zoopsta

Hey guys
im new, but im from aus, so i occasionally go to ozhonda.com

anyway,

I ran the diagnostic test on my EG civic (94) but the check engine light STAYS ON rather than blinking or anything - its just on constant.

Also its on constant while im driving (hence the reason i diagnosed it in the first place)

is my ecu stuffed?

thanks guys

HondaFanatic708

Ok so you jumped the service check connector correct? And turned the key to the on position without starting the car correct?

e jay one

did you put the jumper wire in the right plug? try reseting the ecu then check the code maybe?

HondaFanatic708

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e jay one &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you put the jumper wire in the right plug? try reseting the ecu then check the code maybe?</TD></TR></TABLE>If he started the car the CEL would stay on, or if there was no DTC it would stay lit.

zoopsta

i didnt start my car, i left it in the ON pos like you're supposed to

Like i said: the light is on constant while iam driving and when im checking for codes

what could be wrong?

zoopsta

and yes i chose the correct plug and jumped it correctly

(if the plug is not jumped - check engine light turns off when keys in on pos, because its supposed to, like all the other lights (besides handbrake and seatbelt duh) and if plug is jumped - light stays on the whole time)

SOHC4life 96

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zoopsta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">(if the plug is not jumped - check engine light turns off when keys in on pos, because its supposed to, like all the other lights (besides handbrake and seatbelt duh) and if plug is jumped - light stays on the whole time)</TD></TR></TABLE>

uhhhhhhhhhhhhhh..............no. If there is a code and the ECU isn't being jumped it will turn off then turn right back on and stay on.

Are you sure you pushed the paperclip in far enough?

HondaFanatic708

reset the ECU and if the light doesn't come on while driving your good, it wasn't only an intermittant failure.

zoopsta

So SOHC4life 96: are you saying that WITHOUT jumping the plugs and with the keys in the ON position, the engline light should come back on again?!?! All the relevant lights come on when the keys are in the ON position but they turn off after a couple of seconds, is the engine light supposed to as well or not? (if theres a fault)

HondaFanatic708, already resetted the ecu and checked and still the same problem. The CEL is always on while driving.

SOHC4life 96

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zoopsta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So SOHC4life 96: are you saying that WITHOUT jumping the plugs and with the keys in the ON position, the engline light should come back on again?!?! All the relevant lights come on when the keys are in the ON position but they turn off after a couple of seconds, is the engine light supposed to as well or not? (if theres a fault)</TD></TR></TABLE>

It did on my car when it was throwing a code.

Luserkid

Make sure that your putting the clip in all the way in the jumper. Try swapping out ecu's because it could mean you have a faulty ecu.

WildMan541

If it's a hard code (continuing failure) the check engine light will stay on, even after you turn the car off and back on. It will stay on until it's fixed, key cycles delete it, or the battery is disconnected (but if it's continuing it will just reset itself).
If it's a soft code (temporary failure) the check engine light will go off after the car is turned off and back on. Whenever I pull codes I check them with the engine running (when the check engine light is on of course). Just make sure you're jumping the right connector and have your jumper completely touching both leads.

zoopsta

Well According to WildMan541, its throwing a hard code.
About 1 year ago or so, it was a soft code but after sometime the light just stayed on.

Also about 1 year ago, i did an ECU check and it threw a code 8 (TDC) but i got it checked out by a honda mechanic and he said it was ok to keep driving but i might have needed a new dizzy, but i continued driving.

And yes, im jumping the correct connector with the jumper touching both leads.

What should i do? I dont have another ecu i can swap it with.

Should i just take it to a mechanic?

zoopsta

bump

HondaFanatic708

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zoopsta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well According to WildMan541, its throwing a hard code.
About 1 year ago or so, it was a soft code but after sometime the light just stayed on.

Also about 1 year ago, i did an ECU check and it threw a code 8 (TDC) but i got it checked out by a honda mechanic and he said it was ok to keep driving but i might have needed a new dizzy, but i continued driving.

And yes, im jumping the correct connector with the jumper touching both leads.

What should i do? I dont have another ecu i can swap it with.

Should i just take it to a mechanic?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

If the CEL just stays on when you have the service check connector jumped I would also swap the ECU. Go to one of the U-pull it places and get an ECU. **** man stuff it down your pants and take off like a molding or something. That way if the new ECU doesn't solve the problem, you didn't waste any money on it... Hmm CEL 8 a while ago and no CEL (readable at least) right now. This is what the HFSM says about the CEL 8:




I would run through this flow chart just to see where it leads you. Let us know where you make it to. Need any help let us know... BTW sorry about the large pics. I just wanted to make sure it is readable.. Happy tuning!! EDIT: I think I fixed the pics now...


Modified by HondaFanatic708 at 9:30 AM 5/1/2005


Modified by HondaFanatic708 at 9:30 AM 5/1/2005