Help: Bolt Broken in Control Arm while doing suspension
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What you need to do is use a grinder or Dremel tool with a cutting wheel, hack off the welded-on bolt on the opposite side and you can then punch out the remains after that.
To finish it, your going to need to goto honda, get the replacement bolt for it, and then ask to get a matching nut to use, which you then thread thru the hole normally, but use the nut on the other end. Since it wont be welded on, id recomend using thread locker to secure it safely. Trust me on this, this happend to me many times.
To finish it, your going to need to goto honda, get the replacement bolt for it, and then ask to get a matching nut to use, which you then thread thru the hole normally, but use the nut on the other end. Since it wont be welded on, id recomend using thread locker to secure it safely. Trust me on this, this happend to me many times.
#3
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Re: (97Ej6mike)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 97Ej6mike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What you need to do is use a grinder or Dremel tool with a cutting wheel, hack off the welded-on bolt on the opposite side and you can then punch out the remains after that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What I'm wondering is, if you're attempting to punch the remnants of the bolt through, why does it matter that you're cutting the other exposed end off? In all seriousness, though, you're not going to be able to punch it out. It's seized inside the bushing, and the bushing will absorb the impact of you punching it.
OP: I'd say your best bet is to drill it out if you want to reuse that lower control arm. I'm assuming that you're replacing it or else it was probably a mistake to attempt to remove that bolt. If you were simply replacing the strut, you were lucky that the bolt on the stock strut didn't snap. I guess you live and learn.... those damn bolts under there are notorious for seizing and snapping off. Good luck.
What I'm wondering is, if you're attempting to punch the remnants of the bolt through, why does it matter that you're cutting the other exposed end off? In all seriousness, though, you're not going to be able to punch it out. It's seized inside the bushing, and the bushing will absorb the impact of you punching it.
OP: I'd say your best bet is to drill it out if you want to reuse that lower control arm. I'm assuming that you're replacing it or else it was probably a mistake to attempt to remove that bolt. If you were simply replacing the strut, you were lucky that the bolt on the stock strut didn't snap. I guess you live and learn.... those damn bolts under there are notorious for seizing and snapping off. Good luck.
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Re: (97Ej6mike)
97Ej6mike> Thats exactly what I was attempting.
I could not able to reach that bolt I was able to grind the bottom part. Is there only 1 weld point on that bolt? on the bottom? if so I dont know how its still holding i'll try grinding some more.
Do you think I can salvage the control arm? to reuse the bushing ? I dont know how i am going to remove the bolt from the bushing..
I have two replacement bolts from honda (green looking screw)
Whats a thread locker? You mean a locknut washer?
Blk00EJ8>I don't think you can drill threw that bolt... Its ment to hold up the car. But I'll keep that as Plan B.
I could not able to reach that bolt I was able to grind the bottom part. Is there only 1 weld point on that bolt? on the bottom? if so I dont know how its still holding i'll try grinding some more.
Do you think I can salvage the control arm? to reuse the bushing ? I dont know how i am going to remove the bolt from the bushing..
I have two replacement bolts from honda (green looking screw)
Whats a thread locker? You mean a locknut washer?
Blk00EJ8>I don't think you can drill threw that bolt... Its ment to hold up the car. But I'll keep that as Plan B.
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Mikes got the right idea. You gotta grind or cut or whatever the back part off. Then spray some WD40 on the bolt part stuck in the bushing and put it in a vice. Spray that sucker down real good. Then use a punch and a mallet to get it out. You could try using a torch, but be careful with that rubber. You might melt it.
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Re: (Ramma)
I was able to shave off the nut and i took off the control arm.
But the friken bolt wont come out !!!
i tried hammer the **** out of it it refuses to move...
AND nobody is open to buy a control arm from or bushing... and monday its labor day everything is closed....fkkkkkkk
But the friken bolt wont come out !!!
i tried hammer the **** out of it it refuses to move...
AND nobody is open to buy a control arm from or bushing... and monday its labor day everything is closed....fkkkkkkk
#7
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Re: (tilhasbb)
Well you may have realized by now that Monday wasn't Labor Day... this coming Monday is Memorial Day.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tilhasbb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was able to shave off the nut and i took off the control arm.
