bjscivic

Don't mind the rusted crap under my ride.

Brakes are being converted to the disc kind. A brand new Koni/GC setup is going in & new lcas as well as all six new oem lca bolts will be going in.


My question is for the people with experience as to how to get the bolt out on my snapped one. Just the head snapped off. I believe it's froze into the bushing. There is a nut on the other side of this (on the trailing arm) where whats left goes through and that's the only place it's connected to right now.

Being that this nut is welded to the trailing arm I don't want to screw it up cutting it off....unless I know there is away to work around it. I guess what I'm asking is how would I go about pulling the old lcas out? As stated....I have new bolts, new oem lcas and stuff.

BLUE EH3

bump, same thing happened to me

EG2Driver

i broke that one too, but only because i was tightening it rather than undoing it...im no help, so i'll just bump you up

pdiggitydogg

Just cut the nut off
If you really care about a nut being welded to the hub (and you shouldnt) just tack another one on...

If you want to waste all that time drilling the bolt out, that is an option, but it will take forever and a day.

Eran

iTrader: (1)

Use a cutting wheel and cut between the bushing and the trailing arm. Then tap the stud out of the trailing arm.

bjscivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pdiggitydogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just cut the nut off
If you really care about a nut being welded to the hub (and you shouldnt) just tack another one on...

If you want to waste all that time drilling the bolt out, that is an option, but it will take forever and a day.</TD></TR></TABLE>
So I could just cut the nut off. From there I'd be able to just pull the whole lca out. (The other two bolts I'm not worried about. They come out.) Then I can just go to the hardware store and pick up an M10 nut and that will hold it all just fine without being welded?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Use a cutting wheel and cut between the bushing and the trailing arm. Then tap the stud out of the trailing arm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The bolt is still threaded into that nut on the trailing arm. Even if it's only the tip of the bolt, wouldn't I still have to find a way to unscrew it instead of tapping it?

Eran

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bjscivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So I could just cut the nut off. From there I'd be able to just pull the whole lca out. (The other two bolts I'm not worried about. They come out.) Then I can just go to the hardware store and pick up an M10 nut and that will hold it all just fine without being welded?


The bolt is still threaded into that nut on the trailing arm. Even if it's only the tip of the bolt, wouldn't I still have to find a way to unscrew it instead of tapping it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, I should have been more clear. Use a bolt extraction kit.

bjscivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Eran &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Sorry, I should have been more clear. Use a bolt extraction kit. </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's what I assumed. I just wanted to clarify as I have absolutely no experience in this.

Any other different ideas people?

Blk00EJ8

A bolt extraction kit will NOT work on these bolts... I had 3 bolts frozen and break off when swapping to rear discs. If you get the ones that have the cutting tip, they're useful for drilling the bolt out, but once its frozen to the inside of the bushing, it takes a lot of heat or a lot of impact to get it out. And I mean a lot.

The only way I managed to get them out was to cut. Since you said you're replacing the LCA's and drums anyway, the FASTEST way to get that **** out is to cut through the arms. A 4.5" grinder with cutoff wheel works wonders.. like hot butter. It may sound a bit extreme, but it works.

Oh, and be very careful with the bolts on the inside of those LCA's towards the center of the chassis. Those are SOB's (x1000) to remove once they break off because you can't cut through the metal there... it's part of the chassis.

instrument

yeah if you're doing the swap you will be replacing all of that stuff anyway....

just cut em off.

may as well get some nice lca's while you're doing it...... those black blox ones look nice.

pdiggitydogg

It really makes no difference if the nut is welded to the knuckle or not - its just more convenient during assembly.

If you do cut it off (I sure as hell would) make sure you get one that is class 10.9 and flanged.
Like I said, if you really, really, really want it welded (for no real reason) just install the nut/bolt and tack weld it back on)

hondaman86

yeah I don't see why you wouldn't just cut the nut off, you did say you will be replacing the lca's anyway so it really doesn't matter if you mess up your old ones.

PatrickGSR94

iTrader: (1)

If you're replacing the shocks AND the LCA's anyway, why can't you just drop the whole shock and LCA out together? Why even bother trying to get them apart?

MitsukillinS2K

you can crack the nut off cause its only tac welded in place cause i had to do that this weekend on my hatch.

electron_si

i cut mine off with a freakin small hacksaw blade when the bolt broke there. it took almost 45 minutes but i just replaced it with a grade 8 bolt washer and locknut. its really not that hard, just need patience

mynamestaken

broke that same bolt on saturday. drove myself nuts for two days trying to drill it out, tap it out, twist it, everything. ended up cutting off the threaded end with a dremel tool and smoothing down the remains. lca slid out and I just used a separate nut.

The Lobster

i broke coupel bolts down there...botl extractor will not work..

i just bought a new aftermarket LCA for 100 shipped and that solved the problem