HELP b16a FROM HELL
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HELP b16a FROM HELL
Ok guys I will try to explian this as best as possible... I have a 94 EG hatch and I just finished putting in a first gen b16a. I am having serious problems with it, i can barley get to start, wont hold an idle for ****, is not drivable. at first i thought it was the timing belt because its slipping a tooth and ******* up the timing, so i changed the timing belt, and it didnt fix the problem same issues. Then i saw it was still slipping, so i changed the tensionr spring and STILL nothing. Ok so i moved on to spark plugs, and changed them, and used a different set of b16 wires. Still nothing. NOw I moved on to the dizzy and it acts like its not getting spark like the ICM is fucked didnt have time to test today, will no tomarro, In addition the timing belt is still actin funny, going tight sometimes and loose others.
HaS anyone had this problem b4, and ideas would be great
THanks.
HaS anyone had this problem b4, and ideas would be great
THanks.
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well im not sure about the cam gears, i have brand new AEM ones on the way, and as far as the harness goes its fine, b/c the motor was in my buddys 92 EG and ran perfectly, thats y i dont understand this.....?
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#9
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Re: (ej0513)
you're using obd1 ecu, obd1 (grey plug) distributor, and obd1 (grey plug) injectors, right?
converting a B16A first gen block to obd-1 is no fun, but it can be done and made reliable, just have to make sure you get everything.
there are more mods needed than just what's listed above, but those are the main ones that would affect starting/idling.
converting a B16A first gen block to obd-1 is no fun, but it can be done and made reliable, just have to make sure you get everything.
there are more mods needed than just what's listed above, but those are the main ones that would affect starting/idling.
#10
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Re: (nuc79)
whats up
i just had simliar problems with my b16a obd1...if your check engine light is on..go by the jumper connecter (blue connecter with two holes) run a paper clip between the two connecter...tuen your key..but dont turn the key on..long flash means 10...short falsh means 1..like 2 long a 2 short would be 22...if you cel isnt on..mine was a MAP sensor and a o2 sensor
i just had simliar problems with my b16a obd1...if your check engine light is on..go by the jumper connecter (blue connecter with two holes) run a paper clip between the two connecter...tuen your key..but dont turn the key on..long flash means 10...short falsh means 1..like 2 long a 2 short would be 22...if you cel isnt on..mine was a MAP sensor and a o2 sensor
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yes i know all have been checked, im getting code 6 which is a water temp sensor, whihc i know isnt helping, i need to eliminate some more variables....should have more info by end of week. and yes this swap has been converted to obd1....it was in my friends 92 cx and ran perfectly.
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Re: (Bseriescivic5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bseriescivic5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In addition the timing belt is still actin funny, going tight sometimes and loose others. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It runs like that cuz your timing is poopy. Whatever is causing your timing belt to kick out of place isn't good. Either
a.) your water pump is messed up and the drive gear bearing is loose or sloppy
b.) your tensioner is messed up
c.) you didn't route the timing belt correctly
d.) your cam gears are loose/worn
e.) something is catastrophically wrong with the engine
It runs like that cuz your timing is poopy. Whatever is causing your timing belt to kick out of place isn't good. Either
a.) your water pump is messed up and the drive gear bearing is loose or sloppy
b.) your tensioner is messed up
c.) you didn't route the timing belt correctly
d.) your cam gears are loose/worn
e.) something is catastrophically wrong with the engine
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Re: (project_mercy)
OK greg thanks for getting the info out there
First off like he said motor ran fine
was in accident, and did brake stuff, like TB misc sensors and trans
motor turns over fine by hand, w/compression, take out plugs and turns over fine no compression, so INTERNALLY motor is sound
as far as cam gears i dont think there bent but who knows
as far as the water pump, that could be it
the funny part about this whole thing is
when my girl wrecked the car (www.hondatwincam.com/dan/ouch)
it was fine
pulled it
put into his car, and we realized the Tensioner one LOSE
as if it broke the bolt or something but NOThING is wrong with that, changed them to my spares, spring belt all new, and no avail
thanks for the info
dan
First off like he said motor ran fine
was in accident, and did brake stuff, like TB misc sensors and trans
motor turns over fine by hand, w/compression, take out plugs and turns over fine no compression, so INTERNALLY motor is sound
as far as cam gears i dont think there bent but who knows
as far as the water pump, that could be it
the funny part about this whole thing is
when my girl wrecked the car (www.hondatwincam.com/dan/ouch)
it was fine
pulled it
put into his car, and we realized the Tensioner one LOSE
as if it broke the bolt or something but NOThING is wrong with that, changed them to my spares, spring belt all new, and no avail
thanks for the info
dan
#19
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Re: (Bseriescivic5)
What were the compression numbers if the compression is good? Sounds like the belt slip caused a valve or two to bend and account for the rough engine and hard to start.
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i have no idea what the numbers were.....unlikely that the vavles are bent.......b/c i can advance the timing to hold a steady idle, but no trottle response.....i think it might be the ICM in the dizzy, i think we fryed it.......but just to be sure ill find out the compression #'s
#21
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Re: (Bseriescivic5)
We had that same problem with a EF w/b16 swap. Turned out being the cly sensor wires were reversed or in your case could be the cly sensor being bad which is built into the distributor base. If you have a spare or a friends distributor to try that could help.
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Re: HELP b16a FROM HELL (Bseriescivic5)
found the problems
FIRST
dizzy was 180 out inside were the rotor attaches to cam
second
ecu died, for whatever reason (lucky i had a spare)
Third
IM has a ****** hole in the back of it from the accident like the size of a pencil eraser guess we missed that after the accident, lookin at all the damaged parts to fix, o well
car runs good right now for the fact that Timing wasnt set yet (water temp sensor is not hooked up) and the whole in the IM
we will fix this week
thakns for everyones' input
dan
FIRST
dizzy was 180 out inside were the rotor attaches to cam
second
ecu died, for whatever reason (lucky i had a spare)
Third
IM has a ****** hole in the back of it from the accident like the size of a pencil eraser guess we missed that after the accident, lookin at all the damaged parts to fix, o well
car runs good right now for the fact that Timing wasnt set yet (water temp sensor is not hooked up) and the whole in the IM
we will fix this week
thakns for everyones' input
dan
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yeah thanks alot guys, will let you know how everything works out....looks like we are going to JB weld the IM for now, unless anyone here has a spare first gen IM.
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ok, car actually runs now, and is driveable, however its slow as **** still obviously b.c the timing is like 20 deg. retarded, prob is im getting code 6 (water temp sens.) and i cant figure out whats wrong with it, the sensor is hooked up and doesnt appear dmg. any input?