But the friken bolt wont come out !!!
i tried hammer the **** out of it it refuses to move...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Told you so. Sure it holds the car up, but it's being "held up" by forces that act in contradicting directions in a very short distance from one another. It's still metal and drilling it is applying a different force in a different way.
Good drill + new sharp drill bit + patience = eventual success. Been there, done it. Or get the bushing pressed out and a new one pressed in. It'll likely be well worth the cost rather than the headache.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tilhasbb »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was able to shave off the nut and i took off the control arm.
But the friken bolt wont come out !!!
i tried hammer the **** out of it it refuses to move...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Told you so. Sure it holds the car up, but it's being "held up" by forces that act in contradicting directions in a very short distance from one another. It's still metal and drilling it is applying a different force in a different way.
Good drill + new sharp drill bit + patience = eventual success. Been there, done it. Or get the bushing pressed out and a new one pressed in. It'll likely be well worth the cost rather than the headache.
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Re: (Blk00EJ8)
Umm no. I had this exact problem.. Look under the bolt, and cut it in two places, right after (where) the head broke and 1 in. before it threads thru the nut. Then get PB blaster or KROIL and spray it well.. Tap with a hammer. Repeat at least 5 times, waiting a few mins in between. Then get some good vise grips and clamp the shyt outta the bolt and pull it out that way. And by pulling it out, I don't mean literally, pull on the bolt and it will come out. Turn it counter-clockwise (the bolt) to make it come out.. While you're doing this, you may have to switch sides and try from where the welded-on nut it and go counter-clockwise, clockwise (ie back and forth to loosen it up). Keep spraying the penetrating liquid and you'll get it.
I did, after 2 hours. Ended up cutting off the lower control arm so I could maneuver my way and get the grinder in to cut the bolt in pieces.
I did, after 2 hours. Ended up cutting off the lower control arm so I could maneuver my way and get the grinder in to cut the bolt in pieces.
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Re: (ke98248)
take the chance to get rear disc conversion and new lca's, would probably end up cheaper and faster than getting this fixed considering you're gonna need new lca's anyways, plus you're gonna have to do labor
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Re: (NOT_USDM)
When this happened to me I had to press out the old bushing because the bolt acutally siezed inside the metal part and then I used new hardware.
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Re: (PhatAcuraIntegra)
Tried hammering
Drilling
Slapping it, kicking it
Nothing !
thing is stuck in there like a fat women and her chicken.
I ended up cutting the bolt on the other side off. Got a control arm from the scrap then put a new honda bolt and a nut on the other end.
Drilling
Slapping it, kicking it
Nothing !
thing is stuck in there like a fat women and her chicken.
I ended up cutting the bolt on the other side off. Got a control arm from the scrap then put a new honda bolt and a nut on the other end.
#12
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Re: (tilhasbb)
My friend just did one and the upper LCA bolt was squeaking like hell when we were trying to get it out. We still havent worked on it because hes scared its going to snap like the strut bolt. Is the squeaking normal?
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Re: (my name is nick)
The rubber is probably being smashed up against the metal from old age, no it's not. Spray a bit of wd-40 to stop the squeaking, if you can get it into the bushings
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Re: (ke98248)
Most important thing on bolts like that is if they start to get tight, reverse the ratchet and tighten them back a little and then loosen again, kinda like using a tap. When you jam all that rust in the threads is usually when you snap bolts. Heat can also help
#15
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Re: (PhatAcuraIntegra)
i think this has happend to everyone. haha. from the readin it sounds like u bought used and should be legit now but if not many ways have discussed and it takes patience. well if u have broke one end and cut the other and dont care about the bushing one time we just cut thru it and sprayed it to help pull it out.
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I had to drill mine out. I think its a pretty common thing for them to rust. I coated the bolt with anti-seize this time. That way it won't seize to the bushing again... I hope. And whats with Honda charging $11 a bolt? wtf??
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Re: (deadline)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by deadline »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i replaced the whole trailing arms cuz i got it for cheap...search around....</TD></TR></TABLE>
this guy tell u what ur gonna do , bc there is no force in hell that will get that bolt out of the bushing buy new lca's
this guy tell u what ur gonna do , bc there is no force in hell that will get that bolt out of the bushing buy new lca's
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