go. one of them goes to the the wire from the cx harness, while the others should go to your shock tower, or the ecu. if a mechanic put the engine in your car then he really didnt have that great of an idea of how to do it.

loweg

hey guys.

Civic minded...got the wires for free so not a big deal now worries about the info.

Jeff, I thought the ignition coil was just for start up. the car starts fine. I have actually had a mechanic tell me he does not think that this is it

I am going to get the timing checked and check on the wiring fro the 02 sensor.

my questions are....

Could it be the ignition coil? bleh?
Could it be the fuel rail|?
Could it be a dirty fuel system?

Also, my o2 sensor is still going off once in a blue moon. Goes off usually when I am shifting from 4th to 3rd at medium-high rpms

thanks again for the info guys, any more help would be greatly appreciated

thisisntjared

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by loweg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could it be the ignition coil? bleh?
Could it be the fuel rail|?
Could it be a dirty fuel system?</TD></TR></TABLE>could be a combination of things. did you have a problem with the fuel before? the reason i think its the wiring is cus that caused 100% of the problems with my swap. the fact that your throwing an intermittant o2 makes me thinking wiring. youve got to remember that the o2 sensor has an effect on the ammount of fuel that is used.

loweg

Hey guys, and bleh, just wanted to check something. Today I was driving home from work and the car started to idle super low...like 300-400 Rpms. It felt like it was going to stall (obviously) does this sound like the Idle Air CV??? If you have read about the problems I have been having you might have a better idea. (see above) Just some extra info is that right after that I was driving and it was doing the boggy-no-acceleration thing and then the o2 sensor through a check engine light.

Any ideas guys.

And honestly I might sound like an idiot but where is the IACV what does it do, what does it look like, does anyone have a picture of where it is. How much do they generally run for? Thanks guys.

Loweg

loweg

bump, anyone???

thisisntjared

if your throwing an o2 code then the wiring for the o2 sensor is probably one of the culprets. the iacv is on the back of the throttle body, what color are the wires going into it? if the wrong plug was put in then it will idle all sorts of retarded. could be a problem but i doubt its that one.

this is one of the good threads on how the o2 wiring should be done:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1180819
there are a bunch of other threads out there that require searching.


Modified by bleh at 12:24 AM 3/27/2005

ef_you_again

well buddy seems like you got a couple of problems. first you may want to start off by getting a brand new distributor from distributor king for 150 and sell your old one for prob about 70. so youll spend like 80 total. if that doesnt solve the problem, get a new ecu. if that doesnt solve the problem change your fuel filter. if that doesnt, check for vacuum leaks. then change your fuel pump. then do your idle control valve. if none of that works then i dont know.. im currently having the same problem replaced a bunch of **** I have narrowed it down to fuel or ecu senor problem. my new ecu coming on monday. PM me for progress

thisisntjared

i think your order is whack... you do the cheap, free fixes first. and if an o2 code is thrown then there is a problem with the o2 sensor. that should be the primary concern since it is distinct symptom.