Shane Chrome

i have 97 civic lx sedan, 5speed. blew the motor and replaced the motor with one from a reliable junkyard (LKQ). the motor i bought came from an automatic but i used my original tranny and original harness, ecu etc. It turns over nice, i'm getting fuel to the plugs, and the plugs have spark. i used my brand new dizzy that ran with the old motor for a few weeks, til the crank bearings decided to go. haha. Everything seems to be plugged in completely, and hoses are hooked up correctly and vacuum lines as well. it turns over and over and over but wont fire. Am i missing something??? hopefully something obvious... heeeellllp!!!!

Former User

What engine?

CEL codes?

Plug wires installed in correct firing order?

Mechanical timing correct?

Good compression?

Shane Chrome

its all stock. d16y7. got it to run..!!! distributor wasnt aligned right. but now it idles like ****....could it still be timing???????

Former User

Post the CEL codes.

Shane Chrome

about to get the scanner out now!! i'll let ya know, thanks



BRAAAAAAAP

Former User

Or jump the service connector.

Shane Chrome

so turns out there is no codes, no check engine light no oil light nothing. <--and they do work haha. i swapped in my old throttle body and now it runs better than ever. I think the one i got with the new motor was just dirty, and the spring return for the throttle cable was a little weak. all good now. BUT i removed the power steering pump and i was wondering what is the proper way to remove all that?? for now i just have the line plugged that went to and from the pump itself. Also the AC compressor i removed, but do i remove every piece, including lines and all????? suggestions would be great. thanks in advance


BRAAAAAP ON

chrysler kid

You should reconnect those items to keep a strong resale value.

Shane Chrome

yea i thought about that. but ac pulley bearing were going, and power steering needed some work. so for now they are out. plus car is going to have the **** drove out of it, and abused for the next three years at least

Shane Chrome

stock d16y5 up here (wisconsin) wont be selling for 3k. haha must have been very clean. any honda up here from 05 and prior has rust! LOTS of rust.

mk378

The air conditioning system was a "bolt on" option done at the dealer, so it basically just unbolts. To completely remove the A/C you would need to install a bypass duct in place of the evaporator box. Most people would leave the evaporator in place but not connected under the hood. Plug up the refrigerant lines to keep dirt out in case you or someone else wants to re-commission the system later.

chrysler kid

On an lx sedan ac was standard, DX model was optional

I price my cars according to the market. For $3k you can't get any sort of decent car, where as I sell my cars with fully documented maintenance and pronounced vehicle history as I know it.

So you could spend $3k on a clapped out corolla or jeep, or spend 3k on a perfect example of one the most reliable and semi sporty cars ever made and still not look like your driving a beater. That being said the d16y5 prices I was selling then for was when gas was $3.50 a gallon and you were seeing low mileage 99 geo metros going for $6k on ebay. I was also selling them to ecomodders, one guy was a journalist who drove over 60 miles to buy the car because he didn't have enough room in his CRX hf to fit a passenger and his equipment

If your car is rusted out and in terrible condition then do as you like, just pointing out that it's probably a better idea to leave everything on there and just disconnect the belts. Salvage yard will atleast pay you more for it in 3 years